I got a brass one-piece T from McMaster Carr. I think I used 1/4". I'd use the small vinyl tubing that comes with most gauges to plumb it. It makes the gauge a little more responsive because there's less air to displace in the line between the T and the gauge or MAP sensor. Mine is at least a 5' run. I put my tubing in a 1/4" convoluted wire loom casing to help protect it.

 

I got the Shelby gauge kit during black Friday week, some small parts were missing, including the plastic t and the rubber connector from t to small vac line.

third autoparts store I went to had them:

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-17841-47338.aspx

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-5038-47403.aspx

might be what you're looking for?!.

 

I got the Shelby gauge kit during black Friday week, some small parts were missing, including the plastic t and the rubber connector from t to small vac line.

third autoparts store I went to had them:

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-17841-47338.aspx

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-5038-47403.aspx

might be what you're looking for?!.

Thats a shocker
I was missing parts also but Jeremy from Shelby took care of the issue, Vegas to BC Canada (2 times)

Colin

 

Awesome, thanks guys. That second piece is a really nice solution Ed.

 

Autometer supplies those with their boost gauge. They also suggest using heat shrink tubing on the section that the vinyl tubing plugs into. It's like a mini hose clamp so it stays attached under boost.

 

AEM does it a little different with 1/8" line and a remote transducer, so the vaccuum tube doesn't have to run all the way to the gauge. Debating where to mount it as inside the car would probably make it last longer than in the engine bay. I'll be playing over the next few days to see what works best.

 

AEM does it a little different with 1/8" line and a remote transducer, so the vaccuum tube doesn't have to run all the way to the gauge. Debating where to mount it as inside the car would probably make it last longer than in the engine bay. I'll be playing over the next few days to see what works best.

No, it's pretty much the same thing although the MAP sensor is a little larger. I mounted the MAP sensor near the inner fender by the firewall and routed the wiring harness that plugs into the MAP sensor through the existing hole near the clutch master. I don't think heat is that big of an issue in the rear corners of the engine bay. The brake master and my remote clutch reservoir also blocks heat from the engine and the headers.

 

Oh, nice. My old Autometer I had to run the boost tubing into the A-pillar on my F-250. I might steal your mounting location as I really don't want to extend the wiring harness.

 

What do you guys read at idle? I'm reading -18.9.

 

I don't have stock cams, but after it warms up it's in the 14-15 inhg range. I would expect around 20 inhg on the 5.4s.

 

I don't have stock cams, but after it warms up it's in the 14-15 inhg range. I would expect around 20 inhg on the 5.4s.

Can I borrow some? I am at 9-10 at 1000 rpm idle.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

Cool, thanks John.