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VMP GEN II SUPERCHARGER INSTALLATION GUIDE rev 4/15
Thank you for your purchase of the most powerful TVS supercharger in the world, the VMP GEN II 2.3L TVS Supercharger. This guide serves as a global installation document. Your specific car may have present modifications that can cause variance from this guide. If you have questions, please call us at (321) 206-3969 or email us at [email protected] after hours. We will do our best to assist in a timely manner.
This installation is intended for someone with average mechanical skills (you have changed spark plugs or brake pads on your car and you could find and change a fuel filter, if needed). If you feel this is beyond your level of expertise, please consult us to recommend a local performance shop for a bid to do the work. We are available to them as a tech resource.
Keep in mind that some sizes of nuts, bolts, etc may vary from year to year.
Suggested tools:
3/8" drive ratchet- 8 to 12 inches long
6mm hex bit socket or t-handle for rear s/c bolt
5/16 or 8mm socket with long extension or long t-handle for throttle body bolts
8mm socket/wrench for cold air clamps and fuel rails
10mm deep socket for EGR bolts and CAI shield to body bolt
13mm socket for s/c bolts
Torque wrench
24” breaker bar (if needed, to loosen the belt via the tensioner)
Needle nose pliers (to loosen clamp for 'dirty air' line at back of s/c)
Flashlight
3/8” drive extension (short one, to use with 3/8" drive to loosen s/c belt)
Magnetic retrieval tool
Phillips screwdriver
Flat head screwdriver
Paper towels/rags

