Here is another alternative also for about the same price. I got these a while back from Girodisc a company that has been making racing rotors for upper end cars, and I have loved every minute they have been on my car. They are two piece floating rotors that save 5lbs per rotor (fronts and rear).

 

Here is another alternative also for about the same price. I got these a while back from Girodisc a company that has been making racing rotors for upper end cars, and I have loved every minute they have been on my car. They are two piece floating rotors that save 5lbs per rotor (fronts and rear).

Those are beautiful. Where did you purchase them from?

 

Wow,

Those rotors/CCW wheels are a great looking combo! :bigthumb:

 

For sure!

 

Here are a few more pics:

 

Thanks RayMan,

Girodisc is a company on your side of the country. I think they are in Washington. Go to their website www.girodisc.com and find a contact number and give them a call.

I know there are also some other vendors that sell their rotors as well.

 

I have the Stillen cross drilled and slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and Goodridge stainless lines waiting to be put on.

 

Those are pretty sweet gtcpa, but I'm trying to be cheap on this. The Stillens are on sale right now, and that's the route I was kind of leaning, so I'm hoping ElDiablo puts some miles on them and reports back as to how they're holding up. I can do the fronts and rears for 575, Girodisc is about 1500 (with significant weight gains), but this is a street car. In my research, I found a site called brakeperformance.com that I can do them for $300 with a lifetime warranty (2 years against warping). So what I'm thinking is order a set from there for my focus and use it as a test car to see if they're worthy of the 500. Can anyone talk me out of my logic? If you look at them, do you like the black or silver zinc coating?

 

On a side note to that, with the drilled rotors, brakeperformance says all of the right things such as chamfering the holes, but miss one big point. They make no mention of not drilling through the veins. Just one of the other thoughts running through my head, but with a lifetime warranty, can I really go wrong on the Focus?

 

but miss one big point. They make no mention of not drilling through the veins.
can I really go wrong on the Focus?

A phone call will set your mind at ease for the first one. as for can you go wrong experimenting with brakes on anything? I think so.


I 2 am looking for cross drilled and slotted rotors. Time will tell what I settle with. Not so much for the braking as the stock seem ok for the road but My wheels are so open it just don't look right with out them. and I would like to reduce the brake dust by using different pads.

 

I have the Autozone ceramics on the 500 right now, and I've been very happy with them. The stopping power is good, and the wheels are clean. When I order rotors for the Focus, I'm going to order the Hawk ceramics as a test, just to see if there is a difference in feel to the Autozone ones.

 

Well in 24 days I can give you an update and some pictures of the new rotors and pads. I have a 1500 mile road trip planned for the two weeks I am home, so that should be perfect to get an idea as to how they perform.

 

Cool to have two SVT vehicles !

I would think the braking for the SVT Focus would be different than the 2 ton pig GT500, due to the huge weight difference. I would think the GT500 brakes would have to work a little harder and would wear faster.

Stillen has a very good name out there and I don't think you will go wrong with those rotors.

On my wife's Roush, we put Baer decelarators drilled/slotted, and they have held up very nicely. I am not sure if they make their rotors to fit the GT500 front brakes or not.

The weight savings of my rotors (girodisc) is huge (5lbs per rotor) for the fronts and rears, and with the lighter wheels and lighter other parts on my car, I am at 3,720 lbs at the present time from its 3,910 original weight.

 

DBA rotors with Hawk HPS pads. Car stops great, but still get a lot of brake dust on the fronts.

 

Thanks gtcpa, I'm definitely lucky to have two. I got the Focus last December to keep the miles off the Shelby, and it really is a fun little car. What you said is definitely true about the weight difference. I'm going to order the cheapies for the Focus, but when it comes time for the 500, I probably will go to the 2-piece. It would be nice to offset the extra weight of my 20s. I kinda took myself out of the weight game though when I dynamated the car...lol. However, rotational weight is a lot more important than sprung weight. What else did you do to yours to take the weight out?

69b302... First, and most importantly do you have a 69 Boss? I love that car. I guess I can hijack my own thread . Secondly, what pads are you running with the DBAs?

 

What else did you do to yours to take the weight out?

