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Below are the settings for my car shown above^^^ with 275/35 front tires and oem 2008 strut mounts on the Eibach coilovers that are adjusted as low as they will go............



^^^^No CC plates and I do have my front tires tilted in slightly at the top to gain a little front end traction in turns, but not far enough to get out of spec. tire wear. The alignment could probably be tweeked a little more, but the Ford tech told me that I would not see any abnormal tire wear with those settings, and I do not.

R
That's a pretty good street setup for maximum tire life. Remember that Toe determines how fast the tires wear, camber determines where on the tire that wear happens. As you can see, up to -1.5 degrees is still within factory specs for the vehicle
 

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KEN (#1) 2008 Metalic Vista Blue Convertible Stripe Delete w/some Stripes
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Since we've already completely derailed this thread... Ken, how is the septic system? I like to dump all sorts of things you're not supposed to down the drain, so I'm hesitant there, but most larger pieces of property are going to force me to go septic.
Septic is just fine, never an issue. Not sure what you are calling "all sorts of stuff" ?
If it is biodegradable it's OK, but car parts---NOPE. Engine oil, gas, no! If it belongs in a toilet, yes.
Most States require a tank to be pumped out when a new owner takes possession, just be sure that is done, even with a lease. You would have no idea what someone dumped in it before they left, just have it be in a lease and/or sale contract. You can stipulate it on the lease that it must be done and that YOU will have it done upon leaving. That would be the fairest thing to do.

Wait, isn't this the GT500 Septic Tank Thread !
 
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Wait, isn't this the GT500 Septic Tank Thread !
No! Y'all have taken my thread to a whole new low.

But, there's hope yet. I swapped out my #250 rear springs with a #225 set and the car feels better already. I've been doing some analyzing on available springs and spring rates to see what to do on the front end and it's a toss up between a #300 and a #325 front spring in a 10" length. Eibach makes both and I'm leaning toward the #325. The SVTPP springs are ~#235 and my current coil over springs are #380, in an 8" length. There are very few springs in a 9" length and none of those options gain me much more height than I have now. The 10" lengths gain me over 1" increase in compressed height and I have a little over 2" in adjustment to work with on the spring seat.
 

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No! Y'all have taken my thread to a whole new low.

But, there's hope yet. I swapped out my #250 rear springs with a #225 set and the car feels better already. I've been doing some analyzing on available springs and spring rates to see what to do on the front end and it's a toss up between a #300 and a #325 front spring in a 10" length. Eibach makes both and I'm leaning toward the #325. The SVTPP springs are ~#235 and my current coil over springs are #380, in an 8" length. There are very few springs in a 9" length and none of those options gain me much more height than I have now. The 10" lengths gain me over 1" increase in compressed height and I have a little over 2" in adjustment to work with on the spring seat.
I was just quoted #275 front springs or #300 for street.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I was just quoted #275 front springs or #300 for street.
Thanks, for that info. I haven't placed the order yet. I have other items in my basket that I need to double check before I make the order. The main reason I was leaning toward #325 is that was the lower range included in Maximum Motorsports range of spring recommendations with a double adjustable Koni sport. The single adjustable range went down to #275. Which struts are you purchasing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Disclosure: There's no question here. It's just a day in the life of a Shelby fanatic and OCD sufferer.

I thought I'd update this thread since it's a little too cold for this ******* and I'm losing interest in this public spectacle of a political agenda disguised as a public impeachment hearing. I went ahead and ordered some 10" 325# springs some time back and took off the driver's side strut last week now that it has gotten cooler. After removing the spring, I realized these are more of a custom spring and are barrel shaped. I'm reluctant to use what I bought in light of that feature, so I looked at some spring options from the manufacturer and also found a possible spring made by Eibach for circle track racing. While I found suitable replacements, I decided to put the car back together for a later time when I had parts lined up. The main reason I was going to replace the spring was the amount of difference in spring adjustment side to side. It took a higher mounting position to level the car from the driver's side spring seat, which made me think I had a bad spring. I also wanted to try a slightly lower spring rate. The ride has improved since I started this in leveling out the car and dropping the spring rate in the rear.

I always thought my camber was more negative on the driver's side than the passenger side and both were adjusted to the max adjustment on the strut mount (camber/caster plate) to the positive side, although both are still negative angles. I used a tool made by Tenhulzen to set toe in and have not been to an alignment shop to check camber angles. I didn't see the point if both struts were at the maximum allowable angle,or so I thought.

