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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, here is my second go at this thread since the first attempt was a total loss when I submitted it on my iPad. (&%$#@$%!!!!!)

First off, a big thank you to my good friend Joe Hardage for coming down to TX to help with the install. He did most of the wiring and a good chunk of the plumbing. He will chime in later with more info on the install.

Another thank you to BJ and VMP for providing a great product at a great price.

Now for the details:

Some helpful resourses:

Video VMP did showing install on a 2013: (very helpful)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZStkVMLUO4&desktop_uri=/watch?v=PZStkVMLUO4&app=desktop

AFCO dual fan HE install instructions: (2007-2009 first 1/2 2010+ second 1/2)

http://www.vmp-tvs.com/justin/instructions/Afco 80280pro.pdf

VMP TVS and Dual fan HE install instructions: (HE on page 26)

http://www.vmp-tvs.com/justin/instructions/VMP-5L TVS Kit Revised 9-13.pdf

Preinstall thread (Goose and Hardage TX fun!:

http://www.fordgt500.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53050&highlight=Goose+hardage+tx

OK, here we go:

1. Get the car in the air: (instructions said to remove front tires – not necessary) Also, disconnect the battery!



2. Remove radiator cover

3. Remove lower engine splash guard. This is the large plastic piece aft of the splitter. The splitter stays attached to the front clip.

4. Remove 6 screws from the front side of the front wheel well bottoms. (There is some bending of plastic to get the front facia removed around these parts)

5. Unclip the 3 electrical connectors from each side of the front clip. (fog lights, turn signals and parking lamps.

Also unhook ambient temp sensor from front clip:



6. Grab corners of the bumper next to the wheel well and pull outwards to unsnap the clips retaining the bumper (the scary part):



7. Remove 2 bolts at the top/front holding your front clip on.

8. Lift entire front clip (including splitter) up and forward - off of the vertical guide pins at the front/top. Set the entire unit aside. It is stable on the splitter:



9. Grab the foam bumper cover and pull straight out to free the 4 plastic clips:



10. Drain the coolant from the heat exchanger by removing the lower hose on the passenger side:


Disassembly took about 1+15 taking our time and hurling jokes and insults at each other.
 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So, with dis-assembly done so quickly, you would think we would have the whole car done within a few hours... Well, we did some playing and parts runs which ate up some time. How long did it take us? Who knows. We worked on the car on and off throughout the day and had it 99% done in one day leaving only a switch to mount/wire the second day... More on that later.

Pics of the playing:





OK, this one came later when it was done:



Back to work!

11. Unhook the pump's electrical connection

12. Remove 2 bolts and 3 snaps that hold the plastic grill mount and radiator duct. Remove these components.



13. Remove the 3-4 nuts that secure the HE to the bumper (my car had 3).

14. Remove the bolts that hold the HE to the bumper (these are threaded into the bumper).

15. Lift the HE, unclip the brackets from the bumper then lower the HE out the bottom.

16. Remove the pump and any hoses connected to it.

Gratuitous picture:

Why you want one of these beasts:



17. Instructions called for removing intake tube and filter. We didn't need to do this and skipped it.

At this point Joe worked on plumbing while I removed the fans from the HE, sprayed the HE down with denatured alcohol, primed and painted the HE with high heat primer and paint. I then used a SHELBY stencil (courtesy of Joe) and painted a red "SHELBY" with more high heat paint:







18. Remove hose that connected the coolant reservoir to the pump. Remove the nylon sheath from the hose and place on the new hose.

19. Connect supplied hose with old sheath to the coolant reservoir and run hose down to where the pump will be (cut the 1 long supplied hose to fit).

20. Install the 4 supplied HE mounting bolts/washers. Screw them in so the protrude about 1/4" on the opposite side.

21. Use WD-40 to lubricate rubber mount on pump to rotate the pump so the outlet is facing forward on the car. Use the pump relocation bracket to mount the pump on the driver's side.

22. Connect pump inlet hose (that came from reservoir) to the bottom line on the pump. We ended up using the OEM 90 degree hose and bought a coupling to connect it to the new hose (this was to prevent kinking the hose):





 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
23. Snap the 4 blue rubber grommets into the HE and insert the metal bushings.

We had to trim some plastic for the new HE:





24. Slide the HE up from the bottom and secure with the 4 mounting bolts. Finish threading the bolts completely and use washers and nylock nuts.

25. Reinstall plastic grille mount and radiator duct. Directions said to trim slightly. We didn't have to.

26. Reattach factory hose to lower HE outlet and attach hose (cut to length) between pump outlet and HE inlet. Lay the hose on top of the metal bumper. The foam will hold it in position on the driver's side.





