[03reptile]

At what point will there be any actual documentation stating that they can be used in the Predator engines? It's this note that worries me and I know how lawyers can be when it comes to warranty claim disputes. Does anyone know if there is anything form Ford stating that the 2087A is a suitable and approved replacement?
View attachment 351696

I've spoken with my Ford Dealership's parts department in reference to your concern. Ford sends out an internal change in their parts catalog when a part is changed, deleted, or added. The FL2087A has superseded the FL2087. This was done about a month or more, ago. They no longer carry the FL2087. Ford does not issue a TSB (technical service bulletin) or any other notification to owners reference this in-house change. Once the FL2087A is in the Ford parts computer system, it becomes the recommended part. So, if you use your past FL2087 filters in the future you will be fine, as there is no "recall" for the FL2087 and it still can be used and accepted by Ford warranty department. If you use the new FL2087A you will also be covered by Ford as it's now in the parts system. There's no specific documentation when Ford makes the change in their parts computer system unless there's a recall for a specific part. Hope that assuages your concerns.

 

[Quik5oh]

Would you gents have any concerns using either of these two FL 2087s? I know they are scarce so I don't want to return them if there isn't a cause for concern.

The one on the right has an overflow of "glue" - which I haven't seen before.

The one of the left has that funky gap due to the metal band that runs from top to bottom.

I'm thinking the one on the left is ok to run, but the one with the glue overflow is likely a return. Thoughts?

 

[03reptile]

Would you gents have any concerns using either of these two FL 2087s? I know they are scarce so I don't want to return them if there isn't a cause for concern.

The one on the right has an overflow of "glue" - which I haven't seen before.

The one of the left has that funky gap due to the metal band that runs from top to bottom.

I'm thinking the one on the left is ok to run, but the one with the glue overflow is likely a return. Thoughts?

View attachment 351718

I've got ten of the FL2087 filters. I checked all of them, just now, and two filters show some yellow glue around the base like yours, just not as much. I think yours, with the extra glue, is just fine and could be used without any concern. Probably just a small manufacturer production error and I'd use it without any concern in my precious GT350!

 

[Quik5oh]

I've got ten of the FL2087 filters. I checked all of them, just now, and two filters show some yellow glue around the base like yours, just not as much. I think yours, with the extra glue, is just fine and could be used without any concern. Probably just a small manufacturer production error and I'd use it without any concern in my precious GT350!

Thanks for the feedback, Mike!

Would you have any concerns using the filter on the left with the big gap between the metal band and the next pleat?

 

[AZ21GT500]

Would you gents have any concerns using either of these two FL 2087s? I know they are scarce so I don't want to return them if there isn't a cause for concern.

The one on the right has an overflow of "glue" - which I haven't seen before.

The one of the left has that funky gap due to the metal band that runs from top to bottom.

I'm thinking the one on the left is ok to run, but the one with the glue overflow is likely a return. Thoughts?

View attachment 351718

I wouldn’t be concerned with either of them unless you see a potential of the gap being a failure point?

 

[CodeOrange]

Would you gents have any concerns using either of these two FL 2087s? I know they are scarce so I don't want to return them if there isn't a cause for concern.

The one on the right has an overflow of "glue" - which I haven't seen before.

The one of the left has that funky gap due to the metal band that runs from top to bottom.

I'm thinking the one on the left is ok to run, but the one with the glue overflow is likely a return. Thoughts?

View attachment 351718

As long as there are no holes, rips, tears or the pleats aren't too flattened out I'd use it.

 

[OX1]

Would you gents have any concerns using either of these two FL 2087s? I know they are scarce so I don't want to return them if there isn't a cause for concern.

The one on the right has an overflow of "glue" - which I haven't seen before.

The one of the left has that funky gap due to the metal band that runs from top to bottom.

I'm thinking the one on the left is ok to run, but the one with the glue overflow is likely a return. Thoughts?

View attachment 351718

The one's I just got have that dark stain like yours. Not sure what's up with that. None of the others I had before, had that.

I think I'd run either of those. The filter area reduction, if any, would be really minimal.

And I guess I kept ordering and ordering. I just added the last one's to my "filter shelf" and I actually have 16 ...........

