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Install thread for lots of VMP Goodies, ported blower, etc

15K views 151 replies 17 participants last post by  HVCalTech  
#1 · (Edited)
Installing lots of stuff on my 21 GT500. Mods are ported blower, VMP Apex Predator Lid, 95mm Street Intercooler Brick, 2.7 pulley, billet water manifold, Predator Claw Tensioner bracket, Kong 108mm throttle body, ID1050x injectors, JLT Intake, HP RTD with VMP tuning. I’ll be posting pictures as I go.

So far, everything is torn down, and I’m waiting on a big package from VMP tomorrow.
 
#49 ·
Absolutely bad ass job Chad! 🤟
 
#52 ·
The only one close I’m aware of is one of those types that’s raised up a few feet you have to drive up ramps to get the car on there. With how low this car is and that front splitter, it makes me nervous. I’ve watched a lot of “dyno fails” videos on YouTube, too, so I definitely want to go to somebody who knows what he’s doing.
 
#53 ·
Here’s a quick pull to hear the glorious whine—on a closed course. ;). I haven’t had a chance to pull data logs to see how much boost I’m making. The factory boost gauge you can put in the center sucks. I drove it enough to get past the initial computer learning where it stopped shifting like crap but I need to drive it more. It still shifts at 7500, so I guess you need to shift it manually to get more RPM out of it.

 
#54 ·
Bad ass Chad!
 
#59 ·
Just curious if anyone else with an aftermarket pulley has noticed the difference in the idle sound with the hood open. You can hear a faint mechanical whirring sound that I never noticed before. I assume this is coming from the blower rotating since the aftermarket pulley is not clutched. Stock, the blower doesn’t turn at idle, so you don’t hear anything. At first I thought there was a bearing issue until it dawned on me that the pulley wasn’t clutched.
 
#61 ·
I have the clutched hellraiser 2.7 and I have the idle whir as well. I’m chalking it up to the ported blower lol. The noise that threw me off was the injectors…sounds like a typewriter 🤣
 
#60 ·
Chad is the whine due more to the lid and IC brick or the pully swap? I love it sounds amazing. :love:
Honestly, I’m not really sure Thomas. It’s probably a combination of all of them. My feeling is the biggest difference comes from the pulley and spinning the blower faster. The open air filter makes a pretty big difference too. I couldn’t even hear the blower when I was completely stock when revving it. When I installed the JLT, I could at least hear it a little. Tim is stock except for the intercooler brick and lid with a stock airbox, and his whine got more pronounced, so the lid must do something too. I doubt the intercooler makes very much difference in the sound, though.

It would be an enormous amount of work to do the mods one at a time to figure this out since you’d have to disassemble the car every time you tried a part. I’ll leave that to somebody else. Lol
This was an unexpected surprise in my case. The OEM lid has sound deadening materials in it. The VMP lid let’s the sing reign! Spinning the supercharger more quickly with a smaller pulley will make the scream more pronounced with the VMP lid over the OEM lid.
 
#66 · (Edited)
You got the important stuff and probably conservative until they can see where everything stands. The rest is fine tuning. They may not extend the rev limiter until it's ready for full send.

The Raptors have their own deal in Las Vegas, I believe. I'm pretty sure all the Broncos we drove were Badlands. and First Editions I choose a 2 door without the Sasquatch package, which didn't have the ground clearance they rest of my groups had. My personal Bronco is a 4 door and I wanted to see what the 2 door drove like. I liked it, but it just doesn't have as much room as the 4 door, so I won't be trading mine. I'll post a thread in the other Ford section.
 
#67 ·
I guess you added those videos or I didn't see them previously. I'm not hearing anything that's out of the range of normal. I think we all get super hyperfocus on sounds and noises after we're done working on something, and start doubting ourselves. I know I'm guilty of that. I'm sure it's all fine. How much time have you spent listening to the engine running with the hood up before you did this job? It's not a bad idea to do it and really focus on the what's going on before you start because a look back is real hard to do.
 
#68 ·
You can say that again. Lol. After I’ve ripped something apart and put it back together, I always imagine the worst. I do that with the test equipment I work on for a living too, especially when it’s something I haven’t done before. We’re always our own worst critic.

I honestly haven’t paid much attention to what it sounded like stock. I guess I should have gotten a good clip before I started ripping it apart. Hindsight is 20/20. I really appreciate the second opinion, though.
 
