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Jack up the rear end of the car using differential?

11K views 21 replies 14 participants last post by  Snoopy49  
#1 ·
Is this safe to do on a 2013 GT500? I'm looking for the quickest way of swapping rear tires.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I do, but I have a 820A car. On it it there is a little "pad" area on the bottom of the pumpkin that sits in the jack top.

I have read on here and SVTPerf, for the SVTPP cars with the Torsen, it is not a wise thing as you can crack the seal on the diff cover. I haven't seen a Torsen diff in person, so others can chime in with further.
 
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#5 ·
I lift the rear of my 2014 821A version with the floor jack at the end of the Axle tube near the tire. I have two floor jacks (cheap on sale, harbor freight) that can make it very quick and easy. I try to avoid putting a load like that on the diff housing if I can.

Temporary, ( not for storage) quick way of tire change, with front wheels chocked and on level ground a must!!!!
 
#7 ·
Been jacking up the rear via live axle diff for 20+ years via aluminum jack with padded saddle. Never had an issue. Jack stands are a must (have three sets ranging from 12" to 18" tall at rest) under the axle tubes.

IRS, I use a different method.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
First, the owner's manual says not to do it. Same with my '99 F-150. My concern is that the diff becomes a fulcrum while the springs are supporting the body weight on top of the axle way out at the end. With the minimal welds at the diff/tube junction it seems like a good way to bow the axle housing.

Steve
 
#9 ·
First, the owner's manual says not to do it. Same with my '99 F-150. My concern is that the diff becomes a fulcrum while the springs are supporting the body weight on top of the axle way out at the end. With the minimal welds at the diff/tube junction it seems like a good to bow the axle housing.

Steve
That is the reason I do not generally do it.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I believe the Owners Manual states that you are NOT to be racing the car either.:silly:

I always jack up the rear of my Shelby under the pumpkin, making sure there is no contact with the cover, and place a jack stand on each side about 18"-24" out from the center.
Then I lower the car so that the weight is distributed on all three points.
I have never encountered a problem using this method.

Image
 
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#11 ·
I can't find anything in my 14' manual that says "not recomended."
 
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#14 · (Edited)
You know what? I can't find it at the moment either. But I know I saw it somewhere. When I get a chance I'll try and find it. In the meantime, I stand by my axle bowing concern.

Steve

Edit: I found it. See post #21 on page 3.
 
#15 ·
I looked at one of those. The problem is that the end pads don't rise high enough to reach the axle tubes before the center hits the pumpkin.
Thanks, that was my main concern.


... In the meantime, I stand by my axle bowing concern.
In my thirty years of working in auto repair I must have jacked up thousands of cars and trucks by the center of the differential, and never had an issue (that I know of). I don't think I would store a vehicle that way, but is doesn't seem likely to me that an axle housing would bend when under a load for a few minutes.

This is one of those things that's hard to prove or disprove. But of course, there's not a downside to playing it safe.
 
#17 ·
my 2 cents are, why risk it? Jacking one side at a time cuts the load and potential damage down by close to 50%.

Jack it from the pumpkin to save what 5 min?

Plus the potential to be an unbalanced load.

Not worth the risk to me.

All you need is one jack stand or some 4x4 blocks.
 
owns 2008 Ford Shelby Mustang
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