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Discussion Starter #1
Install complete. Sorry for the long writeup, tried to cover everything and be as detailed as possible. Pic's following.

For starters, i'm very impressed with the quality of the product. Aligning and attaching the base mount took very little effort, as they provide a rubber hose to guide positioning (after remving the bump stops). The directions were pretty good, though the pictures were a little challenging since they weren't that clear. This job, if you decide to do it, takes TIME and two people. Mind you, i don't have a stock hood.

Instead of using the screws for the hood pins (which are small, obviously since their sheetmetal screws) and the fact my hood is fiberglass, i used 1/8" x 1/2" length rivets.

Once the base is screwed to the car support (using only two of three screws in the slide hole positions), we attached the double sided tape to the hood pin mounts and placed them in the base mount as required. (The hood pins are a two piece system (mount, and latching pin, more on that later).

The hood pins will rest in the base mount at a slight angle since it's resting against the locking plunger.

Note: After the fact, i thought about having Matt pull and hold the cables for the latches (disengaging them) to allow the pins to rest evenly in the mounts.

Then we closed the hood as directed. Didn't latch the main latch completely, just closed to latch the OEM mechanical lever. Then we pressed down on the hood, giving slight pressure to both sides to ensure the pins seated to the hood (problem here)..

Note: One or two things warranted this. Based soley on my hood, it flexes more than stock, plus i believe i pressed a little more on my side (pass) then Matt did (driver), so now my pin (pass side) does not release properly. More on this shortly. I feel you don't need to press on both sides to ensure inital attachment of the pins to the hood.

Anyway, once you've attached the pins to the hood, open the hood, verify their attached is good. Then close the hood completely to ensure good fitment. You will be doing this alot to verify position. This is a CRITICAL point, again, once you drill into the hood, not much you can do to correct, except possibly rotate the pin a bit and start a new hole. (Which means, starting over on initial attachment, they give you four tape pads).

Attaching the new brackets to the stock latch assy was easy, but questioning, since the pictures aren't that detailed. But we managed.

Then you install both new cables to the latch. (note, freeing up the stock cable from it's mount attachment (along the fender) is recommended. You'll have more movement to work with the latch assy. Slide the new cables through the two small holes of the rectangle bracket (cable housings have hard plastic capped ends which are positioned between the aluminum bracket and rectangle bracket. Then you slightly crimp the two outter tabs of the aluminum bracket inward to help secure the cable housing ends in place. Install the locking bolt/nut (we did this prior to cable attachment).

Remove the slack from the new cables (careful not to disengage the latch plunger) and tighten the cable locking bolt while HOLDING the nut in position. If you turn the nut, vice the bolt, it will pull on the cables, hence disengaging the latch plungers. This is CRITICAL. Looking inside the hole of the base mount you can see how the latch plungers seat in lock position. One side of ours was slight open (pulled from it's normal seat position), so we had to release the tension and do it again. Once you've got that done, have one person pull the release inside the car while the other monitors the latch operation. It will be harder to pull then usual.

Back to the hood..
Once initial alignment is verified, open the hood, then drill and screw in the hood pin base mount. These are countersunk.

Fine tuning alignment...Loosen the two screws in the base mount slightly. Install the three o-rings provided (3 on each hood pin), rolling them to the base (head) of the pins. Screw them into the hood base until they seat against the hood base (not squeezing them, you'll feel slight resistance).

Then close the hood completely. This fine tunes the alignment of the base mount to the hood pin (allowing it to shift left or right). Open the hood, re-tighten the two screws. Then test again. Keep testing until your satisfied.

CAUTION...double and triple check your latch cable slack prior to tightening the cable locking nut/bolt. I highly recommend one of two things here. Either remove the bumper, or the upper grill. If for some reason the latches do not release, you'll play hell getting the hood open. This was our problem because of the pass side pin hanging up. We managed to get ahold of the cable using needle nose pliers, and then i loosened the cable locking nut. We pulled the cable to ensure release of that pin. But that wasnt the problem. The problem stems from the position of the hood pin, it was binding up on the base mount, so while i was pulling the lever in the car, Matt manually released, and actually had to push in on the hood for it to release. Because of the hood pin position, it was hanging up on the forward end in the base mount.