 

[03reptile]

Thanks for the feedback, Mike!

Would you have any concerns using the filter on the left with the big gap between the metal band and the next pleat?

Nope, not at all. The rest of my filters displayed no sign of glue at the base. Don't overthink your filters! LOL! 😂

 

[BadCon]

Would you gents have any concerns using either of these two FL 2087s? I know they are scarce so I don't want to return them if there isn't a cause for concern.

The one on the right has an overflow of "glue" - which I haven't seen before.

The one of the left has that funky gap due to the metal band that runs from top to bottom.

I'm thinking the one on the left is ok to run, but the one with the glue overflow is likely a return. Thoughts?

View attachment 351718

Both of those filters are dangerous and will ruin your engine. In fact, they are so dangerous you should ship them to me for proper disposal, I'll even cover shipping costs. It's just the right thing to do, you can thank me later.














LOL, kidding. Those filters are fine, use with confidence.

 

[GT500 The Mistress]

Okay, I just read 20 pages of this thread that I somehow missed since July

Well I have tried Walmart and Rockauto and NO Luck on finding the original FL2087 Filters, Its expensive when I ordered my first filter through Ford Subic about $120.00 back then so I ordered some from Rock Auto over a year and half ago, now if I knew this craziness was going to happen I would have ordered more then a few, but if I ordered to many Customs would screw me.


So If anyone wants to sell me a few of your hoard stock or you know where I can still get the original versions without the possibility of being shipped a FL2087-A.

I am will to pay more then what you paid, I don't have many options being over here.

PM me if your willing, I don't blame you if you don't as this seems to be a wacked out situation. UGH

 

[OF5.0]

Okay, I just read 20 pages of this thread that I somehow missed since July

Well I have tried Walmart and Rockauto and NO Luck on finding the original FL2087 Filters, Its expensive when I ordered my first filter through Ford Subic about $120.00 back then so I ordered some from Rock Auto over a year and half ago, now if I knew this craziness was going to happen I would have ordered more then a few, but if I ordered to many Customs would screw me.


So If anyone wants to sell me a few of your hoard stock or you know where I can still get the original versions without the possibility of being shipped a FL2087-A.

I am will to pay more then what you paid, I don't have many options being over here.

PM me if your willing, I don't blame you if you don't as this seems to be a wacked out situation. UGH

There is no need to find the FL-2087 filters. The FL-2087-A filters are the new part. There have been no properly documented failures of the FL-2087-A filters. I am running a FL-2087-A as we speak. No issues whatsoever.

 

[Catmonkey]

The predator engine does have an oil pressure bypass, which is set fairly high, but does not an have an oil filter bypass, and the worst thing you can do is immediately start subjecting the car to high rpm when it's stone cold, which is compounded exponentially in near or sub freezing temperatures. The winter rating (i.e. "5W") is the ability for the oil to flow when it's cold which is not even close to near freezing. You'd have to look at the data sheet for your oil, but most winter ratings are made at or about 40° celsius, which is 100° fahrenheit. That only means the oil, through additives should flow the equivalent of a single grade oil at that temperature. It stands to reason that your engine oil may never reach 100° celsius where the upper viscosity range is taken, 50 wt in the case of the GT500, in cold weather driving. So what is your viscosity on a cold start at or below freezing temperatures? I can't answer that, but it will be thick, just not as thick as a single grade. Really thick oil can make for a poor lubricant. Just looking up the specs on Mobil 1's 5w-50, I see a viscosity of 11.8 mm^2/s at 40° C and 111.8 mm^2/s at 100° C.

While the predator engine has dual coolant mechanisms, it warms up pretty fast. But, that is engine coolant. The 11.5 quarts of oil in the pan are going to take a while longer to even reach the "W" temperature threshold. Not to mention the oiling system has an external cooler. Whether it has a thermostatic bypass, I'm not sure. However, we do have an oil temperature gauge just to the right of the oil pressure gauge. Unless you're seeing oil temperatures exceeding 100°, take it easy a little while longer until it rises to that level. Ford even has hash marks in the lower end of the gauge scale as a warning. I wouldn't go "full send" unless I'm seeing oil temperatures north of that and closer to 150°, especially in modified cars. If an oil filter is going to fail as a result of oil pressure, the highest probability will be the result of cold temperatures and realize oil pressure has a direct coorelation to engine rpm. I suspect that the FL2062, the GT350 filter, that's being circulated to fuel this fire, probably failed when Ford was doing its endurance testing on a the predator engine in freezing temperatures and developed the FL2087. Whether Ford did any endurance testing with the FL2087A is anybody's guess.

