2020 CFTP on order 2011 Kona Blue/white
I can’t see your tune or your PCM becoming corrupt. Something that can change has changed... hole in a tube, sensor gone whacky, etc...
I would not think so either, but I suppose anything is possible with electronics. Maybe I should do a smoke test tomorrow on it even though I don't think I'll find anything.I can’t see your tune or your PCM becoming corrupt. Something that can change has changed... hole in a tube, sensor gone whacky, etc...
Have you tried re-flashing the tune?I really appreciate all of the help you guys have given me. However, my question still remains unanswered.
Why is this a sudden event? I have run this Sh*tty tune for over a month and although it is/was not as good as my original tune from Texas with the 47# injectors, my car started and ran. Now suddenly it doesn't. It is running extremely rich. Why?
There is no way my car went from running Ok one minute and then the next it is running like crap without a minor/major malfunction happening to make it run this rich. At least not in my eyes.
1) Did the tune become corrupt? Is that possible?
2) Do I have a bad fuel pressure regulator?
3) Is an an o2 sensor going or gone bad?
4) Could something have happened to the PCM?
Has anyone had any of the above happen to them and if so what was the fix? Just trying to get a grip on what happened. Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. I am already looking for a new tuner.
I did call BJ and of course he doesn't do CA cars, but he did give the name of a tuner up north which is too far away for me. The search continues.
I have a new set already gapped. Maybe I should install them after my smoke test and see if it gets any better. I also have projected tip ones. Maybe I should give those a shot too. I don't think it will, but hey it's worth a shot. After all I have nothing to lose.I'm wondering if the plugs are just too gummed up to spark. You could try and clean them if you understandably don't want to buy new ones.
I'm not sure it makes any difference. HP Tuner and SCT have different software, but I'm not sure the flash device is specific to the software. There may be an exception when it comes to Lund and the Ngauge. I'm sure you could contact SCT support and they can advise you if it would work or not. I'm not solid on this assumption, so do a little research. I'm not sure changing the plugs is going to have any effect.I can't. I wish I could. I have an SCT 4 programmer which I know I could store the tune on, but they had to use an HP tuner and I don't even know how that one works anyway.
Where do you live in California I have a friend 25 plus years works for Ford in the high performance as a mechanic just took him my Shelby K R and got it back and he does side work at the dealership a lot cheaper then the dealer maybe he can helpAs many of you know I bought my highly modified 2009 Shelby GT500 from Texas 3 and a half years ago. I flew to Texas, test drove it and had it shipped to SoCal. It ran great for 2 months and then one day my failsafe engine mode light came on and after that it came on periodically. Then more and more and more but no CEL's so I didn't worry to much about it. Then one day, maybe a few months later, I got my first CEL. It was a P0171 and P0174 which were for running lean.
This is where I need to mention that I had stock 47# injectors, a 2.9 Whipple S/C with the Crusher inlet, a 123mm Whipple Mono Blade throttle body, a Fore triple pump returnless fuel system with the upgraded fuel lines, fuel filter and Fore fuel rails (supposedly good for 1,200 HP) a ZONE 5 Performance MDM to run the returnless fuel system and 19 lbs. of boost running 730 RWHP and 711 RWTQ. It never, ever, ever, ever threw a CEL at WOT and it pulled like a freight train. Did I mention never? It only threw a CEL at lower engine speeds and because of this I never worried too much about it.
At one point I had mentioned that I was running stock 47# fuel injectors on this forum and some members here suggested getting larger ones because of my mods while yet others did not know why my engine was still together. Well I finally bought a set of ID 1050X injectors, installed them and had my Shelby towed to my tuner for a custom tune.
Now here's where my situation gets interesting. I already have an SCT 4 programmer which I always leave in my glove box and I had mentioned to my tuner, who is a well known and respected tuner in SoCal., about the Whipple Mono Blade throttle body and they said no problem. I have heard stories about tuning with a Mono Blade in that it can be difficult to get it right. We can do it they said. Fine. My car was there for 4 days. Ok fine. I want it right. Within that time frame I called periodically to see how my car was coming along. Well, turns out, they cannot tune it with the SCT programmer. What? You told me you could. Well, they could not, even after calling SCT. Something to do with living in this Sh*thole state known as CA. or so they said. I even gave them my sisters address in MA., but no deal. Ok so now they have to go with HP tuners, but I have to buy a couple of HP credits at $60 each and I have no programmer to store my new tune on, just in case. Ok fine.