I bought these coil overs used, so I had no instructions to avoid any pitfalls. Not that strut replacement is high tech either. I got my old struts out and removed the spring and discovered the barrel feature and decided to put it back together to decide what to do for a replacement with two options. I played around with the strut mounts to make sure I had the strut mount oriented correctly. Both sets have adjustable camber, but are of different manufacture. I discovered that the "slider" portion of the strut mount for the coil overs were specific to which side they were placed. I suspect I had that side's sliders in backwards, which would restrict adjustment toward positive camber. If you look at my pictures in ROTM, you may notice the camber difference. I do.

I've reinstalled the strut, and the positioning of the strut mount looks oriented better than it was, but the car is still on stands for now. I figured I'd hold off getting another spring until I explore this discovery more thoroughly, since it may be my problem all along. My intention was to also install a larger pulley on the supercharger, and try to determine the source of a bearing noise from one of the front drive pullies, or maybe even the supercharger. I honestly thought the Gen 3 was the source since it seemed to start with that installation, but after putting my hand on the snout while it was running, I would have suspected some "feeling" or vibration transmitted to the snout. There was none. Coincidentally, the noise started about the same time I got my hearing aids, so may also have been there prior to the install, but it seems to be getting louder, especially since it's getting colder. So, I figured it was an idler pulley or the alternator or the a/c clutch.

It's easier to access the belt tensioners while my car is on stands with the Maximum Motorsports K-member and radiator support. After removing the front accessory belt I knew it had to be something on the supercharger drive belt. The problem was all supercharger idlers had been replaced with light weight BPS pullies, so they're low miles. I also changed the idler on my Thump tensioner with an aluminum billet pulley that I believe I got from VMP, which is a lot lighter than the heavy steel pulley that came with the Thump. That bearing has play and I think is what I was hearing, or at least appears to be the most likely idler. Rather than replace the bearing, I ordered another billet pulley with double bearings from Thump. I figure is there's a place for two bearings, it would be in that position.

I'm waiting on that pulley to put it all back together (not to mention old, lazy and retired) to see what happens with the suspension. Just goes to show, even "seasoned" part-time wrenches can pull off stupid shit from time to time.
 

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I've just began to get some squeal when cold, so I need to chase the same thing. I've been lazy lately, so I might just start throwing money at it and order a new tensioner and pulleys. Are you happy with the Thump and BPS stuff? I'm currently running the original VMP 90mm idler, tried spraying some water around to see if the squeal would go away, but no easy luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Thump was the only game in town when I bought mine. It's obviously overbuilt based on the stock unit and has more tension over stock too. It's a very stout piece. I have heard of people breaking them, but I also think you need to size your belt correctly too. I have to think the breakage is a result of a belt that's too tight. VMP made one for a while and I'm not sure Thump didn't make it for them. A new tensioner is on the market made by American Racing Solutions and it's a little cheaper than Thump's, and you can purchase it without the big steel idler pulley. I don't think you could go wrong with either one.

The BPS stuff is pretty slick. Just realize you'll never really see them after they're installed. But they obviously take less energy to spin. If you compare Ford's idler prices to theirs, it's not horribly expensive. The only billet piece I got for the accessory drive was the water pump pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
So, while my spring adjustment isn't quite as high as it was to level the car, it's still higher than the passenger side. To add insult to injury, I find that the rebound adjustment has a range of 3/4 of a turn on the passenger side to over 2 turns on the driver's side. I'm not sure if one or both of these are broken (i.e. over adjusted), or how the hell I'm supposed to calibrate these side to side. When I reinstalled the spring, I thought the strut rod was bit too easy to move, but with nothing to judge, it's got me wondering just what I have. So, while I may get these rebuilt, I've thrown in the towel and have something else on order. I'll start another thread for that.

Note to self: Never buy used suspension equipment of unknown origin with precision adjustment features.
 

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G
So, while my spring adjustment isn't quite as high as it was to level the car, it's still higher than the passenger side. To add insult to injury, I find that the rebound adjustment has a range of 3/4 of a turn on the passenger side to over 2 turns on the driver's side. I'm not sure if one or both of these are broken (i.e. over adjusted), or how the hell I'm supposed to calibrate these side to side. When I reinstalled the spring, I thought the strut rod was bit too easy to move, but with nothing to judge, it's got me wondering just what I have. So, while I may get these rebuilt, I've thrown in the towel and have something else on order. I'll start another thread for that.

