Very nice! Makes me want a trailer for myself. Even though I have absolutely no use for one since Ill probably never have to trailer my Shelby anywhere. :grinbiginvert:

 

That's a damn nice trailer! I also had to use 2x8's to get the car door open. Also had the side door made for access. Another problem for lowered cars. Mine pulls really good but isn't as pretty as yours, it's just plain white for now. Upgraded tires on the build order, only one flat so far!
You'll like being able to take the car + a bunch of other stuff on a trip without having to cram it all in the truck!

 

Thanks for the compliment and your insight! You're right about the trip potential. I had mentioned to the wife that when we weren't cruising the country pulling our 5th wheel, a trip to the coast pulling this trailer with Shelby would be fun. Some of those coastal roads or Napa Valley vineyard roads will be fun cruising in Shelby!

 

The V-nose is nice. I can turn the Honda 400 4-wheeler sideways & haul it in front of the car. The Powerstroke doesnt know theres any added weight back there, it pulls very well. High winds, then you can tell somethings back there!

 

The V-nose is nice. I can turn the Honda 400 4-wheeler sideways & haul it in front of the car. The Powerstroke doesnt know theres any added weight back there, it pulls very well. High winds, then you can tell somethings back there!
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Excellent pic. Thanks! My car isn't lowered like yours. So I don't expect I'll need to add any ramps or blocks at the entrance to the ramp. That's why I calculated the ramp angle of the trailer. Did you fab ramps inside? My guess is you needed three 2x8's....or 4 since you are lower.

Your trailer looks to be the same length as mine. Definitely like the V-nose. That was a requirement. Got the added benefit of a couple cabinets up front, and I have a Yamaha Grizzly that will fit nicely like you are doing.

Is your truck an F350 or F250? Overload springs and/or bags, or you hauling with stock setup? Mine is an F250 with the 6.2L gasser. Plan is to add the overload springs and then air bags with onboard compressor so I can adjust ride height depending on the hitch weight. This will help stability hauling the trailer and 5th wheel (when we get it). This trailer also came with the load distribution bars that the previous owner bought. Don't know what kind....they're a bonus.

 

Nice trailers!

Kodak, what do you tow it with?

 

Do you need to buy an I? :rofl: Couldn't resist that one.

 

Nice trailer Mike.

T.

 

Thanks Tony. I almost called you as my storage options were starting to get thin as others were going on vacations or having knee surgeries. I had the seller deliver, but I didn't know what you had for parking area around your house and didn't want to impose. In the end I knew you'd help me out regardless of how inconvenient it might be. (That's a compliment buddy.)

 

Funny bastards (Kodak vs. Kodiak)! I blame APPLE!! (That's my story and I'm sticking to it.)

 

Looks nice. What is your hitch rating?

 

2011 F250 SRW is 850lb tongue weight and 8,500lbs trailer weight if you don't use a weight distribution hitch. With a weight dist hitch it's 1,200lbs hitch weight and 12,500lbs trailer weight.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/resource...om/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/2011 RV and Trailer Towing Guide.pdf

The trailer's empty tongue weight is 320lbs, and I'll focus on getting the car location set to balance the load. Then any extra stuff put in the trailer will have to be distributed to keep the balance with enough tongue weight but not too much.

Ironically, a while ago when I did all the necessary research that your question hints at, I found I will have a tough time finding a 5th wheel that doesn't have a pin weight that will drive my GVW over the GVWR once I add in the weight of the 5th wheel hitch, my wife, and myself. It's a lot more than just what the truck mfr's advertise for max towing capacity for their different trucks.

Thanks for asking. Some people don't think these things all the way through.

 

Kodiak, Super nice trailer. I looked at enclosed myself but wound up buying a open trailer, I live in Florida so my weather is much different than yours.

 

Very nice trailer Mike,congrats!!

 

Thanks Ford Man and Pat! I'm sure it'll be a little tough looking at it in the driveway and not using it, but heck, I can start modding her too.

Good question Ford Fest. Doug, I'll probably go a similar route to you since I have 4 D rings in the floor right now, but have you ever looked at the nets that are cinched down over the tires? It would obviously require double the count of D rings, and they would have to be located in the floor correctly.

