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Discussion Starter #1
New member with a new to me 2012 Performance Pack. Car has 14k miles with stock size Michelin A/S3 and stock power. I should preface that this is my first car with anything over 350hp and this thing is an absolute monster to me. So whenever I step on this thing in 2nd gear it always starting kicking out, typically the rear goes to the driver left. I've been reading about some adjustable bmr lca to fix "thrust angle". Does this sounds like that or is there a learning curve to get used to.
 

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New member with a new to me 2012 Performance Pack. Car has 14k miles with stock size Michelin A/S3 and stock power. I should preface that this is my first car with anything over 350hp and this thing is an absolute monster to me. So whenever I step on this thing in 2nd gear it always starting kicking out, typically the rear goes to the driver left. I've been reading about some adjustable bmr lca to fix "thrust angle". Does this sounds like that or is there a learning curve to get used to.
Welcome to the forum! Congrats on your first Shelby! 🤟

High horsepower front engine, rear wheel drive cars tend to do this. I have gotten used to it. There are posts here talking about adjustable LCAs that can help tame the rear end. I have non adjustable aftermarket arms on my 2011. Does the ass end step out... YUP! Would adjustable LCAs end the stepping out... I don’t think it would eliminate it entirely, but it might help.

Aftermarket control arms help stiffen-up the rear end, to reduce the wiggle and wheel hop. They are a worthwhile mod and if you are going to change LCAs, you might as well get adjustable ones and see if you can tame the beast with them.

On a different note, if you are up for introducing yourself and showing us your ride, you’ll find our new member area here:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Welcome to the forum! Congrats on your first Shelby! 🤟

High horsepower front engine, rear wheel drive cars tend to do this. I have gotten used to it. There are posts here talking about adjustable LCAs that can help tame the rear end. I have non adjustable aftermarket arms on my 2011. Does the ass end step out... YUP! Would adjustable LCAs end the stepping out... I don’t think it would eliminate it entirely, but it might help.

Aftermarket control arms help stiffen-up the rear end, to reduce the wiggle and wheel hop. They are a worthwhile mod and if you are going to change LCAs, you might as well get adjustable ones and see if you can tame the beast with them.

On a different note, if you are up for introducing yourself and showing us your ride, you’ll find our new member area here:

Yeah I certainly figured there would be some squirrelly-ness to it. And I'll hop on over there and post some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BMR upper and lower control arms, and BMR Watts link did wonders for my 2013.
Did you go adjustable or non-adjustable. I dont plan on lowering it so I wonder if adjustable is needed
 

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Did you go adjustable or non-adjustable. I dont plan on lowering it so I wonder if adjustable is needed
Adjustable is a good idea when lowering, as is an adjustable panhard bar. Some cars come straight from the factory with the rear end not quite aligned whereas others are dialed in nicely. Measure the distance between your front and rear wheels on each side to get an idea how close your car is and then decide.
 
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Did you go adjustable or non-adjustable. I dont plan on lowering it so I wonder if adjustable is needed
Looks like they were level 3 fixed lower control arm with relocation brackets. And an adjustable upper control arm. Here’s a picture of how they were listed on the invoice. They also wanted me to make sure I had an alignment done. Which I did.
624D1B73-03FC-4D1A-851B-B71807FC8C0D.jpeg
 

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You can set your thrust angle to 0 all you want, but when you have a bushing that deflects, like rubber or poly, it's not likely to remain at a 0 thrust angle under power. Adjustable arms usually have a set of rod ends on one end. Rod ends can be harsh on bad roads since there is no deflection and zero "shock" absorption. You have no give in those types of bushings. I would avoid them for street duty unless you drive glass roads. Poly is not as forgiving as rubber and should get you some control back over rubber, but it will introduce some level of NHV into the car. Most don't care, but not everyone likes it. I have all poly bushings in my rear end and I avoid going full power unless the car is straight and I'm quick to lift I feel it's drifting too much in one direction. It is far from stock, however.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good to know, this is a street car for sure and north GA certainly isnt known for silky smooth roads. Sounds to me like it's the latter that's the problem.😅
 

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There are a lot of variables that can cause the issue, but the main problem is a complete loss of traction. I've tried several solutions and I'll still get the back end to drift from time to time. My biggest problem is I have too much power. I ran the adjustable LCAs for a couple months and the rod ends were too harsh for me. On really bad road irregularities, it felt like it was going to rip the brackets out of the unibody. But if you're having these issues with a stock engine and it's not induced by cold weather, you may want to resort to a high performance summer radial. Poly bushed control arms out back do make it more predictable and planted. They just won't completely solve the problem.
 

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Hey Andy2675, I have adjustable LCAs, 373 gears and A/S3s on a 2007. It kicks out or just lights em up under boost in 2nd. I can only imagine what the guys over 700hp go through with street tires must be fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There are a lot of variables that can cause the issue, but the main problem is a complete loss of traction. I've tried several solutions and I'll still get the back end to drift from time to time. My biggest problem is I have too much power. I ran the adjustable LCAs for a couple months and the rod ends were too harsh for me. On really bad road irregularities, it felt like it was going to rip the brackets out of the unibody. But if you're having these issues with a stock engine and it's not induced by cold weather, you may want to resort to a high performance summer radial. Poly bushed control arms out back do make it more predictable and planted. They just won't completely solve the problem.
I haven't driven it any hotter than maybe a 70° day this far. And I was looking at some PS4S if the weather didnt help. Would a 285 be adequate for stock power?
 

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I haven't driven it any hotter than maybe a 70° day this far. And I was looking at some PS4S if the weather didnt help. Would a 285 be adequate for stock power?
285s are what came on the car. Once you go wider, you start to have pinch on the 9.5” wide wheel. You’ll find the 4S tires to be excellent... much better grip than the F1s that came on the car. If you add serious power (blower swap), you’ll want something more than a 285 4S.
 
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I haven't driven it any hotter than maybe a 70° day this far. And I was looking at some PS4S if the weather didnt help. Would a 285 be adequate for stock power?
I'm not sure the 4s would do a whole lot better at those temps, but would improve in warmer temps. 285 shouldn't be too bad, but that's the widest tire you should use with the OEM 9.5" wheel. Bigger tires need wider wheels and that's whole different can of worms. I'm running 325s out back, but it's on an 11.5" wheel. That's about the limit that will fit in the wheel well. Wheel offset is a critical component to fitting wider tires.
 

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Yeah I've heard about 285 being max and I really like the look of the oem wheels so I didnt really wanna buy a set of wheels. I'll take it out for a spin next good weather weekend and see how she does in the warmer weather. Thanks for all the input guys!
 

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I widened the stock rear wheels to 11" and ran 315s for a while. I liked the looks of the stock wheels too. Fronts were 285s in this pic.

213797
 

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There are people who do that. The guy that did mine retired. Weldcraft is still in business. Going to 11" makes for more offset than you want, so wheel spacers can move them out board. I had set of 8mm spacers made up for it. It did require the need for longer wheel studs. Here's an old thread on the process.
 
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