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Discussion Starter #1
My friend has a 2014 gt500. Making north of 1200hp+ we are trying to get an idea on what needs to be done to get traction?

Car has complete rear BMR suspension. Adjustable Lower Arms ..Upper Adjustable Arm.. Pan-hard Bar..Sway-Bar. 17" racestar wheels with 305/45/17 "Mickey Thompson ET streets R's" Viking rear shocks

Car can not get traction. From a. Dig zero. From a 40mph roll zero. From a 70mph roll. Breaks loose bad. Around 85-90. Its manageable but heck almost doing 100 before the pull.

Pinion angle is -2* shocks are setup to Vikings recommended settings. For drag. Air pressure is 20pis.

Idea's on what needs to be done? Any settings that would help?
 

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Until you can find a tire that has some semblance of traction, no amount of adjustment is going to do anything. Are you trying to hook up on the street or the track? If it's on the street, you just need to dial back the boost and the power. At the track, I think you're going to need a bias ply wrinkle wall slick.
 

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Street..and it's a tvs supercharger. Hard to dial back boost without swapping pulleys and belts. To much work.
 

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The guy does not want to back off power keep what he has and make it hook. If we have to change suspension. Or add something can do. Is what I am meaning. If there was a way to adjust the boost throughout the RPM range like on a Turbo we would do that if possible but this being VMP blower
 

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From a dig, - 12 to 15 psi, heat the tires using your line lock, launch around 3K.
............Can't help you from a roll..
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20psi is too high for a car making that kind of power on those tires. Is he on the BMR drag springs?

If he wants to make 1200hp and try to hook on the street he's going to have to learn to live with driving a wallowing pig due to low pressure in the rear tires. The only other option is looking into an advanced traction control system and a replacement ecu like the Motec that Fathouse Fabrication are using on their twin turbo cars. Even they are primarily getting traction by utilizing boost by gear though on their big horsepower cars, can't really do that with a blower.

In the end driving a 4 digit horsepower car on the street is a pain in the ass and something that sounds a lot cooler on internet forums and Facebook groups than it lives up to in reality. There are massive sacrifices that have to be made to make a 4-digit hp car hook on the street and at some level it never really will work perfectly. Tell him to take it easy on the street or step the rear brakes down, slap some 15" wheels on it with some real slicks, and pray it doesn't ever rain.
 

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I have viking drag springs with adjustable perches I'll sell you. $150+shipping
 

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I have viking drag springs with adjustable perches I'll sell you. $150+shipping
Welcome to the forum!

Do you have a GT500? If you’d like to introduce yourself and show us your ride, you’ll find our new member area here:

 

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Welcome to the challenge of the street......

Even at 800whp and now 900+whp its a massive problem, I did a 6R80 swap in mine so I have a second gear leave tune that locks out first gear given it's a 4.17 ratio and is completely useless. Even with the second gear leave tune I have to pedal it out of the hole, this is on a semi prepped street with the burnout in prep.

You need your suspension set up as optimal as possible, anti roll bar, LCA's I'v found should be in the highest hole, compression low rebound slow for rear (I have mine to 4c/12r) and fronts as loose as they can be. I run a 275/60-15 rear at all times, bias ply tire is a must since a radial doesn't absorb/flex as much, once they break loose they'll spin to the moon, where the bias you'll still make forward progression.

The street with a PD blower even at 600-700 whp will be tough from a dig, none the less 800 or all the way up to the 1200 your friends has, like others have mentioned a standalone ECU with an advanced traction system would help a lot but they are not cheap.

I've struggled to try and make it work for a while but you can only apply so much power on the street, having that much power is just a ego/dyo'queen thing or makes the car a highway roll car (so a one trick pony/relatively useless) and this is coming from me who has a 900+whp PD car...... I kind of hate how hard it is to use the car, it has to be above 70 degrees, heat in the tires and it maybe will hook from a second gear 40 roll, and as far as a dig its a matter of slowly getting into it and having everything set up correctly.
 

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Like someone else mentioned, start with 15" wheels. The vikings settings are a starting point. It takes lots of hits with different settings to find the sweet spot for your setup. -2 pinion is for a poly bushing. I would think with that much power you would have a spherical rod end on you UCA mount, in which case the correct pinion angle would be -1. Also, stated, but needs restating, that's a crap ton of power to get to hook on the street. In fact, that's a big challenge to get it to hook on a prepped track. Lots of good suggestions here, but not sure any of them will get you dead hooking with that heavy car and that much Hp. Good luck.
 

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Street..and it's a tvs supercharger. Hard to dial back boost without swapping pulleys and belts. To much work.
Just so you know since it seems like money isn't an issue, you can run a wastegated setup with a boost controller to dial things back and try to shape things a little better.
I think the AMS2000 is one of the more common ones to use. I have seen this done on a BIG power TVS GT500 street car down at Power by the Hour on one of Alex's videos

PS: this is why turbo cars are easier to deal with. You can ramp in boost however you like in a plethora of diff ways with boost control.
 

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Just so you know since it seems like money isn't an issue, you can run a wastegated setup with a boost controller to dial things back and try to shape things a little better.
I think the AMS2000 is one of the more common ones to use. I have seen this done on a BIG power TVS GT500 street car down at Power by the Hour on one of Alex's videos

PS: this is why turbo cars are easier to deal with. You can ramp in boost however you like in a plethora of diff ways with boost control.
Yeah that's definitely the best option but expensive, I'm so over my higher HP TVS power delivery, I really want to switch to turbo but dont want to spend the money to do so.... Next car...
 

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Yeah that's definitely the best option but expensive, I'm so over my higher HP TVS power delivery, I really want to switch to turbo but dont want to spend the money to do so.... Next car...
I am a turbo guy that just has been messing with blowers the last 5 yrs or so. I am totally over blowers. My tuner keeps telling me to take it off and put a turbo or 2 on mine, but i refuse. I will be better off selling the car and getting a later model S197 GT and turboing it and pocketing some money out of it.
 

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I am a turbo guy that just has been messing with blowers the last 5 yrs or so. I am totally over blowers. My tuner keeps telling me to take it off and put a turbo or 2 on mine, but i refuse. I will be better off selling the car and getting a later model S197 GT and turboing it and pocketing some money out of it.
Couldn’t agree more, so much better off turbo’ing something that’s naturally aspirated to start. I already have way to much money into my current car. It’ll stay annoying PD blower and I’ll turbo something else down the road
 
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