Hi All, I am on the market for a GT500. The price point between a '11 and '13 is quiet significant. I am okay with spending more, but I want to make sure it is the right move.
I know the '13 has a slight different ass end and has the larger motor. I have read that the '13 is much more fun/enjoyable/easier etc car to drive vs the pre-'13 series.
I know there will be a lot of opinion here and that is what I am hoping for! I am curious to hear 11/12 owners thoughts, '13 owners thoughts (hell, if you own(ed) both lets have it!) or really anyone's thoughts/experiences would be greatly beneficial.
Just some backing...What am I looking for in my next stang? Well, I will not be racing... I want a car that is fun to drive and if I am on the open road and want to drop the hammer... I am going to get exactly what you would expect to get in a sports car.
Thanks in advance for your input and insight, it is greatly appreciated!
We have debated this topic a few times through the years and it basically boils down to members will defend their car vs. the other years. I'll say this though: the GT500 evolved from 07-14 and got better along the way. It also got more expensive. You have to decide for yourself if the added cost is worth the difference. All years of the GT500 are fantastic!
I say the 13/14 is improved on all accounts with only two slight issues:
1. Slightly heavier than 11/12.
2. Longer gearing that some owners don't like. My buddy swapped his 3:31s to 3:73s and found it much more enjoyable around town.
I have an 11 with an added Whipple. I love the car and couldn't justify trading it in on a 13/14.
The 13-14 GT500 with the Track Pack is the ULTIMATE FACTORY (to date) GT500. Period.
There is no comparison. An argument can be made, that the 5.8 included with the 13-14, with it's exotic materials and TVS is one of the greatest Factory V8s of all time. Add in all the other unique upgrades Ford included on the 13-14 and you have an EPIC STANG.
I look at it this way. If you plan on keeping your car stock I would go for the 13/14. To me the improvements made for those years justify it's higher cost.
If you will be modifying it go for an earlier year and use the lower initial cost for the upgrades of your choosing.
But it's hard to go wrong either way.
I look at it this way. If you plan on keeping your car stock I would go for the 13/14. To me the improvements made for those years justify it's higher cost.
If you will be modifying it go for an earlier year and use the lower initial cost for the upgrades of your choosing.
But it's hard to go wrong either way.
I have a 2011. I would love to have gotten a 2013 or 2014 instead, but I couldn't swing the additional ~$10k between them.
As others have said, the 2013 is all around a better vehicle, but for around town / having fun on road both are excellent. I agree with what others have said - if you plan on keeping it all or mostly stock (and can afford the higher upfront price) - go with the 13/14. If you want to modify the car and make it your own, keeping that ~$10k in your pocket will go a long way towards helping that goal.
I'd far rather have a nice '12 Perf Pack for the money, BUT.....
There's a 2013 in WI for sale that I'd actually sell Christine for.
White
Black stripes
Glass roof
Shaker 1000
Nav
Track Pack
Performance Pack
Recaros. I &^$ing HATE Recaros so that would be one expense I'd have if it bought it. Replace those POS.
No mods.
10k on the clock.
$45,000.
Deals are out there.
Anybody want to buy a 2007 with a mega documented history, new 940rwhp motor, etc etc??
I'd like a 13/14, but def not $10k+ more than what I have. Mines an around towner on nice weekends, and my 12 scratches that itch all day long. As others have said, I can get to 662+hp fairly easily.
I have always subscribed to the second from top of the line model being the best value (computers, cars, electronics, sports equipment etc.).
@VNMOUS1 : if you find yourself with Recaros you want to get rid of, I'll meet you halfway to swap standards!
Good luck in your search. Take your time and do it right. Compare both. But if you have the coin, by all means go straight to the top! My wife woulda killed me if I threw down an extra $10k!
Chris
Just remember that as you continue to add horsepower, and CONCURRENTLY add traction, that the abuse to your driveline increases exponentially...
With my car going from 490-ish rwhp (stock) to somewhere around 680-ish today, I kinda don't mind that my Michelin Pilots don't try to hold-down 2nd gear completely, or give a violent bite 1st-2nd or 2nd-3rd, cause I really don't feel like having my stock driveshaft/u-joints pole-vaulting the car, or breaking anything from the bellhousing back to the axle housing.
Of course, I'm amazed at how stout these cars are built. But since mine was a daily-driver when it was in-service, I was o.k. with "progressive" traction that was kinder to the driveline and protected my mods from my didn't-mods...
I was in the same boat as you not long ago. I really liked the price point on the 11/12 but deep down I knew I really wanted a 13/14. I knew I liked everything about the 13/14 and if I had gotten an 11/12 I would always regret it a little. I'm the type that will keep everything stock so I figured I don't make purchases like this often and probably won't again so I better get what I want.
My advice is go with your gut, you know deep down what you really want!
I am by far not an aficionado when it come to Shelby GT500's. I had a 2012 GT500 for a brief time and like the car a lot. I've owned several Mustangs in 52 years of driving but my 2012 was the most impressive performance wise. I'm currently looking for the right deal for me and I would prefer a 2013/2014 mainly for the slightly larger cubic inch engine. I don't care much for the looks of the grills on the later models.
I drive my car year round except when there is snow or salt all over the roads. If its dry, sunny, and clear, I'm out there in the cold! I have all season Michelin Pilot Sport AS/3's in stock sizes and they are commendable performers in wet and dry conditions. Summer tires are simply dangerous at temps below 60 degrees.
Mike, I agree with your last sentence if the driver doesn't change his driving style. If a person still hammers the throttle or otherwise drives aggressively, then trouble is lurking. However, I often drove my car on Goodyears and then my current Conti DW tires below 60 degrees. In fact, while in Kodiak the temps were regularly below 60, and I just used right foot control to still enjoy driving the car. This is also why I installed adjustable LCA's. I wanted to make sure when the tires spun, the car stayed pointed straight. The Continental DW's did better in the cooler temps for sure, and I'll bet the Conti DWS would have done even better. I just didn't want the additional noise of the DWS tires.
Sorry for the detour from your original question OP, but tires are important regardless of which year you pick.