Ford Shelby GT500 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am the recent new owner of a 2008 GT500. When I bought the car it came with a Kenne Belle Mammoth 3.6L. When I had the car delivered to me, the person unloading the car off of the truck had trouble getting the car off the truck because it wouldnt idle, but after giving it some gas and allowing the car to heat up the car idled fine. There was some steam coming from under the hood from water in the coolant tank was coming out and evaporating on the block. I drove it back to where I lived which was less than a mile and it was driving a bit rough in 1st gear and felt like a lack of power in 2nd gear. The next day I had trouble getting it started but after I did and got it warmed up I filled it up with gas (91). When I came back from getting gas I noticed my engine was running very hot. The next day I went to go start it wouldnt start. I have a few engine codes (P0068, P061B, P2196, P2198) So, Ive consulted some people and heres what Ive been able to gather so far: it could be a possible tune issue as I can tell that the previous owner had a diablo tuner with the car and did not sell the car with the diablo tuner, so I'm assuming that the previous owner sold the diablo and put a factory tune back on the car or the timing is bad which would cause it to run rough obviously because of the aftermarket supercharger, also I am at a much more elevated area from where the car came so the air is significantly thinner. Some other people said based off the engine codes it could be my MAF/Throttle body and CAI not getting enough air in due to the band clamps not being tightened or the MAF being dirty and not being able to read correctly. I've also heard that it could be a bad fuel pump, some bad injectors or something of the sort (also the car came with a boostapump installed). I have checked my oil and the oil looks fine so I do not believe it to be anything too serious like a cracked block. I was wondering where I should start? I have consulted VMP and am in the works of getting a tune, and I've ordered new spark plugs and oil to do some general tune up tasks. I checked all the connections in my engine bay to make sure everything was connected and that the clamps on my CAI were tight. Could this all be a bad tune issue?
 

·
Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 CFTP Rapid Red! 2011 Kona Blue/white
Joined
·
35,264 Posts
Welcome to the forum! Sorry about your issues. Do you know the seller or the history of this car? Hopefully you didn’t buy a basket case and ended up getting someone else’s problem child.

If you are up for introducing yourself and showing us this Shelby, you’ll find our new member area here:

 

·
Registered
2009 gt500 vmp gen3, 2020 gt500 magnetic, 1970 mach1 408 stroked, 1997 cobra awesome
Joined
·
126 Posts
There’s a lot of things it could be but sounds to me as if you’re on the right track and that it has lost its tune. I’m sure the seller returned to stock unmarried old tuner and sold it also vmp should get it right for sure. If you’ve got a act device download live wire do some data logs and you can find out if your pumps are working and all kinds of other good stuff. The best thing is you can email those to vmp or any other tuner and they can more easily diagnose your issue
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Awesome I've gone ahead and ordered a tune from VMP. Hopefully that will fix everything so that its a relatively simple fix.
 

·
Premium Member
2010 Shelby GT500 Kona Blue/Silver stripes
Joined
·
4,717 Posts
Have you narrowed down what sounds like a coolant leak of some kind?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I haven’t found any coolant leaking anywhere other than when the vehicle gets too hot it steams out of the coolant reservoir. Other than that there is no leaks or anything anywhere else. And no milky oil
 

·
Registered
2009 gt500 vmp gen3, 2020 gt500 magnetic, 1970 mach1 408 stroked, 1997 cobra awesome
Joined
·
126 Posts
Check that thermostat, hopefully it isn’t combustion gases in the coolant due to a blown head gasket. The last post reminded of what else you spoke of. Take the cap of and watch it while idling when you get it to idle see if you have a lot of air bubbles coming into the tank that means something’s letting gases into your coolant
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Check that thermostat, hopefully it isn’t combustion gases in the coolant due to a blown head gasket. The last post reminded of what else you spoke of. Take the cap of and watch it while idling when you get it to idle see if you have a lot of air bubbles coming into the tank that means something’s letting gases into your coolant
Will do, once I get it running again 😅
 

·
Premium Member
2012 SVTPP with a heavy dose of 2013 components
Joined
·
7,716 Posts
Run a compression test and rule out mechanical issues first. You may have bought a turd. Did you have anyone check out the engine before you bought it?
 

·
Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 CFTP Rapid Red! 2011 Kona Blue/white
Joined
·
35,264 Posts
Which coolant tank is overheating? The engine coolant or the intercooler side? If it’s the intercooler side, your pump may be dead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Which coolant tank is overheating? The engine coolant or the intercooler side? If it’s the intercooler side, your pump may be dead.
It is the engine coolant tank. I read in a few places and have heard from some people that if my tune is bad enough (which it is pretty bad right now) that it could cause my engine to be very hot.

Run a compression test and rule out mechanical issues first. You may have bought a turd. Did you have anyone check out the engine before you bought it?
I did not have anyone check it before I bought it. I had the dealership send over some videos of it before buying as it was a long distance purchase. I realize this was a risk, and I dont have a way to check compression at this moment. I have a LOT of stuff getting shipped to me to adjust my tune and some other tools/parts for quality of life of the engine. If all those fail then I will look into a compression test. Also, I went ahead and bought a multimeter to check my fuses to make sure this isn't all just a fuse for my fuel pump issue or PCM fuse. Also Idk if this helps or if I should have to look into it, but I have a boost-a-pump installed, if the boost-a-pump could fail/have a bad connection could that be making all this happen?
 