WORK ON A COMPLETELY COLD CAR OTHERWISE YOU CAN BURN YOURSELF AND YOU WILL HAVE TO DEAL WITH RESIDUAL FUEL PRESSURES IN THE RAILS AND INJECTORS. SAFETY GLASSES AND GLOVES ARE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
1. Disconnect the positive and negative terminals before you begin.
2. Using an 8mm socket, loosen the clamp for the cold air at the throttle body. Next, remove the bolt from the "bucket" or housing for the filter (probably a 10mm). Unclip both air lines from the tube. Disconnect the mass air connection near the filter by first pulling back the red lock clip then squeezing the tab. Remove cold air and set aside.
3. Unclip the two electrical connections from the throttle body. Remove the throttle body.
4. Disconnect boost line(s) from the elbow of the blower. Unbolt and remove the factory elbow. Disconnect the two lines from the boost bypass canister (the small, black canister with the silver rod through it). Carefully remove the gasket that goes between the elbow and the throttle body as you'll be reusing it.
5. Unclip the connector from the driver's side fuel rail at the driver's side of the supercharger.
6. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, squeeze the clamp and slide the "dirty air" hose off the 90* fitting at the rear of the supercharger.
7. Use an 8mm socket to remove both bolts from the radiator reservoir (passenger side). This will allow you to easily get a ratchet drive to the belt tensioner. Use the ratchet and a short 3/8" extension to go into the opening of the tensioner (the arm at 10 o'clock from the crank damper). If you are using a Thump Racing tensioner, you will need a 1/2" extension for this process. Push the drive clockwise-toward the driver's side fender- to release belt tension and slide the belt off the supercharger pulley. We recommend using a helper for this process and using a bungee or wire tie to keep tension on the belt while it's off the main pulley. This will keep you from needing to re-route the belt should it accidently fall out of place. (You're welcome!)
8. Remove the boost line from the front of the supercharger and at the fuel pressure sensor on the passenger side fuel rail and set it aside. Remove the electrical connection at the fuel pressure sensor as well. This is a good time to also unclip each of the 4 fuel injector connections from the passenger side. Unless you are changing injectors, you won't need to unhook the driver's side connectors.
9. Disconnect the electrical connection from the EGR (pass side, rear of blower). Using a 10mm socket, remove the two bolts from the EGR. BE CAREFUL AS IT CAN BE EXTREMELY HOT! There is a small, metal gasket between the EGR and the blower. Carefully remove it and set it aside as it will be reused. You should be able to move the EGR unit enough to get to the lower blower bolts and the rear fuel rail bolts, but if not you can use an adjustable wrench to break free the fitting between the EGR head unit and the EGR pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold/headers. It's the fitting at the EGR, not the one on the exhaust.
10. Using a 13mm socket and extension, loosen and remove all supercharger bolts and set them aside. NOTE: YOU WILL NOT USE ALL OF THE BOLTS WITH THE GEN II SO YOU WILL HAVE EXTRAS WHEN YOU ARE DONE.
11. HAVE PAPER TOWEL READY AND WORK IN A VENTILATED AREA FOR THIS STEP. Using an 8mm socket, loosen the two bolts holding down the passenger side fuel rail. With your hands on the rail, gently rotate (circular motion) the rail while pulling upward to remove the injectors and rail in one unit. If you pull the rail off the injector you'll get fuel spray so push the rail back down to re-seat the injector into it and try again. Once you have the rail and injectors off as one unit, twist the crossover line so you can position the fuel rail to the driver's side and out of your way for the time being. If you're removing both rails and replacing the injectors, you can remove the driver's side once you have removed the blower from the engine.
12. With the help of an assistant (or some really healthy biceps), lift the supercharger off the engine in a vertical motion. Be sure you are free of all lines (boost and otherwise). Set the factory blower on a bench or other flat surface and turn it over. You'll see two small dowels in the base. Remove them with needle nose pliers and tap them into place in your VMP GEN II TVS. The base is machined so they can only go into the same spots as the factory ones. At this time, visually inspect the rubber gasket on the manifold (where the blower sits). It should be in one piece and free of nicks and cuts. You'll reuse it.
13. IMPORTANT STEP! If you're replacing fuel injectors and have removed both rails, you MUST replace the driver's side fuel rail now, before you place the blower on the engine. Put them in place and torque the bolts on both ends. It is also a good idea to go ahead and attach the two hoses to the boost bypass canister on the GEN II at this time as it will be more difficult to do once the blower is in place. Leave the passenger side fuel rail free at this time.
14. With the assistance of a helper, gently lower the VMP GEN II TVS into place while moving all hoses and connections out of the way. When seated correctly, it will sit on the two dowels and be fully flush with the base. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR HOSES AND ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS.
15. Insert all of the supercharger bolts into the mounting holes. You will use the hex bolt that we provided for the hole at the back of the blower. Fully tighten them all now, using a crisscross, front to back pattern and torque to Ford specs (see below). If you don't have a torque wrench, just tighten them up by hand. This isn't a competition so you don't have to "gorilla" it.
16. Replace the EGR by reversing the process you used to remove it. You'll find it easiest to place the small metal gasket against the EGR and run the bolts partially through the gasket before trying to thread the bolts into the blower. Remember to hook up the electrical connection and tighten the pipe connection if you loosened it earlier.
17. Slide the "dirty air" line (rear of blower) back onto the 90* elbow. Make sure both connections are on the boost bypass canister. Replace the boost line at the front of the blower to the passenger side fuel rail pressure sensor. Re-attach the pressure sensor electrical connection while you are there.
18. Now is the time to place your selected VMP GEN II TVS pulley onto the shaft. The use of a little blue Loctite is optional here. DON'T use red Loctite! Hand thread them, making sure the pulley is flat against the hub. Once on, tighten the pulley in a crisscross pattern with a hex tool. There is not set torque spec for this operation. Make them snug but do not over-tighten them. Assure that your belt routing has not changed and that you are ready to place it back onto the blower. When ready, rotate the ratchet allowing slack in the belt and have a helper slide the belt over the pulley, making sure the ribs and belt are aligned. You can see this, it will be obvious if they're not. Remember to remove the ratchet/drive from the tensioner.
19. Double check that all connections are back in place. Replace the reservoir.
20. Insert the throttle body gasket into the groove on the blower inlet. Replace throttle body, connections and the booster connections at the back of the blower (the 90* tube). On 11+ cars, you'll use the two bolts and spacers provided to attach your evap valve in the open hole in the blower. On earlier cars you'll insert the aluminum bushing/90* assembly into this hole with a little red Loctite. If it's easier and gives you more room you can do this part before installing the throttle body.
21. Replace cold air system making sure the silicone sleeve is completely around the mouth of the throttle body (including the underside). Replace all connections, air and electrical.
22. Double check the engine bay for connections, tools, etc and when you're satisfied with your work, re-attach the battery, start the car and have a helper look for belt alignment and any fuel leaks at the injectors.
23. Congratulations! You've just installed the world's most powerful TVS supercharger. The VMP GEN II TVS. Enjoy your newfound power and torque and please share your experience with friends...on our Facebook page...and on internet forums. We trust your experience with VMP will be outstanding. If it is anything less, please contact us and we'll make it right. Thanks for choosing VMP for your high performance project.







