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'13 GT500 - Red Candy Metallic w/ White Stripes
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Discussion Starter #1
I realize that there have been issues with BAMA tuning. My intent of this discussion is not what I should have done or all the various reasons why BAMA sucks, etc. The facts are that 1) I bought the iTSX tuner (which I'm not really crazy about and probably should have gone with the nGauge or SCT X4) and 2) I got the bundled "lifetime" tunes from BAMA performance.

Normally I would do plenty of homework prior to purchasing, but I fell prey to the marketing gimmicks of "lifetime" tunes. I mean, most would agree, it's a pretty good deal for bolt-on updates. And American Muscle had a pretty good deal for the combo, $350.

Now that that's out of the way, here's my question: What should I look for in the data logs to make sure that my new tune doesn't do any permanent damage to my powertrain?
 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 CFTP Rapid Red! 2011 Kona Blue/white
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I have seen quite a few members pop up here through the years with issues from their American Muscle BAMA tune. BAMA has the 5.0 GT crowd dialed-in... my son has their tune on his 2011 GT and it is perfect. I have yet to read one post where a GT500 owner was happy with their BAMA tune... it always seems to be off. I have zero first hand experience with a BAMA GT500 tune... my 2011 is running a Ford Racing tune.

My advice would be to upload it and see how it works. Who knows, you might be the first with a trouble free GT500 tune. I would also take the car in for a dyno session to a place familiar with GT500s so they can monitor and check parameters like the ever so important air/fuel ratio.

If you have any issues, cut your losses/minimize your frustrations and contact a GT500 tuner like Lund, Palm Beach Dyno or VMP.
 

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If you have any issues, cut your losses/minimize your frustrations and contact a GT500 tuner like Lund, Palm Beach Dyno or VMP.
^^ This... but with one exception;
'WHEN you have the issues start,' "cut your losses/minimize your frustrations and contact a GT500 tuner like Lund, Palm Beach Dyno or VMP." ' << Or BJ !!!
 

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The decision is up to you.

Do you roll the dice or do you bite the bullet and get a reputable tune. Only you can decide how much financial pain you are willing to take on by having to get a new tune.
 

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2019 GT350
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I realize that there have been issues with BAMA tuning. My intent of this discussion is not what I should have done or all the various reasons why BAMA sucks, etc. The facts are that 1) I bought the iTSX tuner (which I'm not really crazy about and probably should have gone with the nGauge or SCT X4) and 2) I got the bundled "lifetime" tunes from BAMA performance.

Normally I would do plenty of homework prior to purchasing, but I fell prey to the marketing gimmicks of "lifetime" tunes. I mean, most would agree, it's a pretty good deal for bolt-on updates. And American Muscle had a pretty good deal for the combo, $350.

Now that that's out of the way, here's my question: What should I look for in the data logs to make sure that my new tune doesn't do any permanent damage to my powertrain?
The issue I had with the BAMA tune was readily apparent in drivability on my 2011. Boost would surge on and off under partial load at lower rpms (i.e. driving normally up a small hill). The car would just start bucking. I even drove to their headquarters and had them tune it on a dyno and they couldn't fix it.

Best of luck!
 

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2012 SVTPP with a heavy dose of 2013 components
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First off, what are your modifications? You still have flash tool, so all is not lost if you did need to get a new tune. I would log timing and timing retard. It's hard to screw up fueling with widebands, but I'd look at that too. I'd also log fuel long and short term fuel trims.
 

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I apologize that I'm not going to answer your question specifically, because I know that what your really want...

You're driving a $40,000+ car, with a potential upgrade plan worth thousands more. Throw the $350 into "lessons learned" and start over with BJ (Venomous Tuning), VMP, Lund, or local shop for custom dyno tuning.

Sometimes the things you need to hear aren't the things you want to hear. I think that's your case at the moment. That said, Catmonkey gave good direction above.
 

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Bama is adequate if they do datalogs. It is sub adequate if they do not.
Most of the bad rap is from people who cannot or do not log.

I can tell you with 110% certainty that atleast 3 of the current tuners at Lund came directly from Bama. One of them I am pretty sure cofounded Bama. They now tune for the premier Mustang tuner, so what does that say?

I wouldn't have chosen the, but I wouldnt lose sleep over it either if the car runs fine.
PS: if you have no clue what you are looking at, DO NOT LOOK AT YOUR DATALOGS! You will cause yourself more headache than it is worth
 
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'13 GT500 - Red Candy Metallic w/ White Stripes
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all of the great responses. A couple of notes:

First off, what are your modifications?
At the moment the only things that have been done to the car is a Corsa exhaust (running stock cats, stock h pipe, and stock bends up to the mufflers), an intake resonator removal kit, and the new tune.

You're driving a $40,000+ car, with a potential upgrade plan worth thousands more. Throw the $350 into "lessons learned" and start over
A somewhat difficult pill to swallow, but I appreciate your sound advice and logic.

The car actually runs like a scalded dog with the new tune, which is why I was looking for datalog parameters to watch. In my experience, a huge jump in perceived power or throttle response often is a result of lean fuel conditions. I just changed the plugs when I uploaded the tune so I'll pull one this evening to look for detonation. Otherwise, I suppose I'll keep an eye on timing/timing retard and the fuel trims until I can convince the wife that I need to spend another $300 on something I just bought that is non-refundable. :rolleyes:

Thanks again all!
 

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2012 SVTPP with a heavy dose of 2013 components
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I'm sure it's fine. You have to be pretty inept to screw up a tune on a basically stock car. If you don't have any drivability issues or signs of detonation, you might want to wait until you have some more complicated modes before getting a tune revision. Most tunes can accommodate a pulley change if they change the load and timing tables.
 

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2010 Ford Shelby GT500 Torch Red w/Nav
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I feel your pain a bit. My 2010 came with an SCT X4 and previous owner had the stock and a 93 tune on it. Since I have 91 octane only here where I live I decided to try Bama Tunes for life for a 91 tune. I'll say this once. Wasted money. Any tune they sent me the boost would go crazy in my car. Cruising at 80 the boost would go on and off just like Sotek2345 said.
Boost would surge on and off under partial load at lower rpms
Tried 4 more different tunes from Bama but none ever worked. Put the 93 tune that was in the SCT X4 back in and back to perfect. Lesson learned. Never changing it again.
 

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I would scrap the Bama tune and go with the professionals. VMP IMHO are the top predator when it comes to mailed tunes. It will be spot on !!
 
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