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Moderator/Admin Dude!
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, so here's my install thread. Let me preface this with I am NO mechanic. I've changed some spark plugs on my mower and that's about it. I am fairly handy and can figure most things out, but it takes me at least twice as long and mistakes are made along the way. With that being said, the FR750 kit comes with some decent instructions. Unfortunately they are black and white which makes it difficult to see some of the pictures. Some pictures have a dark arrow on a dark background and you can't really see what they are pointing at. After my install, I spoke with Jeff at Whipple who apparently made the instructions. I pointed out a few errors and they may have them fixed for the next guy. He also said he could email out the COLOR INSTRUCTIONS! That would have been good to know prior to the install. I did find a couple threads on various chat sites that helped, but none were all inclusive. Also, the 2011+ 500s are slightly different.

So let's get started. First the kit:

It looks fantastic!

Next, protect the car:


Before you do anything else, move your driver's side electric seat all the way forward so you are not cursing later trying to install your fuel pump with no space once the battery is pulled. (happened to me)

Note, the instruction manual switches back and forth between inch pounds and foot pound for your torque wrench! Make sure you watch for this.

Take off radiator cover. Black plastic push in pins pop up to release.

The installation steps from the manual:
1. Blow off engine with air hose to get rid of debris. If dirty, steam clean.
2. Remove fuel pump relay. This is really the first mechanical step in the manual and it is jacked up. The picture points to an empty space in the fuse panel. The owner's manual points to the other side (also an empty space). Something called a Fuel Sensor (Shelby only) is indicated in the manual and points to the relay below. I pulled it and tried starting the car per the instructions. It didn't start, but there was still a lot of fuel, although not pressurized, in the rails. (EDIT: after another project - painting my fuel rails, I discovered there is a fuel pump relay fuse... it is at the other end of the white arrow line in the picture and is a small fuse; #13. I pulled that and tried starting the car and again it didn't start, but there was less fuel in the rail this time).


3-6. Remove battery and tray. The long bolt in front of it releases the hold down. 3 bolts hold the tray in.


7. Disconnect electrical connectors:
A. MAF


B. Electronic throttle control:


C. Throttle position sensor:


8. Disconnect plastic breather hose from passenger side valve cover. Push green tab on bottom and pull.


9. Disconnect rubber 90 degree fitting from air intake tube.


10. Disconnect plastic PCV hose fitting from driver's side intake manifold. (again, press green tab on bottom and then pull)


11. Remove hose clamp securing rubber inlet hose to throttle body and air box.


12. Remove plastic air inlet between MAF and throttle body.


13. Remove air box from vehicle. (for an 11+, you have to pull off the cold air feed tube. There is one large bolt holding down the filter casing. Under the filter casing, there are 2 push-in connectors holding a wire harness to the filter casing - pull them out)


 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
After the CAI is removed:

14. Disconnect and remove EGR steel tube from solenoid and exhaust manifold (removal and installation required a crescent wrench and an angled pliers):



15. Disconnect rubber line from fuel PSI sensor:


16. Disconnect electrical connector from fuel PSI sensor:


17. Disconnect 3/8" ID hose from center rear of supercharger:


18. Disconnect rubber line coming from brake booster to rear SC intake. To release, squeeze clear plastic portion of the connector (on bottom) and pull:



19. Disconnect rubber line coming from box located on driver's side inner fender to the rear driver's side of SC intake. To release, squeeze the clear plastic portion of the connector and pull (again on bottom).


20. Disconnect factory fuel line from fuel rail. (This is a green plastic lock that needs to be released from the bottom and pushed up on both sides to unlock the fuel supply line. Make sure to put a rag under the green lock - fuel will leak out).




