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2009 Shelby GT500 Vista Blue/White Stripes
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Discussion Starter #43
Ok time to let you all know what I changed. I did regap my BR7EF plugs to .030", installed them and did a 15 minute test drive and all was as before this episode started.

Does this part look familiar? It is this sensor that attaches to the fuel rail via (2) 8mm bolts that went bad. It has an electrical connection and a line that is fuel related going to front of the intake below the S/C snout. Ask me how I know it's fuel related. I don't know the exact name but if you Google the part # it comes up as a Fuel Injection Pressure Sensor.

Mine was already a brand new Motorcraft unit because I had broken the nipple off of my original one during one of my S/C removals when one of the S/C legs hit it. Probably had a few hundred miles on it and then suddenly it stopped working. Ford installed these on quite a few different engines over the years and they all, to my knowledge, had the same part # and that is why the one from my f-150 worked.

I have ordered a new one and it will be here by Friday. I just hope this one lasts more than a few hundred miles.

201814


201824


And now you all know what the real culprit was. I hope that this will help someone that ever has a similar situation.

Thank You all for your suggestions and or help. Every contribution was greatly appreciated. :geek: (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Now to go put that worthless old pile of junk (just kidding-my truck saved the day) back on my truck to get it running again.
 

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That would have been my next guess. Did it fail after the tune revision?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
That would have been my next guess. Did it fail after the tune revision?
It failed after I installed my ID 1050X injectors which was a "New Tune" with the HP software. I did, however, drive on this tune for about 1 month before this part failed. Everything was OK until I did my KAM reset. I'm thinking it was just a part failure and nothing to do with the tune, but then again I really don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I can’t see your tune or your PCM becoming corrupt. Something that can change has changed... hole in a tube, sensor gone whacky, etc...
By the way you were right when you mentioned a "sensor gone whacky". The print on the package that it comes in states ONE SENSOR and I hope that when I get this new one that it does not go whacky like the otha one did. ;)
 
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Moderator/Admin Dude!
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By the way you were right when you mentioned a "sensor gone whacky". The print on the package that it comes in states ONE SENSOR and I hope that when I get this new one that it does not go whacky like the otha one did. ;)
Funny Dave 😆
 
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Discussion Starter #50
Well I got my new part, installed it and then drove my Shelby for a while and it was at least as good as before, maybe even a little bettah as far as drivability goes. Same BR7EF spark plugs I took out and reinstalled and it idles great. WOT still pulls real hard. Just somewhat off on normal drivability, but not much, so I would say that maybe the old unit was a problem in the making until it finally suddenly quit working. I did, however, have 1 failsafe engine mode come up on a downshift whereas normally I would get at least 2 or 3. I think my Mono Blade is fine. I am still going to get it retuned for a little bettah drivability and maybe to put the tune on my SCT 4 in case I need to reinstall it at some point.

One thing I just remembered is that a few weeks before this part failed I would shut my cah off after it was warm I would try to restart it and it would crank and crank and crank maybe 20-30 times or more before starting. I would have to stop and try again sometimes because it would not start on the first try. I thought that this was odd and had something to do with the last tune, but now I'm thinking maybe not. Sometimes it got to the point that I thought it was not going to start at all. I will keep a close eye on it now.

Question:
Do you guys think I should stay with the HP tune and buy one of their gauges and a wideband O2 sensor to monitor some of my engines vitals or switch over to the SCT tune ?

I have the SCT 4, but I have nevah used it to monitor anything. I think I still need a wideband sensor for that too since my cah is an '09.
 

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One thing I just remembered is that a few weeks before this part failed I would shut my cah off after it was warm I would try to restart it and it would crank and crank and crank maybe 20-30 times or more before starting. I would have to stop and try again sometimes because it would not start on the first try. I thought that this was odd and had something to do with the last tune, but now I'm thinking maybe not. Sometimes it got to the point that I thought it was not going to start at all. I will keep a close eye on it now.
Is this only since the injector swap. I've experienced a similar issue with mine when the engine is hot, but I've done a number of things that have remedied the issue. I also have cams that further complicate the issue. There are functions specific to cranking routines. You might have your tuner lean fuel out during crank and for warmer temperatures. Mine starts fine now.

Question:
Do you guys think I should stay with the HP tune and buy one of their gauges and a wideband O2 sensor to monitor some of my engines vitals or switch over to the SCT tune ?

