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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Proper break in for new brakes??

Does anyone know what the proper break in is for new crossed drilled/slotted rotors and new stillen pads??? As far as what the best way to break them in is?? I heard something about driving a couple of miles then braking slow then going longer and faster and braking harder?? can anyone confirm.. Thanks
 

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Re: Proper break in for new brakes??

Does anyone know what the proper break in is for new crossed drilled/slotted rotors and new stillen pads??? As far as what the best way to break them in is?? I heard something about driving a couple of miles then braking slow then going longer and faster and braking harder?? can anyone confirm.. Thanks
Break in instructions come with the new rotors. I don't have the instructions with me here at work.

I'm sure Page from Stillen will jump in here to help.

Cal
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't receive any instructions with the rotors... Page if you see this post please jump in... Thanks
 

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Hey there,

I will either e-mail or post the break-in insructions tomorrow when I am back at work :)

Page
 

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Hey there,

TRIED to upload the PDF for rotor-pad breakin guidelines. Its too large to upload here (37kb).

Shoot me a PM with your e-mail address and I will e-mail you a copy right away.

Sorry - I tried :(

Thanks

Page
 

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#1 Mike!
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Just put new brakes on front and rear. My Technician advised to conduct ten stops at thirty MPH. (I.E. mildly accelerate from stop to 30MPH then stop and repeat) using gentle pedal preasure. After that use conservative braking for the next 100 miles and you should be fine. Pads will seat in nicely.
 

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Are you happy with the Stillen rotors Lee? No warping, squeaking, cracking? Have you gotten to put any miles on since you've had them (not sure where you're located)? Thinking of going that route with ceramic pads, but want to make sure the rotors are going to hold up.
 

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I have around 300 miles on mine and no problems at all.:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Are you happy with the Stillen rotors Lee? No warping, squeaking, cracking? Have you gotten to put any miles on since you've had them (not sure where you're located)? Thinking of going that route with ceramic pads, but want to make sure the rotors are going to hold up.
I am definitely happy with the Stillen rotors.. I haven't had any warping, squeaking or cracking.. I live in Florida but I don't drive the car all that much but I haven't noticed anything at all.. I have the metal Matrix pads . Worth the money IMO and it looks 100% better.
 

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Hey Lee,
I purchased mine from stillen too. They're going on next Wed. I got quoted on them the day Page left. It has taken several weeks for the metal matrix pads to come in but finally they come the other day. Looking forward to the new rotor,pads, and brakelines to get on.

Take care,
Michael
 

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Congrats Michael... You will love them...
 

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Hope you haven't driven the car at all yet without bedding the brakes!

Here ya go:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm


1.

From a speed of 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
2.

Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration, uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors.
3.

The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.
4.

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need about 5 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
5.

If race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction 01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph.
6.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
7.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.
 
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