21. Disconnect IAT2 temp sensor:


22. Remove 2 bolts holding coolant reservoir. Let reservoir hang to side for access to belt tensioner.


23. Remove throttle body from SC inlet by removing 4 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
24. Remove the SC inlet from the SC by removing the 4 bolts (I had a considerable amount of oil in mine at 10,150 miles!):


25. Remove fuel rail from manifold by removing 4 bolts (have rags - there is quite a bit of fuel still in the rails) Also unplug the electrical connections on the injectors:




26. Remove SC belt from SC pully by using a breaker bar - or in my case, a large torque wrench. Put 3/8" square socket extension directly into the square hole to the right of the nut holding the tensioner in place and rotate clockwise with some force. (leave belt on all other pullies):


27. Remove line from 90 degree rubber boot that goes to the air bypass nipple:


28. Remove the SC from manifold by removing the 10, I repeat 10 bolts! There is 1 bolt hiding in the back. Also, a socket will not work on the back passenger side - use a box head wrench, but you can't fully loosen the bolt until raising the SC:


Back passenger side bolt:


The bolt hiding in the back by the firewall:


There was an electrical connector on the EGR valve I missed - disconnect that too!:


Now would be a good time to cover the large hole on the top of your engine - I eventually discover this:


29. Remove ground wire from driver's side firewall (I removed the plastic screw/push connectors from the top plastic trim and jammed a needle nose pliers in by the bolt to make space to remove the ground bolt:


See! I eventually covered the holes. Noticed I also covered the injector holes - all with blue painter's tape. You'll have to clean the oil off before it will stick:


30. With the 3/8" plastic barb, connect the 3/8" hose extension to the 3/8" hose at the back of the engine. I eventually made a CRITICAL MISTAKE HERE: the instructions clearly state to route the hose up the driver's side, but you'll see in subsequent pictures, once I installed the Whipple, the hose accidentally got pushed to the passenger side. More on that little nightmare later:


Hose in place. The metal connectors can be rotated later to keep them away from the polished finish of the SC. I used a spray bottle with a little soapy water to help get these pipes connected:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
31. 2011+ Instructions say to "Substitute the harness with the supplied P clip and wrap the wires by the EGR tube with silver insulation". I was getting a little weary at this point and didn't quite grasp what they were saying. It didn't help that there was no "supplied P clip". So I removed this bracket (it blocks the larger Whipple from getting into position):

I put a bunch of HVAC metal tape on the wire harness. Actual wiring harness insulation would probably be better (the EGR tube comes up through here):

I made my own "P clip" with some metal pipe strapping tape:


32. Don't use dow pins (not included anyway).

I skipped ahead and went to step 69. It made more sense to get the plugs in now with no obstructions.

69. Remove the coil covers on the valve covers by removing the 4 bolts
(this is also a good shot of the oil dip stick which I had to bend out of the way of the throttle body later during the install):


70. Remove the 8 ignition coils by unplugging them (don't worry about crossing wires - they can't reach each other) and pulling them up/out.



71-75. Remove spark plugs, gap and install supplied new plugs (.025"), reinstall coil packs and reconnect coil electrical connectors. Push until they click. Congratulations, you've actually installed something (as opposed to disassembly).

Back to the supercharger... I did a couple of test fits BEFORE I broke out the RTV silicone. This sucker is not light and you have to hold it out, away from your body. So it's real fun moving it in/out to size things up. Get help! Here was my initial test fit:

The dreaded firewall clearance on the Whipple... My actuator was touching the insulation:

I may have been able to let it be, but I chose to create some space. The instructions talk about adjusting the actuator forward by loosening the 2 bolts and moving them forward in their slots. I went this route:

This is step 34 and it also talks about a light amount of preload into the actuator. I really had no idea what they were getting at and since it was on a weekend, I couldn't call anyone so I pressed forward.

Post install, I called Whipple and spoke to a guy who said I needed to push the rod forward from the actuator to put pressure on the bypass when tightening the 2 bolts. He said if I didn't do this, I'd have boost leak and I wouldn't get full boost. I was not at home when I called so I needed to get to the car to see if I could adjust this in place or if I had to remove the SC! Once home, I called back and spoke with Jeff at Whipple. He gave me a slightly different story. He said the bypass is spring loaded closed and that I didnt need to worry about the "preload". He had me look (I was surprised I could see it) to verify it was actually closed with the engine not running and it was. I don't have an aftermarket boost gauge yet to read actual boost, but my factory gauge pegs at 15 psi which is the max for the gauge. In any event, if you need to adjust your actuator away from the firewall, push the rod towards the closed position when tightening the bolts for what it's worth.

Here is another test fit once moving the actuator slightly forward:

It was the magic little distance required so there was no pressure on the firewall/actuator.

35. Talks about possibly needing to move your front suspension K-member forward. Did not have to do this nor whack my firewall inward.

