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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was wondering what are the the favored suspension upgrades.

LCA/UCA/Panhard Rods some talk of Watts links.. Adjustable Shocks/ Coil-overs/stiffer springs, then there are the kits such as FRPP handling packages, and so on... options seem to be endless.

Mainly, I am interested in elimination of ALL wheel hop (#1 priority), less body roll, better traction, and reducing front-end dive (don't want to scrape or knock off the front spoiler any more than its already seen). Don't really want to lower the car so much that it scrapes on every parking lot bumper against the front spoiler. As far as ride comfort, if I was interested in ride comfort, I'd be driving a different car.

What is the consensus?


TD
 

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I had just the UCA, LCA, and panhard rod, and had zero wheel hop. I got the Handling Pack and adjustable panhard rod, which decreased the body roll and front end dive. Yes, my car is low, but I haven't bashed the chin spoiler yet. (Watch, I'll go out tomorrow and crack it because I jinxed it by saying that) The damper stiffness is adjustable, so you can get a relatively soft ride, if you want.

The only difference I would make, if I were to do everything again, would be to get a Watts Link in place of the adjustable panhard. But for a street ride, I'm pretty happy with where I am now.
 

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I bought the Ultimate Lowering Package from Evolution

FRPP Springs
Evo LCAs
BMR Adjustable UCA
Evo Adjustable Panhard Bar & Brace
S&W 3-Point Torque Box Braces
Steeda Upper Strut Mounts

I also added the Tokico D-Spec Shocks & Struts.

I'm extremely satisfied with the result. Zero wheel hop and handles great. The FRPP springs lowered it about 1.5", but it is not excessively low. Still very drivable. I don't rub when entering my driveway, but it's VERY close. I have the shocks adjusted to the mid-point. It rides a bit rougher than stock, but still very comfortable.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I bought the Ultimate Lowering Package from Evolution

FRPP Springs
Evo LCAs
BMR Adjustable UCA
Evo Adjustable Panhard Bar & Brace
S&W 3-Point Torque Box Braces
Steeda Upper Strut Mounts

I also added the Tokico D-Spec Shocks & Struts.

I'm extremely satisfied with the result. Zero wheel hop and handles great. The FRPP springs lowered it about 1.5", but it is not excessively low. Still very drivable. I don't rub when entering my driveway, but it's VERY close. I have the shocks adjusted to the mid-point. It rides a bit rougher than stock, but still very comfortable.
Looks quite nice!

How much are all those parts, and how much to install?

I am worried that with 1.5" lowering, I'll be hitting those parking cement blocks and it'll end up breaking the front spoiler (how it that fastened by the way?)

TD
 

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Looks quite nice!

How much are all those parts, and how much to install?

I am worried that with 1.5" lowering, I'll be hitting those parking cement blocks and it'll end up breaking the front spoiler (how it that fastened by the way?)

TD
I had the shocks, springs and UCA installed for $300. The tech had never installed a UCA on a Shelby before, so he had no idea what a PITA it is, otherwise he would have charged a lot more. I installed the rest myself.

I was hitting the cement blocks before it was lowered, so lowering it didn't really matter. You just need to make sure you stop a bit short when parking. I think it looks so much better lowered a bit....well worth the rare hassle. The front spoiler is attached with a handful of bolts...a couple inside the fender well, and several along the underside. It's a super easy job to replace. I've got a spare spoiler in my living room. (The part is only about $65 or $70)
 

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The UCA and LCAs will fix the wheel hop. The other mods are for lowered stance and improved cornering/weight transfer.

I replaced ONLY the LCAs first, and about 60% of my wheel hop was gone. Then I did the UCA, and that took care of any remainder. Those are the only suspension mods I plan to do at this time. I did all installation myself...took about 1.5 hours for the UCA and about 1 hour for the LCAs. If you use the BMR UCA, you should consider the anti-clunk bushings. I have a set, but have not yet installed them on my car....I'll post results after installation.

Dave
 

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Mine is strictly street.

I put BMR LCAs, adj panhard and Steeda springs, 20's with Nitto INVOs.

No wheel hop, much more responsive, handles a 100% better...and looks good (no high hiney).



