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Discussion Starter #1
I am having the FRPP handling pack put on my car. I have stock size wheels and tires. Is there anything else that is really necessary for the lowered suspension? Are the adj panhard bar and camber plates really necessary? I drive my car pretty hard, so I don't want to leave any real weak points. My car is driven mostly on the street so I am interested in an all around suspension; a compromise between straight line and curves. I have searched through the forums, but haven't found a straight answer. The search function is not very good.

Thanks
Mike
 

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Even stock the rear end is off, so yes the panhard is a good thing.
I also heard that if you lower w/o the camber you'll hear some suspension clunks from up front.
I just went with eibach pro springs, j&m LCAs and brackets, BMR upper and bracket and bmr panhard and panhard bracket. Real nice stuff
 

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I am having the FRPP handling pack put on my car. I have stock size wheels and tires. Is there anything else that is really necessary for the lowered suspension? Are the adj panhard bar and camber plates really necessary? I drive my car pretty hard, so I don't want to leave any real weak points. My car is driven mostly on the street so I am interested in an all around suspension; a compromise between straight line and curves. I have searched through the forums, but haven't found a straight answer. The search function is not very good.

Thanks
Mike
You will need the J & M lca's and uca with adjustable panhard bar if you want it done right....& the adjustable camber plates with a full alignment....go to www.hotparts.com to buy the parts. :zlurking: With the FRPP suspension drop you will need the relocation brackets welded in.
 

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Forgot to mention I also went with the J&M camber plates up front.
All of the stuff, J&M and BMR are very nice and impressively manufactured. Can't go wrong with either.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright Ill pick up an adj panhard bar and some camber plates. Can I get by without the upper and lower control arms for now? I'll add them later.
 

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just get it all and do it right.....:zlurking:
 

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Alright Ill pick up an adj panhard bar and some camber plates. Can I get by without the upper and lower control arms for now? I'll add them later.
Of course you can do without the UCA and LCA for now. Having just done the replacement suspension thing myself, I can tell you that you need not replace everything at once since replacing the springs and shocks on the rear end does not require the removal of either the UCA or LCA to do the job. I would be better to do it all at once, but if your budget dictates otherwise, it is not necessary to do it all at once.
Personally, I like to change out components one at a time to see what the effect of each component is individually. But that's the engineer in me coming through. I did my work in this order: Watts link, LCA, UCA, sway bars, then springs / shocks / camber plates and upper bearings / X5 ball joint / bumpsteer kit all together. I knew quite a while ago I'd do all of these components, but I chose not to spend all the money at once so I did them in what was a logical sequence for me. Because I have done similar work on several other cars of mine in the past, I started with the Watts link since I'd never had one before and I wanted to see what effect it would have on an otherwise stock GT500. Knowing what I know now, I'd do things exactly that way again.
For what it's worth, I used the Steeda upper bearing plates which allow a range of adjustment for camber but not caster. When the front end was aligned, the caster came out spot-on for the stock factory spec - perfect for my purposes.
 

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Of course you can do without the UCA and LCA for now. Having just done the replacement suspension thing myself, I can tell you that you need not replace everything at once since replacing the springs and shocks on the rear end does not require the removal of either the UCA or LCA to do the job. I would be better to do it all at once, but if your budget dictates otherwise, it is not necessary to do it all at once.
Personally, I like to change out components one at a time to see what the effect of each component is individually. But that's the engineer in me coming through. I did my work in this order: Watts link, LCA, UCA, sway bars, then springs / shocks / camber plates and upper bearings / X5 ball joint / bumpsteer kit all together. I knew quite a while ago I'd do all of these components, but I chose not to spend all the money at once so I did them in what was a logical sequence for me. Because I have done similar work on several other cars of mine in the past, I started with the Watts link since I'd never had one before and I wanted to see what effect it would have on an otherwise stock GT500. Knowing what I know now, I'd do things exactly that way again.
For what it's worth, I used the Steeda upper bearing plates which allow a range of adjustment for camber but not caster. When the front end was aligned, the caster came out spot-on for the stock factory spec - perfect for my purposes.
Not sure how you lowered the car and felt you didn't need an adjustable UCA...even if you are still running the stock driveshaft the pinion angle will be out of whack without an adjustable UCA.
 

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Per Three Cobra's post, I'd recommend, and am doing it myself, the stepped approach. I just installed Jim Fay's Watts Link (the Fays2), and can absolutely highly recommend it. It transformed a nose heavy car that plowed like a farm tractor into a car that actually turns! Just a great product and Jim is a very knowledgable guy who is more than happy to share his ample knowledge.

Next week, or as soon as I can, I'll install my springs, upper and lower control arms(and brackets), and camber plates, and dial all that in. Then I'll decide which dampers/struts to throw in there. I should end up with a better understanding of what works and why, and even be able to enhance what I have if I tune each step to perform at its best.

As Jim Fay pointed out, some guys throw all the parts in at once, end up with an undrivable car, and have no idea how to tune it all and waste way too much time screwing around with all the different parts, without knowing what thing caused what result. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the replies. The last few posts are what I was looking for. I just want to make sure that I won't cause any damage to the car if I drive it hard without the upper and lower control arms. Or that it would be unsafe in the handling department. I plan on the UCA and LCA w/ relocation bracket in the future, but just don't really want to go through waiting on all the parts and welding the bracket in at the moment.

Thanks
Mike
 

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Not sure how you lowered the car and felt you didn't need an adjustable UCA...even if you are still running the stock driveshaft the pinion angle will be out of whack without an adjustable UCA.
Vette -
You are right about the UCA needing to be an adjustable one if you are lowering the car. I was busy explaining what I did and forgot the thread starter had already begun with lowering. Since I knew I would lower mine at some point, I did install an adjustable UCA in the first place even though the suspension was to stay at stock height for a while. Good catch.
Having said that, my pinion angle was only one degree out after lowering the car, so the adjustment was not very much.
 
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