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Discussion Starter #1
I had my ac fixed, cruise control fixed and I figured that I would have one of our master techs look at my intercooler fan relay or is it the radiator fan relay or is it both that tend to fail or burned up

I know one or both of relays can fail or get burned up.

What should I have the tech look at while he is looking so I can get my $100 dollar dectutible's worth
 

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Don, I would think your tech would know where he should look to make sure your don't have a cooling problem. He could look at both relays quite easily.

I will say that you are hereby awarded the distinguishment of having the longest thread title in history! Your trophy is in the mail. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don, I would think your tech would know where he should look to make sure your don't have a cooling problem. He could look at both relays quite easily.

I will say that you are hereby awarded the distinguishment of having the longest thread title in history! Your trophy is in the mail. :)

That made me laugh .... :) Yes its pretty long I saw that but I'm a guy who does things copiously.

Some can say things in two sentences where I take three. My college professor back in the day, told me I could be a very good short story author !

Now back to the thread, I want to do that too, guide him in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Question to the forum. I am not having any known current issues with either relay. Since I have the Ford Premium Care extended warranty and it expires this fall, I want to maximize it and since I know the relays go bad is a visual ID by the tech sufficient. Im not good with programmers and VMP stated that if the Tech needs to hook the scanner to the OBD port, the car has to have its stock tune in and than I have to reflash it with the the proper VMP tune. I think I have several tunes stored so IF I decided to do this how do I tell what tune name the car is currently in ?

I think I can reflash the car to stock. Ive done it before but its been a while, just want to make sure I re-flash it back to the proper tune
 

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202186


WHAT??? If you get a look from the tech that appears as though he believes your spaceship just landed in the dealership's parking lot, that's probably the same expression I have on my face.

What do the fan and intercooler pump relays have to do with your tuner? First off, your car will not run if you return it to stock. If you do it in the parking lot, they'll have to push your car into the shop. If you tell your dealer, "whatever you do, don't flash the PCM", you have nothing to worry about, unless they're clearly incompetent. Even if they did do that and you have the tune, reload the tune. It's not a big deal, unless you don't have the tune, or a means to download the tune. You will lose one of your tune lives.

As to the dealership probing for events that might happen at a future date and time, I don't think your warranty is going to pay for it. When circuit's burn it's usually because something got extremely hot, and the cause of that is typically a bad ground. I would unplug the relays and inspect the contacts for corrosion. I would do the same thing for any harness connectors in those two circuits. If the pins are corroded, clean them as best you can and use a little di-electric grease. These are both going to fall into maintenance categories which will be on your nickel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
View attachment 202186

WHAT??? If you get a look from the tech that appears as though he believes your spaceship just landed in the dealership's parking lot, that's probably the same expression I have on my face.

What do the fan and intercooler pump relays have to do with your tuner? First off, your car will not run if you return it to stock. If you do it in the parking lot, they'll have to push your car into the shop. If you tell your dealer, "whatever you do, don't flash the PCM", you have nothing to worry about, unless they're clearly incompetent. Even if they did do that and you have the tune, reload the tune. It's not a big deal, unless you don't have the tune, or a means to download the tune. You will lose one of your tune lives.

As to the dealership probing for events that might happen at a future date and time, I don't think your warranty is going to pay for it. When circuit's burn it's usually because something got extremely hot, and the cause of that is typically a bad ground. I would unplug the relays and inspect the contacts for corrosion. I would do the same thing for any harness connectors in those two circuits. If the pins are corroded, clean them as best you can and use a little di-electric grease. These are both going to fall into maintenance categories which will be on your nickel.

I concur. I will do a time out, my bad

my bad.jpg



I didnt clarify myself. I would be with the tech when he gets it in his bay and I did a tutorial on how to return to stock ( I am just not good with the SCT device) which according to VMP when I spoke to them has to be done before any FORD scanner is used to test everything. Than once I get a clean bill of health I need to reflash to my current tune which in lies the dilemma

How do I find out the name/file of my current SCT tune so I can revert back to the VMP tune. I have multiple tunes on the SCT4

John does this make more sense in my clarification
 

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Discussion Starter #8
just found out how to find the current name , my current tune on my sct device

Per sct on there help section

How to find Current Flash:
1. Navigate the menu to find and select "Device Info"
2. Scroll down to find Married or Paired status which will display the word "Married" or "Paired" if the device is married to a vehicle.
3. Current Flash is directly underneath the Married Status. Here you will find a status showing preload or custom tune, the vehicle EEC Type (Processor ID), and the vehicle strategy.

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I can't say it makes sense, but do what you think you need to do. I just don't think Ford's scan tool is going to flash the PCM just by virtue of hooking it up, but I don't have a Ford scan tool either. Does your flash device show codes now? Unless you already have an open circuit, I don't think a code will show up for the fan or pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I can't say it makes sense, but do what you think you need to do. I just don't think Ford's scan tool is going to flash the PCM just by virtue of hooking it up, but I don't have a Ford scan tool either. Does your flash device show codes now? Unless you already have an open circuit, I don't think a code will show up for the fan or pump.
I really dont use the SCT device ..... I am more concerned that I will mess something up in the tune.

I did however get the SCT device out and saw where I can revert to stock settings, thats pretty easy, and than the info I read from SCT's web page I found my current tune.

I am going to call SCT tomorrow and make sure the methods I followed and the tune I found are in fact the current tune.

From what I can see ( i removed the radiator low and high speed fan relay and the male and female ends look good. However the intercooler pump relay the male end the relay it self was fine however I could see some heat marks on the female side . Just want to make sure all is ok while I have the time and the warranty coverage.
 

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Are you running a fanned heat exchanger? If it's the connector at the pump, I think it's a common connector. It is sort of exposed to the elements sitting on top the heat exchanger like it is. Make sure you have separate fan relays for the heat exchangers. The OEM power wire should only be used for the trigger wire for the fan relays. I shouldn't be drawing any current to run the fans.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Are you running a fanned heat exchanger? If it's the connector at the pump, I think it's a common connector. It is sort of exposed to the elements sitting on top the heat exchanger like it is. Make sure you have separate fan relays for the heat exchangers. The OEM power wire should only be used for the trigger wire for the fan relays. I shouldn't be drawing any current to run the fans.
Will do
 
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