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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got the new stainless stick with white ball today from Blue Oval and installed it with only minor difficulties. It does not fit into the existing handle holder but is made to bolt directly to the shifter stub (at least thats what I call it). I used one of the pieces of rubber from the old shifter and placed it between the new handle and the stub. Just couldn't see bolting it directly to the stub without any kind of insulating material. Looks great. It has an oblong rubber fitting that pushes about half way down the handle which the top of the boot fits into. Being an old school geyser, it looks and feels like a muscle car now.
 

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Post some pics.......
 

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How do you like the new action?

TD
 

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How do you like the new action?

TD
I still have my stock shifter but changed the stock handle and knob to the FRPP ball knob. I installed it metal-to-metal. I have not driven it much but so far I like the feel and position. The knob seems to sits back more while in 2nd, 4th and 6th gear. I always felt the stock knob was too vertical in those gears.

 

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The FRPP handle/knob did not come with any instructions - so here is how I installed it.

1. Pop off the bezel - it pops off really easy.


2. Unscew knob and remove boot/bezel, then pull the knob out of the boot.

Update: Just pull the boot collar down off the base of the shifter knob; this should make it easier to unscrew the knob without interference from the boot.


3. Remove stock handle bolts using a 13mm wrench. Suggest putting a towel around the console opening to keep from marring the edges in case the wrench slips.


Here's the FRPP handle next to the stock handle:


4. Remove the knob and jam nut from FRPP handle. Bolt on the FRPP handle to the shifter stub. The torque spec for these bolts is 26 lb-ft, but I torqued them somewhere between 22 and 25 lb-ft.

Update: some have suggested applying medium-strength thread-locker (e.g. Loc-tite 242 blue) on the bolt threads before installing. This will keep the bolts from becoming loose due to vibration. You only need to apply it near the end of the bolt where the threads contact the shifter stub holes - see picture below.


5. Insert the grommet on the handle and push it down to desired position. Install the boot/bezel over the handle but leave it loose for now. Pull the boot opening over the grommet such that it sits in the notch. Screw on the jam nut - with the hex nut side down. Then snap the bezel back in the console. Screw the jam nut all the way down, then screw on the ball knob. You'll have to play around with the knob and jam nut until the shift pattern lines up. Then tighten the jam nut against the ball with a 14mm wrench while holding the ball in the desired position.



And here it is complete - I love the look:
 

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I prob would've gone this route had Ford offered it when I was ready. I wanted that look, so I built the Steeda/Hurst package.
 

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I noticed today that the FRPP shifter handle transmits some noise while cruising at 45MPH and above. It sounds like an air-leak that I can only hear when the radio os turned off. Seems to be a bit louder while in 6th gear. Perhaps it's due to the metal to metal contact between the handle and shifter. The stock handle is completely surrounded by rubber. Oh well, another compromise for installing something cool on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thats why I used a piece of the rubber insulation off of the old shifter handle as a gasket. The handle is farther back now than was the stock handle. When you go into 1st the handle is no where near as far forward. Its about where neutral was with the old one. That takes a liitle getting used to because of the different feel but it feels and looks great.
 

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Thats why I used a piece of the rubber insulation off of the old shifter handle as a gasket. The handle is farther back now than was the stock handle. When you go into 1st the handle is no where near as far forward. Its about where neutral was with the old one. That takes a liitle getting used to because of the different feel but it feels and looks great.
I believe the handle was designed to be bolted directly to the stub otherwise it would have come with other parts. You probably did good to install the rubber gasket but I did not want to chop up the rubber parts from the stock shifter. I did purchase a sheet of 1/8" rubber at ACE HW and may fashion a gasket of my own but right now the noise is not annoying enough for me to do this.

As you pointed out, the feel is certainly different and takes some getting use to as the shifter is now positioned further back, but it does look very cool. Perhaps this handle is better suited for use with the FRPP Short-throw shifter (used in the KR) than the stock shifter. I need an excuse to get a new shifter. :thinkerg:
 

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As tall as I am, I almost have to come out of my seat a little bit for 1-3-6 gears. This sounds like it might address that problem.

Can I use my grabberpony.com shift ball with the FRPP handle?
 

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As tall as I am, I almost have to come out of my seat a little bit for 1-3-6 gears. This sounds like it might address that problem.

Can I use my grabberpony.com shift ball with the FRPP handle?
Hi Jon,

The knob you have currently will not fit the GT500 "KR" style shift lever.

Your knob has a thread size of 12mm x 1.25. The "KR" lever uses the smaller thread of the Hurst shifter (3/8 x 16).

I have added the option "GT500 KR FR#DT-1425 (3/8 x 16)" to the GrabberPony.com website so folks can order a shift knob that will fit this new "KR" lever.

Mark

PS....Here is a link to the new Ford Racing Shift Lever and Knob;
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=99013298
 

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As tall as I am, I almost have to come out of my seat a little bit for 1-3-6 gears. This sounds like it might address that problem.

Can I use my grabberpony.com shift ball with the FRPP handle?
You'll notice the stock handle is offset forward and the FRPP is straight. This will set the handle back in all gears. Takes some getting use to. The stock handle is completely wrapped in rubber - no wonder it feels like mush. The FRPP definately feels firmer, but I found that it does transmit some noise.

Like Mark said, you'll need the knob threaded for 3/8"x 16 to fit the FRPP handle.

 

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The stock handle is completely wrapped in rubber - no wonder it feels like mush.
I agree, I hate the mushy feeling....I missed 4th twice on track at VIR this past weekend, and I hate missed shifts....I'm going to pull the boot and see if removing the rubber and making it solid helps make it more notchy....next step would be the handle, as it could stand to be a bit taller....last option would be replacing the whole shifter, but I hear that is a major undertaking....
 

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I agree, I hate the mushy feeling....I missed 4th twice on track at VIR this past weekend, and I hate missed shifts....I'm going to pull the boot and see if removing the rubber and making it solid helps make it more notchy....next step would be the handle, as it could stand to be a bit taller....last option would be replacing the whole shifter, but I hear that is a major undertaking....
I guess "major" is a relative term. People told me that too, saying you had to drop the engine. I paid to have someone do it, and after seeing it done, I wish I would have done it myself. It's not easy....but not the major thing I thought it would be. I'm thinking about 2-3 hours I could do it without a lift.
 

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I guess "major" is a relative term. People told me that too, saying you had to drop the engine. I paid to have someone do it, and after seeing it done, I wish I would have done it myself. It's not easy....but not the major thing I thought it would be. I'm thinking about 2-3 hours I could do it without a lift.
Without a lift most of the time will be jacking the car up , disconnecting the front DS bolts ,lowering the rear of the transmission so you can access the front mounting points of the shifter. The rest is easy.
 

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Without a lift most of the time will be jacking the car up , disconnecting the front DS bolts ,lowering the rear of the transmission so you can access the front mounting points of the shifter. The rest is easy.
I had to do most of that already putting in the driveshaft safety loops, it was no biggie.
 
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