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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
http://s300.photobucket.com/user/gr8snkbite/slideshow/Exterior/07 Fog Light Install

Well, finally done with this project. Thanks for guidance from those that gave it. After many ideas, i came up with below. Just hated that god awful giant gap between the light and fender. I could have sprayed painted the rubber boot with factory paint, but it sorta looks good as is. Looks factory to me.

Parts:
Aluminum angle iron (offset) 1/16th thick - Home Depot (1 piece 36")
Rubber Plumber reducer (4 to 3 inch) - Home Depot (2)
Rubber 1/4-20 Well Nuts (4) - Pepboys
1/4-20 x 3/4" bolts (4)
3/16-24 x 1/2" screws (4)
1/4" washers (8)

Install:
First the angle. I cut out a 2-3/8" section using my handy dandy drimmel. Placing the short side of the angle up under the bracket, i marked along the enlongated holes. Then center punched and drilled using a 5/32" bit. Using a electrical box ground screw (lack of a tap), i threaded the screw in, making threads in the angle for the 3/16" screws.
Then i drilled 1/4" holes on the long side. Holes are center 1/4" from bottom & side edges, and are 1-3/4" center to center. Screwed it to the light bracket with washers between the two, and under the screw heads. Moved it forward on the bracket and tigtened.

Then i cut the reducer as indicated on the picture using a sharp eckto knife. Then i cut it to open it. Along each edge i cut out about 3/4" material, leaving just the top rim. Then glued the seam together, and wrapped with a piece of electrical tape.
Then i sealed the rubber boot to the light fixture (with cutout area centered to the ribs) using high temp rtv, ensuring the front edge of the boot was at the lense edge.

I then shaved down the four well nuts to fit the holes in the fender installing from the front (flanges facing lights). Shave these carefully. The threads go in only about 3/8" deep. Shave straight down, not cuting into the boot. You will cut away most of the material, but should not expose the thread area.

Installed the light assemblies bolted in with the 1/4-20 bolts. Then made electrical connections. I cut the knife blades from the HID kit, and used elec connectors placing them just behind the factory connector.

Done :D
 

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Looks good & stock. Unless your looking real close, you're right, it looks stock. If you hadn't posted the detailed pictures of the assembly process, I wouldn't have noticed your 'bridge' to close the gap.
 

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Lookin good MPH!
 

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Sweet Keith! You are fast becoming the GT500 King Of Mods.:bigthumb:
 

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You Rang????........JK.

You do good work....:)

Don't you love going to the store in search of parts that you can use to do your project...and even you don't know what your looking for but will know when you see it..:thinkerg: ..and then the help ask "can I help you find somthing"...:roller:

Then you think....do I spend 1/2 hr telling or do I just say "I,m good "and keep looking for inspiration on the shelf...:)

It is hard and lots of work to be creative at this level..but rewarding..:)

Dave
BB.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You Rang????........JK.

You do good work....:)

Don't you love going to the store in search of parts that you can use to do your project...and even you don't know what your looking for but will know when you see it..:thinkerg: ..and then the help ask "can I help you find somthing"...:roller:

Then you think....do I spend 1/2 hr telling or do I just say "I,m good "and keep looking for inspiration on the shelf...:)

It is hard and lots of work to be creative at this level..but rewarding..:)

Dave
BB.
Dave, Your so right. :D Great minds think alike :D

Nice Kerry. I used the 1300 lights with the H11 Conv kit (if memory serves me right). Same magnitude as the headlights. I believe 8000's. Put my tint on also. Boy are they bright :D
 

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http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/nn37/gr8snkbite/Fog Lights/

Well, finally done with this project. Thanks for guidance from those that gave it. After many ideas, i came up with below. Just hated that god awful giant gap between the light and fender. I could have sprayed painted the rubber boot with factory paint, but it sorta looks good as is. Looks factory to me.

Parts:
Aluminum angle iron (offset) 1/16th thick - Home Depot (1 piece 36")
Rubber Plumber reducer (4 to 3 inch) - Home Depot (2)
Rubber 1/4-20 Well Nuts (4) - Pepboys
1/4-20 x 3/4" bolts (4)
3/16-24 x 1/2" screws (4)
1/4" washers (8)

Install:
First the angle. I cut out a 2-3/8" section using my handy dandy drimmel. Placing the short side of the angle up under the bracket, i marked along the enlongated holes. Then center punched and drilled using a 5/32" bit. Using a electrical box ground screw (lack of a tap), i threaded the screw in, making threads in the angle for the 3/16" screws.
Then i drilled 1/4" holes on the long side. Holes are center 1/4" from bottom & side edges, and are 1-3/4" center to center. Screwed it to the light bracket with washers between the two, and under the screw heads. Moved it forward on the bracket and tigtened.

Then i cut the reducer as indicated on the picture using a sharp eckto knife. Then i cut it to open it. Along each edge i cut out about 3/4" material, leaving just the top rim. Then glued the seam together, and wrapped with a piece of electrical tape.
Then i sealed the rubber boot to the light fixture (with cutout area centered to the ribs) using high temp rtv, ensuring the front edge of the boot was at the lense edge.

I then shaved down the four well nuts to fit the holes in the fender installing from the front (flanges facing lights). Shave these carefully. The threads go in only about 3/8" deep. Shave straight down, not cuting into the boot. You will cut away most of the material, but should not expose the thread area.

Installed the light assemblies bolted in with the 1/4-20 bolts. Then made electrical connections. I cut the knife blades from the HID kit, and used elec connectors placing them just behind the factory connector.

Done :D
Very nice MPH! Those are HIDs, were there any issues with additional drain on the car's main buss or circuitry that feeds the fogs? I ask since the voltage draw for HIDs is considerably higher, I think, than the stock lights. I saw the new ballast that's included, but I think the overall drain on the car's electrical system will be higher now. Did the manufacturer of the lights say anything about that? Noticed your a VA resident, I live in MD. My girlfriend lives in VA, Stafford; so I make the trek to VA now and then; she usually comes to MD. I have yet to drive the GT500 into VA, because I have this perception of VA being a bit of a police state. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks,
only drove her two nights as is, and didn't have any issues or codes. But i'm monitoring it. Not sure what the additional draw is. I know that they don't come on unless the car is actually running. If you ever bring her (both) down my way, look me up. I rarely get up her (gf) way.
 
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