 

I've seen the nets but for now just use the D-ring setup because it's allready there. Will paint the inside of the trailer this winter, thinking of striping the exterior to match my truck, & maybe mod the hookup points. Trailer mods! I was surprised as to how good it pulls. You forget it's back there.
Money well spent! I'll make it look good in time, kinda plain compared to yours!

 

there's also a set up like this Mike if you want to check it out.

 

Thanks Pat. A lot of flexibility in the use of the tracks, but I've got to think about having something like that sticking up on the deck. If I start winching things like logs, root balls, or other things that might hang on or plug the tracks with trash, I may regret installing the tracks.

Seems like grabbing the rear axle lends itself to a number of alternatives, but grabbing the front will require more thought so I don't tweak something. That's one reason I was wondering about the tire webbing.

 

Ok,you're totally right with the debris Mike,better off with the D-Rings/straps then..I've seen many trailers using those set ups.

 

Sorry Pat. We replied at the same time. When I had my car shipped back to me via big ass car hauler, they had e-track, but your tires lined up on top of it. The driver tied down the strap in front and behind each tire.


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It's a good set up no doubt Bob if trailer is only for car hauling imo,but with Mike doing log work and stuff,think the D-rings and straps are better option,no doubt.

 

I think the tracks would be great if I only used the trailer to haul Shelby, but since I'm thinking of other uses, they may not be best. I'd hate to set myself up for cleaning out all those slots in the track.

 

Ha, just thought about deer and elk hair/blood getting stuck in them too. That could get a little stinky.

 

The track system looks good. Surely they are anchored solid. The D-ring bolts to the inner frame, solid. I had to winch a Terminator up into the trailer with a chain hoist with mine so I know their stout. Long story..
You need one Bob! At night you can peek in & turn on the interior lights to check the car. Looks good in there under the lights.

 

I asked, and the D rings in mine are supposedly rated at 5,000lbs. They should do the trick for most anything I anchor or have to pull into the trailer. And, if I need to add more, it shouldn't be to difficult, but I'll want to think a lot about optimal location before I cut holes. I tend to think and research a lot before taking the leap. Holes are hard to undo.

 

Sounds kinda nutty, but I've thought about riding in the trailer with the car while my son pulls the trailer just to see first hand what's going on while in transit.

 

Put a go pro back there.

Safer and legal to boot.

 

Here's a few vids Mike,trying to help the best I can with suggestions..

rated at 5000lbs D-rings
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3z_J_rwyiyM

different rated tie-downs and types
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btRWr3OO-hs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGL4-gPLTyo




Where to determine the D-rings location..
http://www.etrailer.com/question-35792.html

 

Good video links Pat. Thank you very much!

 

That Trailex trailer is sweet! Not sure I can talk the Mrs. into dropping $20k on a trailer???

 

You can get a nice Doolittle, made in JeffCity for under 7k.

 

Here is a pic of my 20' United "slopenose". 7.25" from the floor to the top of the inner fender and 9" from the floor to the escape door opening. I bought it new in 2011 and the price then was $7995. That's an '08 F250 diesel hooked up in the pics and you didn't know the trailer was back there. I've since swapped the 250 diesel and 2012 Shelby in on the 2014 Shelby and replaced the truck with a 2014 F250 Gas with 4.30 rear which pulls it fine. I personally just couldn't justify spending another $8300 to get the diesel this time. I don't need it at work anymore and won't be doing that much towing.

 

That is a sweet-ass trailer!

 

Snazy floor in that trailer. Looks like it could be on the floor of a garage!

 

Thanks guys. That is a really nice trailer Kodiak!! Looks heavy duty. I like the door on the front too. That would sure be handy at times. I can just see my 8 year old grandson riding his bike in one door and out the other. The salesman talked me out of a V nose saying they were more affected by the wind from oncoming traffic than the slopenose... I don't know.. he probably had more slopes on the lot to sell than V's and was just stroking me to unload a slope. The V is certainly more practical, especially with the entry door. Congrats!!