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I'm thinking about installing a lift in my garage prior to my 2020 GT500 arriving. This would be less for the garage space, and more to prevent kid bikes/etc. from running into the car.

Has anyone done this? If so, could you share your experience and/or provide company recommendations?

I'd also need to modify my garage door to have it open vertically, as it is currently cutting into my ceiling space. My garage ceilings are about 11' high, so I should be able to get a decent amount of clearance after modifying the way the door opens. If anyone has suggests/experience to share on this, I'd appreciate that as well.

Thanks!
Jason
 

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I'm thinking about installing a lift in my garage prior to my 2020 GT500 arriving. This would be less for the garage space, and more to prevent kid bikes/etc. from running into the car.

Has anyone done this? If so, could you share your experience and/or provide company recommendations?

I'd also need to modify my garage door to have it open vertically, as it is currently cutting into my ceiling space. My garage ceilings are about 11' high, so I should be able to get a decent amount of clearance after modifying the way the door opens. If anyone has suggests/experience to share on this, I'd appreciate that as well.

Thanks!
Jason
Your first decision tree is a 2-post or 4-post lift. Each have their pros & cons. A 2-poster is good for maintenance but not desirable for storing a car longer term. A 4-poster is excellent for storing a car as well as some maintenance like oil changes. A separate jack will be required for any maintenance that needs weight off the wheels. A 4-post lift also does not require drilling into your slab... it can be free-standing. A 4-post lift also distributes the weight more if you are concerned about your slab thickness.

Other decisions: 2-post symmetric vs asymmetric and power (110/220).

After researching a bunch of lifts, I went with Bendpak. I have their tallest 2-poster and two of their 4-posters. The quality, steel thickness and safety features are what drove me to Bendpak. There are cheaper lifts on the market, but you get what you pay for. Make sure whatever lift you end up buying is certified. Some of the cheap models are not.

As for your garage door, some members have dealt with that... maybe @fletchffletch.

My youngest son doing an oil change:

98DD9684-3B54-4F81-932E-233C39FBDED0.jpeg
 

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Funny. The timing on your post. Just got the go ahead from my wife last night on my lift. I had 4 new doors installed on my garage this past summer. All with high lift kits in preparation for lift/lifts. I have a Steel Valley Lift 7000 Workforce Lift(formerly Backyard Buddy) that should arrive in March. Hoping in the future to add a 2 post. Probably Bendpak. I had my garage built with a 12’ ceiling. Pretty excited. :p
 

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I'll post some pics up in a few minutes.

@Goose17 nailed the pros/cons of 2 vs. 4 post so I won't rehash that. I went with a 4 post lift because I wanted the storage / stacking. I haven't yet bit on the accessory to lift 2 of the wheels off the lift, but I have a QuickJack that I continue to use, most recently as of yesterday in replacing a rear shock on my vehicle.

Anyway, my ceiling is 11' as well. I did a TON, repeat TON, of measuring, laying out tape on the floor and walls trying to "see" what the fit would ultimately be. I even created a spreadsheet that I used to "visualize" and "check" the fitment -- my version of a CAD drawing so to speak. Also, I measured my vehicles -- height from floor to top of roof, width from mirror to mirror (outside), width from tire to tire to ensure fitment. Different lifts have different lift height settings and different measurements between each lift height setting...some have 4" between each lift height setting, some have 6", etc.. Also, I'm 6'3" so I wanted to understand, based on the lift height setting, if I could stand straight up without hitting my head, or if I'd have to duck, or crouch or what.

So, after all that, I went with the Direct Lift Pro Park 8 Plus Long.


Now for the garage door. I had to get a high lift door installed. I went with LiftMaster and have been well pleased. You can see in the pics where the top of my garage door is and that is where the door rails used to be. Now they are much higher as you can see in the pic, and would be even higher if I didn't have that structural "notch" in my ceiling, which I could do nothing about. In the end, the "notch" didn't cost me anything -- everything fit as I expected and frankly even better.

Hopefully, @Norton will chime in with his thoughts, as he went with a Direct Lift 4 post lift as well.

And @BLKwRD14 is just about to get a lift, so he might have something to add.
 

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I'm thinking about installing a lift in my garage prior to my 2020 GT500 arriving. This would be less for the garage space, and more to prevent kid bikes/etc. from running into the car.

Has anyone done this? If so, could you share your experience and/or provide company recommendations?

I'd also need to modify my garage door to have it open vertically, as it is currently cutting into my ceiling space. My garage ceilings are about 11' high, so I should be able to get a decent amount of clearance after modifying the way the door opens. If anyone has suggests/experience to share on this, I'd appreciate that as well.
I installed a lift in my garage for vehicle storage and maintenance purposes. Like your garage, my ceiling height is about 11ft, which is plenty of room to stack two cars. Most of the details and a number of questions/answers are available in my The Man Cave is Coming Together thread. Based on your described requirement... High-lifting your garage door requires replacement of the tracks, bringing them within a few inches of the ceiling, and installation of a jack-shaft garage door opener. I recommend a 4-post lift. They're more stable than 2-post varieties so they don't require drilling/bolting to the floor and better-distribute weight on floors that weren't originally designed/poured to support a lift. They're also more suitable to long-term vehicle storage.

It's been a couple of years since I did the research and this site limits the time during which posts can be edited, so some of the links in my thread are probably outdated. I went with a LiftMaster 8500W jack-shaft garage door opener. As @fletchffletch said, I chose DirectLift for several reasons. First, their ProPark 8S lift was the best fit for my available space. Their lifts are ALI-certified, which was an important safety consideration. Third, their lifts operate on 110V, which is easier/cheaper to install than 220V. Fourth, their locking mechanism doesn't require compressed air to disengage, making for a simpler/cheaper install. Finally, they include at no extra charge a number of accessories (i.e., casters, drip trays, and jack tray) for which other manufacturers charge extra. To facilitate wheel/suspension work, I added a ProJack 3500 when I bought the lift. I found DirectLift's Ceiling Height Calculator useful when researching options.

