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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All-

Just picked up a 2011 GT500, Kona Blue. 38K on the clock and got it from the dealer (Ford) that has done most of the service but not all. I got a full bumper to bumper warranty as well and figured it was stock. I don't think so. Any input would be great!

Here is what I found:

1. Receipt for full SS headers and cat back exhaust. The name was like "GT500 SS full exhaust" on the receipt but I can look again if it matters.
2. A box with a Pully in it. I assume the box is indicative of the pulley on the car and the stock one is in the box. Please see pic below
3. Also a box for a tensioner pulley. Please see pic below
4. A SCR Tuner (X4). Plugging that into my PC, it shows it is "married".

The pulley specs show a 125hp and 3psi increase. That's huge if I'm at 675hp. The car runs terrific and I'm not going to plug that tuner into car and mess with anything as I don't know what I'm doing. I bought the car thinking it was stock and no one at Ford knew any different. It looks like all Ford/Steeda/SVT parts. No bs.

Any ideas? Next steps (if any). Questions? Concerns?

Thank you!!!!

Michael
Colorado

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Pic from today: Looks like a smaller pulley?

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2020 CFTP Red! 2011 Kona Blue
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Hi All-

Just picked up a 2011 GT500, Kona Blue. 38K on the clock and got it from the dealer (Ford) that has done most of the service but not all. I got a full bumper to bumper warranty as well and figured it was stock. I don't think so. Any input would be great!

Here is what I found:

1. Receipt for full SS headers and cat back exhaust. The name was like "GT500 SS full exhaust" on the receipt but I can look again if it matters.
2. A box with a Pully in it. I assume the box is indicative of the pulley on the car and the stock one is in the box. Please see pic below
3. Also a box for a tensioner pulley. Please see pic below
4. A SCR Tuner (X4). Plugging that into my PC, it shows it is "married".

The pulley specs show a 125hp and 3psi increase. That's huge if I'm at 675hp. The car runs terrific and I'm not going to plug that tuner into car and mess with anything as I don't know what I'm doing. I bought the car thinking it was stock and no one at Ford knew any different. It looks like all Ford/Steeda/SVT parts. No bs.

Any ideas? Next steps (if any). Questions? Concerns?

Thank you!!!!

Michael
Colorado

View attachment 246977
View attachment 246976

Pic from today: Looks like a smaller pulley?

View attachment 246978
Looks like you have the standard “pulley/intake/tune” minus the intake. If you have no info or history on the car, you may want to schedule a dyno session and have your parameters checked.
 
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Look down in the engine bay down near the dipstick to see if you got headers, look under the car near the trans to see if you have cats. Nice car!
 

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You're not liable to see an extra 125 hp with a 2.6" pulley on the stock supercharger. Headers don't add that much power, but it is relative to boost. Headers can also reduce boost pressure. Should be pretty easy to determine if headers are installed or not. Factory exhaust manifold was a cast iron log style piece. SS only stands for stainless steel so that's not much of a clue. As far as I know, all aftermarket headers for these cars are stainless steel. They will typically have a logo plate somewhere on one of the pipes, but you may have to get the car in the air. See if any logos are impregnated on the exhaust tips.
 

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Definitely the Steeda pulley, had the same one on my stock blower. They sold a number of different power packages and yours may have just been the pulley and tune combo with a larger idler to help take up some extra slack from the smaller supercharger pulley.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone.

1. So I got my hp figures from Steeda;
In-house testing has shown increases of over 125 HP and 100ftlbs of Torque to the rear tires!!! (Tested on GT500 with Steeda CAI, Pulley, and Tune)

2. It has to have cats as it passed emissions. Can't do that here without.

3. As far as headers go, here is the receipt. I'm pretty sure I'm good there too....

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Definitely the Steeda pulley, had the same one on my stock blower. They sold a number of different power packages and yours may have just been the pulley and tune combo with a larger idler to help take up some extra slack from the smaller supercharger pulley.
I bet your right. Which would be just fine.
I noticed spare tire is missing. Another "mod" to deal with lol
 

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I bet your right. Which would be just fine.
I noticed spare tire is missing. Another "mod" to deal with lol
There is no spare in the Gt500’s. You should have a tire inflater though, unless the previous owner took it out. You’re lucky the tuner was with the car. Most times its not. Enjoy!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ah ha! I knew that (lol). Ill look again but I think other than the tuner, boxes etc it's empty. Probably can get a inflator and one of those small battery jumpers for an emergency kit. I kept the first aid kit from my last car.

Car also has a nice car cover in the trunk as well.
 