Now preinstall the driver's side furthest back SC mounting bolt. This will be the fun little bolt that is under the intake. You will not be able to install this later! How much thread to leave out... You'll have to play with it and do some test fits. Too little and the SC won't go into position. Too much will leave a lot of a difficult bolt to tighten down:


36. 2011+ remove steel harness wire protector at rear (already did this in step 31). Also, locate the EGR wiring harness - pull from plastic loom so the wires have more access to the new location of the EGR valve. I used a razor blade and VERY CAREFULLY cut away the wire harness wrap and found the wires and gave them some more wiggle room. They need to be able to stretch towards the passenger side a little more since the EGR valve is a little more to the right of the car. You can see these wires in the upper left corner of the next picture. I ended up wrapping them in many layers of HVAC metal foil tape to keep from cooking against the EGR tube. I also got some heat resistant insulation for this area you'll see later.

37. Apply approximately a 3mm bead of Black RTV silicone on top of the factory O ring to prevent leaks. I cleaned up all the oil first for better bonding:


38. Install said Whipple!!!!!! (and there was much rejoicing and a little cussing):

Remember earlier I spoke about that mother-lovin' 3/8" hose? This is where I pushed it to the passenger side. Make sure it stays on the DRIVER'S side!

39 and 40. Install the SC bolts - hand tighten.

41. Remember that preinstalled driver's side back bolt? This is the "fun bolt". Using a ratcheting 10mm wrench, and someone with smaller hands than mine, slowly work the bolt down while cussing. It takes some time but it eventually goes. Large hands are a hindrance here.


42. Following the torque down pattern in the instructions, you basically go from the middle of the SC outwards. First pass is 18ft/lbs. second pass is 25 ft/lbs. The bolt above - you basically have to feel/guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
43. Install driver's side fuel rail... Remove all 4 of the driver's side injectors. There was no explanation on how to do this. I believe you can slide the metal retaining clips back, but I just used a needle nose pliers and pried open the retaining clip and the injectors came loose. The retaining clips sprung back into their original shape when released. Also apply grease to the O rings on the injectors. Place the injectors in their holes on the engine:

Orient the driver's side fuel rail to go under the SC inlet. You'll have to rotate the front up as well as the passenger side up. Reinstall the injectors back into the rail. If you did what I did to remove them (pry open with needle nose pliers), then simply push them on until it clicks into place. Otherwise you need to slide the retaining clip in after the injector is in place:

44. Secure driver's side fuel rail with bolts. Instructions were backwards here. It says to use supplied bolt on the front and existing bolt in the back. The supplied bolt is shorter to fit under the SC inlet:


45. Install passenger side fuel rail. Again use grease on injector O rings and secure rail with 2 bolts.


46. Apply light amount of RTV silicone to EGR adapter surface. Install EGR adapter on SC using supplied bolts. For 2011+: make sure EGR adapter is oriented with the bolt clearance grooves in the upward position. I initially wanted to orient this the other way for more EGR to fuel rail clearance, but the EGR tube will not reach if you do. Also, pay no attention to the 3/8" hose that is on the wrong mother-freak'n side of the engine:


47. Install new EGR tube to exhaust manifold and EGR. Leave loose for next instruction. You can see in this picture that I put quite a bit of HVAC foil tape on the wire harness that the EGR tube will be touching. Later I also put in some silver heat-resistant insulation between the EGR tube and the wire harness:


48. Install EGR to SC inlet with 2 bolts. This is a bit of a pain and requires muscling it into position while tightening the bolts. I ended up dropping the back bolt - which went into the witness protection program and was never seen again. A trip to the hardware store for another bolt and a small round magnet inside the socket eventually led to success in getting this bolt in a hole that I couldn't see. Having 1 person pull/hold from driver's side while you tighten will work.