This, i am still dealing with.

Anyway, once you close the hood (completely) after installing the pins with o-rings, pull up on each side of the hood till it stops. You should not be able to pull up, but can clearly feel and hear if it does. If so, then open the hood, and remove one o-ring from each pin, then test again. Do this until your able to pull up on the hood with no movement. When you've achieved this (and only this), and verified numerous times, then drill and stall the final base mount screw. Final base mount positioning is now complete, and there is no turning back, so verify, verify before drilling and installing the final screw.

Recommendations. Its a very good product, and i believe will do as it says. Since my hood is fiberglass and flexes more, i probably wouldn't recommend it, unless you intensify fitment alignment and accuracy. Stock hoods i don't see a problem as they are more rigid.
Darkside..CF i'm sure is more rigid than fiberglass, but you'd want to use the rivets like i did. My fear of the screws, one was they are short (again sheet metal screws) and two somehow being ripped out from force of air against the hood and some build up pressure under it. But again...verifing positioning and not putting extra pressure on the ends is paramount. PROPER positioning of the hood pins is THE key factor. If i had to do it over again, and i will, i'll be just evenly putting downward pressure on the nose of the hood, and not the corners where the pins are.

On my hood, not having the bump stops is allowing the corners to rest further down which also could be attributing to the alignment issue i currently face. I don't see this as a problem on stock hoods. I will update as i continue to try and correct the passenger side pin. If not able, the whole system will get removed.

Patience, testing, verifying over and over and over again is key. Pictures in the next post...please wait on commets and questions till all are up...test mule out...for now..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
during install of the pass side hood latch pin i encountered a problem....

Well i drilled out the rivets for the affected pin (pass side). Then i went through a serious of adjustments tests. First, removed the adj pin and verified all else was still good. Check. Then i pulled the plunger out of the base mount (pic provided) and reinstalled the cover plate. Then i set the hood pin mount in the base mount with new double sided tape. Closed the hood, then opened and it seated in its somewhat new location.

While still held by the tape, i installed the adj pin in the hood mount, closed the hood, and opened. No binding. I then reinstalled the plunger, drilled one hole in the hood and used one of the provided screws vice rivets to hold in place. Closed hood, and opened...so far so good.

Then i drilled and installed another screw, opposite the first. Close, open..good so far. Did the remainng two..BAM..hung up.

To get the hood open, i had to move it outward towards the fender, and it came loose. With that in mind, i tighten the outer screw a bit, and loosened the inner ones the same amount. Did the hood test again..same freakin thing. Did it one more time...presto..came open.

I determined that by tightening the screws it obviously changed the angle of the pin causing it to hang up..this time on the plunger. I further noticed that that the flat area of the hood in which the hood mount is, is not as even as the other side, hence causing the angle shift.

I also went out and bought two additional hood stops, trimed them a little and fitted them into the spare fender holes on both sides to give more support to the hood while closed. Worked well, and had no movement up or down.

So with all that, i'd say for those with stock hoods...enjoy it, i don't believe you'll have problems. Those with other hoods, FG, CF, or other (especially if they flex more) IMO i would not use this system.

The true test will be during riding with movement and flexing of the car. That comes later after the rotor and suspension jobs coming up next. If after all that, and this problem arises..it will come off. I'll keep you posted.....



 

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Install complete. Sorry for the long writeup, tried to cover everything and be as detailed as possible. Pic's following.

For starters, i'm very impressed with the quality of the product. Aligning and attaching the base mount took very little effort, as they provide a rubber hose to guide positioning (after remving the bump stops). The directions were pretty good, though the pictures were a little challenging since they weren't that clear. This job, if you decide to do it, takes TIME and two people. Mind you, i don't have a stock hood.

Instead of using the screws for the hood pins (which are small, obviously since their sheetmetal screws) and the fact my hood is fiberglass, i used 1/8" x 1/2" length rivets.

