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2008 Vista Blue
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Discussion Starter #1
I was going to order up an MGW shifter today, but I have a question before proceeding.

Right after I bought my car from Kurt, I ordered a Shelby shift knob that has the thread adapters and the lock nut that goes below it (shown in pic).

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I'm trying to figure out if I need anything else to make this work, as in do I need the jamb nut or whatever its called?

If the jamb nut is what first tightens the shift knob in place, I realize the supplied lock nut will accomplish the same thing. As far as it hooking up with the top of the shift boot so the shaft is never seen, I actually DON'T want that and want the boot loose against the shaft.

With that in mind, am I understanding correctly that all I should need is the MGW shifter itself (and obviously the correct matching threads from the shift knob to mate up with the MGW shaft) to make this all match up and work once installed?

I'd appreciate the clarification. I just want to avoid getting the time to finally get it installed and then realizing that I needed that deal after all.

Thanks
 

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I don’t know about the MGW specifically Bryan, but check out a thread I made back when I installed an aftermarket shift knob. Scroll down to see post #16... you’ll see my shift boot retainer. Later on I bought an actual retainer and ditched my homemade version.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don’t know about the MGW specifically Bryan, but check out a thread I made back when I installed an aftermarket shift knob. Scroll down to see post #16... you’ll see my shift boot retainer. Later on I bought an actual retainer and ditched my homemade version.


Thanks Goose. I did do a search, but must have skipped right over that post. My bad, but I'll go look at it right now, thanks
 

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2011 GT500, Ingot Silver
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The MGW jam nut is a nice piece. No exposed hex or sharp edges and blends nicely from the shift knob to the top of the boot. I would much rather use it instead of a standard hex jam nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Last question about the MGW (I hope).

Did any of you feel the need to order the second shift lever that is slightly longer then the one that initially comes with it? I'm just wondering if a lot of people who installed theirs found it to be too short and were glad they got the 1/2" longer arm so they could switch it out. As before, I'm just trying to anticipate what others might have found with theirs as they got it and installed it and if during their install, they realized they should have also purchased some of the options (think of a project your working on at home...I'm trying to avoid running to the hardware store 5 times to actually get the project done).

Thanks
 

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I just installed the new gen 2 mgw in my 2008 a couple of days ago and the mgw knob is the only way to go. These parts are made to fit each other. The machining and fitment is dead on. I only wish I would of upgraded to the knob with cobra logo. I also wished I would of got the red writing as the stitching in my boot is red. I did purchase the standard and the longer lever, it was only an additional $15.00 for the second lever. One thing I did run into was the studs that fasten the shifters rear support bracket to the transmission tunnel had a broken stud. After inspection in order to change the stud you would have to drill a 1” hole thru the cover that is spot welded over the tunnel to gain access to the stud. I assume this was the reason for my mishifts! I did some research and found as rear support kit made by blowfish racing that completely mounts the shifter to the transmission instead of the rear of the shifter being mounted to the body. I also a drive line safety loop. Very good quality. I haven’t tested it yet but in the shop it feels ten times better than stock.the only concern I have is blowfish kit requires a plate that’s supplied that goes between the trans and the crossmember which is fairly thin (less than a 1/4”) . If it turns into an issue you can shim your crossmember down to get back to the factory angle. The kit is definitely worth looking into because I know these drivetrains do twist a little. Hope this helps
 

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You're going to need to grind off the rear "ears" off the Blowfish bracket to be able to adjust the rear mounting bracket properly. Been there, done that. I used a cut off wheel on a Dremel.
 

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I’ve got the long handle on my MGW2. That’s what the guy at MGW recommended.
The long handle is shorter than stock and feels great to me. I’m not sure I’d like it any shorter.
 

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Looked back at my install and the remaining stud does keep the mount from going up against the stops on the rear support pins of the shifter. About a 1/4”. The eyes on the bracket seem to be ok but if they were gone it would clean it up back there. I’m assuming you want the rear mount square with the blowfish bracket. Instructions aren’t very clear. I’m going to remove it and cut the remaining stud and probably remove the eyes. Thanks for the info
 

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I don't think my bracket is all the way back on the slotted holes, but further than they can be placed with that obstruction. Take a measurement of where the two prongs should be with the mount bolted from the original studs and that distance is your goal when you're done. I'd measure from the top of the tunnel. That's what I did.

I should mention I used this bracket for reasons unrelated to having a solid transmission mounted shifter. The first is that it provides a driveshaft loop. My exhaust is so tight that most aftermarket loops I've tried won't work. The second was related to potentially lowering my engine. I haven't done that it yet, but I can see where my supercharger is rubbing on the hood insulation. I've not used the MGW2 with the body mount, but it shifts incredibly the way it's presently installed.

One other thing I did to minimize vibration was to install a couple of rifle barrel vibration dampeners on the shift arms. I had these on my original MGW and just transferred them over to the 2. One dampener needed a little clearancing on the passenger side of the tunnel. You don't hear this puppy.
 

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I don't think my bracket is all the way back on the slotted holes, but further than they can be placed with that obstruction. Take a measurement of where the two prongs should be with the mount bolted from the original studs and that distance is your goal when you're done. I'd measure from the top of the tunnel. That's what I did.

I should mention I used this bracket for reasons unrelated to having a solid transmission mounted shifter. The first is that it provides a driveshaft loop. My exhaust is so tight that most aftermarket loops I've tried won't work. The second was related to potentially lowering my engine. I haven't done that it yet, but I can see where my supercharger is rubbing on the hood insulation. I've not used the MGW2 with the body mount, but it shifts incredibly the way it's presently installed.

One other thing I did to minimize vibration was to install a couple of rifle barrel vibration dampeners on the shift arms. I had these on my original MGW and just transferred them over to the 2. One dampener needed a little clearancing on the passenger side of the tunnel. You don't hear this puppy.
With that said it does look like my mount needs to go slightly towards the rear which requires the bracket eyes to be cut off, time for revision 1. To bad they didn’t offer a top bracket specifically for an mgw shifter!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here is the difference between the two MGW2 handles......



R
Do you get a lock nut with one or both handles, or do you only get them if you order a shift knob too? I've looked all over the web site and see nothing that clarifies how that works.
 

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Do you get a lock nut with one or both handles, or do you only get them if you order a shift knob too? I've looked all over the web site and see nothing that clarifies how that works.
The lock nut is to lock the shaft to the shifter base. It has nothing to do with the shifter ball. They make a really nice pedestal for their shift ball, but it doesn't come with the shaft.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
The lock nut is to lock the shaft to the shifter base. It has nothing to do with the shifter ball. They make a really nice pedestal for their shift ball, but it doesn't come with the shaft.

So is that the pedestal in your pic besides the key below, or is that the lock nut? I think my confusion lies in what that top piece is called and then if it only comes with an order for a shift knob, or I get one for each shaft so I can adjust the height of the shift knob.
 

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The pedestal is threaded and is used to lock the ball in place. The wrench (key) for the pedestal is also pictured. It looks better than a jam nut and has a stock look to it.

 

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