Note to self: Never buy used suspension equipment of unknown origin with precision adjustment features.
Geez, that's a kick in the teeth. Especially with all the difficulty of installation and removal. Sure hope the replacements are to your liking! Remember you've got orders to have all mods completed and ready for the trip to Shelbyfest this Spring!! With all the help and guidance you've provided over the years on this forum, I don't think you'll ever have to buy a drink at the Capitol Plaza bar!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
I'm sort of getting to be a pro at replacing them and is a one day project at most. These will have to be built, so it could be next year before I receive them. I'm sticking with my same rear shock setup for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
I think the suspension forum needs some love. Wow! 6 months already. Well I had to wait a couple of months to get my new struts, only to have my car involved in a parking lot scrape with an extended body shop experience, followed by vertigo trigged by my allergies and of course spring had to end because the weather can't be pleasant when I perform this swap.

So here they are. The strut on the left is the Koni double adjustable made by Ground Control and sold by Grigg's racing as part of their suspension upgrades, and the one on the right is Maximum Motorsports collaboration with JRi Shocks on their strut package.

201516


Ground Control uses a shorter strut body, while MM has basically a stock sized strut. However, you may notice that the shock length is adjustable by virtue of the spindle mount bracket. It would take a shorter sway bar link to pull that off.

The 8" spring on the GC is #380, and I wanted less spring rate this go round, so I got a 10" #325 spring. While the GC strut mounts are prettier, the MM mounts have better engineered adjustability, IMO. The GC unit needed more compression on the driver side spring and I had it all the way to the end of the collar while still having full thread contact. I lowered the locking collar as depicted above. So I suspect the spring was either weak or the geometry is further thrown out of whack when the suspension was lowered as much as it was in this configuration. A lower rate 10" spring might resolve that issue, but because of the rebound adjustments so far apart, these struts need to be rebuilt. The other strut appears to be leaking fluid.

Install was typical, but I had some concern that the adjustable mount for the sway bar mount was going to impact wheel clearance. I was right. While I don't think anything rubbed, it couldn't have had but a hair of clearance. Since I had 1/4" spacers I used these to mount the wheels. They bring my offset to 38mm from 44mm, but the tire is flush with the fender, so I may leave them. The front wheel studs are longer than the rear, so there is 9 threads contact, which is fine.

While I was doing this, I noted some debris just above the middle bolt on the supercharger snout. After cleaning it off, it's apparent my hood is hitting the supercharger. CRAP! Luckily, I have some adjustable engine mounts and lowered the engine 1/4". I'm going to need different sway bar mounts because there's no clearance between the sway bar and lower barb on the oil cooler adapter. It's okay at ride height, only making contact when the suspension is fully extended. The universal mount I'm using has a very wide range of mounting hole distances, and as such is longer than it needs to be, which impacts it's location with my MM K-member. I don't like the BMR sway bar mount provided with the bar. It just seems to be low durometer bushing for a sway bar of this size. I found one from Ride Tech that has a delrin insert with a more compact bracket.

I finished up during a pop-up thunderstorm yesterday and the humidity was ramping up enough to shut down and leave it on the Race Ramps. Once I removed the jack stands, the front end was a little higher than the tire gap in the rear, but overnight it's settled to where they're even. I suspect it may settle a little more once I start driving it. In fact the spring collar I set it at (same as photo) leaves me a lot of room to go up or down. I don't see lowering it any more than it sits now. I had too may bottoming experiences at the previous ride height. I don't know if I don't need to replace the front splittler again. This one has taken a beating in the last year since my car was put back in commission.

I'm off to get it off the ramps and line up the toe. I'll update once I get the struts dialed in. JRi makes this much easier to do than Koni. Now to figure out what's wrong with the F-150. I may wait a few days.
 

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6 months goes fast doesn't it John...lol. Since you've been playing with clearances and I've been considering doing something crazy, do you think the width of the bags will cause wheel/tire clearance issues?

201548
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
6 months goes fast doesn't it John...lol. Since you've been playing with clearances and I've been considering doing something crazy, do you think the width of the bags will cause wheel/tire clearance issues?
I was also super busy between the fender bender and the stay-at-home order commencement, so yes definitely. Once the stay-at-home started, I just didn't venture out and my allergies kept me pinned indoors for the most part. By nature of my job, I'm busy that time of year and was so looking forward to being outside for the few cool months we have. I'm hoping it's due to the weird winter, or lack thereof, we had this year. But, stay-at-home and other subsequent events have warped my perception of time.