Once the base is screwed to the car support (using only two of three screws in the slide hole positions), we attached the double sided tape to the hood pin mounts and placed them in the base mount as required. (The hood pins are a two piece system (mount, and latching pin, more on that later).

The hood pins will rest in the base mount at a slight angle since it's resting against the locking plunger.

Note: After the fact, i thought about having Matt pull and hold the cables for the latches (disengaging them) to allow the pins to rest evenly in the mounts.

Then we closed the hood as directed. Didn't latch the main latch completely, just closed to latch the OEM mechanical lever. Then we pressed down on the hood, giving slight pressure to both sides to ensure the pins seated to the hood (problem here)..

Note: One or two things warranted this. Based soley on my hood, it flexes more than stock, plus i believe i pressed a little more on my side (pass) then Matt did (driver), so now my pin (pass side) does not release properly. More on this shortly. I feel you don't need to press on both sides to ensure inital attachment of the pins to the hood.

Anyway, once you've attached the pins to the hood, open the hood, verify their attached is good. Then close the hood completely to ensure good fitment. You will be doing this alot to verify position. This is a CRITICAL point, again, once you drill into the hood, not much you can do to correct, except possibly rotate the pin a bit and start a new hole. (Which means, starting over on initial attachment, they give you four tape pads).

Attaching the new brackets to the stock latch assy was easy, but questioning, since the pictures aren't that detailed. But we managed.

Then you install both new cables to the latch. (note, freeing up the stock cable from it's mount attachment (along the fender) is recommended. You'll have more movement to work with the latch assy. Slide the new cables through the two small holes of the rectangle bracket (cable housings have hard plastic capped ends which are positioned between the aluminum bracket and rectangle bracket. Then you slightly crimp the two outter tabs of the aluminum bracket inward to help secure the cable housing ends in place. Install the locking bolt/nut (we did this prior to cable attachment).

Remove the slack from the new cables (careful not to disengage the latch plunger) and tighten the cable locking bolt while HOLDING the nut in position. If you turn the nut, vice the bolt, it will pull on the cables, hence disengaging the latch plungers. This is CRITICAL. Looking inside the hole of the base mount you can see how the latch plungers seat in lock position. One side of ours was slight open (pulled from it's normal seat position), so we had to release the tension and do it again. Once you've got that done, have one person pull the release inside the car while the other monitors the latch operation. It will be harder to pull then usual.

Back to the hood..
Once initial alignment is verified, open the hood, then drill and screw in the hood pin base mount. These are countersunk.

Fine tuning alignment...Loosen the two screws in the base mount slightly. Install the three o-rings provided (3 on each hood pin), rolling them to the base (head) of the pins. Screw them into the hood base until they seat against the hood base (not squeezing them, you'll feel slight resistance).

Then close the hood completely. This fine tunes the alignment of the base mount to the hood pin (allowing it to shift left or right). Open the hood, re-tighten the two screws. Then test again. Keep testing until your satisfied.

CAUTION...double and triple check your latch cable slack prior to tightening the cable locking nut/bolt. I highly recommend one of two things here. Either remove the bumper, or the upper grill. If for some reason the latches do not release, you'll play hell getting the hood open. This was our problem because of the pass side pin hanging up. We managed to get ahold of the cable using needle nose pliers, and then i loosened the cable locking nut. We pulled the cable to ensure release of that pin. But that wasnt the problem. The problem stems from the position of the hood pin, it was binding up on the base mount, so while i was pulling the lever in the car, Matt manually released, and actually had to push in on the hood for it to release. Because of the hood pin position, it was hanging up on the forward end in the base mount.

This, i am still dealing with.

Anyway, once you close the hood (completely) after installing the pins with o-rings, pull up on each side of the hood till it stops. You should not be able to pull up, but can clearly feel and hear if it does. If so, then open the hood, and remove one o-ring from each pin, then test again. Do this until your able to pull up on the hood with no movement. When you've achieved this (and only this), and verified numerous times, then drill and stall the final base mount screw. Final base mount positioning is now complete, and there is no turning back, so verify, verify before drilling and installing the final screw.