I have the SCT 4, but I have nevah used it to monitor anything. I think I still need a wideband sensor for that too since my cah is an '09.
I have the dual aeroforce gauges and 16 function is too much information. I'm going to reduce it to a smaller number like 8. Figure out what you want to monitor and focus on how to have that data. Most WOT functions you won't be able to monitor anyway, so they're somewhat useless. There are tattle tale gauges that can replay WOT routines. The problem with stand alone gauges is you only have so much real estate for placement. For example, my boost gauge can tell me what the highest boost it's recorded, just not what rpm it occurred. But really for WOT data, you really should log the car. I'd want to make sure the flash tool does that. I've always used SCT stuff because I'm locked into it by virtue of my software license with them, so I really can't comment on anything else out there. I'm sure HP Tuners has a good product too, but they're several years late to the game. These seem to have great user support through their forum. The more complex the PCMs are becoming the more tuning becomes a specialized discipline.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
@Catmonkey
It's always been harder to start when hot, but nowhere near at this level of almost not wanting to run. This did start after the injector swap and tune because I could not drive it before the tune. Have you done anything else besides tune stuff?

I wanted to test my cah a little before getting back to you. It took 8-10 cranks to start cold this morning. Only got 1 failsafe engine mode when I stepped on it somewhat in 4th gear and when I let off then that's when it happened. Engine was already warmed up. I went to my destination and it was shut down for 20 minutes. It took 10-12 cranks to start it. Seemed normal for my cah. I had no failsafe engine modes on my return trip and I got on it, upshifted quickly, downshifted quickly and jumped on and off the throttle a few times. I stopped to get my mail and it took another 10+12 cranks to start. I stepped on it in 1st kind of hard and then I got a P 0175 CEL for bank 2 running too rich. Shut it off and when I went to start it it took at least 30 cranks to start. Just like when I the sensor was going bad. I started again and it was back to 10-12 cranks. Weird, just weird. I think you may be right though as to having my tuner lean fuel out during crank. Maybe my new tuner can get it dialed in when I find one.

I do have the Shelby set for the center of the dash which monitors oil pressure, fuel pressure and boost. I haven't installed them and not sure I want to do it myself at my age. I do want to get an AFR gauge though and that should do it for me.
 

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I had a crazy experience this afternoon. Let me preface by saying I had a dead battery issue during the stay-at-home. I basically didn't go anywhere for a about 8 weeks and when I did I took my truck. Well when I needed the Shelby, because I had an axle issue surface in the truck, it was stone cold dead. I charged it up and have been driving it around for a couple weeks, until I can get to the truck.

I went out to get some ribeyes for dinner and after that stop, I went by the office to pick up a package and when I went to leave, it cranked for a good bit and died. I called my wife to come jump me and located my Ford warranty papers for this year-old battery. I had a similar experience with the battery when I changed the struts a week ago and was retraining my TPMS sensors. Stupid story on that too. I thought it was because of the battery dying, but I had a TPMS illumination and through I checked all the tires. But after checking again after the retrain, I had a tire below pressure. I have a high tech gauge that you have to press a valve to bleed it and probably didn't do that on the one tire that was low. During the course of my conversation, I didn't realize my automatic lights were on when I finished the retrained and my next door neighbor walked over and distracted me for a a while. When I went to start the car, the battery only craned the engine over a couple of revolutions and started the death clicking. I figure I probably killed the battery and today's episode tends to confirm that.

So, I'm not sure I've completely resolved my issue. It should have started before the battery failed, but then the battery should have more stamina than it did. I did find my battery was low on acid when I got home. I filled it with distilled water and have it on a charger. There's also a routine for air charge during crank that may need some adjustment, that I may need to experiment with too. I've had to add a lot of air at idle for the throttle body and the cam and the crank routine is still stock values. I played with it before leaning out the crank at hot engine temps. I'm thinking I may need to do both. This routine tapers off for less air the hotter the engine gets.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I replaced my original battery last year too. The old one lasted a long time. It's always been on a Battery Tender and maybe this had something to do with it. It always cranks fast and for a long time if I let it, but I don't want to overheat the starter. I've, knock on wood, nevah had a battery issue. Mine is a sealed unit and no water can be added. I have the same type of tire gauge.

Hopefully you'll get your cah running right again. They just seem to go whacky every so often and then it's up us or someone we know to try and figure out what went wrong.

Funny, I don't remember having any of these issues back in the day when fuel injection and computers were not common place. Sure we had issues, but it's a totally different ball game nowadays.
 

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We had accelerator pumps. A couple blips of the throttle and that was all you needed to add a little fuel. I was studying some of the crank routines yesterday and I think maybe one routine I came across leads me to believe they lean the crap out of hotter temps. I just can't find any info on it, but looking across the temperature range, it's a bit extreme at 150* and beyond. If I have any luck with it I'll post it up.
 
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