As depicted, those struts quite possibly could be problematic, regardless of front tire. The diameter of those bases are very large and would need to be higher than the tread pad of a mounted tire for what would seem any wheel/tire combination. I see adjustment threads, so if it's possible to lift the base of the bags, you should be able to get the necessary clearance. I don't know enough about bags to know if that's a detriment to their performance or not. For reference these are 2.5" i.d. coil-over springs. I don't know the o.d., but I'd say 3 1/4" off hand. The base of my collar sits below the top of the tire when viewed from the side at ride height, which is right in the middle of the cross section. I even raised them 1/4" more after I got it off the ramps yesterday. If they settle some more, I may be doing that again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
What an improvement!! I don't know if it's the reduction in spring rate or if the Koni's are just in dire need of a rebuild, or both, but I like my car again. Can you go too low? I think you can. I've done enough research as well as experience, springs that are too stiff for comfort, geometry changes that detract from performnce and little difficulty in bottoming the suspension in every day driving. I came across something on Cortex's website that recommended you stay within a 4.7"-5.3" ride height as measured from the lowest points on the front and rear of the car and I'm right in the middle. Now to find the sweet spot for rebound and compression settings.
 

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Glad to hear it...also going to go measure and see where I'm sitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·

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Discussion Starter · #79 · (Edited)
So fast forward through summer and various spring adjustments and replacements, I'm happy with the ride height. I've been fighting a lower driver side since I took off the stock springs. Between 2 sets of struts and 3 sets of springs, this issue persisted. After watching a recent episode of Roadkill Garage fighting the same problem, it's apparent that the factory often compensates for weight and height differences with different spring rates or free spring heights. My solution was to bite the bullet and only adjust the driver's side to get it level. What was interesting is adjustments on the driver side also contributed to an increases in ride height on the passenger side in smaller increments, so I resorted to lowering the passenger side. It's level and I have more suspension travel from the increase in ride height. I don't have much seat time in this iteration yet.

Since I decreased the spring rate up front from 380# to 325#, I felt like I needed to drop the spring rate out back. I thought I had a set of 200# coil-overs to replace the 225#, but after going through my springs, they were no where to be found. I know I sold a set and it was probably those as opposed to some 175# springs, because I have those. I had a set of 185# that were 12" long coil-overs that I ran for a while without adjusters earlier in the game and I threw them in there to try out.

I took it off the ramps this past week and so far, so good. It's not as low as it was, but I think the stance came out pretty good. I took a quick snapshot this morning.

207204

Here's the before shot for comparison. It's not a drastic change, but the second shot is taken from a longer distance from the camera, so the depth of field is not going to be the same.
207205

Bear in mind, in the before shot, this was the higher side. It was almost 1/2" lower on the opposite side. The following shot was taken from a low angle too.
207207
 

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So fast forward through summer and various spring adjustments and replacements, I'm happy with the ride height. I've been fighting a lower driver side since I took off the stock springs. Between 2 sets of struts and 3 sets of springs, this issue persisted. After watching a recent episode of Roadkill Garage fighting the same problem, it's apparent that the factory often compensates for weight and height differences with different spring rates or free spring heights. My solution was to bite the bullet and only adjust the driver's side to get it level. What was interesting is adjustments on the driver side also contributed to an increases in ride height on the passenger side in smaller increments, so I resorted to lowering the passenger side. It's level and I have more suspension travel from the increase in ride height. I don't have much seat time in this iteration yet.

Since I decreased the spring rate up front from 380# to 325#, I felt like I needed to drop the spring rate out back. I thought I had a set of 200# coil-overs to replace the 225#, but after going through my springs, they were no where to be found. I know I sold a set and it was probably those as opposed to some 175# springs, because I have those. I had a set of 185# that were 12" long coil-overs that I ran for a while without adjusters earlier in the game and I threw them in there to try out.

I took it off the ramps this past week and so far, so good. It's not as low as it was, but I think the stance came out pretty good. I took a quick snapshot this morning.

View attachment 207204
Here's the before shot for comparison. It's not a drastic change, but the second shot is taken from a longer distance from the camera, so the perspective is not going to be the same.
View attachment 207205
Bear in mind, in the before shot, this was the higher side. It was almost 1/2" lower on the opposite side.
I like it Cat!!

It looks Good to me, I also like those wheels and tire profiles!!

R
 
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