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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Well, here is the first 2020 “mod thread.” I installed the oil separator last night and took many pictures of each step to help the next guy that does this install. The separator is nothing like the 5-second catch can install of the 07-14 cars. This separator does not require emptying... it separates the oil and allows it to drain back into the engine.

I ended up with 2 of these kits since the early info from Ford indicated that the kit did not come with the handling pack cars... only the CFTP cars were listed as having this in the trunk. I can confirm the handling package cars do have the separator and the base cars do not. I sold the second unit.

Here is the kit:


As of this thread, Ford has no online instructions. There is a printed set of instructions with some head-scratching moments (I think this is due to the separator can be used on other Mustangs too). Also, the printed pictures are dark and you can’t always see what you need.

So here we go...!

I protected the car with towels:

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1a. Cut and remove wiring harness retention straps (brown):

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1b. Remove retention strap strap standoffs from cam cover stud bolts. I chose not to destroy these and took the time to unscrew them. They are a 1-way push-on type retainer that locks onto the threads:

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2. Disengage coil wires at coil #2 and #3. Lift the white locking tab up (towards supercharger):
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3. Lift the wire harness slightly to reroute the coil wires from on top to behind/under the harness and reconnect coil wires. Push white locking tabs down to lock plugs:

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4a. Bracket install... position bracket under strut tower brace and under silver covered wire harness (located under strut tower brace). Lift coil wire black wire harness to get driver’s side bolt holes onto cam cover stud bolts.

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4b. Ford’s instructions say to secure with 3 “10 mm nuts.” These are in-fact 8 mm nuts:

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The instructions also recommend using a magnetic socket to prevent dropping the nuts in the engine bay. I didn’t have magnetic sockets. I stuffed a rag down where the nut would fall trying to get it onto the hardest stud bolt (passenger side). I grabbed this nut between my pointer and middle fingers and was able to get it onto the stud bolt without dropping. I then spun it with my fingertips to secure the nut.

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Discussion Starter #2
4c. Instructions say to “verify clearance between bracket and coil wires.” I saw no issue here. Tighten all 3 nuts. Instructions list 5-7 Nm:

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5. Install 2 stud protectors. This step had me scratching my head a bit since Ford’s picture showed just the gray protectors, but the protectors in the kit also had black wire ties on them:

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I later came to the conclusion that the black wire ties are NOT for the GT500. They are most likely for another Mustang... possibly the GT350. I removed the black wire ties and slid the gray protectors onto the 2 stud bolts by the coil wire harness.

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6. Install two 8mm push pin tie straps to holes under the coil wire harness. Ford had worded this differently in their instructions and I couldn’t see these holes initially which lead to more head scratching. Just lift the harness slightly and you’ll see the holes.

There are 3 of these... use the 2 matching larger ones for this step:

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Screwdriver is pointing to where I inserted the front one:

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Both are in position:

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Wrap wire tires over coil wire harness and push through the locking hole at base. I cut off the excess:

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7a. Loosely install the last push pin wire tie (small 6.5 mm) onto the transmission wire harness. Orient this strap so the part to pull is towards the front of the car.

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7b. Push the push pin on the tie strap into the matching sized hole located at the back of the oil separator mounting bracket and then pull the strap tight to secure transmission wire harness.

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Discussion Starter #3
8. Remove PCV hose (passenger cam cover to supercharger). Save hose for reuse if kit is ever removed.

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9. For whatever reason, there was no “step 9” in the printed instructions. I’m matching the steps in the printed instructions, so for step 9: Go potty and take a nap!

10. Hope you had a good nap! This step gave me a good laugh... Ford’s instructions simply say: “Remove PCV from passenger side engine cam cover. Note: When/if the kit is ever removed from the vehicle, a new PCV will be required.”

What they don’t tell you is HOW to remove the PCV! Judging from the note, I am assuming they plan on people breaking out a chainsaw and a few sticks of dynamite to remove the PCV... I came close! The blue plastic PCV has 2 locking barbs on the side that only allow it to be screwed into place. The barbs prevent it from being removed. I tried a few different things and even looked online. Nothing was working. I then broke out my needle-nose pliers and went in at an angle that allowed the tips to put pressure on the locking barbs while twisting to unscrew it... it worked!!!

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11. Install cam cover vent tube. Ford’s instructions say: “Slightly raise the forward edge of the coil cover, 1-16 inch open end wrench, fully seat vent tube.” Who the hell has a 1-16 inch open end wrench...? I have a 1-16 inch socket!