Before the tires and wheels


New Razors and Nittos
 

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Ground Control Suspension System/Complete Shortened Front Strut Housing/Koni Single Adjustable Front Strut/ Ground Control Threaded Sleeves/Ground Control Adjustable Spring Perch/2 SHORT Koni Single Adjustable Rear Shocks/1 Pair Front Camber Plates/4 Ground Control Springs, Manufactured by Eibach, to GC Specs/2 Ground Control bump stops (made in Germany)/ 2 rear ride height Adjusters/ 1 Pair Rear Upper Shock Mounts (urethane)
Evolution Performance Heavy Duty Billet Lower Control Arms / CNC Machined From 6061-T6 Aircraft Grade Aluminum
BMR Upper Control Arm Mount / Adjustable*"3rd Link
Adjustable Panhard Bar & HD Panhard Bar Brace
3 Point Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace
CHE Performance Front Driveshaft Loop

I lowered the car 2 inches for a level ride height. Chin spoiler is 5 inches off the ground.
 

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My first suspension mod was a Fays2 Watts link about ten months ago. Not only did it virtually eliminate ass-hopping on bumpy turns, it felt as if I had changed the sway bar rates because it made a big difference in cornering stability. About a month ago I added the Steeda front and rear sway bars (the GT500-specifc rear bar) and that took the cornering to a whole new level. I also added the Steeda LCA with spherical ends a couple of days later. After the LCA installation, I noted a reduced amount of driveline shudder ('wheelhop?') - someone above said 60%, and that's about what I'd say too. I also noticed a stiffer ride in the rear as though the springs and shocks were stiffer (they weren't) - which has loosened up somewhat. I have the UCA due to arrive tomorrow and it will go on right away.
Notice I didn't say anything about springs or shocks because they are still stock. The handling is much much better now - so much so that I am not sure if I will lower the car or not. There is no question the car will look better, and probably handle better. But do I NEED to do it? The one annoyance I have with the current rig is that the front shocks are too slow on rebound. The rear reacts and sets, the front takes a while to float back down, so there is a kind of rear to front motion the car could do without.
I'll probably decide to go with the Steeda shocks and springs with the strut bearings and bumpsteer kit. I'm sure other brands will provide good results too. But I have to say that the sway bars and LCA with the Watts link is almost good enough for my driving (non-track, but pretty hard on the twisties anyway). For those not in a rush, you might think about trying just that much to see if you get what you want before going the lowering route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the input..


I was thinking about a really cool looking Billet aluminum LCA from J&M.

Question is - if I go with the adjustable UCA, and this set of fixed/non-adjustable LCA, if I ever end up lowering the car, would the billet LCAs be a disadvantage? They also make a relocation LCA bracket for lowering applications..

I'm not a big suspension guru so I thought I'd ask...


TD
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ground Control Suspension System/Complete Shortened Front Strut Housing/Koni Single Adjustable Front Strut/ Ground Control Threaded Sleeves/Ground Control Adjustable Spring Perch/2 SHORT Koni Single Adjustable Rear Shocks/1 Pair Front Camber Plates/4 Ground Control Springs, Manufactured by Eibach, to GC Specs/2 Ground Control bump stops (made in Germany)/ 2 rear ride height Adjusters/ 1 Pair Rear Upper Shock Mounts (urethane)
Evolution Performance Heavy Duty Billet Lower Control Arms / CNC Machined From 6061-T6 Aircraft Grade Aluminum
BMR Upper Control Arm Mount / Adjustable*"3rd Link
Adjustable Panhard Bar & HD Panhard Bar Brace
3 Point Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace
CHE Performance Front Driveshaft Loop

I lowered the car 2 inches for a level ride height. Chin spoiler is 5 inches off the ground.
How much did all that set you back??
What do you need to do to adjust the rear shocks?

TD
 

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$1600.00 For The Ground Control Kit then Depending on what Kit you get through EVOLUTION PERFORMANCE will adjust the price. You can adjust both the front and rear shocks, all it takes is a turn or two on top of the shock with the adjustment tool they give you in the kit, it's pretty easy and you will feel a big difference when adjusting. Hopes this help.

Kerry
 

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Ground Control Suspension System/Complete Shortened Front Strut Housing/Koni Single Adjustable Front Strut/ Ground Control Threaded Sleeves/Ground Control Adjustable Spring Perch/2 SHORT Koni Single Adjustable Rear Shocks/1 Pair Front Camber Plates/4 Ground Control Springs, Manufactured by Eibach, to GC Specs/2 Ground Control bump stops (made in Germany)/ 2 rear ride height Adjusters/ 1 Pair Rear Upper Shock Mounts (urethane)
Evolution Performance Heavy Duty Billet Lower Control Arms / CNC Machined From 6061-T6 Aircraft Grade Aluminum
BMR Upper Control Arm Mount / Adjustable*"3rd Link
Adjustable Panhard Bar & HD Panhard Bar Brace
3 Point Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace
CHE Performance Front Driveshaft Loop

I lowered the car 2 inches for a level ride height. Chin spoiler is 5 inches off the ground.
How does ride comfort compare to the stock suspension?
 
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