Just food for thought.

 

[AZ21GT500]

The predator engine does have an oil pressure bypass, which is set fairly high, but does not an have an oil filter bypass, and the worst thing you can do is immediately start subjecting the car to high rpm when it's stone cold, which is compounded exponentially in near or sub freezing temperatures. The winter rating (i.e. "5W") is the ability for the oil to flow when it's cold which is not even close to near freezing. You'd have to look at the data sheet for your oil, but most winter ratings are made at or about 40° celsius, which is 100° fahrenheit. That only means the oil, through additives should flow the equivalent of a single grade oil at that temperature. It stands to reason that your engine oil may never reach 100° celsius where the upper viscosity range is taken, 50 wt in the case of the GT500, in cold weather driving. So what is your viscosity on a cold start at or below freezing temperatures? I can't answer that, but it will be thick, just not as thick as a single grade. Really thick oil can make for a poor lubricant. Just looking up the specs on Mobil 1's 5w-50, I see a viscosity of 11.8 mm2/s at 40° C and 111.8 mm2/s at 100° C.

While the predator engine has dual coolant mechanisms, it warms up pretty fast. But, that is engine coolant. The 11.5 quarts of oil in the pan are going to take a while longer to even reach the "W" temperature threshold. Not to mention the oiling system has an external cooler. Whether it has a thermostatic bypass, I'm not sure. However, we do have an oil temperature gauge just to the right of the oil pressure gauge. Unless you're seeing oil temperatures exceeding 100°, take it easy a little while longer until it rises to that level. Ford even has hash marks in the lower end of the gauge scale as a warning. I wouldn't go "full send" unless I'm seeing oil temperatures north of that and closer to 150°, especially in modified cars. If an oil filter is going to fail as a result of oil pressure, the highest probability will be the result of cold temperatures and realize oil pressure has a direct coorelation to engine rpm. I suspect that the FL2062, the GT350 filter, that's being circulated to fuel this fire, probably failed when Ford was doing its endurance testing on a the predator engine in freezing temperatures and developed the FL2087. Whether Ford did any endurance testing with the FL2087A is anybody's guess.

Just food for thought.

Good information John, I always get mine up to temp before vaporizing the rubber on my tires.

The filter photo I posted is the FL2062 taken out of a GT500 at my dealer by the GT Tech. It was installed by another dealer in town. He did tell me they were running out of the FL2087’s and he was suspicious of the FL2087-A but was waiting for data from Ford through the Tech line about the testing. If he doesn’t receive confirmation from Ford he’s told customers they can bring in their own filters as long as they are FL2087’s and not an aftermarket filter. Once I have confirmation from him I’ll post it.

 

[Catmonkey]

Good information John, I always get mine up to temp before vaporizing the rubber on my tires.

The filter photo I posted is the FL2087 taken out of a GT500 at my dealer by the GT Tech. It was installed by another dealer in town. He did tell me they were running out of the FL2087’s and he was suspicious of the FL2087-A but was waiting for data from Ford through the Tech line about the testing. If he doesn’t receive confirmation from Ford he’s told customers they can bring in their own filters as long as they are FL2087’s and not an aftermarket filter. Once I have confirmation from him I’ll post it.

Chris, if you're talking about the second photo in post #5, I don't believe that is an FL2087. Perhaps an FL2062 or FL2062A. The FL2087 has wire mesh in the pleats. It would not collapse like the one in that photo from excessive oil pressure. Maybe if someone stepped on it and then installed it. An FL2087A does not have the plastic end caps.

Here's a dissection of an FL2087.