#69 ·
I drove my car again today after a big break and was taken aback once again at the sound difference with the VMP lid. It sounds bad ass!
 
#70 ·
Have you tried it with the windows down? I did a WOT pull up the onramp earlier, and I just about messed myself. It was F***n glorious!!!!! I need to try to get the wife to video an onramp pull, if she can stop bitching for 5 seconds that is—something about killing both of us??? I try to tune her out. :)
 
#76 ·
Tim, you only did the IC brick and lid swap yes? Do you hear the SC whine now? Since putting on the Kong CAI I can barely hear it, but the Exhaust drowns it out.
Yes and yes Thomas. Even when not in boost, the supercharger sings with the lid change.
 
#77 ·
Thank you Tim, and with no Tune required this is something I am willing to do here, I am very weary of who I can go to here to do any engine Mods.

You mention in another thread you'll dyno your Track Star on Friday, I will very interested in those Numbers.
 
#78 · (Edited)
Quick update—been working with Mike at VMP doing data logging making a bunch of 3rd and 4th gear manual shift mode pulls from 2500-6500 RPM at first and then 2500-8000 or so, with Mike tweaking the tune each time. My data logs have been looking great safety wise with just a couple degrees of overall knock retard and IAT2 temps mostly in the 120s spiking momentarily to 130-140s at the end of a hard pull with 80-90 degree inlet temps. Mike has been pulling a little timing out at high RPM to keep the ECM from pulling timing itself with knock retard near the top and then adding timing back in. I’ve been doing WOT logs to redline as he pulled a little more timing at each step. I was getting a minor oscillation that felt like the smallest momentary hesitation maybe 90% through a pull and then the power would come back as the ECM pulled timing and fed it back in. That’s completely gone now with the latest revision. The 4th revision of the tune feels perfect, and the car pulls HARD now all the way to redline and is completely linear. My supercharger inlet pressure is 13.3 PSIA and 33 PSIA MAP post blower for 19.7 pounds of peak boost on just a 2.7 pulley if I’m understanding all this correctly. Guess that big ass 108mm throttle body and ported blower are responsible for that. No bad noises, smells, smoke, or parts exiting the engine. :) Coolant levels are unchanged from the first drive, and no signs of belt slip at all. Mike is going above and beyond to get the tune tweaked to perfection. I never thought pulling timing would result in the car pulling this hard! Waiting on Mike to analyze the latest logs tomorrow. Hope I’m getting close. Don’t know how many more times I can get away with these WOT pulls to redline, in Mexico on a closed course. ;)

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#79 ·
Quick update—been working with Mike at VMP doing data logging making a bunch of 3rd and 4th gear manual shift mode pulls first from 2500-6500 RPM at first and then 2500-8000 or so, with Mike tweaking the tune each time. My data logs have been looking great safety wise with just a couple degrees of overall knock retard and IAT2 temps mostly in the 120s spiking momentarily to 130-140s at the end of a hard pull with 80-90 degree inlet temps. Mike has been pulling a little timing out at high RPM to keep the ECM from pulling timing itself with knock retard near the top and then adding timing back in. I’ve been doing WOT logs to redline as he pulled a little more timing at each step. I was getting a minor oscillation that felt like the smallest momentary hesitation maybe 90% through a pull and then the power would come back as the ECM pulled timing and fed it back in. That’s completely gone now with the latest revision. The 4th revision of the tune feels perfect, and the car pulls HARD now all the way to redline and is completely linear. My supercharger inlet pressure is 13.3 PSIA and 33 PSIA MAP post blower for 19.7 pounds of peak boost on just a 2.7 pulley if I’m understanding all this correctly. Guess that big ass 108mm throttle body and ported blower are responsible for that. No bad noises, smells, smoke, or parts exiting the engine. :) Coolant levels are unchanged from the first drive, and no signs of belt slip at all. Mike is going above and beyond to get the tune tweaked to perfection. I never thought pulling timing would result in the car pulling this hard! Waiting on Mike to analyze the latest logs tomorrow. Hope I’m getting close. Don’t know how many more times I can get away with these WOT pulls to redline, in Mexico on a closed course. ;)

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Thanks for sharing. And keep on having fun as you improve that wonderful race car, GT500.
 
