Here you go:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?685466-How-I-Change-the-Oil-in-my-2007-GT500#post9536631

 

I do not use a torque wrench on the drain plug. The oil filter in the 2014 is in a difficult spot to deal with making it pretty messy when first removed...I use a strap wrench to remove mine but only heavily hand tightened when I put it back on. I start my car first to warm the engine and oil so it drains better, then I leave it up on my ramps to drain for a couple of hours. Also, the drain is at the back of the pan on the 2014 so I think more tends to drain out when on ramps.

 

I don't use a torque wrench. Hand tighten only. Spin on filter till just toughing and then another 3/4 turn. Put a thin film of new oil on the gasket before putting filter on. You can do it cold but warming the engine lets the oil drain much better.

 

One suggestion for making the process way less messy...Use a gallon size Ziplock bag to remove the filter. Open the bag and lift it over the entire filter area. When you twist it off, the oil will drain into the bag. Let it drain about a minute, then zip up the filter and wipe the area down. I've used this trick several times and it really minimizes the mess.

 

This one's good. Thanks for the tip.

 

oh, another good tip is to fill/prep the filter with oil before putting it on- from what I understand it is better than dry starting the engine after it is drained.

 

Run till atleast warm - this helps drain but more importantly helps get the nasties that are laying on the bottom of the pan. The oil filter is not under the cover that say's remove for service. Left rear area.

 

How many have used the screwdriver thru the filter to get the old one off?

 

^^^ no never

 

I'm probably going to set a fire in this thread.
I have done this for years on engines that make the GT's cost seem like a Pinto's. Put a can of Seafoam in and warm the the thing up before daining. It will keep everything nice and clean internaly. I know some will say OMG no, but like I've said I have done this on some really expensive engines without any issue. I have pulled apart engines with this done and they are remarkably clean. It works. I have a 944Turbo with 227k miles on it that i did this with and when I rebuilt it the thing was nearly as clean as when new. I do this in all my cars; 4 Porsches, a Jeep with a 4.7 Stroker, and a '66 Bronco with a BOSS 302....
So begin with the naysayers, I know it works fine.
http://seafoamsales.com/using-in-crankcase-oil/

 

+1. I also use Seafoam, though I have yet to do it on the Shelby. Rather than an entire can in the crankcase, I split mine ~1/3 in the gas tank, ~1/3 in a vacuum line, and the final ~1/3 in the crankcase.

 

Booky,
Can you drastically reduce the size of your picture? 6016x4000 pixels is way to large.

 

Sorry, I just grabbed it off the net and did not realize on large it was.

Deleted.

 

All good info above. A couple more thoughts:

1. Make sure the O-ring from the previous filter does not get left on. There have been a few threads about that happening.

2. Use something like tinfoil or cardboard to direct the oil drain flow around the K-member so it doesn't get caught and then leak on your garage floor later.

 

Thank you for reducing the picture size.

This is what I do.

1. Warm up engine, oil gets nice and runny.
2. Jack up front of car or use drive on ramps.
3. Position oil pan under drain plug and drape foil or plastic over any parts of the frame or undercarriage that could collect oil drippings.
4. Carefully remove oil drain plug. Be aware of where all your body parts are and their proximity to the scolding hot oil that will surly find them if you skip this step.
5. Let the oil drain for about 10-15 minutes before replacing drain plug.
6. Double check and make sure the drain plug has been tightened properly. Tighten the drain plug to 26 Nm (19 lb-ft). You don't want to be laying in bed at 2 AM wondering if you tighten the drain plug.
7. Get an old 1 or 2 liter plastic soda bottle and cut it to fit the filter. Make sure that you test fit it before you try to remove the filter. The job of the bottle is to separate you from the oil filter and catch the hot oil that is going to run down the sides of the filter as soon as you break the seal on the filter. There is nothing that compares to scalding hot oil running down your arm and pooling in your arm pit.
8. Once you have the filter removed, clean up the mating surface on the block and make sure the old o-ring seal has been removed. In this case, 2 seals and not better than one.
9. Pre-fill the filter. This is my personal preference, other may disagree.
10. Oil the new seal on the filter with clean engine oil and take one more look at its final destination and make sure all you see is clean bare metal.
11. Screw on the new filter until the seal makes contact with the block and continue to turn the filter an additional 270 degrees (3/4 turn).
12. Add the required amount of oil minus 1 quart.
13. Start the car and be sure to check for leaks.
14. Lower the car or back it off the ramps, driving it forward off the ramps is not a good idea. But if you decide to do that, make sure someone is videoing the procedure in HD for the viewing enjoyment of us YouTube viewers.
15. Shutdown the engine and let the car sit for about 5 minutes and then check the oil level and add oil as needed.
16. Take one more look under the car for any signs of a leak.
17. Make sure the dipstick is properly seated in it tube and the oil fill cap is installed correctly on the valve cover.
18. If you have an oil separator installed on the engine, now would be a good time to drain it.
19. Make sure you close the drain valve on the separator. You do not want any air leaks in the system.
20. Look around the engine bay and make sure you have removed all the tools and rags you used
21. Once you have confirmed the engine bay is clear of anything that could cause damage to your car or yourself, close the hood.
22. Job done.