 

[AZ21GT500]

Chris, if you're talking about the second photo in post #5, I don't believe that is an FL2087. Perhaps an FL2062 or FL2062A. The FL2087 has wire mesh in the pleats. It would not collapse like the one in that photo from excessive oil pressure. Maybe if someone stepped on it and then installed it. An FL2087A does not have the plastic end caps.

Here's a dissection of an FL2087.

Correct I mistakenly typed 2087 and corrected it to 2062 in my post above. Multitasking 🤣

 

[GT500 The Mistress]

There is no need to find the FL-2087 filters. The FL-2087-A filters are the new part. There have been no properly documented failures of the FL-2087-A filters. I am running a FL-2087-A as we speak. No issues whatsoever.

Thank you Scott. Good to know.

 

[GT500 The Mistress]

The predator engine does have an oil pressure bypass, which is set fairly high, but does not an have an oil filter bypass, and the worst thing you can do is immediately start subjecting the car to high rpm when it's stone cold, which is compounded exponentially in near or sub freezing temperatures. The winter rating (i.e. "5W") is the ability for the oil to flow when it's cold which is not even close to near freezing. You'd have to look at the data sheet for your oil, but most winter ratings are made at or about 40° celsius, which is 100° fahrenheit. That only means the oil, through additives should flow the equivalent of a single grade oil at that temperature. It stands to reason that your engine oil may never reach 100° celsius where the upper viscosity range is taken, 50 wt in the case of the GT500, in cold weather driving. So what is your viscosity on a cold start at or below freezing temperatures? I can't answer that, but it will be thick, just not as thick as a single grade. Really thick oil can make for a poor lubricant. Just looking up the specs on Mobil 1's 5w-50, I see a viscosity of 11.8 mm^2/s at 40° C and 111.8 mm^2/s at 100° C.

While the predator engine has dual coolant mechanisms, it warms up pretty fast. But, that is engine coolant. The 11.5 quarts of oil in the pan are going to take a while longer to even reach the "W" temperature threshold. Not to mention the oiling system has an external cooler. Whether it has a thermostatic bypass, I'm not sure. However, we do have an oil temperature gauge just to the right of the oil pressure gauge. Unless you're seeing oil temperatures exceeding 100°, take it easy a little while longer until it rises to that level. Ford even has hash marks in the lower end of the gauge scale as a warning. I wouldn't go "full send" unless I'm seeing oil temperatures north of that and closer to 150°, especially in modified cars. If an oil filter is going to fail as a result of oil pressure, the highest probability will be the result of cold temperatures and realize oil pressure has a direct coorelation to engine rpm. I suspect that the FL2062, the GT350 filter, that's being circulated to fuel this fire, probably failed when Ford was doing its endurance testing on a the predator engine in freezing temperatures and developed the FL2087. Whether Ford did any endurance testing with the FL2087A is anybody's guess.

Just food for thought.

I warm up until it reaches the first line on the temp gauge at a minimum, and temps here never come close to freezing, I mean 68 is a cold front here

Great info John.

 

[GT500 The Mistress]

Chris, if you're talking about the second photo in post #5, I don't believe that is an FL2087. Perhaps an FL2062 or FL2062A. The FL2087 has wire mesh in the pleats. It would not collapse like the one in that photo from excessive oil pressure. Maybe if someone stepped on it and then installed it. An FL2087A does not have the plastic end caps.

Here's a dissection of an FL2087.

Wonder why they changed it as that video shows a pretty damn good filter

 

[kilobravo]

Wonder why they changed it as that video shows a pretty damn good filter

Maybe because the plastic is cheaper than the steel, Thomas? Plus, they saved the cost of two end caps.

 

[lisam21]

Would you gents have any concerns using either of these two FL 2087s? I know they are scarce so I don't want to return them if there isn't a cause for concern.

The one on the right has an overflow of "glue" - which I haven't seen before.

The one of the left has that funky gap due to the metal band that runs from top to bottom.

I'm thinking the one on the left is ok to run, but the one with the glue overflow is likely a return. Thoughts?

View attachment 351718

I had a few that were like the one on the left and I took them to my Ford tech that does my service and asked him if I should keep them or return them and he recommended not using them so I ended up returning those.