Recommendations. Its a very good product, and i believe will do as it says. Since my hood is fiberglass and flexes more, i probably wouldn't recommend it, unless you intensify fitment alignment and accuracy. Stock hoods i don't see a problem as they are more rigid.
Darkside..CF i'm sure is more rigid than fiberglass, but you'd want to use the rivets like i did. My fear of the screws, one was they are short (again sheet metal screws) and two somehow being ripped out from force of air against the hood and some build up pressure under it. But again...verifing positioning and not putting extra pressure on the ends is paramount. PROPER positioning of the hood pins is THE key factor. If i had to do it over again, and i will, i'll be just evenly putting downward pressure on the nose of the hood, and not the corners where the pins are.

On my hood, not having the bump stops is allowing the corners to rest further down which also could be attributing to the alignment issue i currently face. I don't see this as a problem on stock hoods. I will update as i continue to try and correct the passenger side pin. If not able, the whole system will get removed.

Patience, testing, verifying over and over and over again is key. Pictures in the next post...please wait on commets and questions till all are up...test mule out...for now..

Keith I didn't know your fingers could type that much. Nice job.:rofl:
 

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I just installed the same system on my car over the weekend. I was working alone so I made way to many trips back and forth to release the hood to check the alignment. I too found the pictures and instruction on assembling the brackets to the hood latch mechanism sketchy at best. I didn't have any major problems with the install but I too ran into the alignment issue but mine was on the driver's side. I loosened the two screws holding the catch mechanism down and realigned it somewhat and it worked much better. I still can't get the pin length itself adjusted to my liking. It will either not latch everytime or latch everytime but have a little bit of freeplay when closed. My hood is carbon fiber with a fiberglass frame and is very flexible which I am sure contributes to the latching problems. I did use the provided sheet metal screws in the pins on the hood and figure if they rip out that the main latch will still hold the hood in place until I can make any repairs. So far the screws seem to be holding the pins very well but if I notice them loosening up over time then I can drill them out and install rivets. I wonder if this system will actually start working better with time as the pins wear their own groves in the recievers. I have already noticed small aluminum shavings on the radiator supports were the pins have been rubbing the inside of the bore. I have yet to drive the car as the salt is still on the roads here in Ohio. I also installed the Shelby shifter this weekend and must say it is a damn nice unit although overpriced. It works very smoothly but the 3rd gear stop is next to impossible to set correctly as the shifter linkage is right in the way of the adjustment screw.

Have a good day everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just installed the same system on my car over the weekend. I was working alone so I made way to many trips back and forth to release the hood to check the alignment. I too found the pictures and instruction on assembling the brackets to the hood latch mechanism sketchy at best. I didn't have any major problems with the install but I too ran into the alignment issue but mine was on the driver's side. I loosened the two screws holding the catch mechanism down and realigned it somewhat and it worked much better. I still can't get the pin length itself adjusted to my liking. It will either not latch everytime or latch everytime but have a little bit of freeplay when closed. My hood is carbon fiber with a fiberglass frame and is very flexible which I am sure contributes to the latching problems. I did use the provided sheet metal screws in the pins on the hood and figure if they rip out that the main latch will still hold the hood in place until I can make any repairs. So far the screws seem to be holding the pins very well but if I notice them loosening up over time then I can drill them out and install rivets. I wonder if this system will actually start working better with time as the pins wear their own groves in the recievers. I have already noticed small aluminum shavings on the radiator supports were the pins have been rubbing the inside of the bore. I have yet to drive the car as the salt is still on the roads here in Ohio. I also installed the Shelby shifter this weekend and must say it is a damn nice unit although overpriced. It works very smoothly but the 3rd gear stop is next to impossible to set correctly as the shifter linkage is right in the way of the adjustment screw.

Have a good day everyone.
try using the additional bump stops i listed in post 4. it'll help with hood deflection. and re-adj the pins. im using two of the o-rings, and theres no movement.
 
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