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Moderator/Admin Dude!
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Can’t wait to try it, about 18 days until delivery and beautiful spring days in the northeast are making it harder.
Ahhh, I misread your post... I thought you had your car and were not enjoying the tranny in the new 500. A word of caution.... there are quite a few customizable things with the car... driving modes (normal/my mode/sport/track/drag/slippery), exhaust modes (normal/sport/track/quiet), suspension modes (normal/sport), steering modes (normal/sport) and last but not least, tranny modes. With the tranny, you basically have 3 kind-of modes (2 really + always live paddles):

Automatic: fire and forget... it will shift up/down and changes with drive modes. In drag or track, it will NAIL the shifts at 7500 when standing on the gas pedal. This is the best mode when going for max performance driving. It is basically impossible to nail the shifts at 7500 yourself. You’ll either short shift or hit the rev limiter. If you really want to feel over-torque shifting, select drag and nail the gas with the steering wheel top dead center! 🤟

Manual (M) locked-in: tranny will downshift on its own to prevent lugging the engine, but will not upshift without you hitting the paddle. Use this for fun driving, but if you get a phone call or any other distraction, hit the M button again to exit this mode... it’s easy to forget you are locked-in... you will see!

Automatic with paddle override: when in automatic shift mode, the paddles are always live. The tranny will up/down shift like normal automatic mode, but you can pull a paddle at any time to temporarily lock in a gear of choice. As long as the gear is within reason (not above redline or will cause lugging), the tranny will switch to your commanded gear and will remain there for a period before resuming automatic shifting again.
 

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Great breakdown thsnks. So Auto mode adjusts shift point rpm based on drive mode and throttle position, Manual works the same as what I’m used to with SMG, and Auto w/paddle override is similar but once a manual shift is made SMG switches to manual mode and stays there vs waiting before resuming auto shifting which I think will be better in the GT500.

Does shift speed change based on drive mode, or is it always the same, fast, milliseconds shift?
 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 CFTP Red! 2011 Kona Blue
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Great breakdown thsnks. So Auto mode adjusts shift point rpm based on drive mode and throttle position, Manual works the same as what I’m used to with SMG, and Auto w/paddle override is similar but once a manual shift is made SMG switches to manual mode and stays there vs waiting before resuming auto shifting which I think will be better in the GT500.

Does shift speed change based on drive mode, or is it always the same, fast, milliseconds shift?
Shift speeds are affected by drive mode, steering wheel and yaw. Normal drive mode will have slower shift speeds than sport or drag. Track Mode is quick, but will ease up on the shifts when hitting corners hard or yaw is induced. There is also a sensor in the steering wheel that feeds data to the tranny... with the steering wheel top dead center, you get the quickest/hardest shifts. At the drag strip, try not to deflect the wheel left/right when the ass wiggles on shifts.

As for the RPMs that shifts happen... it depends on drive mode and throttle position. Gentle throttle in Normal Mode will give you shifts focused on fuel economy. The opposite would be standing on the gas pedal in Drag Mode where shifts will be nailed at 7500! 🤟

The best thing to do is play with the different modes... you’ll get a feel for the differences.
 
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Shift speeds are affected by drive mode, steering wheel and yaw. Normal drive mode will have slower shift speeds than sport or drag. Track Mode is quick, but will ease up on the shifts when hitting corners hard or yaw is induced. There is also a sensor in the steering wheel that feeds data to the tranny... with the steering wheel top dead center, you get the quickest/hardest shifts. At the drag strip, try not to deflect the wheel left/right when the ass wiggles on shifts.

As for the RPMs that shifts happen... it depends on drive mode and throttle position. Gentle throttle in Normal Mode will give you shifts focused on fuel economy. The opposite would be standing on the gas pedal in Drag Mode where shifts will be nailed at 7500! 🤟

The best thing to do is play with the different modes... you’ll get a feel for the differences.
Sounds really smart and often mentioned in youtube reviews how well it does what you want it to, can’t wait!! Want to sign up for Track Attack in June and reserve a spot but haven’t taken delivery so the torture continues.
 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
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Sounds really smart and often mentioned in youtube reviews how well it does what you want it to, can’t wait!! Want to sign up for Track Attack in June and reserve a spot but haven’t taken delivery so the torture continues.
Out of all the insanity that makes up the new 500, I’d put the brakes at the top of the ridiculously awesome list! The transmission is a close 2nd! I wish everyone clamoring for a manual tranny option would get some seat time to see for themselves... the DCT is absolutely EPIC! 🤟

As for your Track Attack slot... all you can do is wait. Keep in mind that summer in Charlotte while wearing a helmet and fire suit while in a vehicle with the windows up and AC off will be an absolute sweat fest! You aren’t allowed to use the AC at the drag strip... you can use it on the road course though. I went in the spring and fall for this reason.
 
