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Discussion Starter #1
Whenever I do any aftermarket stereo/amps/etc I like to completely bypass all the stock wiring. I try to make it a point never to splice a factory wire. That way I don't get myself into trouble with gremlins, and if I ever want to return to stock its super easy.

So I decided to run all new speaker wire in the convertible, which is a pretty trivial, if time consuming job. I left the front doors until last thinking it would be a 10 minute job fishing wire through the rubber boot. Wrong... Ford put in one of those dreaded molex connectors. Sigh... the 10 minute job now became something much more significant. I read some horror stories, called and talked to an installer or two, and everyone recommended just giving up and splicing into the factory wiring to save frustration. Challenge accepted.

It's actually not THAT hard.. it is tedious at times, and your hands will probably hurt afterward, but it can be done. If you have big bear paws for hands, I would recommend you go find someone with little girly fingers to help you.

First, remove the door panels. These instructions come with the Shelby woofer set, and work just fine:




So you will be left with this:


Here is a shot from the inside of the door where the factory wiring comes through.


Here is the rubber boot you will be running your wire through.


First, push the door side of the rubber boot INTO the door's interior.


Take off the rubber boot from the body side.. ONLY the rubber boot, don't pry on the plastic part, it could break. The rubber boot just slips around the edges.



Now, that the rubber boot is loose from both ends, cram it down the wires and into the interior of the door.


The plastic harness has two parts.. the harness itself, then the outer plastic shell that holds it in place. It has two tabs.. one on top, and one on bottom. You don't have to get them both, just the one on top and it will tip downward and then the one on bottom will come loose.



The harness and body clip together are large, and you will struggle to maneuver them inside the small space. You may have to close the door slightly (don't squash any body parts you have in there), in order to be able to pull it out a little. Once you do, use a angled pick or something similar to separate the wiring harness from the surrounding cllp. Again, it has one on top, and one on bottom.. you only need to get one loose really and it will come apart.




Slide the outer clip down the wire, and stuff it into the door like the rubber boot. Now, you can get at the actual wiring harness. Pull it out a little, squeeze the two tabs (small hands helps here), and unclip the plastic lever. It should pop apart. Shove the harness into the door as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here is the whole thing now hanging out of the door where you can get at it. I chose to bring it out of the 5x7 hole for the pic, but you will have more to work with if you pull back the plastic and bring it out down at the bottom of the door where the sub enclosure was.


Now fish your speaker wire through the now very large hole in the body, and the door. I like to use one of these.

It's a little tougher on the driver side, but a trick is to just shine a flashlight in one side, cram your head up under the dash, see where the light is coming through, then fish along that same path.

Here is the speaker wire coming out the hole in the body from under the dash.


And down into the door..


We don't want to bother the wiring harness one bit.. The speaker wire can go through that outer clip. Here is a close of shot of the outer clip. I'll aim for one of the little triangular bits on the corner. Since I'm running two sets of wire (one for the woofers, and one for the 5x7), I used two corners.


Dremel out the corner spaces. I hit all three corners of the triangle. Be extra careful here not to get the dremel bit anywhere near the wiring, or the wiring harness!



Then hollowed it out from there



Now feed your speaker wire through the holes in the direction it would go from the body.


Next, feed it through the rubber boot.


You also have the chance to dab some silicone into the holes you drilled if you want to be sure everything is completely sealed.

Now its just a matter of sliding it all back up the wire, and reconnecting it at the door. I did it in pieces, just like I took it apart.
First, the actual wiring harness. Note, the body side of the harness likes to fall back into it's little hole then laugh at you. You may want to lasso it to something when you first get the connector apart. You can fish it back out with your fingers without too much trouble, but it's a pain that can be avoided.


Next, the surrounding clip. Don't clip it back into the door.. you will never get the rubber boot on. Slip the rubber boot on now, while you can move it around. You may even be able to put the boot on while it's completely exposed and hanging out of the door. Not sure if that would make getting it back through the small hole in the door difficult, but may be worth a try.

Anyway, rubber boot on, snap it back into the body, and done.



Here is the end shot from the inside of the door.


Hope this helps someone out.
Thanks!
Chris
 

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I sure miss great write ups like this! Not a project I would want to do, but enjoy reading them.
 

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Great write up! Very helpful!!! Good to know this is available if I ever decide to tackle this one. I replaced my entire system in my Duramax and every tip or trick to save time and frustration is appreciated on jobs like this.


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