#82 ·
Thomas, a data log is a digital recording of whatever functions you select that is capable of being captured and that data does come from the OBD port. With enough data, you can tell exactly what the car is doing at any point in time. Tuners do the same thing on a dyno, but when you don't have one available, there's no reason you can't do it on the road, it's just not as efficient or as safe. Almost all flash devices can be set up to datalog. SCT and HP Tuners have dedicated programs that you can download and set up as needed that can record and be viewed at any point in time during a recording. But you can choose too many functions to monitor, so depending on what piece you're trying to tune, you should select only the necessary functions for that portion of the tune you're trying to fine tune. At last I checked, only HP Tuners have figured out the PCM for 2020+ GT500.
 
#83 ·
You mention in another thread you'll dyno your Track Star on Friday, I will very interested in those Numbers.
Actually strapped it on the rollers yesterday for some pulls. Wanted to see what it would do as is… no dyno tricks… stock tune, stock air box (lid on) with only the VMP Apex Predator lid and larger street intercooler on my 10k mile track toy. I was pleased with the results. 💪 I’ll have a video out on the event (my car and others) when I get time to edit it. There was everything from a Fox body to this Super Snake on the dyno yesterday.

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#85 ·
I read this whole thread and truly enjoyed traveling along as a bystander! It was interesting reading about the process which is way above my paygrade! Reading Chad's and Johns's interactions was just amazing! Thanks for posting such an informative and entertaining thread, Chad! And it has a happy ending!
 
#87 ·
Heard back from Mike. He said everything looks good in the latest log. My original goal was to get as close to 900 wheel as I could on pump gas. Now I realize that”s unrealistic without higher octane from race fuel or E85. Mike recommended I try some boostane. He said I could get close to 900 wheel running that on top of 93.

Can’t wait to find somewhere to do a dyno run. Will definitely throw in some octane booster to hedge my bets when I dyno it. :)
 
#88 ·
Here are a few clips of my father in law driving the car today for the first time after the mods. He’s been driving fast cars for over 50 years and is usually pretty stoic. He’s had some super cool shit over the years, and the car even got a reaction out of him. Man I thought this car was fast before. It’s just wicked now. I couldn’t be happier with the results. Mike at VMP is the MAN.

Here’s the very first pull my father in law did.


Here are a couple more. He still has issues with the paddle shifters. He’s 69 and set in his ways. Lol


 
#89 ·
Here are a few clips of my father in law driving the car today for the first time after the mods. He’s been driving fast cars for over 50 years and is usually pretty stoic. He’s had some super cool shit over the years, and the car even got a reaction out of him. Man I thought this car was fast before. It’s just wicked now. I couldn’t be happier with the results. Mike at VMP is the MAN.

Here’s the very first pull my father in law did.


Here are a couple more. He still has issues with the paddle shifters. He’s 69 and set in his ways. Lol


He sounds giddy 🤣🤣 that’s awesome Chad!
 
#90 ·
You can get great results by doing a lot less than I did. You could do the lid, intercooler brick, pulley, and tune in your driveway in a few hours and end up with over 800 wheel HP on pump gas. Once you start, you’re gonna be hooked and want to do more, though. I’m already plotting for stage two once I replenish my empty wallet. Lol
Thank you Chad for the info, I already have the lid and IC brick on my list as those don't require a tune, VMP has packages I could get to do this yes?

I know about empty wallets, I am a expert on that:LOL:
 
#92 ·
Basically, Mike sent me a base tune and told me what logs he wanted. We started with a slow rev from idle to redline. After he looked at the log and confirmed everything looked good, he told me to do a log on the street with a WOT pull from 2500-6500 RPM. He tweaked the tune and had me do several more logs from 2500 to redline with tune tweaks in between each. You put the car in manual shift mode and start in a gear where you won’t be as likely to spin like 3rd or 4th. Put the car at 2500 RPM and floor it. Don’t back off till you hit close to redline. It’s harder to stay on it that long than you would think, especially in 4th gear. Third gear pulls don’t get to such ludicrous speeds but it’s a lot easier to break loose. It’s best to use a long straight road in the middle of nowhere to do this. Unfortunately I don’t have any available near me since all the country roads are curvy as hell. The interstate (or equivalent type large highway) is best in light to no traffic with a spotter running a mile or so in front of you to ensure you don’t encounter a traffic cop at 150 MPH. Lol
I understand Chad, I am sure you were enjoying all those WOT pulls from 2500-6500:LOL:

The only long straight near me to do what you explained above is SCTEX which is long straight toll road, they don't enforce the speed limit on much they have a couple of radar cameras

A few weeks back me and the wife did a road trip and on the way home as she was videoing my speedometer I hit 171mph, the rest of the way home I am nervous until we get to the end of the toll, the highway patrol is at the end and if they caught you that is where they'll ticket you and take your DL😬

But we had fun.