On a side note: I called another well known tuner afterwards and explained my situation to him and he said no problem. They do tunes all the time with the SCT programmer and the Mono Blade throttle body. Go figure. Who's BS should one believe anymore?
Four days later my car is done.
Mind you I picked it up on day 4 which was a Saturday and they don't reopen until Tuesday.
1) When I first started it, it stalled and it was stumbling/hesitating when revved a little in neutral. Almost I did not take it, but then I decided to give it a shot figuring maybe it needed a little time for the PCM to adjust to it or make adjustments.
2) When I took off in first and gave it a little gas it also stumbled/hesitated before going.
3) Idle was a little high at 1,050 RPM's or so.
4) When I shifted I noticed it was hanging around 3,500-4,000 for a few seconds before returning to normal which caused slipping of the clutch when letting the pedal out.
5) When it was started in the morning when it was cold it did not rev up somewhat and then idle down as it warmed up. It would barely run and then idle up after a few seconds.
6) I felt a loss of power as opposed to my 47# injectors, although not drastic, but they said I gained 49 HP from when they did the datalog last November at 717 RWHP and the Dyno sheet showed it, but something was off. I know my car.
7) Traction control kept kicking in whereas in my original tune it was disabled. What A PITA that is.
8) I never got another CEL for running lean, but I did get a couple for P1072 and P0175 was are for running rich.
After this I call them back to fix my car. It had to be there at 9:00 A.M. on the day I took it. What a crock of Sh*t. It sat there for 3 days before they even touched it. They supposedly worked on it over a period of 3 more days, on the dyno and road testing and they never called me to let me know what was going on after they said they would. At this point I had enough. I called them and told them not to touch my car anymore. I will be there in the morning to pick it up.
I picked my car up and nothing had changed except that the traction control was disabled. Luckily they gave me my money back and then they were supposed to come to my house to remove their tune which they never did. I kind of wish they had. The only downside was that I would have had to remove the S/C again and reinstall my 47# injectors. At this point I decided to drive my car and see if the PCM would relearn anything to make it run better. It didn't.
THEY SUSPECT MY MONO BLADE THROTTLE BODY IS TO BLAME FOR THEM NOT BEING ABLE TO TUNE MY CAR RIGHT.
I SAY THEN WHY WAS IT FINE BEFORE YOU GUYS TOUCHED IT. NOT PERFECT, BUT WAY, WAY BETTER.
Fast forward to last week. I disconnected the negative cable on the battery for 2 days. Don't ask me why I picked 2 days, but I did. Therefore 2 days later I reconnected the cable hoping that a KAM reset would change things. It started ok and I let it idle for 15 minutes without touching anything to let everything reset and then I shut it off. I then waited 2 more days and started it up. I let it run about a minute before trying to move it and when I started to drive it, it started puking, hacking, coughing, stutterring, idling extremely low and then shutting off. I'm like WTF? I had gone about 200 feet and in that distance I had to restart it at least 15 times and barely made it back to my garage to park it. I had smelled gasoline fumes in my engine bay about a week earlier but could find no leaks. I could also smell gas fumes inside my garage with the door open while it was trying to idle suggesting that it was running rich. It was. Here is what I found when I pulled the plugs and all 8 are exactly the same.
This extremely rich condition IS NOT throwing any CEL codes.
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I reinstalled these same plugs until I can find out what's going on as I don't want to mess up a new set. So far I have checked all the fuses which were good and changed up some relays to no avail, cleaned the MAF sensor, checked all vacuum lines for deterioration or cracks, checked my CAI for possible air leakage, checked my air filter for being clogged and removed and checked all electrical connections that I could.
I have no gauges in my car other than the factory ones to check anything with.
Does anyone know what's going on or has anyone had this problem? Could it be an O2 sensor or fuel pressure regulator?
If I read the post right southern Cali iam in Anaheim call me I can connect u with him 714)920-7921Where do you live in California I have a friend 25 plus years works for Ford in the high performance as a mechanic just took him my Shelby K R and got it back and he does side work at the dealership a lot cheaper then the dealer maybe he can help