 

If you want to one step further and for quickness you may want to change the drain plug with Fumoto Valve. I have 2 of those in a Jeep and Ford Expedition for over 5 years each already.

 

I ran one on my Tacoma for while. While convenient, I found it extended my oil drain times too much.

I never thought about putting one on the Shelby because of its size, how low the car sits, and (given time it took to drain ~5qts of oil) how long I expects 9qts to take... Is anybody actually running one in their Shelby?

 

Fumoto Valve

 

I've gotten in the habit of emptying the very full oil drain pan before removing the oil filter to mitigate the risk of having oil splashed all over should I drop the slippery filter into a pan full of oil.

 

Wouldn't it be easier to just remove the filter first?

 

Alright, now I am definitely ready for spring:

 

Booky - from where did you order? I am getting ready to do the same...

 

I used Amsoil in my bikes for years, good product, I didnt know they made 5w-50, thanxs for the heads up.

Seafoam is good stuff, use it in my truck & kids Mini (engine oil & gas tank)

Also use the Zip lock baggy trick to stop the spillage (1 of my dads tricks), I HATE cleaning up spillage.

Colin

 

Ive been using Amsoil 10W-40 and after they announced 5W-50 I figured I'd make the switch but found some good reading on svtp and bobtheoilguy sites. So now I've since ordered 10W-30 instead.

Amsoil XLO 10W-40 – Use this if you have the stock 192* thermostat, or if you like to take to the twisty track for short sessions/learning experience. This lubricant requires changing every 6 months or 10,000 miles, whichever occur first.

Amsoil ATM 10W-30 – Use this if you have the Reisch 170* thermostat, and you do NOT road race your car. Street brawls and drag racing is OK with this lubricant. This lubricant requires changing every 12 months or 15,000 miles, whichever occur first.

Amsoil AMR 5W-50 - use this if you are driving in serious competition or long session closed course racing while pushing the engine to the edge of cooling limits. This is also the best formulation to use when you are worried about your factory warranty. It's not required, but some people can't sleep at night unless it's in there.

 

I just bought the new AZF 0W-40 for my oil change. The oil Guru on SVT said it will be the new recommendation for all shelbys because of it's no compromise formula. It was made for the hellcat but tests show it's perfect for out cars as well.

Just a FYI for everyone.

 

I'll be going Amsoil 0W-40 as well.

 

Fumoto Valves. Run the F-107N with a piece of tubing on there to run the oil back into some empty windshield washer or oil containers. Hit the valve to switch to new container. So much cleaner.

Keep the pan around for the filter.

 

Click here and post #722...has my step by step HOW TO for the Oil Change.
http://www.gtamc.com/forum.php/show...?106873-MY-GT500-MODS-and-OTHER-STUFF/page73&highlight=my+gt500+and+other+stuff

 

Went to Amsoil 10W40 10k miles ago, switched to the new 5W50 yesterday. Draining the oil is easy, removing the filter is another story. Tried the ziploc bag & the 2 liter bottle methods, both still made a mess. Filter over the frame is a PITA!

 

I use aluminum foil over the frame and under the filter. Flex it just a bit to build a natural funnel down to the oil catch pan and then just pitch the aluminum foil when you're all said and done.

The ziploc bag sounds like a neat idea as well.

 

For us and other anal-retentive types, use both! One gallon ziplock bag AND foil over the frame as well.
Once the filter is bagged then removed there still is a dripping or two from the surface of where it mounts!
The foil also provides some extra insurance when installing the filter full of oil, or partially full whatever your preference.

Just a thought.