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Discussion Starter #22
How about yours as well?
That's a loaded question. The rear is 11.5x20 with a 325/30-20 Michelin Sport Cup 2. Offset in the rear is 63 mm. The fronts are 10x20 wheels with 285/35-20 Sport Cup 2s. Front offset is 44 mm. I have another thread detailing the wheel project. The wheels are True Forged Competitions.
 

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That's a loaded question. The rear is 11.5x20 with a 325/30-20 Michelin Sport Cup 2. Offset in the rear is 63 mm. The fronts are 10x20 wheels with 285/35-20 Sport Cup 2s. Front offset is 44 mm. I have another thread detailing the wheel project. The wheels are True Forged Competitions.
That is an awesome setup!
 

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2007 GT500 Torch Red/White custom
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The stance is right on imo. I run eibach sports on mine.

Joe
 

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Looks Great!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Last night I took a yard stick with checked the left to right measurements and I'm a little lower on the driver's side front. I need to set the toe on the car and I have alignment plates to do that, but I will try to get the front level before I do that and see where it land me. I think I got a call back from the dealership, but of course they didn't leave a message.
 

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Love the wheels, love the ride height.

I just don't like the 30% profile tires. On any car.

As much as I prefer the widest tire that could possibly fit, I would prolly have to dial it back to a 305/35 cause the 315/35 is just too tall as you have hinted at.

BTW, appreciate all your tire/wheel/fitment threads this winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
The 325/30 still has as much sidewall as the stock 285/35, but with the lowered ride height it just looks a lot lower standing next to it than the pictures portray. In fact the rev per mile data on both tires is identical at 750. On the other hand, I can't image it's more than an inch lower than it was before either. Looking at the other pictures posted, I can't imagine I'm any lower than most of those cars. But yeah, I wouldn't mind more sidewall and less rim.

Finally talked to Ford yesterday. They say to bring the car in, so they can get the parts ordered. Sounds like a useless step, but I plan on playing their game and doing that Monday. I'm going to crank the adjusters on the front to get a little less negative camber on the front tires and get the toe adjusted. I see my inspection is expired too.

Best I can figure is the height change is supposed to be in the 2.5" range, although I don't think my car was at the stock ride height either. Just by nature of the SVTPP, I know it's lower and it dropped further with the strut mounts I was using in addition to the Koni Sport struts I installed previously.
 

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2008 Vapor/Black Coupe
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I like it John. As you know, I'm about to do the same thing with a slightly shorter rear tire, so I appreciate the pics to see the difference. How close are you to the bumpstops?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I really need to take a peak and see. I know the rear springs have probably settled since I installed them. I'm using Maximum Motorsports shortened bump stops and I think I trimmed a little more off of it to make up for the thickness of the relocation bracket. I'd shoot for ~3/8" of clearance. I've seen some lowered cars that were already compressing the bump stops at ride height. I know the later snubbers Ford used are softer than the stock stuff on the earlier cars. The MM snubbers are pretty soft too. MM Snubbers
 

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2010 Shelby GT500 Kona Blue/Silver stripes
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Pretty sexy John. I like the look, and I think once you get the front end adjusted you should drive it for a while to see how it feels. I'm sure you already know this, but approach speed bumps at an angle when lowered. Walk the tires over the bump one at a time, and I think you'll be fine. That's what I do, but as you know, I'm not quite as low as you.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
So I had one coil over with a loose adjuster lock that allowed the adjuster to unscrew about a half turn and that was causing the driver side to sit lower than the passenger side and raise the passenger side rear slightly as a result. I adjusted the spring to level the front and locked the adjuster in place so the adjuster stays put. I also set the toe-in with Tenhulzen alignment plates. For $99, I was pretty impressed with the results. After a little more than a week of looking at it, I'm getting used to the stance, but I have an idea on how to get more clearance for my resonators, so it's back on the ramps to see if I can improve my pipe clearance.
 

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2010 Shelby GT500 Kona Blue/Silver stripes
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So I had one coil over with a loose adjuster lock that allowed the adjuster to unscrew about a half turn and that was causing the driver side to sit lower than the passenger side and raise the passenger side rear slightly as a result. I adjusted the spring to level the front and locked the adjuster in place so the adjuster stays put. I also set the toe-in with Tenhulzen alignment plates. For $99, I was pretty impressed with the results. After a little more than a week of looking at it, I'm getting used to the stance, but I have an idea on how to get more clearance for my resonators, so it's back on the ramps to see if I can improve my pipe clearance.
Finding that adjuster loose had to make you feel good. No mystery anymore, and you were able to fix it.

You know the dealership is going to call you just as soon as the car is back up on the ramps!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Yeah, I was thinking weak spring. The dealer called back last week. They said to bring it in so they can order parts. I don't understand why I have to do that, but I'll play their little game.

If I invert my mid pipe, it will raise the resonators. I'll have to add new bungs for the rear O2s, but this looks easier to accomplish than cutting and welding the pipes. Adding a 1/2" lowering engine mount will also raise the end of the header and the exit for the mid-pipe.
 

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2010 Shelby GT500 Kona Blue/Silver stripes
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Yeah, I was thinking weak spring. The dealer called back last week. They said to bring it in so they can order parts. I don't understand why I have to do that, but I'll play their little game.

If I invert my mid pipe, it will raise the resonators. I'll have to add new bungs for the rear O2s, but this looks easier to accomplish than cutting and welding the pipes. Adding a 1/2" lowering engine mount will also raise the end of the header and the exit for the mid-pipe.
Wish I was closer so I could help you. That pipe work would be easier with two sets of hands. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
So I have 300 miles on this setup and I'm used to the stance, but my ground clearance is pretty low for our crap roads. The other day I spotted a big chunk of concrete sitting in the middle of the road and I coundn't change lanes and I couldn't stop, so I centered it as best I could and closed my eyes. Unbelievably, no impact. I think I could use a little more suspension travel too. I don't bottom out the suspension a lot, but enough to think a slight increase in ride height can't hurt. Being as low as it is sure makes getting it up on the ramps a PITA too. I have to use jack stands with the ramps to get underneath it. I'm going to take this real slow, perhaps a 1/4" and give it a few hundred miles and see if it helps. I think I can still get some more clearance out of the exhaust system while I'm at it.
 

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So I have 300 miles on this setup and I'm used to the stance, but my ground clearance is pretty low for our crap roads. The other day I spotted a big chunk of concrete sitting in the middle of the road and I coundn't change lanes and I couldn't stop, so I centered it as best I could and closed my eyes. Unbelievably, no impact. I think I could use a little more suspension travel too. I don't bottom out the suspension a lot, but enough to think a slight increase in ride height can't hurt. Being as low as it is sure makes getting it up on the ramps a PITA too. I have to use jack stands with the ramps to get underneath it. I'm going to take this real slow, perhaps a 1/4" and give it a few hundred miles and see if it helps. I think I can still get some more clearance out of the exhaust system while I'm at it.
Wow that was a close call! Something like that would say good bye to my front carbon fiber!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I thought it would have hit my resonators. If I thought it was high enough to take out the spoiler, I probably would have locked up the brakes regardless. It was one of those split second decisions. While I haven't hit them on anything yet, I have to wonder how close I've been. I was under car recently to jack up the rear end so I could turn up the compression setting on the rear shocks, and there's just not much clearance at my current ride height for the exhaust. But's its too low for me to get a measurement. I also think my camber angle is still a bit much for the front tires even though I have it adjusted all the way. I think a quarter inch up front would be perfect. I may not need to mess with the rear end because I have more tire gap in the rear than up front.
 
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