Pricing varies from one distributor/retailer to another, so it usually pays to shop around. FWIW, my costs (including delivery, installation, and tax) were ~$1K the high-lift door and opener; and $3K for the ProPark 8S and ProJack 3500.
196041
196042
 

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Here are some pics










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have the same openers Kris. Battery back-up and WiFi! Nice to be able to open/close and check status on my phone.
 

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this site limits the time during which posts can be edited, so some of the links in my thread are probably outdated.
Have another look. There is no longer an edit time limit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone for the very helpful information. I’m thinking the Direct Lift ProPark 8S and LiftMaster setup would be perfect for my space. I’ve been wanting to get my garage floor coated, so I should probably get that done first. Lots of stuff to get scheduled to ease the painful wait for my car to be built :).
 

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Thanks everyone for the very helpful information. I’m thinking the Direct Lift ProPark 8S and LiftMaster setup would be perfect for my space. I’ve been wanting to get my garage floor coated, so I should probably get that done first. Lots of stuff to get scheduled to ease the painful wait for my car to be built :).
If you do an epoxy type coating, put rubber mats underneath your lift posts. I used rubber no-slip shelf matting that came with my tool chest under each of my 4-post legs.
 

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I have the same openers Kris. Battery back-up and WiFi! Nice to be able to open/close and check status on my phone.
+1. Getting alerts any time the doors open/close and being able to control them from anywhere are great features.

Have another look. There is no longer an edit time limit.
Nice! Thank you.

Interestingly, my (two) posts in this thread are the only ones I recall editing in recent memory, but I received a "You may not edit more than 10 different post(s) within 7 days" error when I tried to update the links in my old post. :unsure:

Thanks everyone for the very helpful information. I’m thinking the Direct Lift ProPark 8S and LiftMaster setup would be perfect for my space. I’ve been wanting to get my garage floor coated, so I should probably get that done first. Lots of stuff to get scheduled to ease the painful wait for my car to be built :).
I think you'll be happy with both. Several of us also coated our garage floors, so holler if you have questions in that arena too.
 

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I have the same openers Kris. Battery back-up and WiFi! Nice to be able to open/close and check status on my phone.
Yes, sir! I forgot to mention those features, Jon -- very handy!

And as @Norton, mentioned the casters, jack tray and drip trays were nice things included in the package. And the ability to use 110V was appealing. There are times I wish the 110V was faster with raising but it's not anywhere enough for me to wish I would have upgraded to the 220V (and the added cost of electrician to install a 220V).

@Norton -- Z06 is looking sharp! (y) A GT500 and a Z06 -- love it! I bet you are dying for spring to get to the Rockies.
 

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I went with Bendpak and a 4 post HD9 model with a jack. All in with casters, trays and extended ramps I was a little over $4,000. I also went 220 on the motor and have air in my shop so I felt the air locks were an added safety feature. It requires me to get the air out to release the locks. The jackshaft openers are a must-have for clearance. And have your installer put your tracks as close to the ceiling as possible when they do the opener. It is costly to do but you will be so glad it is completed when done. I use my lift ALL the time.

Tom
 

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Ahhh yes, @tomshep brought up something I forgot to mention... my 4-post lifts require compressed air to release the locks while my 2-post lift has a manual lock release lever. You will need a compressor if you get a 4-post lift.
 

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Ahhh yes, @tomshep brought up something I forgot to mention... my 4-post lifts require compressed air to release the locks while my 2-post lift has a manual lock release lever. You will need a compressor if you get a 4-post lift.
Just a point of clarification. @tomshep and @Goose17 brought up something I forgot as well -- compressed air. The Direct Lift 4-post lift does not require compressed air to release the locks or anything, so that was another reason I went with Direct Lift.
 

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And the ability to use 110V was appealing. There are times I wish the 110V was faster with raising but it's not anywhere enough for me to wish I would have upgraded to the 220V (and the added cost of electrician to install a 220V).
The Direct Lift 4-post lift does not require compressed air to release the locks or anything, so that was another reason I went with Direct Lift.
+1 to both points...
...I chose DirectLift for several reasons. First, their ProPark 8S lift was the best fit for my available space. Their lifts are ALI-certified, which was an important safety consideration. Third, their lifts operate on 110V, which is easier/cheaper to install than 220V. Fourth, their locking mechanism doesn't require compressed air to disengage, making for a simpler/cheaper install. Finally, they include at no extra charge a number of accessories (i.e., casters, drip trays, and jack tray) for which other manufacturers charge extra. To facilitate wheel/suspension work, I added a ProJack 3500 when I bought the lift. I found DirectLift's Ceiling Height Calculator useful when researching options.
 

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With the Direct Lift, did you have to check your concrete thickness?
 

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With the Direct Lift, did you have to check your concrete thickness?
I forget how I got comfortable with that to be honest. Drawing a blank at the moment.

I found this in the FAQ on Direct Lift's website. Looks like 4" min thickness if you choose to anchor a four post, but I guess it might be different/less if you choose not to anchor a 4 post (which is ok to do) ?

  • What are the concrete requirements?
Our 2 post lifts require 4” minimum thickness and 3000 psi, if you choose to anchor our four post lifts we also require 4” minimum thickness and 3000 psi. See the installation manual for more details or click here for a complete online listing of our manuals.
 
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