You can't just swap the ring and pinion, and put it back together like it came apart. The shims from side to side will be different in just about all gear changes to get the correct backlash, not to mention the pinion gear has to be set to the correct depth. The differential spacers will be off quite a bit when you're changing ratios. If you've never done this before, drop the axle and bring it to someone with some experience in doing this and let them finish it.

If you're bound and determined to do this, you're going to need to find a thinner shim (those case iron rings) on whichever side you need more clearance and get a shim kit to finish it off. You can order them from your Ford dealer, but you'll need to know about what shim width you need.

 

The gears are all the same for Ford 8.8s. The carriers usually come in two different sizes, depending on gear ratio 28 spline or 31 spline. There is a difference in pinion bearings a early and a late make sure you have the right one.

 

one more thing, the inner bearing on the pinion is bigger on the Gt500s than a regular 8.8, the inside and outside dimensions are the same but the good one has more rollers in it. If you purchased Ford gears, the setup is relatively simple since Ford grinds all their gears to the same zero, you will still need the FP pinion depth tool however, and generally ( but always check this) with FP gears and bearings you usually can just throw a .020 pinion shim in and it will be dead nuts on, then you need to set the backlash on the ring gear which will take a dial indicator..
there's a couple of things I don't agree with here, but basically this.
Also you can get around the press with some adroit work with a decent chisel, but it's much more work.

Ford 8.8" Pinion Depth Setting Tool - LMR.com

This Mustang pinion depth setting tool allows you to select the proper shim when installing new gears.

lmr.com

 

You have to really lean on the wrench to actually crush the crush sleeve, you can reach around and grab the pinion with a rag (because it will tear your hand to shreds) and lube up the impact wrench and go for it, just remember to stop once in awhile to measure the "resistance torque" on the pinion. When you measure it, it will "spike" when the pinion starts to move then will settle down as it turns, THAT is what you are trying to measure with the torque wrench.

 

So we got the pinion in and just snugged the yoke nut and the pinion is beginning to become really difficult to turn. Last time we took it to the tq spec it would just lock up. I got the same bearings as what came out of the car just purchased new ones as well. But the pinion is prematurely locking up. .020 shim is now on the pinion as well.

 

@blacksheep-1 is dead on regarding the crush collar. It takes a lot to get it to start, and once it does it’s a very fine line before over-crushing. I’ve had to tear apart myself a few times and why I keep extra crush collars. A beam inch lb wrench works great as you’re checking the resistance of torque while turning, not the torque of the nut.

Setting up gears isn't hard, but to do it right takes experience. If you’re not sure, I also agree taking the axle and parts to someone qualified and ask if you can watch (paying them of course!)

 

if you don't have an extra crush sleeve, you can slide a .010 shim in there and get it to crush a little more, but you only get 2 chances, the original and the one with the shim.

 

updates????

you're tackling one of the more difficult aspects of building cars, so any help you need, let us know, I'm sure there are guys here that can help you out. Don't worry about making mistakes, you really can't destroy too much there even if you have to take it apart 50 times.

 

Welcome to the forum Wildryno! You’ve come to a good place for info and sharing for these amazing cars!

If you are up for introducing yourself and showing us your ride, you’ll find our new member area here:

New Member Introductions

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www.fordgt500.com

 

Thanks! I'll have to give it a whirl tonight

 

that's an .020 shim NOT .030, I had far fingered the keyboard

 

I had far fingered the keyboard

Funny!

Thanks for helping Wildryno blacksheep!

 

Lol thanks for the help guys

 

My thing is it's not crushing the crush sleeve when we put it in plus the pinion acts like it really dosent wanna move too much

 

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=3182263108465065&id=100000442200202

 

Did you get the installation kit that goes with the gear sets?

It comes with all the different shims.

This is the install kit: Ford Performance Parts Ring and Pinion Installation Kits M-4210-C3

 

I'm probably gonna take it to a guys shop here in town hopefully sometime this week alots happened this week but in the process of finding a trailer

 

dude, go for it, you've come this far, if you master this, there's nothing you can't do on a car.

 

True I do got all the time in the world for it lol I'm pretty much the only one on thos project now buddys said they wernt gonna be over for a couple weeks thanks to this virus

 

You certainly can get lucky and just change the ring and pinion and not have to change the bearing spacers or pinion shim depth (I have many times and it's still in spec) just obviously check to make sure it's in spec, I typically do new bearings if they have a lot of miles on them and then just the crush ring and check from there.

As stated be careful once the crush ring starts to go check it very often for the rotational torque resistance, and a really good tip, once you hit the target rotational torque resistance tap on the front and back of the pinion with a flat punch and hammer. This allows it to settle and will lower the rotational torque resistance, if you go over that spec tapping the pinion is a saving grace.