Thank you Chad for the help of educating me on this process, I wish I had someone here who knew this stuff or a shop here in Subic I could trust.

I would need help to reach some of the bolts as with my lower back issues I doubt I could do it, I also have Neurotrophy in my fingers and the extreme numbness I sometimes can't feel what I am holding, so a extra pair of hands is needed.

With this thread and Tim's IC brick and lid video I could do it. I need to save some cash first.

I am bookmarking this thread so its easier to find.

I am glad you made this thread Thank you 🙏:)
 
#94 ·
I understand Chad, I am sure you were enjoying all those WOT pulls from 2500-6500:LOL:

The only long straight near me to do what you explained above is SCTEX which is long straight toll road, they don't enforce the speed limit on much they have a couple of radar cameras

A few weeks back me and the wife did a road trip and on the way home as she was videoing my speedometer I hit 171mph, the rest of the way home I am nervous until we get to the end of the toll, the highway patrol is at the end and if they caught you that is where they'll ticket you and take your DL😬

But we had fun.

Thank you Chad for the help of educating me on this process, I wish I had someone here who knew this stuff or a shop here in Subic I could trust.

I would need help to reach some of the bolts as with my lower back issues I doubt I could do it, I also have Neurotrophy in my fingers and the extreme numbness I sometimes can't feel what I am holding, so a extra pair of hands is needed.

With this thread and Tim's IC brick and lid video I could do it. I need to save some cash first.

I am bookmarking this thread so its easier to find.

I am glad you made this thread Thank you 🙏:)
When I did the last pull, Mike wanted me to really send it and get it to redline. I tried to get it all the way to redline 5 or 6 times and never could manage before coming up on traffic so I got the wife to drive like a mile ahead of me on probably the straightest country road we have around here. Once she told me there were no other cars or cops hiding, I made the run. She was a mile ahead of me running 60 or so, and I still caught her and had to change lanes to pass her before I hit redline so I could end the run. I passed her at 162 MPH. :)
 
#97 ·
Just hope I don’t end up in the pokey before I’m finished.
I think most of us know the anxiety, Chad but good headwork having the wife run interference. What did she say afterward about when you passed her? :) =====> WHOOSH! :)

1954 was a very good year. Don't ask me how I know that.
Kinda partial to '53 myself, Cat. :)
 
#102 ·
I think most of us know the anxiety, Chad but good headwork having the wife run interference. What did she say afterward about when you passed her? :) =====> WHOOSH! :)



Kinda partial to '53 myself, Cat. :)
Really not sure, it was something like “bitch bitch bitch, nag nag nag.” I’ve learned to tune her out. Lol
 
#103 ·
I think Mike said 8500. To get above 7500, you have to put it in manual mode. The tach only reads to 8000, so you need to hit the paddle right before 8000 to avoid banging against the limiter. Mike said 8200 was a good place to shift for max power. It builds a LOT more power over 7500. None of the runs I posted revved that high, though, since my father in law was driving and isn’t used to the paddles. Car has never been to the dealer, so calibration is stock.
 
#105 ·
Love it all! Be careful though. Don’t end up in handcuffs!

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#106 ·
I swear, Goose, the image library that you have at your disposal is immense and, most are HD or close so thanks. She told me that you hired her for some modeling work around the shop and I'm sure we're all curious as to how that went. <BSEG>


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#107 ·
Check out that FOX!

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#113 ·
How the hell did you get the suppressors back in after injector swap? Did you change the rails also or just the injectors?
I did not change injectors or fuel rails.
They can remove the limiters. I recommend it. Been 200 in the mile event
Rev limiter vs. speed limiter.
 
#122 ·
I’m really curious what mine will do now with the limiter set as high as it will go.
If you have the room I would think it will hit 198mph I believe stock the cars would hit 200+ if there was no limiter on them