It has more to do with monitoring compressor pressures while the engine is running than fault codes.I will check that out to see if they are reporting a fault or if any reading.
It has more to do with monitoring compressor pressures while the engine is running than fault codes.I will check that out to see if they are reporting a fault or if any reading.
Yeah I figured it would either give a pressure reading or something abnormal or no input at all to indicate a fault. The compressor is not coming on so the pressures are about equal 25 to 30 low and high side from the manifold gauge set I connected. I didn't want to jump the relay with the car on to force the compressor on because I don't want to mess the compressor up.It has more to do with monitoring compressor pressures while the engine is running than fault codes.
I doubt you got hardly anything in it if it was 60. When the compressor isn’t running, the only way for refrigerant to flow into an already pressurized system is for the can to be at a higher pressure than the car.When I attempted to charge it ambient temp was about 60 degrees. Not sure if that makes a difference.
Which switch should i change the pigtail? the low pressure 3 pin switch in the front or the ac clutch cycle switch between the engine and firewall that's almost impossible to get to.
What was the ambient temperature when you saw 25 PSI on both sides of the system? Unless it was very cold, you almost certainly are low on refrigerant.Yeah I figured it would either give a pressure reading or something abnormal or no input at all to indicate a fault. The compressor is not coming on so the pressures are about equal 25 to 30 low and high side from the manifold gauge set I connected. I didn't want to jump the relay with the car on to force the compressor on because I don't want to mess the compressor up.
Strange that you couldn’t find a leak source. You lost a lot of refrigerant.Ac is now working! I brought it to a friend's shop to evacuate the system and remove any moisture and run a leak test. Then fill with correct charge. No leaks on test but only 2oz came out of the system. Which is confusing because there is no leak. It turns out it was just a coincidence with when the ac decided to stop working from low charge. I didn't disrupt anything when swapping the o2 sensor.
Glad you got it fixed.Car was garage kept and no sign of freon loss on the floor or allover anything. I'm thinking you may be right that it was maybe a slow leak at one of the switches I replaced. Car is 15 years old and who knows how long it's been leaking or if the ac has ever been recharged. Thanks for the help everyone!