49. Tighten both ends of the EGR tube.
9
Again, I used a combination of a crescent wrench and an angled pliers to align and tighten the bolt (pay no attention to the red X, move along now, there's nothing to see here):


50. Connect EGR electrical connector to EGR solenoid until it locks in place:


51. Install supplied plastic plug into 90 degree rubber boot open hole. This line will not be used with Mr.Whipple. I also put some RTV in the end for a good seal:


52. Connect rubber/plastic lines to EGR solenoid and connect rubber 90 degree boot to Whipple billet adapter. You'll need to install the 2 connectors...I put some RTV on the threads:


53. Connect EVAP line (the oil line from passenger side valve cover) to quick connect fitting shown in picture above.

54. Connect all 8 fuel injector connectors until they snap/lock in place (the electrical connectors).

55. Connect fuel psi sensor connector until it snaps/locks in place. It is on the passenger side fuel rail (the electrical connector).

56. Connect fuel PSI pressure hose from intake manifold back to sensor barb immediately in front of the electrical connector in step 55. For a picture of this, look back at step 45. The 2 previously mentioned connectors are by the "Ford Racing" logo on the SC.

57. Connect rubber 3/8" hose to SC inlet barb fitting. This was my OH CRAP! Moment where I discovered that the hose was up on the passenger side with ZERO room behind the SC to move it back over. More on that in a bit... I installed the fittings here shown in the picture. You could install these earlier to make it a little easier (before SC installation), but it didn't call for it in the instructions so I didn't. I used RTV on the threads:

I angled the 90 degree elbow down for the 3/8" hose.


Now, back to the problem. I had 2 choices: remove the glued on SC or try and somehow fish this hose back over to the driver's side. I chose the latter and hoped it worked. I ended up using a stiff piece of wire that I made a barb on the end. With a flashlight and many attempts, I was able to snag the connector on the hose pictured in step 30. Lots of tugging, reattaching, cursing and time later resulted in the hose close to the driver's side, but wedged in a place my Neanderthal hands couldn't reach. It was starting to look like I'd have to pull the darn SC off again despite my best efforts to unfrick my frick-up. That's when I thought of a last ditched effort... Child labor!!! My 10 year old is a pretty tough guy, yet he has some pretty small hands/arms. I solicited his help and was reduced to the ranks of flashlight holder boy while he struggled and strained with his arm jammed in a tight space, but that little bugger got it and TOTALLY SAVED MY BACON! We'll see if he asks for an allowance raise when his contract comes up for renegotiation. Well here he is, shirtless and all, making it happen when it counted:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
58. Attach line coming from brake booster to fitting on SC inlet. I used RTV On the threads for the fitting. Also, route the line from the brake booster in an "s shape". Push on until it clicks into place.

These pictures are a little out of sequence since I had gone ahead a few steps while I was figuring out a solution to my 3/8" hose issue:


59. BVES valve (2011+). Remove BVES valve from stock SC inlet. All the subsequent steps are for a 2011+ until noted otherwise:

Slip valve into adapter then slip assembly into bracket and bolt together with factory bolts. The puzzle goes together like this:


60. Install new BVES assembly to driver's side front of engine with 2 supplied bolts:


61/62. These steps talk about splicing and extending a wire harness. There was an included wire harness in my kit that just plugged in. No splicing required. It is the long wire in lower right side of next picture and marked with white arrows in subsequent shot:



63. Cut hard line by left strut tower! I wasn't overly sure about these steps in the directions, but here is the skinny: They are talking about this line here:

This is where you have to make 2 cuts. You are cutting out the bend which will leave only straight pieces. Cut where the white arrows are. You can see me cutting the top here. Cut the bottom directly below the top cut:

Here is the bend I cut out and the white arrow points to the bottom line that remains attached to the strut tower:

Splice both straight pieces with the billet adapter and hose clamps. They had some funky clamps included that were beyond my weary brain power so I just used some traditional hose clamps I had:


64. Connect BVES valve hard line to the aluminum chassis tube:


65. Connect supplied 3/8" hose from nipple on adapter housing to the nipple on the blower intake housing. Keep all hoses away from exhaust manifold (you can see the forward connection in the previous picture - bottom connection):


66. This got very confusing for me after a long day... The instructions say to connect the quick connect fitting from the box located on the driver's side inner fender to SC inlet quick connect male fitting (top). Make sure it snaps into place.

What the instructions DON'T say is this is for 2010 and earlier! It took some serious head scratching to figure that one out. The 2011+ do the BVES valve thing so this is where the 2010 and earlier guys come back in.

