Ford Shelby GT500 Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
Joined
·
31,685 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The 2020 GT500s have been arriving with an assembly line flaw. There is a heater hose that gets misaligned during the car/engine mating step resulting in the hose getting pinched. It gets stuck on some rather sharp bits and it’s only a matter of time until the hose gets damaged enough to leak coolant. Yes, this would be covered under warranty, but I have no desire to have dealer techs climb all over the engine bay making marks and scratches... so I tackled this project myself and documented the steps for those that follow.

First off, pics of the problem:

197467


197468


The black hose riding up on the back of the supercharger is not down in the channel that was made for it. I tried to move it into place with the strut tower brace in place, but struck out.

197469


Tools needed:
Ratcheting box wrench: 13mm & 15mm
Sockets: 15mm, 10mm & 8mm
Trim push-pin removal tool

1. Get a prop rod of some sort and disconnect the hood strut. I used a broom handle with rags on both ends.

197470


Use a flathead screwdriver to pull the locking clip out. I didn’t pull it all the way off.

197471


197472


I jammed rags under the hood prop rod and had that set as a secondary hood support just in case the broom handle got hit.

2. Remove battery cover. There are 3 plastic trim hand screws that hold it in place as well as tabs in the back.

197473


197474


3a. Remove the 4 main strut tower nuts. The battery cable hold down clip will back off when you use the 15mm box wrench on the passenger side forward but. No need to try and muscle it off. Use 15mm deep socket on other 3 exposed nuts.

197475


3b. Remove 2 8mm bolts holding coolant reservoir and move reservoir towards front of car.

197476
 

·
Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
Joined
·
31,685 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
4. Use a trim push pin removal tool to pop-up the 6 push pins and then remove.

197477


197478


You can see the offending hose in this shot:

197479


5. Once the push pins are all removed, jam some spacers under the plastic cowl to gain access to the 3 hidden 13mm bolts. I used a rag on the far left and wooden blocks in other spots. It’s also worth mentioning that the cowl itself cannot be easily removed. The wiper arms, which are pressed-on prevent this. This is the biggest pain in the butt with this project, but even my big hands were able to get under the cowl with strategically placed spacers.

197480


6. Use a 13mm ratcheting box wrench to remove the 3 bolts from under the cowl. Also remove the other 2 non-hidden bolts for a total of 5.

197481


7. Disconnect the battery with a 10mm socket. This gets the positive cable out of the way for strut brace removal.

197483


8. Lift up on passenger side strut brace. Don’t lose metal spacer.

197482


9. Lift up driver’s side of strut brace. It’s worth mentioning I was able to remove the brace without loosening the grey 8mm bolt on the driver’s side of the brace, but I had to loosen it for reassembly later in step 11. Set brace aside.

197484
 

·
Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
Joined
·
31,685 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
With the brace off, you get a clear view and good access to the misrouted hose:

197486


Give the hose a little tug upwards and you’ll have some slack to work with.

197487


10. Pinch the hose and work it down past the screw connector that caused the hose to hang-up. The problem screw is highlighted with a red arrow:

197488


Now the hose lays properly in its channel and no longer runs the risk of rubbing and getting punctured.

197489


11. Put strut brace back into position. I had to loosen this 10mm bolt to get the brace to drop back onto the studs. Make sure you get the metal spacers back into proper positions at both ends of the strut brace as well as the long one on the aft part of the brace. It goes between the brace and the metal cowl support.

197491


12. Reinstall 5 13mm bolts on brace to include the 3 hidden bolts under the cowl. Thread them down with your fingertips and then tighten with ratcheting box wrench.

197512


197493


13. Tighten 4 15mm brace nuts as well as the 10mm grey bolt at the top of the 1st pic below.

197494


197495
 

·
Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
Joined
·
31,685 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
14. Reinstall 6 plastic trim push pins including one that goes under the battery cover.

197505


15. Reconnect positive battery cable and secure with nut. Push positive battery cable wire loom retainer onto forward passenger side strut stud. Reinstall battery cover and secure with 3 plastic screw connectors.

197506


16. Reinstall hood strut by pushing it onto the ball and then pushing metal locking clip back into place.

197507


17. Reinstall coolant overflow bottle with 2 8mm bolts.

197508


DONE!

Pics of the hose properly routed:

197509


197510


It’s ready to ROCK! ?

197511
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,929 Posts
I wonder if FORD is aware of this problem??? Good write up (as usual) and excellent catch to prevent future problems. Leave it to the Gooseman to be a thorough repair technician (with camera !!!) :)
 

·
#1 Mike!
2019 Shelby GT350
Joined
·
9,332 Posts
Great "how to" post, Tim! It prompted me to go out to the garage and pop the hood on the new GT350 to see if there was a similar production defect waiting under the hood. Fortunately, there was no hidden stick of dynamite! The hose is routed properly and no issues were in sight. It's a little different in it's route and my guess is that the close proximity of the super charger put the hose in a more precarious location. I'll look for that issue when my wife hits the lottery, I am swimming in disposable income, and I have a new GT500!
 

·
Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 Rapid Red/black 2011 Kona Blue/white
Joined
·
31,685 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top