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Some are talking about both upper and lower control arms replaced ....Have you talked to anyone that has this done , did it reduce the wheel hop or is it gone completly........I'm looking at doing this to mine this spring......bmr also has a fix ,which one would you recommend?
 

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BMR? What/who is that?
 

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I went to the website and saw what they want to replace...which I am sure will help or fix but this car is not going to be at the drag strip that much. At least twice while I own it and than for only a couple of runs each time. I will not haze the tires while holding the brakes and I am not putting line lock on this beast like my old mustang. I am hoping the Steeda part will do the trick at least that is what the steeda rep told me. I talked to a performance shop that will be doing my gears, the guy was super nice and came highly recommended from a couple of guys that are serious drag racers. (There car is in the high 8's and low 9's) He told me that wheel hop can be fixed if you through enough money at it. Well I don't want to rebuild my hole suspension just to launch so I will start with the Steeda part, it has to help and for only $ 175.00 your not out much. With Steeda selling the part and claiming it works I would have to think it does or they would get flamed on message boards about it and so far can't find anything negative...or anyone that has used it. When my gears go in I will have that installed at the same time. Unless someone beats me to it and says it did nothing.
 

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busababy ordered the adjustable upper-3-link-kit today and for the price I feel we can't go wrong. Will let you know of my opinion after the install, weather and time permitting. May be a few weeks as I would like to do an oil change and install at the same time and use a clients lift.
 

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Just got off the phone with a rep from Steeda and was told that inorder to eliminate wheel hop the upper link kit should be used in conjunction with their billet rear trailing arms. Installing just the upper will only reduce and not eliminate wheel hop. I decided to go with both. Here are the billet rear trailing arms.

http://www.steeda.com/products/billet_rear_trailing_arms.php
http://www.steeda.com/products/suspension_control_arms.php
Hmm we used to call those traction bars
 

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Hmm we used to call those traction bars
Yes I remember that as well but I am on a mission to rid this evil hop. Was so bad the other day I thought my SHAKER 1000 trunk speaker broke loose. I have also experienced wheel hop so bad the rear seat deck lid sounded as though is was ready to self eject. If anyone says they are not experiencing this dilema then they are not getting on it HARD ENOUGH! As 07 once said bring it to my house. Wheel hop is a matter of life with these vehicles till addressed and that is exactly what I intend to do.;) Can't go to the next level till this demon is put down.:D
 

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Very nice Shelby SVT, I wished you were my neighbor we could have Shelby Project weekends. So if I understand you need 2 parts to make this work. When I am getting my gears put in I am going to work on the suspension at the same time, because if it is this bad with stock gears 3.73 or 4.11 are going to really suck... With the tune and CAI I can't hammer it at all in 1st, I have to wait till in 2nd before I plant it to the floor and even then depending on the surface I can still breaking them loose which sounds impressive but the reality of it is hopping is going to break something and even though I would tell the dealer " Gee I don't know what happen I was driving along and hear a clunk" I would rather it not break. So what was the total price for all this so I know how deep I need to dig :) Also keep this thread updated with your results and what it takes to put these on. The guy that is going to do my gears of course could do it but if something I could do that would be even better.
 

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busababy I am going to attempt to install these myself as I was under the car the other day and from what I can tell the trailing arm require removal of the E brake cable as it snakes through it. So jack stands, wheel chocks and a good floor jack from what I can tell. will know more once I receive the parts and install instructions. The price on the adjustable control arm is $180 but you can go cheaper if go go with a fixed version for $125. The lower trailing arms vary as well from $210 to $390. I am going with the billet Ford stamped version for $380. Will keep you posted on the install as well as results. The reps at Steeda insist this will do the trick, and that if not addressed, wheel hop will only get worse with time as the rubber busings degrade. The urethane bushings coupled with a stronger trailing arm are the fix.
 

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There are great instructions for the LCA's installation on the Roush perfomance site. I have the billet lowers coming too. Should be here next week. I went to Ford and ordered the one time use bolts and nuts. I don't think Steeda furnishes them.
 

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Sounds good guys...please keep me up to date on the results and the install. I met another shelby owner today funny thing he lives 5 miles away got his in August (black/white stripe) not a member of boards. I went by and saw his car and he is going to start doing some mods on his. He has changed the exhaust and has ordered 4.30 gears. He is also going with a taller tire. Intake and computer is next on his list. And than somewhere in all this is the control arms. So enough of us should have them to tell if they work :)
 

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I think this is going to be my first modification, I get some crazy wheel hop when it is below 40* out, little wheel hop below 50, and I didn't really experience much at 70*. I was even getting wheel hop AT 70 MPH which is really weird, also when I hit third gear, so I will need these soon.
 