Below:
Boost and electrical connections to the passenger side fuel rail pressure sensor.
"Dirty air" connection at back of blowers.
EGR, bolts, connection.
Stock elbow with gasket (re-use) and all factory connections shown.
Ford factory torque specs.
Contact info.





Ford Factory Torque Specs
EGR module 18 ft lbs
Throttle body 89 in lbs
Fuel rail bolts 89 in lbs
Supercharger bolts 20 ft lbs

Technical assistance
(321) 206-9369 Mon-Thur 9a-12noon, 1p-5p. Friday 9a-12noon, 1p-2p
Email: [email protected] Please provide your name, order number, year and type of car, and fully describe the issue you're having. We will assist you as soon as possible with a written response.
 

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I see no mention of beer breaks listed. Makes me question the entire procedure.
 

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I just wrote all this crap for YOU! :)
and definitely me, thanks BJ...putting this writeup to the test tomorrow, weather and patience pending. ha.
 

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Bj I have to say your instructions were tremendous...not that I expected any less. I have nothing to even add or edit. Some stuff is figure it out on the fly but doable. did the entire thing myself. Awesome job bj...thanks again.
 

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Bj I have to say your instructions were tremendous...not that I expected any less. I have nothing to even add or edit. Some stuff is figure it out on the fly but doable. did the entire thing myself. Awesome job bj...thanks again.
Congrats! It took me a few hours with my son helping. I labeled everything good, & took a few pics for reference. Plus.. taking care not to scratch the paint.
You'll like the new power.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Bj I have to say your instructions were tremendous...not that I expected any less. I have nothing to even add or edit. Some stuff is figure it out on the fly but doable. did the entire thing myself. Awesome job bj...thanks again.
Cool Congrats.

bj
 

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Congrats! It took me a few hours with my son helping. I labeled everything good, & took a few pics for reference. Plus.. taking care not to scratch the paint.
You'll like the new power.:)
Thanks Doug...the labeling was really helpful, no doubt. The care not to scratch the paint was definitely stressful...I used some bath towels and one motorcraft fender cover that was crappy and probably did s ratchet when leaned on, but I kept that to a minimum hopefully...I found that bending at the knees and resting on my knees against my wheels was helpful.
 

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quick question, albeit probably a dumb one- I was reading somewhere that oil needed to be added to their vmp supercharger (did not specify whether it was gen 2 or 1 or whatever). I also read somewhere that it is delivered with oil already in it? Someone else said there is no oil needed for superchargers. Gotta love the internet and all the brainiacs who post on it.

So now I have read enough to make me doubt myself- I assume nothing needs to be done other than to bolt it on with no fluids needed? True or False? I plan to finish burning off my winter fuel tomorrow afternoon, refuel with fresh, drive it around a little bit, then open her up and see what's what...and I prefer not to ask after the fact. Maybe this will help alleviate any confusion for someone else that is caused by doing too much online reading.

Thanks!
 
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