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2011 Shelby GT500
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having issue with second gear being sticky/lockout. Rest of the gears are easy and works fine what is the solution to this fix?

Right hand side conversation was done in 2011. Previous owner said it's always been an issue.
 

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Lot's of people have a similar issues. It's sort of a combination of things that you can throw a lot of money at to fix. The main issue is the synchronizer itself. Tremec makes better synchroizers, but it involves tearing down the transmission to replace them. Ford opted for quiet operation over durability in specing the synchos. Second problem is the imprecise body mounted pendulum shifter. MGW's second generation shifter get's rid of the pendulum action. Third is the spongy action of the hydraulic clutch system. The pedal assembly structure is made of plastic, so bang shifts will involve some amount of flex in the clutch structure when you're abusing the clutch pedal. The hydraulic line between the slave and clutch master cylinder is plastic. Bang shifts also involve some amount of the line swelling from hydraulic forces. The solution his is to install a braided or metal/braided line that withstands higher pressures without the swelling. Some also contend that the short throw shifters are also responsible for action. Installing a longer shaft (longer throw) tends to slow down the shift. The 11-12 models having the shortest throw factory shifters. The last thing is damaged synchros because folks don't address the issues and continue to bang away at the transmission, hoping it will somehow magically disappear. It never does. A combination of some of these fixes make it better, but I think changing the synchronizers is the only real solution. A lot of racers just throw in the towel and install a Magnum XL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you very much for your detailed reply. What would you recommend. I'm looking at buying the mgw gen 2 as we speak. What other suggestions. Since I'll be owning this car for the rest of my life.
 

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You'll love the shifter. It's sort of a drastic difference in feel, so there may some muscle memory lessons involved in the beginning. The clutch line is a cheap and easy mod. I've refilled the transmission with Mobil 1 ATF, which seems to help some as well. If it still grinds after that, all I can recommend is slowing down the shift until you can address the synchros.
 

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Great thread thank you. I have an 11. No issues shifting per say, but I did miss or grind 2nd in the last week. I won't be doing that many "bang" shifts but at least I know now there is a potential issue.

The clutch is a little odd in that I think I just missed 2nd a bit by not depressing enough. It seems full release is at the very bottom and full engage is at the very top. I can't shorten the pedal action by only depressing say 1/2 way. Or at least that is what I did when I did not make it into 2nd properly I think.

This is probably the way it was designed and I'm still learning the car.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've grinded second twice in owning the car for 2 weeks. But I feel like I putting a lot more effort getting into second then any other gear. Which is really ticking me off. I just purchased mgw shifter hopefully that fixes my problems.

Getting used to the new shifter won't take long. But ye looking into the stock shifter wow what a terrible design! Looking forward to this mod with the rest of them. I've booked in the mechanic for 3rd of October. I'll keep everyone updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Yes I'm pretty sure it's the stock TR6060 but I'm sure someone with more information can reply.

Not sure what the difference between the blue and gold one is though. But they assured me it's a gen 2

Yeah I ordered that product.
 

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Another thing I've done is replaced the clutch master cylinder with a 13-14 unit. It has a slightly larger bore diameter, so it displaces more fluid over the same amount of clutch travel. However, the last couple times I looked, Ford doesn't seem to sell it any longer. It's a PITA to replace and you need to check pedal travel because parts of the master cylinder can come in contact with parts of the pedal assembly. Ford addressed that by putting a thicker pedal stop in the 13-14 clutch pedal assembly. I used a metal washer under my stop. I had to practically push the pedal through the floor to get full clutch engagement with the stock components. I don't need to do that with the 13-14 master, even with the stop shimmed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you very much cat monkey for your replies. I keep you posted on the process. Just quickly what is the difference between the gold mgw and blue mgw?
 

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Yes I'm pretty sure it's the stock TR6060 but I'm sure someone with more information can reply.

Not sure what the difference between the blue and gold one is though. But they assured me it's a gen 2

Yeah I ordered that product.
Yes, the transmissions are Tremec TR6060s. There are differences in the gear ratios between model years, but externally all the same. I've never seen the blue MGW's. It could be a revision or just a color change. I installed mine a few years back and they were all gold at the time. MGW's first design used the pendulum and went out of production when the II came out. That's been years. I had the original and it was an improvment over stock, but the II is just worlds better.
 

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I have a 2011 and it has the same issue. You can throw money at the issue… sometimes it helps… others have reported no help. I have learned to slow the shifts down in my 2011 and it is no longer an issue. If you try to bang 2nd gear while the rear tires are free spinning (loss of traction), the synchros don’t align in time and the result is a grind/lock-out. If you press the clutch in and pause for a split second to allow the rear tires to grab the road once again, the synchros align and the shift will be successful (unless your tranny is damaged).

I can bang shifts in my other manual Mustangs. The remote shifter setup of my 2011 does not allow for this.
 

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Have you got the MGW shifter?
I do not. I have been on this forum for years reading all the attempts to solve this. The MGW2 is a popular shifter. It makes the shifts feel notchy and crisp. Some have reported it helped and others have reported the problem remained. It’s possible the MGW slows the shifts down, in addition to adding crispness.

I just adapted to the car and changed my habit patterns when driving my 2011.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm not bagging second gear just crusing feels like a lot more effort to put into second. Just hope I can make it some effort into fixing it I want to track my car. On a circuit 2nd gear crucial 🤣🤣
 

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I'm not bagging second gear just crusing feels like a lot more effort to put into second. Just hope I can make it some effort into fixing it I want to track my car. On a circuit 2nd gear crucial 🤣🤣
Try changing the fluid. If someone did that before you took ownership, they many have put something with a higher viscosity that could be causing that drag. I get that in really cold weather before things warm up.
 

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I'm not bagging second gear just crusing feels like a lot more effort to put into second. Just hope I can make it some effort into fixing it I want to track my car. On a circuit 2nd gear crucial 🤣🤣
If you are planning on taking your 2011 to a road course, heat soak and brake fade will be bigger challenges than nailing 2nd gear.
 

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Yeah people are struggling with the heat soak issues. Any recommendation?. Breaks are easy.
The S197 is just not an ideal road course car. It’s better suited for the strip or street fun. For the brakes, get track pads and high temp fluid. That will help tremendously. Front cooling ducts will help even more.

For the heat soak issue… your best bet is at stock power level with no added smaller pulley or larger supercharger swap for added boost. A larger aftermarket heat exchanger will help, but not solve the heat soak issue. Same with an aftermarket intercooler. It’s just a limitation of the design. This is why prior to the 2020 GT500, the best advice for a proper road course car was always naturally aspirated… hence the GT350. Boost adds heat. This heat only dissipates with serious cooling. The 2020+ came stock with excellent cooling. The S197 did not.
 
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