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Stainless Works is a manufacturer. They're reputable. Stainless Works

Steeda's claim might pertain to the older cars rated at 500 hp, so maybe they picked up that much power between the pulley, CAI and tune. A 2011 has 550 hp and a pretty capable CAI right out of the box. It's essentially the same engine, but the 2011+ has a 2.75" exhaust vs. 2.5" on the previous models and a more sophisticated processor with widebands and knock sensors. Even so, you should be able to see similar power levels given similar mods. A 2011 would be in the 480 rear wheel horsepower range right out the box. I've never seen a stock blower car with mods make near 600 rwhp without a port. Not even close with a 2.6", The stock supercharger on the 07-12 is a bit of a turd. There are pretty massive gains to be had just upgrading it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Ok. Thanks. I'm talking crank power, not wheel. My Roush had 500 wheel and that's at 5280 altitude. It was a 16 with a Roush blower though. It was tested on a dyno and I'll never do that again. Painful to watch , listen and smell due to heat.

I guess you are saying real gains would be with a Kenne or Whipple?

I probably won't go there. By the time my Tuesday rolls around and I have my appt with Ford, thanks to the forum members I'll have a VERY good idea where I'm at and what I may change. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So to finalize things, I managed to get a hold of the owner who sold to my dealer. 7 years of ownership. He bought it with 3k miles. I got the story on the mods, tune etc. This has helped me a lot. He is about 10 miles from me and we may meet up as he thinks he can find the shop in Denver that did the work and supporting paperwork. He even has the original exhaust but I have no interest in that. The tune is loaded as he never took it off and the car has passed emissions so all good there.

He never had one issue with it. All service was routine. That kinda echos what the Ford "expert" told me. He never sees 11s etc come into the shop. Only issues seems to be with newer ones.

I may dress this one up a bit but no blower swaps (I read these are great for blower swaps for some reason) and just drive it. Dyno shows 640 (at crank I'm sure) and that is plenty. Would love to ceramic it but that's pricey. Probably just good old Mcquires or Adams and elbow grease. Gotta get some pics today too.

Thanks to everyone who chimed it. I'm sure I'll have more questions.
 

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So to finalize things, I managed to get a hold of the owner who sold to my dealer. 7 years of ownership. He bought it with 3k miles. I got the story on the mods, tune etc. This has helped me a lot. He is about 10 miles from me and we may meet up as he thinks he can find the shop in Denver that did the work and supporting paperwork. He even has the original exhaust but I have no interest in that. The tune is loaded as he never took it off and the car has passed emissions so all good there.

He never had one issue with it. All service was routine. That kinda echos what the Ford "expert" told me. He never sees 11s etc come into the shop. Only issues seems to be with newer ones.

I may dress this one up a bit but no blower swaps (I read these are great for blower swaps for some reason) and just drive it. Dyno shows 640 (at crank I'm sure) and that is plenty. Would love to ceramic it but that's pricey. Probably just good old Mcquires or Adams and elbow grease. Gotta get some pics today too.

Thanks to everyone who chimed it. I'm sure I'll have more questions.
.
You can pull an engine & dyno it,.................likely what you have chassis dyno sheet which shows rwhp.
Does the sheet show what kind of dyno was used ??
 

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So to finalize things, I managed to get a hold of the owner who sold to my dealer. 7 years of ownership. He bought it with 3k miles. I got the story on the mods, tune etc. This has helped me a lot. He is about 10 miles from me and we may meet up as he thinks he can find the shop in Denver that did the work and supporting paperwork. He even has the original exhaust but I have no interest in that. The tune is loaded as he never took it off and the car has passed emissions so all good there.

He never had one issue with it. All service was routine. That kinda echos what the Ford "expert" told me. He never sees 11s etc come into the shop. Only issues seems to be with newer ones.

I may dress this one up a bit but no blower swaps (I read these are great for blower swaps for some reason) and just drive it. Dyno shows 640 (at crank I'm sure) and that is plenty. Would love to ceramic it but that's pricey. Probably just good old Mcquires or Adams and elbow grease. Gotta get some pics today too.

Thanks to everyone who chimed it. I'm sure I'll have more questions.
I really not trying to nitpick this, but you came here and asked about your combination, so I'm just doing my best to give you accurate information about what you have based on my experience. Don't take it personal. I have no hidden agenda. My experience comes from spending 11 years on these boards reading other folks experiences with hundreds of different combinations. I have a 2012, purchased new in 2011, that spends more time under the knife than it does on the street. I'm on my second engine, third camshaft, 4th supercharger just to name a few expiramental mods. The poor thing has gotten neglected since I bought my 2021. But unless your car is one of those rare unicorns that shoots rainbow colored glitter out the tail pipes at WOT, there's little chance your car is making 640 rwhp on a stock blower with headers. My best guess would be more like 575-590.