27. Mount the dual-fan relays below passenger side headlight:



28. Run supply wires and fuse holders towards the fuse box on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

29. Attach both red wires from the fuse holders to the main power distribution of the fuse box - Back left (driver's side) corner of the fuse box.

30. Remainder of the harness is routed from the relays, to the pump.

31. Connect the ground cables to bolt on the radiator support where 2 factory ground wires are attached. The weatherpack connectors can be connected to the fans at this point.
 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The orange wire is the wire that sends the "turn on fans" signal. If you want to be able to control your fans with a switch, you need to cut the orange wire and run a loop of wire to where the switch will be. We cut the orange wire and spliced in a long wire. We ran this through the firewall in a grommet on the driver's side by the brake booster. We left the added wire uncut to check the system before adding the variable of a switch. Here's Joe running the wires:



There is no splicing of wires with the VMP unit. It is plug and play. The only splicing is if you want to have a switch to be able to turn the fans off during hwy cruising.

32. After all electrical connections are complete (don't forget to reconnect the battery!), and all plumbing connections secure, refill the coolant. We used 50/50 Ford Orange with distilled water.

33. Remove air from the system and keep filling as the level lowers. To remove air from the system, remove the pump relay and make a jumper to jump the pump (which also turns on the fans):

Jumper:



Joe jumping something legal this time:



Joe's "How to jump your HE" thread:


Once the pump and fans are verified working and all the air is removed with the coolant level is set to satisfaction, proceed:

34. Reinstall foam bumper pad. Push hose down into metal bumper and use the foam to hold it in place:

 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
35. Reinstall front clip. Lift it up and over the vertical guide pins and let it hang there while you proceed:



36. Connect lights and ambient air sensor.

37. Reinstall 6 screws inside front wheel well. You will need to pry plastic to get this correct.

When front clip is in position, the pump rests against the driver's side fog light assembly:



38. Reinstall splash guard

39. Optional: The switch... Without a switch, the fans will run continuously. A switch can be used to turn fans off during hwy cruising if desired. I didn't want to drill into my dash anywhere, so the least intrusive place I could find was a small piece of plastic that was part of a bracket for a sensor. I used my drill to make a small hole and then a Dremmel to make a 1/2" hole. Any interrupting switch will work - I chose a blue one that can be grounded for a light (haven't done that yet). The switch can be easily reached with my right hand and works as advertised, turning the fans off and on as desired:





Well, that's it! The install was 100% successful! We had a few hiccups along the way, but nothing major and it went much more smoothly than I expected.

One more set of pictures... After the install, we took the car out for some "spirited" driving. Joe drove home on the rev limiter and came out of boost just in time so we didn't hit my garage. We pulled in and used my IR temp reader and here were the temps we saw:

Engine coolant:



HE coolant:



And they lived happily ever after. The end!
 

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2013 Shelby GT500 Coupe, Triple Black
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2010 Shelby GT500 Kona Blue/Silver stripes
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Out of curiosity, did you take coolant temps with the OE heat exchanger installed?
 

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Great write up as usual Tim. Yet another "how to" thread in order to make the rest of our lives a bit easier! Thank you both.
 

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You got instructions with your HE?!
Maybe that's why I had some trouble...
Good write-up.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Discussion Starter #12
Out of curiosity, did you take coolant temps with the OE heat exchanger installed?
No, never did.

The "instructions" are the AFCO instructions, which covers most of it.
 

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My man!! Great how to. I don't need the mod, but I did build a set of those ramps today! My son actually did, I just held the boards.
If ever I get thrown to the wilderness, I want a bottle of fine Bourbon, my favorite knife, my favorite firearm, & my favorite pilot! Well done!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Goose-n-Hardage. Great work. Now you will be doing this at SF for everyone, right? :)
Suuuuuure! We'll do the quickie mod. It will be a heat exchanger duct taped to the front of the car with a pull chain run to the driver's window to turn off the fans.
 

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I'm curious as to why the pump was moved. Is it a clearance issue with the larger heat exchanger? The AFCO unit still locates the pump in the original location, but it is tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm curious as to why the pump was moved. Is it a clearance issue with the larger heat exchanger? The AFCO unit still locates the pump in the original location, but it is tight.
The VMP unit is bigger. It is huge! The directions called for it to be moved, so we moved it. I'm assuming it wouldn't fit in its original location.
 

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I notice the heat exchanger doesn't have provision for the mounts too. I'm going to have to look into the relocation kit if I go with the larger pump from the '13.
 
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