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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2012 w/SVTPP putting down 515 hp at the tire. Thats doing 5th gear pulls on a Dynojet. I have a 2.50" pulley, CAI and tune on 91 octane fuel. I drive the car on weekends 8 months out of the year basically. I drive it hard on the street (not the safest thing I know) in a straight line. I don't make a habit out of revving it high and dropping the clutch I just let it out quickly and get on it. So wheel hop isn't a major issue. I don't like the way it side steps sometimes when I up shift or sometimes around 4500rpm in 2nd gear at WOT. Should I just live with it or would changing the LCA help?
I bought a pair of BMR TCA032 boxed, non-adj, poly bushings last year but have not installed yet.
So ? is would BMR help with traction and would NVH increase much? I know opinions will very.
Thanks!
 

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2010 GT500, Kona Blue/White Stripes
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They should help, but won’t entirely cure the traction woes. BMRs poly bushings are known to be quite stiff so you can expect an increase in NVH. Everyone’s tolerance for NVH is different so it’ll be up to you if it’s an acceptable trade of or not. Worst case scenario is you take them back off if you don’t like them because the trade off of traction vs. NVH wasn’t worth it to you.
 

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It helps some, but it will still do it. At least that's been my experience. As far as traction, it won't help at all. Sticker tires will help. Now if your car is lowered and your LCA is angled down toward the front, restoring the angle to level or upward in the front will help with planting the rear end by giving you the correct the instant center to help launch the car... but you still need traction.
 

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2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Lower control arms are often mentioned relating to traction. I don’t always agree. If your car has been seriously lowered, putting relocation brackets will help get the geometry right again and this indirectly helps with traction. Also, squaring up the rear end with adjustable LCAs can help keep the car straight, HOWEVER, the best thing for traction and thus keeping your car from having its ass step out is a good set of sticky tires.
 

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It helps some, but it will still do it. At least that's been my experience. As far as traction, it won't help at all. Sticker tires will help. Now if your car is lowered and your LCA is angled down toward the front, restoring the angle to level or upward in the front will help with planting the rear end by giving you the correct the instant center to help launch the car... but you still need traction.
Yes! We were typing at the same time... I agree!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you guys!
The Nitto NT555 G2 are a huge improvement over the stock tires. I probably should have spend the extra money and got Michelin's. To late now.
While you guys are here. Whats the highest rpm you would drop the clutch at on street tires with TC off of course? Not to do a burnout but to just try to launch knowing you will have to shift quickly to 2nd. And whats the lowest psi you will run in the rear tires on the street?
Thanks again.
 

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2008 Metalic Vista Blue Convertible
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As @Catmonkey mentioned, It would help a LITTLE, if you really want to get it to launch in a straight direction it will take a bit more. Adjustable; UCA, LCA and Panhard w/ the brace. Lowered springs will also help with the relocates. The position of the LCA's and pinion angle is really the key. What you are attempting to do is a 'weight transfer' on hard acceleration. At your point of Mod's the best you can do is if you don't have Adj LCA's is install relocation brackets, and find the spot where the LCA's are level or best at 1-2* up toward the front. TIRES, tires, tires make the most difference with these cars for 'traction', the wider the better, the 'stickier' (& the softer compound the better), the trade off here is more/faster wear.

…..I drive the car on weekends 8 months out of the year basically.....
If this IS how/when you do drive it, then the tire wear shouldn't be a huge issue or 'burden' to trade for the "Fun Factor" of better TRACTION and control.....
 

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2008 Metalic Vista Blue Convertible
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...While you guys are here.
Whats the highest rpm you would drop the clutch at on street tires with TC off of course?
Not to do a burnout but to just try to launch knowing you will have to shift quickly to 2nd.
And whats the lowest psi you will run in the rear tires on the street?
Thanks again.
Me, around 3300 (and feather the throttle, depends lot on the surface of the pavement)
I don't have to quickly grab second, I had higher gear ratios installed in the transmission for 1st and 2nd to make the tranny useful!!! Along with complete upgraded synchro's.
Tire pressure depends; If just playing on the street, MTDR's ~18-20, if more serious 15, 'street tires' normal ~30
COLD PSI, here in AZ temps do get higher and so will the pressure.
 

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Thank you guys!
The Nitto NT555 G2 are a huge improvement over the stock tires. I probably should have spend the extra money and got Michelin's. To late now.
While you guys are here. Whats the highest rpm you would drop the clutch at on street tires with TC off of course? Not to do a burnout but to just try to launch knowing you will have to shift quickly to 2nd. And whats the lowest psi you will run in the rear tires on the street?
Thanks again.
I turn traction control off every time I start my 2011. The 2010+ cars have the added security of Stability Control. As for dropping the clutch... I don’t do it. It would be a smoke show. I do a quick slip of the clutch and feed the throttle in as traction allows.
 

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I have found that trading in my GT500 for a Ford E150 van solved my traction/wheelhop problems ……. :giggle:

(I'm sorry … I just couldn't resist ….. ?)

…. on a more serious note: I didn't care for the added noise and 'clunking' the poly LCA created on my 2008, and found that just replacing the "hard" Goodyear tires with a much softer compound tire made a much better improvement in ride and control.
 

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RE: Tire Pressure. Normally, with street radials a person can easily start to loose traction by lowering the air pressure to low. Each brand will heat up differently and start to go 'greasy' with differing amounts of lower air pressure. I used a infrared temperature reader on my rear 'factory' tires last week and found that the traction goes away when the air pressure dips below 29-28 pounds (hot). The point is to read the temperature at each side and the middle of the tread. You know you're at the perfect air pressure when all three spots come in at nearly equal temperatures. If you were drag racing, you'd discover that the right rear air pressure would be probably two pounds different than the left rear tire. I wouldn't know of Any street tire that wouldn't be worse off once you lowered the air pressure below 25psi.

a drag radial or bias ply is built not to grow in the center until a very high mph. A street tire will 'sag' in the center really easy with lower air pressure and you'll only be getting true traction on the edges. Go out and look at your tires right now and you will notice that they are probably more worn in the center or the edges. 5psi is changes a street radial A LOT! Nitro-Nicky
 
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