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Discussion Starter #1
I had a 3.73 installed on my gt500 and my wheel hop is noticably worse. Has anyone installed the "Steeda Stop The Hop Pak" which is the LCA and fixed upper, or the "Roush Wheel Hop Reduction Kit" which is just THE upper trailing arm. Both of these kits are $300.
 

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I have only the steeda upper control arm and bracket, still rolling on the stock LCA's at ~630rwhp and I do not experience wheel hop.
 

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are you lowered rl?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys, Tuesday I ordered both the upper and lower control arms from Steeda. I won't let you know until spring because I'm in northern Ill with about a foot of that white stuff.
 

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I had a 3.73 installed on my gt500 and my wheel hop is noticably worse. Has anyone installed the "Steeda Stop The Hop Pak" which is the LCA and fixed upper, or the "Roush Wheel Hop Reduction Kit" which is just THE upper trailing arm. Both of these kits are $300.
Steeda will tell you that the Stop The Hop Pak won't handle the GT500 if you do any mods whatsoever (power increases).


Look at the J&M adjustable upper and their lower control arms.

www.hotpart.com

bj
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When I ordered the Steeda upper and lower control arms, I mentioned I owned a gt500 and the salesman said nothing about the application. These are now installed (5 hours later) with good fit and great looks. Like I said before I will not be trying them out until the snow is gone in the spring, and my insurance is back on.
 

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When I ordered the Steeda upper and lower control arms, I mentioned I owned a gt500 and the salesman said nothing about the application. These are now installed (5 hours later) with good fit and great looks. Like I said before I will not be trying them out until the snow is gone in the spring, and my insurance is back on.
They've changed their tune.....about 180 degrees.
 

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They have different arms bj, some of them are capable, but the ones that came in the stop the hop pack were the cheap ones that probably wouldn't be much better than stock. They actually recommend the billet ones with spherical bushings for the 500s, but I haven't decided which route I will go. I haven't heard anyone say anything bad about any of them, so I guess it's kinda the "anything is better than stock" mantra.
 

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Shoot me a PM and I'll give you the info on the shop that installed their UCA in my convertible. My car isn't the most powerful here, but was dyno'd at 575+rwhp. All it does is plant and go, or leave 2 black strips of rubber to 70mph depending on when I jump on the throttle.

I have the FRPP Handling Pack and the UCA. I honestly do not know which brand of UCA they use, but I know what I've got works. No wheelhop whatsoever.
 

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They have different arms bj, some of them are capable, but the ones that came in the stop the hop pack were the cheap ones that probably wouldn't be much better than stock. They actually recommend the billet ones with spherical bushings for the 500s, but I haven't decided which route I will go. I haven't heard anyone say anything bad about any of them, so I guess it's kinda the "anything is better than stock" mantra.
Yeah...my point exactly. Stop The Hop doesn't work. I used the Steeda Comp upper and it sounded like it was ripping the ass out of my car. Handled horribly. OK if you ONLY go in a straight line and you're deaf.

Swapped it out for a BMR with poly bushings. Kept them for about a year. I spoke with Brian at Hotpart about the design of their J&M and gave it a try. Superior in every way to the BMR. I've recommended them to a number of folks. I swapped out my BMR lowers due to failed bushings and went to the J&M polished billet. They certainly take some work to keep clean but again, from a performance standpoint, superior.

Steeda makes some great stuff. I just haven't found their 3-link components to be some of them. Their torque box braces and adjustable panhard rod work great but the finish is crap on both (I have both on my car).

bj
 

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Good to know you tried the Steeda upper. I had the G-trac stage 3 in my 98 and it stuck like a mother...but that was a different setup all together. I've been generally happy with Steeda's stuff, but sometimes they throw a turd in the group. In this case it looks like I'll be trying the J&M stuff.
 

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Yeah...my point exactly. Stop The Hop doesn't work. I used the Steeda Comp upper and it sounded like it was ripping the ass out of my car. Handled horribly. OK if you ONLY go in a straight line and you're deaf.

Swapped it out for a BMR with poly bushings. Kept them for about a year. I spoke with Brian at Hotpart about the design of their J&M and gave it a try. Superior in every way to the BMR. I've recommended them to a number of folks. I swapped out my BMR lowers due to failed bushings and went to the J&M polished billet. They certainly take some work to keep clean but again, from a performance standpoint, superior.

Steeda makes some great stuff. I just haven't found their 3-link components to be some of them. Their torque box braces and adjustable panhard rod work great but the finish is crap on both (I have both on my car).

bj

Which of the Upper Control arms did you go with J&M sells several there on the GT500 UCA page. Wondering if its better to have an adjustable piece versus a solid component.

TD
 

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Which of the Upper Control arms did you go with J&M sells several there on the GT500 UCA page. Wondering if its better to have an adjustable piece versus a solid component.

TD
Adjustable. You need that to be able to tweak your pinion angle.


I have the 23985.....NOT the extreme race.

bj
 

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Adjustable. You need that to be able to tweak your pinion angle.


I have the 23985.....NOT the extreme race.

bj
Hmm, other than the price, was there any reason you didn't get the extreme race? Looks impressively sturdy
 

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Hmm, other than the price, was there any reason you didn't get the extreme race? Looks impressively sturdy
It depends on how much noise/harshness/vibration you want to deal with. The more direct/firm....the more NHV. The Steeda comp sounded like I was running across a washboard. You have to remember than you're shifting weight to the rear assembly and since it can't squat as much with a direct/stiff connection it drives the wheel/tires even harder into the surface. Unless you're racing it almost daily....don't.

bj
 

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Your pinion angle depends other factors. With an unlowered car, most people find a -1* to work, but again it depends. Oddly enough, I'm running a POSITIVE angle on mine right now. Again, consider all the factors....and you'll probably experiment some.


bj
 

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With an unlowered car, most people find a -1* to work, but again it depends. Oddly enough, I'm running a POSITIVE angle on mine right now.
I just wanted to compare notes. I have the Steeda comp upper and my experience has been very different from yours.
I'm also using the most forward mounting hole on the Steeda mount if that matters.
On my lowered car the pinion angle has moved from +2* to -1* in 1* increments to improve traction. With each change, traction improved but at no time have I experienced wheel hop.

Not wishing to start a product debate, just curious as to how I somehow solved the wheel hop issue and others are not as fortunate.
 
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