I have a 2008 leftover Shelby ragtop with 500 miles on it. I have some shudder taking off and backing up, but it seems to have gotten better. My question is ; is it enevitable that the flywheel will warp and cause major problems or will it just stay this way and be tolerable?
stormylove
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warped flywheels tsp's etc
I think this is the latest version of the Clutch TSB:
http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/in...m/forums/index.php?/topic/53664-4th-revision-the-new-revised-clutch-tsb-10-3-8/
Pictures of a printout of the TSB are included in the above post, but here is an excerpt of the pertinent part:
The shudder is normal and has no bearing on whether or not your car will ever develop the problems the TSB adresses. Some cars develop the problem, some don't.
That said, the shudder is irritating, but you can mitigate it by revving the engine slightly before letting the clutch out. My 2009 was made after the new flywheel began to be installed on production cars so my car should theoretically never develop the TSB issue, but it still shudders. Edit: The production fix date is removed in the latest version of the TSB, so my car is now eligible for the TSB fix if need be.
You said that your dealer was going to do the TSB for you as a warranty repair. If so, let them do it. You'll get the 2010 clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder. No shudder, and it won't feel like a tractor clutch any more (i.e. it won't take 100 lbs of force to depress the clutch, lol). Good luck!
http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/in...m/forums/index.php?/topic/53664-4th-revision-the-new-revised-clutch-tsb-10-3-8/
Pictures of a printout of the TSB are included in the above post, but here is an excerpt of the pertinent part:
ISSUE:
Some 2007-2009 Mustang Shelby GT500 vehicles may exhibit the following clutch/transmission symptoms: hard to disengage or engage 1st and reverse, hard to shift all gears, vehicle creeps with transmission in gear and clutch pedal fully depressed without brake pedal application. These symptoms may be caused by the clutch not disengaging fully when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. This may be due to flywheel distortion caused by excessive heat build-up during unique traffic conditions (example: severe stop/go urban driving, excessive clutch slipping). The clutch system is designed for performance driving conditions.
ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Located at the end of the procedure are Figures 1, 2 and 3 which show the typical appearance of a flywheel and clutch that has been damaged due to overheating of the clutch. Figures 4, 5 and 6 show the typical appearance of a good flywheel and clutch.
This procedure does not apply to or correct the normal characteristics of the twin-disc cera-metallic clutch used in the Shelby GT500 vehicle or normal wear. The twin disc cera-metallic clutch incorporates racing technology to combine a low inertia assembly with a very durable friction material with high torque capability. Depending on your driving technique, the smoothness of how the clutch reacts to clutch engagements may be different from other vehicles that use a single disc clutch system. Also refer to pages 8 and 9 of the GT500 Owner Guide Supplement for additional information.
Normal Operating Characteristics Of The Twin Disc Cera-metallic Clutch
* Clutch chatter/shudder when engaging the clutch.
* Narrow or abrupt engagement point.
* Hiss upon clutch engagement or disengagement.
* Transmission gear rollover noise at idle.
* Gear rattle noise at very low speeds when in 1st or 2nd gear.
* Normal wear.
Some 2007-2009 Mustang Shelby GT500 vehicles may exhibit the following clutch/transmission symptoms: hard to disengage or engage 1st and reverse, hard to shift all gears, vehicle creeps with transmission in gear and clutch pedal fully depressed without brake pedal application. These symptoms may be caused by the clutch not disengaging fully when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. This may be due to flywheel distortion caused by excessive heat build-up during unique traffic conditions (example: severe stop/go urban driving, excessive clutch slipping). The clutch system is designed for performance driving conditions.
ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Located at the end of the procedure are Figures 1, 2 and 3 which show the typical appearance of a flywheel and clutch that has been damaged due to overheating of the clutch. Figures 4, 5 and 6 show the typical appearance of a good flywheel and clutch.
This procedure does not apply to or correct the normal characteristics of the twin-disc cera-metallic clutch used in the Shelby GT500 vehicle or normal wear. The twin disc cera-metallic clutch incorporates racing technology to combine a low inertia assembly with a very durable friction material with high torque capability. Depending on your driving technique, the smoothness of how the clutch reacts to clutch engagements may be different from other vehicles that use a single disc clutch system. Also refer to pages 8 and 9 of the GT500 Owner Guide Supplement for additional information.
Normal Operating Characteristics Of The Twin Disc Cera-metallic Clutch
* Clutch chatter/shudder when engaging the clutch.
* Narrow or abrupt engagement point.
* Hiss upon clutch engagement or disengagement.
* Transmission gear rollover noise at idle.
* Gear rattle noise at very low speeds when in 1st or 2nd gear.
* Normal wear.
The shudder is normal and has no bearing on whether or not your car will ever develop the problems the TSB adresses. Some cars develop the problem, some don't.
That said, the shudder is irritating, but you can mitigate it by revving the engine slightly before letting the clutch out. My 2009 was made after the new flywheel began to be installed on production cars so my car should theoretically never develop the TSB issue, but it still shudders. Edit: The production fix date is removed in the latest version of the TSB, so my car is now eligible for the TSB fix if need be.
You said that your dealer was going to do the TSB for you as a warranty repair. If so, let them do it. You'll get the 2010 clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder. No shudder, and it won't feel like a tractor clutch any more (i.e. it won't take 100 lbs of force to depress the clutch, lol). Good luck!
Put a 3.73 gear in it now and it will reduce the heat buildup from friction in normal driving....it might even stop the warping of the flywheel.
If nothing else it will take away some of the shudder when you let it out. I did my 3.73 at about 2500 miles, and now that I have 3500 miles it exhibits no problems at all on takeoff. In traffic my clutch is fully engaged after about 5 feet without even touching the gas pedal (900-950 rpm idle since the tune). Maybe the clutch just had to be broken in....I dunno. But its fine now other than my knee getting sore once in awhile from the damn pressure of it.
Since the tune and 3.73 gear I never have to "play" with the clutch, so I doubt it builds up much heat to the flywheel. And with the 3.73 I can nail the pedal any time to light them up, or play with the throttle to try to get some bite without resorting to using the clutch. Needless to say, its a totally different car with a tune, pulley, CAI and 3.73.
If nothing else it will take away some of the shudder when you let it out. I did my 3.73 at about 2500 miles, and now that I have 3500 miles it exhibits no problems at all on takeoff. In traffic my clutch is fully engaged after about 5 feet without even touching the gas pedal (900-950 rpm idle since the tune). Maybe the clutch just had to be broken in....I dunno. But its fine now other than my knee getting sore once in awhile from the damn pressure of it.
Since the tune and 3.73 gear I never have to "play" with the clutch, so I doubt it builds up much heat to the flywheel. And with the 3.73 I can nail the pedal any time to light them up, or play with the throttle to try to get some bite without resorting to using the clutch. Needless to say, its a totally different car with a tune, pulley, CAI and 3.73.
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