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As lovely as that big socket was, it didn’t fit in the cutout circle on the plastic coil cover.

I went back to my “angled needle-nose pliers” technique to tighten the tube... it worked!

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12. Connect PCV hose KR3V-6K817-AB to rear of oil separator.

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13. Install oil separator assembly onto bracket. Get your head down low and look at the bracket tabs you must slide the separator into. Alight the separator with the slide tabs and slide the separator aft into position. Finish this step by tightening the front mount bolt. Ford lists 10 +/- 1.5 Nm.

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14. Connect oil separator inlet tube to cam cover. This is the tube you connected to the back of the separator in step 12. The above picture shows it clipped into place.

15. Remove plug from cam cover. Use 1/4” internal hex (allen type) drive. I used a 1/4 inch socket with a 1/4 inch allen bit. It requires a fair amount of force and will “POP” loose:

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16. Install 90 degree fitting into the hole where you just removed the plug. Hand-tighten roughly 4 turns. It’s in a tight space, but there is enough room to rotate the fitting:

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
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Discussion Starter #4
17. Disconnect VCT electrical connector to enable clearance to tighten jam nut on the 90 degree fitting:

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18/19/20: Install drain hose and clamps. Orient front clamp towards front of vehicle so it doesn’t rub the AC hose. Also tighten jam nut on 90 degree fitting after making sure no kinks are in the drain hose:

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Tightening jam nut:

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21. Reconnect VCT electrical connector:

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22. Install remaining PCV tube (KR3V-6K817-BA) to top of oil separator and at the supercharger. This tube can damn near go in either way. It looked to be the best fit with the label closest to the separator:

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Congratulations on a successful mod! ?

Additional pics:

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Discussion Starter #5
This is how it comes:

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Premium Member
2007 GT500 Torch Red/White custom
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I'm so glad mine is a 'less-desirable' with it's 2.3 minute 'catch-can' install !

o_O
Agree Ken:p Although that is pretty cool that the oil gets reused.(y)Nice write up Tim.
 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Discussion Starter #8
I'm so glad mine is a 'less-desirable' with it's 2.3 minute 'catch-can' install !

o_O
You are slow Ken! My 2011 JLT catch can took less than 10 seconds. This is a waaaaay nicer separator though.
 

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#1 Mike!
2019 Shelby GT350
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A very good write up for those who can afford the new GT500! ?! I suspect the printed instruction sheet has a small, lettered, statement "made in China"! Nice write up Tim! Put it on youtube! I understand that the GT350 instructions are much better!;)
 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
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Discussion Starter #14
My buddy's car had this on his. All installed by the dealership I believe.
Yes, this is part of the dealer prep if you want them to do it. I personally didn’t want them washing the car or installing parts without me there. Service techs don’t treat your car like you do. I was able to do this install without a single nick, scratch or dropped fastener. Since these cars are new and relatively low-volume, the techs have never done this before. I didn’t want them learning on my car.
 

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100% understood. His dealer did all the install stuff and then basically handed him the keys. I was trying to teach him some things about the car that he didn't even know yet.
 

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I was just on the edge of buying a new GT500 .... but not after reading all this extensive work that needs to be done !!! LOL

(great write up / pictures Gooseman ..... as usual ... :) )
 

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#1 Mike!
2019 Shelby GT350
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Yes, this is part of the dealer prep if you want them to do it. I personally didn’t want them washing the car or installing parts without me there. Service techs don’t treat your car like you do. I was able to do this install without a single nick, scratch or dropped fastener. Since these cars are new and relatively low-volume, the techs have never done this before. I didn’t want them learning on my car.
If you can fly one of those big ass jets you sure can handle an oil separator installation!
 

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2014 GT500 Coupe SGM " 1 of 1 "
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8. Remove PCV hose (passenger cam cover to supercharger). Save hose for reuse if kit is ever removed.
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195764

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Not as engineered as Ford's $ 400 unit, my $ 50.00 Jegs filter was spliced into the OEM tubing on my 17 F150, & doesn't drain into the oil pan, so it needs to be emptied..
.

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Good write up, Goose. Seems overly complicated for a simple oil separator install. I see that JLT has their 2020 GT500 delivered already (same color as yours). I'm guessing they have a plug and play separator ready to go within 2 months.
 
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