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There are great instructions for the LCA's installation on the Roush perfomance site. I have the billet lowers coming too. Should be here next week. I went to Ford and ordered the one time use bolts and nuts. I don't think Steeda furnishes them.
txlaw read the Roush and Steeda install instructions and there is a conflict on installation. Roush calls for discarding the front and rear nuts and bolts as Steeda does not. The only reason I can see discarding these is if you do not reapply blue locktite, something I will do even though Steeda's instructions do not call for this. The Roush instructions even show the bolts being reinstalled as the locktite is worn off the bolts being installed. Also Roush calls for the vehicle to be placed on jack stands that are placed under the chasis with no load on the suspension, where as Steeda calls for the suspension to be loaded (wheels in contact with the surface). Steeda also called for grease to be applied to the outside edges of the bushings or they will sqeak. Roush did give better instructions for removal of the E brake cable and forward LCA bolts. I would go with the install instructions of the manufacturer although I am quite confused as to the different methods of the suspension being either under a load or not. Anyone have any thoughts on this?:confused:
 

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Since I don't have experience with either one I would have to say this. Steeda was the first to come up with them and they have them I am sure on there Q series cars. With that said the instructions that come with them would be the way I would go. Of course while doing it if you see that maybe grease should be applied somewhere or loctite than it can't hurt to do what you think. If your going to do this yourself and you have the vacation or sick time :) I would do it during the week so if your into it and something does not make sense I would pick up the cordless phone and make a call to them. They could than transfer you to an installer and tell you what is up...especially if the person has done a few of them he would be worth his weight in gold having him on the phone for a couple questions. He is getting paid to help and honestly if nobody called to get technical help than they would do away with that position so I say give them a call help you out and help him keep his job. Than tell us what is going on... being the first makes you once your done the teacher...so take good notes and explain to us young grasshoppers :)
 

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Since I don't have experience with either one I would have to say this. Steeda was the first to come up with them and they have them I am sure on there Q series cars. With that said the instructions that come with them would be the way I would go. Of course while doing it if you see that maybe grease should be applied somewhere or loctite than it can't hurt to do what you think. If your going to do this yourself and you have the vacation or sick time :) I would do it during the week so if your into it and something does not make sense I would pick up the cordless phone and make a call to them. They could than transfer you to an installer and tell you what is up...especially if the person has done a few of them he would be worth his weight in gold having him on the phone for a couple questions. He is getting paid to help and honestly if nobody called to get technical help than they would do away with that position so I say give them a call help you out and help him keep his job. Than tell us what is going on... being the first makes you once your done the teacher...so take good notes and explain to us young grasshoppers :)
The Steeda PRO adjustable UCA is the one to use. The NVH is a tad more than the regular version, but this is the one to get. It will not necessarily rid your car of wheel hop but it will help.

The Steeda billet LCAs are not as robust as the BMRs (nor do I think they look as good). The BMRs are some sturdy mothers. They have a higher quality bushing and have grease nipples installed on both ends. I have the BMRs on my GT500 and between the two items, the hop went away (at least it did at these temps).

I have also changed my panhard rod to an adjustable and replaced the brace as well.

Take a look at Evolutions kit. It's pieced together, but the bulk of the stuff is Steeda. They used the BMR lowers for a reason.


bj
 

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The Steeda PRO adjustable UCA is the one to use. The NVH is a tad more than the regular version, but this is the one to get. It will not necessarily rid your car of wheel hop but it will help.

The Steeda billet LCAs are not as robust as the BMRs (nor do I think they look as good). The BMRs are some sturdy mothers. They have a higher quality bushing and have grease nipples installed on both ends. I have the BMRs on my GT500 and between the two items, the hop went away (at least it did at these temps).

I have also changed my panhard rod to an adjustable and replaced the brace as well.

Take a look at Evolutions kit. It's pieced together, but the bulk of the stuff is Steeda. They used the BMR lowers for a reason.


bj
VNIMOUS1 I like the idea of having a grease fitting on the bushing ends to address stress and squeak issues on the LCA. I also noticed on the BMR LCA there was no cut out to snake the E brake cable. Did you have to route the cable above or below the LCA? Thanks for the info as I am going to return my Steeda LCA for the BMR and the Steeda street LCA for the competition version.;)
 

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Good info...the power of the web is great...well I will hold off on suspension parts until all the dust clears. Please keep us up to date on the install and if you could ShelbySVT or vnmous1 the part numbers that I (we) need to order.

After looking over your list vnmous1 you have done some serious mods...I like it :)
 

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Good info...the power of the web is great...well I will hold off on suspension parts until all the dust clears. Please keep us up to date on the install and if you could ShelbySVT or vnmous1 the part numbers that I (we) need to order.

After looking over your list vnmous1 you have done some serious mods...I like it :)
busababy you can order the Evolution ultimate performance suspension kit for $999 which includes a few items that may be overkill such as the relocation brackets for the LCA and 3 point frame rails. I am thinking of ordering individual parts and they are as follows. BMR LCA part #TCA027 $230, Steeda UCA part # 555-4106 $280, Steeda panhard bar part #555-2551 $160 and the Steeda panhard bar brace part # 555-2555 $80. I believe vnmous1 ordered the full suspension kit from Evolution. Vnmous1 give us your opinion as to the additional installs with this kit if that is how you ordered. Like your choice in gear set as well. I suggest you look at the Evolution site as he stated in his post as it is mostly Steeda parts. BMR's LCA definitely looks a little beefier as vnmous1 has stated and I like the look as well. Vnmous1 thanks for the input.;)
 
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