I did what alot of others have done, by putting lighter weight items on the car.

Steeda lightweight radiator support bracket
Dynatech 1-piece aluminum drive shaft
J&M billet control arms
borla mufflers
girodisc rotors
CCW forged billet wheels
cold air intake removing factory air box
removing all fluid from windshield wiper resevoir

oh, and removing these heavy axle weights that we all have that are useless:

 

why put them on the car if there useless and i do believe you. i was just wondering why they would spend the money if they serve no purpose. you would think that with all the cost cutting going on in detroit that they would want to save every penny they could. engineers. go figure.

 

As far as those weights go, my SVT tech told me they are NOT useless...
They are harmonic dampening weights, which keep the axle noise down.
And yes, I did take them off and saw alot more noise (whining and groaning). He re-installed them and the noise went away.

 

You are correct, they are harmonic balancers. However, when I took mine off, I still have the same quiet ride with absolutely no more noise.

I think the noise may vary from car to car.

 

thank you!

 

I took mine off about a year ago with no complaint...not that I could hear anything over my exhaust anyways.

 

The DBA 5000 two-piece slotted rotors cut 8 lbs per wheel on the fronts. The DBA 4000 rear slotted weigh the same as stock.

 

So this is what I did for the Focus as a test for the Shelby. I'm very happy with how it turned out, but the rotors aren't worthy of the Shelby.

Rotors - I got them from brakeperformance.com and they have held up well for the first thousand miles or so. The only thing I don't like about them is that they are drilled through the vanes in some spots, but as a daily driver, I'm not really worried. Besides, they were cheap, so if they go south, I'll upgrade.

Hawk Ceramic Pads - The pads have been great, very clean, very quiet and stop very well. They may be slightly better than the Autozone ceramics I have on the Shelby, but it's hard to tell with the vehicles being so different. I would have stuck with the Autozone pads for the Focus, but they didn't make them for the fronts.

Stainless Lines - I'm very surprised at the difference in brake feel... I thought this was going to be one of those things everyone just said because they wanted to make themselves feel better about wasting their money . I love them, and it will be an upgrade on the Shelby when I do the rotors.

G2 Caliper Paint - Awesome product. Easy to work with and covers great, just be patient and take your time. Makes the brakes look a million times better and I will be painting the rears on the Shelby with it.

Hope this helps some of you guys...

 

Check with Brembo also. They have replacement rotors which are specifically design for the GT500 both front $469.00 and $259.00 rears. They are drilled or slotted and lighter weight. Definately, braided stainless steel lines.

Cheers

Jeff

 

I like this advice. Who would know better than the Manufacturer what rotor would be the best upgrade. For 1K Ford wasn't going to do this for us. Thanks S:clap:tanley54

 

my stillens are rusting bad, thinking about calling them

 

that's just surface rust. i would'nt worry about unless it's going to be parked for very long time...

 

yea I know, it just does'nt look cool. I have to steel woolie it after every wash...pita

 

 

I'd like to know more about those rims if possible. I had a pair of factory rims widened at Weldcraft and have had them in more times than I can count trying to get them to balance. No luck with the Toyo 315's on them. I'm at my wits end and am quite positive its a rim issue although I do have one new tire coming in for the wheel that wants to vibrate at 60 mph and up no matter what we do (the tire store says its fine but will replace the tire to try to help me resolve the issue). The tire shop says the rim does not have a runout problem.
I'm just about ready to spring for a new set of rims in an attempt to eliminate this problem. The car is fine with the factory rims and tires on it.
How does the weight of those rims compare to stock? Price?

 

Hey Detroitboy,

If you are asking about the CCW wheels that I have on my car, I absolutely love them.

The weights on the wheels, I believe are 21lbs and 20lbs, compared to the factory weight wheels of about 28lbs. The CCW's are one piece billet forged aluminum.

I have the Toyo 315's on them, and have never had any unbalanced vibrations from them.

The price on the CCW's are not cheap though (only drawback). Check thier website out. http://www.ccwheel.com/
I believe mine ran about 775 per wheel, but they put the tires on (at very reasonable tire prices) and balanced them before they shipped them to me.