67. Reinstall the factory ground (you can see my pliers jammed in to create space). I also put a towl on the SC to protect the finish:


68. Connect factory fuel line until it snaps/locks in place. This is the green plastic lock on the driver's side fuel line. Double check this. I thought I had it locked, but it wasn't. I noticed in the pictures as I was preparing this thread that it was backing itself out (holy under the hood fuel fire Batman!). You'll see in a later picture what I'm talking about.

69-75. Swap out the plugs (which I did earlier since there were no obstructions).

76. Reinstall SC belt. There is a lower pulley that doesn't have groves - it is smooth. Take the belt off of it and use your breaker bar/torque wrench as pictured below. Clockwise motion again and put the belt on the grooved supercharger pulley. Lastly, slip the belt onto the smooth pulley that you had the belt off previously. This is key... You cannot slide a tight belt onto a grooved pulley, but you can on a smooth pulley:

As a side note, I have heard a little belt slip squeal. I've noticed going back through the instructions now that with the supplied 3" SC pulley, it calls for the stock 84.0" belt with an IDLER! I'll have to look into this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
77. Apply 2mm bead of black RTV to SC inlet to throttle body flange (gasket now included with kit - but I still used a little RTV on both sides). Install throttle body to SC intake with 4 bolts.


78. Remove MAF element from factory air box by removing 2 bolts.

79. Install MAF element into new MAF housing using the supplied screws. This only goes in 1 way. Also of note. The new air box appears to be identical to the 2011+ box. I used the new one:


80. 2007-09 only. Install the blocker plate for the cold air port.

81. Install air box. Don't forget to connect the 2 wire harness push in connectors on the bottom. Secure with 1 bolt. If your hood doesn't close post install, your air box isn't seated properly (happened to me):

82. Reconnect MAF connector to MAF element. Also connect hump hose to throttle body (rubber connector to intake tube) with supplied hose clamp. Install the non-humped rubber connector to the air box side of the intake - slide it all the way on and secure with hose clamp.

Install the oval end of the air duct to the throttle body side hump hose. Slide it all the way in and lift up tubes to secure the filter box side. Tighten hose clamps:

I used a flat head screw driver to help with the tube insertion:

Completed intake! (and the crowd roars!)


83. Reinstall coolant reservoir with 2 factory bolts.

84. Fill SC with supplied oil. I poured very slowly - worrying about overfilling. Turned out to be exactly the required amount (fill to middle of sight glass). Make sure you are on level ground:

Oil site - fill to 1/2:


One connector the instructions didn't talk about on the throttle. Don't forget it:


A handy tool when working on cars while eating movie butter popcorn! (magnet on a stick):


85. The son-of-a-basket fuel pump!%#+¥£€! I made the mistake of doing this at the end of a very long day of install. This is no easy task. First off, you'll be happy you got the advice to move your driver's seat all the way forward BEFORE you disconnected the battery. I was not so lucky. Also, to do this over again, I'd push my car out of the garage and open the doors wide for fuel fume ventilation. I was in the garage, at night, no ventilation, in a tight space with my son holding light for ME this time. This is like fuel pump birth and trying to jam it back in to simmer some more. It is a small hole, complicated by sharp sheet metal and another piece of sheet metal that overhangs the front of the hole. The pumps have elbow like hoses sticking out as well as a float level that will fight you going in and out. I was grinding this stuff on the sharp sheet metal, twisting trying to "deliver" the fuel pump. I was sure I had cut through the hoses on the metal, but it pumps gas and the car runs.

86. Ok, here we go. Pop up the rear seat bottom. Then pry up the fuel pump access cover:


87. Disconnect fuel pump electrical connector.

88. Disconnect fuel line: Have a rag ready for leaking gas and squeeze and pull.
In the below picture, the front of the car is to the right. You can see the overhanging sheetmetal. This is a source of frustration:


89. The green locking ring in the above picture needs to be hammered off... There are lips that stick up in the center most area of the ring. I put a metal chissel on one and hammered in a counter clockwise direction to release.

90. Lift pump out. There is a fuel line connected inside the tank that is a cross over tube. This will be another challenge. It has a quick release. I just pulled the pump up and out until I could get at this to unhook it.

Lots of 4-letter words were learned by my son at this stage. Hopefully the fuel fumes prevented them from entering his long term memory.

