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KB BAP install

13K views 27 replies 9 participants last post by  Hardage 
#1 ·
I talked to Lund today & they advised me I needed to add a BAP & 55# injectors for my Posi ported blower.

I am looking at picking up a used KB BAP & adding to my 11.
I trying to get some info on the wiring & fuse/jumper replacement
I have read quite a few post about fuses blowing so I would like to get it right.

I came across this on SVT.
-Ground to ground
-Pressure switch soldered and hard wired to max.
-Driver side-Blue fused to violet green harness side.
-Drive side-Blue non fused to violet green FPDM side.
-Passenger side-Red fused to violet green harness side.
-Passenger side-Red non fused to violet green FPDM side.

Van posted
(Make sure to install the provided Brass Blade in the proper fuse location and you should not have any issues.)

Anyone know the correct fuse to replace with the jumper?

Thanxs
Colin
 
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#2 · (Edited)
When I was thinking about adding a 10% lower last spring, my tuner told me I would need to add a BAP.

I asked Jeff what was required, and he quoted:

(1) KENNE-KB89063 - Kenne Bell DUAL BOOST-A-PUMP 40 AMP "COMPETITION" ('07 UP SHELBY, FORD M-9407 GT05 DUAL PUMP KIT) 20.5V

(1) SPU-IX-185FH - Spa Electric Fan Wiring Harness, Single, Relay, Sending Unit, Thread-in, 3/8-18 NPT Thread Size, Kitl

(1) PRF-70700 - Painless Electrical Wire, Extreme Condition, 10-Gauge, 25 ft. Long, Red, Each

I asked him what the Spa electric fan wiring harness and 10 gauge wire were for.

Jeff told me the SPA is a nice heavy-duty 40-amp relay with 10AWG wiring.
We use that for the power to the BAP, also why you see the 25’ roll of wire.
That way we get good strong battery voltage to the BAP.

I hope this helps some.

Good Luck
 
#4 ·
Hey guys,
I am trying to find some KB BAP install directions, to find out what fuse to remove in the 11 & replace with the brass blade.
I honestly dont want to go through running wires to the back of the car for power.

What Van posted. KB supplies a blade that replaces the single fuse for the fuel pump. The BAP has fuses.
Did you do this also John?
So I just install as above & replace the stock fuse for the fuel pumps with the KB blade?
Just wanted to check as I see so many people complain about blowing fuses on the 11~12 cars (maybe they did not replace with the blade??)

Thanxs guys appreciate the info

Colin
 
#7 ·
Did you do this also John?
So I just install as above & replace the stock fuse for the fuel pumps with the KB blade?
Just wanted to check as I see so many people complain about blowing fuses on the 11~12 cars (maybe they did not replace with the blade??)
Yes, that's how mine is installed and my understanding this is the 11 up installation. There's only one fuse. I probably have those instructions around here somewhere, but I know I've seen them posted somewhere too.
 
#10 ·
Thanxs Snoopy,
I just got off the phone with Mike @ KB (awesome customer service)
He advised to remove the F13 fuse & replace with the brass blade (I ordered 1 for $6) also advised the pumps are protected by the fuses on the BAP.

I attached what he sent me as it may help others in the future.

Colin
 

Attachments

#13 · (Edited)
I really dislike the idea of using a shorting connector in place of a fuse. When you do that you endanger all the wiring and components between the short and the voltage source. Fuses only protects the wiring and components if the short occurs on the load side of the fuse. If the wire feeding the BAP is accidently shorted to ground, the fuse in the BAP won't protect any of the wiring between the short and the source. You will end up with a smoked wire and melted insulation possibly for the entire length of the wire. Not to mention the damage to the other wires in the wiring harness and the fire hazard.

On the 2013-14 the Battery Junction Box is protected by an 80 amp fuse, this fuse protects the wiring going into the box if there is a short on the load side of fuse. If you replace the #13 fuse with a shorting clip, maybe you will luck out and this fuse will blow before any damage is done. I wouldn't count on the wire that feeds the #13 fuse and the wiring going to the BAP standing up to that kind of load.
 
