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Everyone seems to prefer the J&M... www.hotpart.com That will be the route I go. Other than that, they all work ok, I just like the J&M bushings.
 

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Everyone seems to prefer the J&M... www.hotpart.com That will be the route I go. Other than that, they all work ok, I just like the J&M bushings.
+1....I just had the Ford Racing handling package installed with the J & M LCA's, LCA relocation brackets (welded in), UCA, Adj panhard bar and Adj camber plates....huge improvement. :zlurking:
 

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It's not the metal....it's the bushing materials that make the difference.

They don't say anything except it's perfect for street and strip. Uh huh.

bj
+1 J & M....the difference in the hook-up is amazing. :zlurking:
 

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Do you re-use your OEM LCA nuts, washers and bolts/fasteners when putting the new ones on...or do new mounting fasteners come with your new LCA's?
I have read that some mounting/faste

Curious.

OSHELBYO
 

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Do you re-use your OEM LCA nuts, washers and bolts/fasteners when putting the new ones on...or do new mounting fasteners come with your new LCA's?
I have read that some mounting/faste

Curious.

OSHELBYO
The J & M's came with all new hardware.:zlurking:
 

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Good thread.

As far as eliminating wheel-hop, are LCAs good enough or do you need UCA as well?

TD
 

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Good thread.

As far as eliminating wheel-hop, are LCAs good enough or do you need UCA as well?

TD
Lowers will help. Lowers and an upper will solve it.

Call Brian at Hotpart and tell him BJ sent you. I get nothing from it, but I do feel strongly enough about his customer service to put my name on it.
I have a set of these polished bad boys.
http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=72

Also....I HIGHLY recommend Tokico D-Specs. Your stock struts are yet another weak link.



bj
 

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Lowers will help. Lowers and an upper will solve it.

Call Brian at Hotpart and tell him BJ sent you. I get nothing from it, but I do feel strongly enough about his customer service to put my name on it.
I have a set of these polished bad boys.
http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=72

Also....I HIGHLY recommend Tokico D-Specs. Your stock struts are yet another weak link.



bj

Thanks!

putting together a shopping list ! FUN Fun Fun!

As far as the Tokico D-Spec, how do these compare with the Koni? How exactly do you adjust them (need to put on a lift I presume).

Was thinking about springs too - Hotpart.com sells the Vogtland - wonder how these compare to the FRPP?

What would adding an adjustable pan-hard bar accomplish? I see they sell several ends for the adjustable version - seems like the rod versions have a solid steel bushing instead of a poly bushing? I was thinking about going with the Watts-link (Saleen) but its awfully expensive (probably over 1300 with tax and shipping) - So going with an adj pan-hard may be money out the window if I ever switch to the watts-link (I assume the watts-link replaces the pan hard bar).

Front end suspension mods - I'm planning to replace the springs, shocks and struts, but I'm not sure what other options I have except replacing the bushings - was thinking about adding Poly bushings on the front. Don't hear of many folks upgrading the sway-bar, rod ends, or linkages. Not sure what adding camber plates will buy me.


Thanks!

TD
 

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Thanks!

putting together a shopping list ! FUN Fun Fun!

As far as the Tokico D-Spec, how do these compare with the Koni? How exactly do you adjust them (need to put on a lift I presume).

Was thinking about springs too - Hotpart.com sells the Vogtland - wonder how these compare to the FRPP?

What would adding an adjustable pan-hard bar accomplish? I see they sell several ends for the adjustable version - seems like the rod versions have a solid steel bushing instead of a poly bushing? I was thinking about going with the Watts-link (Saleen) but its awfully expensive (probably over 1300 with tax and shipping) - So going with an adj pan-hard may be money out the window if I ever switch to the watts-link (I assume the watts-link replaces the pan hard bar).

Front end suspension mods - I'm planning to replace the springs, shocks and struts, but I'm not sure what other options I have except replacing the bushings - was thinking about adding Poly bushings on the front. Don't hear of many folks upgrading the sway-bar, rod ends, or linkages. Not sure what adding camber plates will buy me.


Thanks!

TD
I went with the full FFRP handling pack & could not be happier. That said you need the Adj UCA when lowering the car to adjust the pinion angle for the driveshaft (exspecially important if planning on going to the one piece driveshaft). The LCA's to address the wheelhop, the relocation brackets for the LCA's to keep their angle correct and the adj.camber plates to keep the camber correct. Then you align the car where it was found out that my rear axle needed to come forward an 1/8 of an inch on the right side. I'm not sure exactly what caused this by I suspect it was like this since new because the car's rear had always wanted to drift right during hard acceleration.

Hope that helps....BJ jump in here if I missed anything.

Brent
 

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Steeda is a good place to do research. They sell almost every part for the suspension and give a decent description of what they are supposed to do. After you decide what parts you want, then start seeing what people have to say about the different brands. My 98 I set up all Steeda, and was overall very pleased, but this one I am shopping better. Steeda makes some really nice stuff, and then other things they make leave you scratching your head, but nevertheless good for research.
 

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I went with the full FFRP handling pack & could not be happier. That said you need the Adj UCA when lowering the car to adjust the pinion angle for the driveshaft (exspecially important if planning on going to the one piece driveshaft). The LCA's to address the wheelhop, the relocation brackets for the LCA's to keep their angle correct and the adj.camber plates to keep the camber correct. Then you align the car where it was found out that my rear axle needed to come forward an 1/8 of an inch on the right side. I'm not sure exactly what caused this by I suspect it was like this since new because the car's rear had always wanted to drift right during hard acceleration.

Hope that helps....BJ jump in here if I missed anything.

Brent
Well put. By the way, the Tokico D-Specs are adjusted on the ground. There is a small tool that you put in the top of the strut and adjust it where you want it. They also make 18" extensions for the rear ones so you don't have to stand on your head in the trunk to adjust them. I run my fronts at about 50% and the rears at 35% for strip work. The rear just squats and goes and the 50% in the front allows the front to lift enough to transfer weight. Go to hotpart.com and take a look at my car leaving the line. You'll see what I'm talking about.

bj
 
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