I noticed some black rubber pieces at the bottom of my tank once I finally got the pump out. I retieved them not knowing what they were. Turns out they are 4 little black rubber feet that are on the bottom of the pump. I didnt realize this until post install so the new pump doesn't have them on and will not - cuz I'm not pulling it out again!

91. Just says "completely remove fuel pump from tank". Well that sounds easy!

92-95. For 2007-09 has a fuel sensor modification step.

96. Talks about installing new fuel pump O ring to the access door. I used the old one.

97. "Position the high flow dual fuel pump into the fuel tank." Again, sounds wonderfully easy!

98. Connect crossover fuel tube (the one inside the tank). I connected this on the outside and then jammed it all in the "not quite large enough hole".

99. Talks about alignment arrows on the pump. I don't see any through the fuel vapors. I match the the new pump with the picture I took of the old one. Reinstall locking ring. Instructions say use NEW locking ring (not supplied).

100. Connect quick connect fuel coupling on top of pump. Make sure it clicks.

101. Reconnect battery! This is where the fumes subsided and I remembered to start taking pictures again:


Next is connect battery charger and upload tune!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Now that the hardware is complete, the last thing is to program the computer. The kit comes without the ProCal II tuner, but you get a sheet with a code. You go to a web site, enter your information and 1-2 days later, your tuner shows up with a tune for YOUR car. In my case, it came the next day.

I had read threads that talked about using a battery charger so your battery doesn't quit during the upload. So, I connected my old charger and impatiently waited for a little while.

Per the upload instructions, I:

Verify the VIN matches car.
Peel back rubber boot and insert memory chip.
Attach cable to programmer.

Next step says to make sure battery is fully charged and all accessories (radio, lights, fan, etc) are off! It does confirm what I've read here that if you are unsure of your charge, connect a charger.

CAUTION: If your ProCal II aborts programming due to low voltage or interrupted programming process, you may be required to have the vehicle towed to an authorized dealer to reprogram your PCM back to its original stock calibration.

To say I was a bit nervous was an understatement.

Locate your on board Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) beneath the driver side dashboard.

Connect the OBDII connector of your ProCal II tool to the vehicle DLC. A note says the first screen you may see is a firmware update message - normal / let it do its thing. Also states not to disconnect the tuner during the process once it has begun.

Turn the ignition key to on. Of course my auto-freak'n lights come on as well as my AC fan and suck what little charge I have from the battery. So, make sure your headlight switch is OFF as well as your AC controls (which you cannot select off until the key is on unless you seriously planned ahead and turned it off before you started all this process).

Fortunately the battery charger is still helping my cause. Unfortunately there is ZERO power to my ProCal II tuner! I call Ford Racing and speak to a guy I won't name. He basically says, oh - that's no good. Can you get towed to a dealer? I state that they are a long way away and seriously start to sweat. He gets my email address and emails me a sheet that breaks down the OBDII port to have me use an electrical tester to check for power at a specific pin. He thinks my OBDII port is dead since the ProCal II tuner is quite reliable. I turn the key off and leave the charger on and go print the email off and get ready to check for power.

I come back to the car and the tuner powers up when I open the door! So, from what I gathered is the battery charge was low and the OBDII port has a voltage cutoff which keeps power off the plug. You'd think the Ford Racing guy would have known this and save me some serious nervous energy.

So, where was I... Oh ya: It's alive, it's alive I tell you!

I get the message about the firmware update - let it do it's thing.

Use the down arrow and highlight Diagnostics and press Enter. Highlight Read DTCs and press Enter.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes that exist for your vehicle are displayed.
In my case I get a DTC READ ERROR! (now what?)

I call Ford Racing again since they were SO helpful the first time. He says hmmmm. Asks about a couple things to which I respond Check! He then puts me on hold and comes back a while later and asks "is your key on?". Crap - no it isn't. I turned it off when I went to print off his port diagnostic email.

So, with key in the ON position (like the instructions say), it now reads the DTCs and there are none.

Press the ESC key. Instructions state to resolve all trouble codes and re-read. I had none so I press on.

Next step ironically says to turn ignition on. Yes, thank you, it's still on.

Select Programming by pressing Enter

Select Performance Cal by pressing enter. Display will show: An updated software version is available. Press Enter to proceed.