·
Premium Member
2012 SVTPP with a heavy dose of 2013 components
Joined
·
7,716 Posts
There was some steam coming from under the hood from water in the coolant tank was coming out and evaporating on the block.
I was focusing on this comment. Sounds like the potential for a blown head gasket to me, but then I'm not entirely sure what you're saying there either. If you see steam coming out of the engine block, that's a mechancal issue. While you may well have tune issues, a tune is not going to resolve this issue. A tune causing the engine to overheat is a little remote, unless you're beating on it like a red-headed step child. Other possibilities for overheating is the electric fan no longer working.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I was focusing on this comment. Sounds like the potential for a blown head gasket to me, but then I'm not entirely sure what you're saying there either. If you see steam coming out of the engine block, that's a mechancal issue. While you may well have tune issues, a tune is not going to resolve this issue. A tune causing the engine to overheat is a little remote, unless you're beating on it like a red-headed step child. Other possibilities for overheating is the electric fan no longer working.
There was water coming out of my coolant reservoir and hitting the block, which made it evaporate instantly. And I will be able to look more into that issue after I get it running, so tune first , then fix my cooking/overheating issue
 

·
Registered
2009 Shelby GT500 Vista Blue/White Stripes
Joined
·
626 Posts
There was water coming out of my coolant reservoir and hitting the block, which made it evaporate instantly. And I will be able to look more into that issue after I get it running, so tune first , then fix my cooking/overheating issue
Did you check for water circulating in the reservoir with the cap off? If it is not circulating you could have a stuck closed thermostat which would definitely show the symptoms that you are experiencing. That would be the first thing I would check. If this is the problem then you will cook, as you say, the engine and may not have to worry about a tune.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Hey guys, So I just spoke to a previous owner of the car which I was able to track down. He said the reason he got rid of the car, and the problem he had why he got rid of it was that the two cylinders closest to the firewall would get water in them. NOT from inside the block, it would be from outside, where he lived it rained every day. He said about every 2 weeks he would have to rapper the plugs and got tired of it. He also said that he contacted ford and they said it’s a known issue and that there is no fix. I was wondering if you guys know of any fix or what that might be about? I’m going to check tomorrow for the water in the cylinder.
 

·
Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 CFTP Rapid Red! 2011 Kona Blue/white
Joined
·
35,264 Posts
Hey guys, So I just spoke to a previous owner of the car which I was able to track down. He said the reason he got rid of the car, and the problem he had why he got rid of it was that the two cylinders closest to the firewall would get water in them. NOT from inside the block, it would be from outside, where he lived it rained every day. He said about every 2 weeks he would have to rapper the plugs and got tired of it. He also said that he contacted ford and they said it’s a known issue and that there is no fix. I was wondering if you guys know of any fix or what that might be about? I’m going to check tomorrow for the water in the cylinder.
Never heard of this. You are the first to mention it on this forum.

The cylinders are sealed from outside elements. The only way water (or coolant) can get in them is is from inside (like a blown head gasket) or outside (flood or driving into a lake).
 
  • Like
Reactions: 03reptile

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Never heard of this. You are the first to mention it on this forum.

The cylinders are sealed from outside elements. The only way water (or coolant) can get in them is is from inside (like a blown head gasket) or outside (flood or driving into a lake).
So, I took the spark plug cover off and there was condensation/some water on the coil packs. It appears that it came from the back of the spark plug cover where the wire for the coil pack goes in. That should be an easy enough fix with some silicone or something. Plus, I am in a very dry place that does not rain, and the water is getting the the cylinders per day, but to the coil pack/spark plugs. The previous owner said that it was always the spark plugs on the driver and passenger side closest to the firewall, which is where that wire goes into the spark plug cover, so that makes sense. I will do more troubleshooting later, but that makes sense why I was getting a bunch of rich A/F codes because my cylinders weren’t firing. I also figured out why my coolant was steaming out of the reservoir, it was a bad cap. The spring that in the cap rusted and broke because it looks like the previous dealership put tap water into the tank instead of distilled water.
 

·
Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 CFTP Rapid Red! 2011 Kona Blue/white
Joined
·
35,264 Posts
Water under the coil cover will not get into the cylinder unless you remove the spark plug.

With water/coolant in the cylinder and coolant steaming out of your reservoir, look into a blown head gasket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I do not believe it is a blown head gasket, my oil looks good, nothing is leaking off of the block, no white smoke. But I will double check. I am going to do a compression test when the tool comes in. I did however, change all the spark plugs, and the car fired up right away! It sounded great and was idling awesome. I put some water and coolant in the reservoir to top it off since some steamed out from the bad lid on the coolant reservoir and I replaced the lid. I then went to go take it for a drive, and as soon as I put it in Reverse, the car bogged down then died. I tried to start it again, and it started but died 3-5 seconds later. Any suggestions?
 

·
Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 CFTP Rapid Red! 2011 Kona Blue/white
Joined
·
35,264 Posts
I do not believe it is a blown head gasket, my oil looks good, nothing is leaking off of the block, no white smoke. But I will double check. I am going to do a compression test when the tool comes in. I did however, change all the spark plugs, and the car fired up right away! It sounded great and was idling awesome. I put some water and coolant in the reservoir to top it off since some steamed out from the bad lid on the coolant reservoir and I replaced the lid. I then went to go take it for a drive, and as soon as I put it in Reverse, the car bogged down then died. I tried to start it again, and it started but died 3-5 seconds later. Any suggestions?
Do you have the ability to return the car to stock?
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Top