Whenever I do any aftermarket stereo/amps/etc I like to completely bypass all the stock wiring. I try to make it a point never to splice a factory wire. That way I don't get myself into trouble with gremlins, and if I ever want to return to stock its super easy.
So I decided to run all new speaker wire in the convertible, which is a pretty trivial, if time consuming job. I left the front doors until last thinking it would be a 10 minute job fishing wire through the rubber boot. Wrong... Ford put in one of those dreaded molex connectors. Sigh... the 10 minute job now became something much more significant. I read some horror stories, called and talked to an installer or two, and everyone recommended just giving up and splicing into the factory wiring to save frustration. Challenge accepted.
It's actually not THAT hard.. it is tedious at times, and your hands will probably hurt afterward, but it can be done. If you have big bear paws for hands, I would recommend you go find someone with little girly fingers to help you.
First, remove the door panels. These instructions come with the Shelby woofer set, and work just fine:
So you will be left with this:
Here is a shot from the inside of the door where the factory wiring comes through.
Here is the rubber boot you will be running your wire through.
First, push the door side of the rubber boot INTO the door's interior.
Take off the rubber boot from the body side.. ONLY the rubber boot, don't pry on the plastic part, it could break. The rubber boot just slips around the edges.
Now, that the rubber boot is loose from both ends, cram it down the wires and into the interior of the door.
The plastic harness has two parts.. the harness itself, then the outer plastic shell that holds it in place. It has two tabs.. one on top, and one on bottom. You don't have to get them both, just the one on top and it will tip downward and then the one on bottom will come loose.
The harness and body clip together are large, and you will struggle to maneuver them inside the small space. You may have to close the door slightly (don't squash any body parts you have in there), in order to be able to pull it out a little. Once you do, use a angled pick or something similar to separate the wiring harness from the surrounding cllp. Again, it has one on top, and one on bottom.. you only need to get one loose really and it will come apart.
Slide the outer clip down the wire, and stuff it into the door like the rubber boot. Now, you can get at the actual wiring harness. Pull it out a little, squeeze the two tabs (small hands helps here), and unclip the plastic lever. It should pop apart. Shove the harness into the door as well.
So I decided to run all new speaker wire in the convertible, which is a pretty trivial, if time consuming job. I left the front doors until last thinking it would be a 10 minute job fishing wire through the rubber boot. Wrong... Ford put in one of those dreaded molex connectors. Sigh... the 10 minute job now became something much more significant. I read some horror stories, called and talked to an installer or two, and everyone recommended just giving up and splicing into the factory wiring to save frustration. Challenge accepted.
It's actually not THAT hard.. it is tedious at times, and your hands will probably hurt afterward, but it can be done. If you have big bear paws for hands, I would recommend you go find someone with little girly fingers to help you.
First, remove the door panels. These instructions come with the Shelby woofer set, and work just fine:


So you will be left with this:

Here is a shot from the inside of the door where the factory wiring comes through.

Here is the rubber boot you will be running your wire through.

First, push the door side of the rubber boot INTO the door's interior.

Take off the rubber boot from the body side.. ONLY the rubber boot, don't pry on the plastic part, it could break. The rubber boot just slips around the edges.


Now, that the rubber boot is loose from both ends, cram it down the wires and into the interior of the door.

The plastic harness has two parts.. the harness itself, then the outer plastic shell that holds it in place. It has two tabs.. one on top, and one on bottom. You don't have to get them both, just the one on top and it will tip downward and then the one on bottom will come loose.


The harness and body clip together are large, and you will struggle to maneuver them inside the small space. You may have to close the door slightly (don't squash any body parts you have in there), in order to be able to pull it out a little. Once you do, use a angled pick or something similar to separate the wiring harness from the surrounding cllp. Again, it has one on top, and one on bottom.. you only need to get one loose really and it will come apart.



Slide the outer clip down the wire, and stuff it into the door like the rubber boot. Now, you can get at the actual wiring harness. Pull it out a little, squeeze the two tabs (small hands helps here), and unclip the plastic lever. It should pop apart. Shove the harness into the door as well.