Trust me, a dyno operator can make a dyno say just about anything he wants it to, if incorrect data is entered as to air temperature, barometric pressure, humidity, elevation, etc. Chassis Dyno's can't determine crank horsepower. People like to make ASS-U-MEptions about percentages for parasitic loss, but why would a car that loses 100 hp through the drivetrain at 6,000 rpm, lose more power at the same rpm just by virtue of making more 20-50% more power? A back up dyno from a competent shop with S.A.E. numbers would certainly put me in my place.

Here is another new member's dyno on his 2010 and he has a TVS from a 13-14 . I don't know the guy, but this was the easiest example I could find with very little effort. With a 2.8" upper and a 10% lower and a 15% larger supercharger on his 2010, he's pumping 17.5% more air into his engine for each crank rotation. To match that you'd need a 2.5" upper and a 15% lower just to be in the same theoretical ball park. I say theoretical because the TVS is a whole lot more efficient than Eaton's 2 liter M series, and you'd be spinning that supercharger a lot higher and generating a lot more heat (20,413 rpm vs 17,750 rpm). To put his pulley combination in perspective of a stock lower with a TVS, it's the equivalent of a 2.5" upper alone on a stock lower. He also has a larger throttle body. He still has stock exhaust and cats, so he doesn't have that advantage. That said, I would have expected this combination to make more than he did, but the tune may be very conservative. If you don't pump a lot of air through the lower grille while the car is on the dyno, heat soak will lower your results too.

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I came across an old thread discussion on 2.6" pulleys on a quick google search.

Peace!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks. If the original owner comes up with the dyno sheet, I'll post it. I'm also going to get an appt with a local tuner/specialist just to go over the car and plug in the SCT and verify perhaps what is or is not going on.

I guess I'll ask the "next step" question but I really don't want to ping too hard on this baby. I was actually looking for stock. The mods were a non advertised special so to speak.

I'm not going to dyno it either way. I did that on my Roush and it seemed like it is beating the crap out of the car. Not worth it to me.

Also based on your insight every dyno result on this forum may be just guesswork. "Trust me, a dyno operator can make a dyno say just about anything he wants it to, if incorrect data is entered as to air temperature, barometric pressure, humidity, elevation, etc." And I believe you. Never thought about that but I'm sure crap in = crap out.

The previous owner stated 640 when tested but 590 or so is just fine with me. However I have yet to calibrate my butt dyno. It seemed like my 16 pulled harder but I am not near WOT on the GT yet and may not get there based on my level of acceptable risk and the car's handling characteristics. Here is the the 16s dyno on a Mustang machine.

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Your car looks like it's still pulling at 6,200 rpm and the GT500 is peaked at that point. We haven't talked about heat yet, but it has a huge impact on power output on a 5.4. With higher boost comes with higher discharge temperatures. That's why a larger supercharger can be advantageous too. You don't have to spin a larger supercharger as hard which can also reduce discharge temperatures. You have much cooler temps in CO, so it may not be as pronounced, but with more boost and the stock heat exchanger you may be experiencing power reduction when the PCM pulls timing. Unless you can monitor IAT2, it's hard to know what's going on. If your flash tool is SCT, you can datalog that parameter as well as spark retard. You can do that just driving around, as opposed to getting it on a dyno. A dyno is really not any harder on the engine than doing pulls on the street. It's just usually safer.

There is a strategy in the PCM that uses a second air temp sensor in the lower intake. As temps in the lower chamber reach a certain temp or go up, timing is pulled in a progressive manner as temps rise. A larger heat exchanger will help some. It's not a cure all, but we all fight what's preceived as heat soak. Problem is when temps go down, power is likely to go up, but so does the effectiveness of summer tires. So, just pay attention when the mercury goes down. Your car may behave a lot differently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
All great points....

1. I love driving on bright sunny days in cool weather. Maybe 20 degrees and above.
2. I'll need different rubber to support that
3. What supercharger would you recommend and would this nessitate other support mods to manage the increase in hp?. I'm thinking best bang for buck without going bonkers or affecting the cars value.
 

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Keep your eyes peeled for a used TVS. A VMP Gen 2 or Gen 2R would be top of the heap. A trinty will not be far behind. A ported version of any of these would only be better. You don't want one with high miles. A Gen 4 or 5 Whipple wouldn't be bad either, if the price is right. I just think used you'd see a higher price tag than a TVS. You won't need to go straight to the smallest upper pulley which would negate the need for larger fuel injectors or pump boosters. But you would have 700 rwhp potential if you decided to turn the wick up. Just don't throw your old blower away. Going price for it is in the $450 neighborhood and if it's important to a buyer down the road, you have it. It's like changing a 30 lb carbureator, so it's a simple mod.
 
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