Press Enter

Ignition key to OFF. Press Enter. "Turn Key On" will be displayed.

Turn ignition key to ON. Programming process will begin. There were a series of crazy sounds that were a bit unsettling to a nervous first timer. I thought I had killed my battery again and pictured my car on a flatbed heading to the dealer. Not the case... It all appears to be working normally.

The 1st time the tool is used with a particular vehicle, it will save a copy of your stock calibration. The process is not fast! A note says to be patient and to not interrupt the tuning process. "Edit Config Data" will be displayed when the uploading process is complete.

To program 2011+ cars the instructions say:
Ignition key to ON. Programming process will begin. This takes quite a bit of time.

When "Update Complete", cycle key to OFF for at least 2 seconds then back ON and press Enter. The ProCal II will display "The performance calibration is done!"

Press Enter 3 times to clear all DTCs. If the vehicle has stock tires and gears (my case) you are done!!!!! If you have to program that info it tells you to go up a step - which puts you in a repeating loop of instructions. So this typo I believe should say go to the NEXT step to program these things.

There is also a way to change your octane rating from the default 91 tune to 93+. I didn't mess with this.

So that's it!


Remember that green locking fuel line connector I mentioned a while back... As I was prepping for this thread and working with the pictures, I saw this shot with the connector not locked and opening up! My heart sank thinking about a possible fire under the hood. Fortunately I caught this before that happened. I pushed it down and made sure it click at the bottom. If you do this mod, check yours after some miles:

Last picture... You can see in this shot the oil dip stick and how tight it is on the throttle body. This is AFTER I bent it forward and out a bit. I just pulled on the tube to bend it slightly. Otherwise it is totally hitting the throttle body:


And that concludes my install thread. Darn thread took longer than the actual install (almost). So, my closing thoughts... Like I said in the beginning, I'm no mechanic! I made some mistakes, learned a TON about motors and modding. Was it hard? Yes, but not too bad. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. Especially with this thread, it should be much easier for the next guy. The power is awesome and it is 50 state emissions legal! I like the looks of the polished blower and the kit, for the most part, is well put together.

The big challenges are: the fuel pump, the bolt under the blower inlet and the EGR valve with its stiff EGR tube. Of those 3, the fuel pump was my biggest adversary.

Please feel free to post your thoughts/comments/questions.
 

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Great job! You will make things easier for the rest of our fellow members for sure. Now go get the dyno even though your unsure about it!


Sent from my iPhone using AG Free
 

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2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Discussion Starter #11
No dyno for me. I know my power level from Ford and I bought an Aeroforce interceptor gauge for air/fuel ratios.

The car pulls hard and violent. I got my wife in it a couple days ago. Her quote was: "holy crap! That's alarming!"
 

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Plasman - this thread should be "sticky".

Great write up Goose. I would actually see printing this out for my mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys. I've learned a ton on this board and I like to give back and help when I can.
 

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I have a TVS but read through this anyway and just learned more about the car. FANTASTIC job. Just wanted to stop in and say thank you for this.Oh and can you do one of these on the boost sensor for the gauge you have :)
 

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Very well done Goose. If this whole flying planes thing doesn’t work out for you, I see a bright future as an instruction manual writer for IKEA!
 

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No dyno for me. I know my power level from Ford and I bought an Aeroforce interceptor gauge for air/fuel ratios.

The car pulls hard and violent. I got my wife in it a couple days ago. Her quote was: "holy crap! That's alarming!"
VERY NICE install guide! How much RWHP? TQ? Boost?
 

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Discussion Starter #19

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According to the Ford Racing site:


On 2011/2012 Mustang SVT produces 750 hp @ 6100 rpm and 719 lb-ft @ 4200 rpm @ 17 psi boost on 93 octane fuel

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=12300

Of course this is crank power and not wheel power.
Yeah - that's why I was asking what the RWHP was. Probably somewhere in the 630 - 640 range - still plenty good. I also see from the pictures that it has the 3.0 pulley. Seems like a solid / safe build. (I went with a 3.25 and a +10 Lower) The deal is you're running 200 more HP than stock and the driveability is still just as reliable. I try to tell folks that all the time and most don't belive me until they see how my car drives. Drives like stock till you nail it - then LOOK OUT!
 
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