#15 ·
Sorry for the Snoopy induced paranoia.
I was wrong about the 80 amp fuse, it protects the Smart Junction box.
There doesn't seem to be any fuses between the battery and the Battery Junction Box that protect the feed on the supply side of the Battery Junction Box.

You may need to use 2 external relays that would be controlled by ignition switch to control the voltage to the BAP. You would need to fuse (30 amp) them at the supply side of the relay. This is basically what Ford did in the 2013-14 Mustangs.

Here is the wiring diagram for a 2013-14

Text Technical drawing Diagram Line Floor plan


Text Line Technical drawing Diagram Floor plan
 
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#16 ·
I found the wiring diagrams for a 2011 Mustang 5.4
It looks like you already have 2 separate wires going back to the rear that you can use. Unfortunately it looks like you will have to cut into the wiring harness to get to them.

2011 Service Manual

Text Technical drawing Diagram Floor plan Plan


Text Floor plan Technical drawing Diagram Plan
 
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#21 ·
Idk why you need a bap on a ported blower, I ran mine for years with a 2.4 upper on stock fuel system verified through data logs. As mentioned when pushing the 700whp mark the VMP plug n play bap would be my choice.
 
#22 ·
Tuner (Lund) says I need a BAP & 55# injectors for the Posi Ported Eaton.
To be honest I was surprised that I needed the fuel upgrades BUT if they say its needed to get a safe tune then its the route I will go.
We are talking $200 so for me well worth it if the car has sufficient fuel needs & if I decide to swap out to a different blower down the road I am set.
Lots of guys like the plug-n-play route & yes it would be easier but not the route I wanted to go.

Conversation below


Jan 6, 10:33 AM
Morning,
I picked up a Posi ported Eaton w/high flow elbow & 2.4 for my 2011 GT500.
Can you tell me if I need an updated tune? Are the stock 47# injectors okay for fuel needs?
My current setup:2011 GT500 w/SVTPP
Eaton w/2.5
jlt 127
CJ dual 65
3.73's
Thanxs
Colin

Jon II (Lund Racing Support)
Jan 6,
No, you'll need larger injectors and a BAP for that boost level.
Jon II

Jan 6,
Thanxs for the reply Jon,
so 55# injectors & a BAP in my 2011?
Colin

Jon II (Lund Racing Support)
Jan 6,
Yes sir.
Jon II
 
#23 ·
You could run a huge whipple or kb with that setup but I agree there's no such thing as to much fuel upgrades and odds are you'll go to a bigger blower later anyways.
 
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#24 · (Edited)
I have a trinity sitting in the shop I was going to swap out, I liked the sound/whine of the posi blower so wanted to try it.
I may go with a KB or Whipple next time around??

When you ran the Posi blower did you use the 07~09 elbow? I am looking to see what's needed to use that elbow (EVAP Sensor Relocation Kit) or buy a 10 up elbow.

Thanxs

Colin
 
#25 ·
I do miss that posi ported sound sometimes, nothing like it. I did use the 09 elbow with the little hose and extension sensor from vmp for about 25 if I remember right. Used it again on my whipple install rather than cut my evap line and use their bracket.
 
#27 ·
I installed the KB BAP in my car today & figured I may as well add a few pictures.
The install is easy & straightforward, basically cut & unravel some tape to expose the 2 wires (violet w/green strip)

Ground to ground
Pressure switch wires soldered.
Driver side-Blue fused to violet w/green harness side.
Drive side-Blue non fused to violet w/green FPDM side.
Passenger side-Red fused to violet w/ green harness side.
Passenger side-Red non fused to violet w/ green FPDM side.




Pull the F13/25A fuse & replace with the KB fuse jumper

KB fuse jumper


Colin
 
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