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Out of all the insanity that makes up the new 500, I’d put the brakes at the top of the ridiculously awesome list!
Have the factory pads and brake fluid held up with track use? I’m used to swapping low dust street pads for track pads with amazing bite, and high temp brake fluid changed regularly.
 

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Have the factory pads and brake fluid held up with track use? I’m used to swapping low dust street pads for track pads with amazing bite, and high temp brake fluid changed regularly.
I have eight 25ish minute track sessions on my car with the factory brake setup over two days. I have another full track day scheduled later this month. The brakes are 100% always there... no matter how hot you get them at the track, they are always there! I will probably change out the brake fluid to factory specs again after my 3rd track day, but I have noticed zero decay in the car’s braking capability to date. The brakes on this car are waaaay over engineered.
 

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Have the factory pads and brake fluid held up with track use? I’m used to swapping low dust street pads for track pads with amazing bite, and high temp brake fluid changed regularly.
Is there a low dust pad option for these calipers?
 

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2020 Shelby GT500 base + handling pack
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Out of all the insanity that makes up the new 500, I’d put the brakes at the top of the ridiculously awesome list! The transmission is a close 2nd! I wish everyone clamoring for a manual tranny option would get some seat time to see for themselves... the DCT is absolutely EPIC! 🤟

As for your Track Attack slot... all you can do is wait. Keep in mind that summer in Charlotte while wearing a helmet and fire suit while in a vehicle with the windows up and AC off will be an absolute sweat fest! You aren’t allowed to use the AC at the drag strip... you can use it on the road course though. I went in the spring and fall for this reason.
They didn't want us using AC at the road course either - but it was also windows down for that, so I didn't notice it as much.

Is there a low dust pad option for these calipers?
Yeah I'd like to hear that too --- these things are the dustiest brakes I've ever had (fair enough the best as well). I don't know how you guys that show these cars keep them clean (besides cleaning them after you drive to the show).
 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
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I don't know how you guys that show these cars keep them clean (besides cleaning them after you drive to the show).
My weapon of choice:

213624
 

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Is there a low dust pad option for these calipers?
I hope so, didn’t get my CFHP yet but black painted CF wheels will def show the dust. Haven’t searched for brake pad options on GT500, so many choices for M3 which I have low dust set for street and Pagid track pads.
 

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I hope so, didn’t get my CFHP yet but black painted CF wheels will def show the dust. Haven’t searched for brake pad options on GT500, so many choices for M3 which I have low dust set for street and Pagid track pads.
PowerStop Z23/Z26 pads are very popular in the Hellcat community for use as low dust pads. I used them on my Redeye. They’re good for street use, not for track use (obviously), and emit very little dust. Stopping power was perfect everyday street use. Looks like PowerStop offers a front set only for the GT500. Z26-2267 - $120 per front set. I couldn’t find anything from them for the rear calipers. I’m considering taking the plunge, but really don’t want to just change front pads. I’d like to swap all 4 corners at once.
 

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PowerStop Z23/Z26 pads are very popular in the Hellcat community for use as low dust pads. I used them on my Redeye. They’re good for street use, not for track use (obviously), and emit very little dust. Stopping power was perfect everyday street use. Looks like PowerStop offers a front set only for the GT500. Z26-2267 - $120 per front set. I couldn’t find anything from them for the rear calipers. I’m considering taking the plunge, but really don’t want to just change front pads. I’d like to swap all 4 corners at once.
Sounds like a good option for street use and not too expensive. Agree doing all 4 is the way to go. Since fronts get the most dust I might start with them to help, also save wear on factory pads when it’s time for track days. But for high mph tracks race compound pads will outperform factory that have to be decent for all around driving. Takes a couple laps to get race pads to reach proper temp and full bite.
 
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