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2012 SVTPP with a heavy dose of 2013 components
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Discussion Starter #1
I've got Borla mufflers that use the factory ball and socket clamp cut from the OEM mufflers. I've got one side that the clamp is fully tightened, but doesn't restrict movement of the muffler to the pipe. I'm also using Lethal's 2 3/4" over axle pipes. I don't see that anyone makes a clamp like that except in 2 1/2" and 3". Surely, I'm not the only one with this issue. If anyone has been able to resolve it, what did you do?
 

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Moderator/Admin Dude!
2020 CFTP Rapid Red! 2011 Kona Blue/white
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Have you tried calling a local muffler shop John? When I got my 93 Cobra, it came with aftermarket exhaust, but the seller gave me the stock stuff. I hit a small local muffler shop and they did the swap for me, which involved some welding.
 

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2012 SVTPP with a heavy dose of 2013 components
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Discussion Starter #3
This would not be a good location for a weld. You'd never be able to remove it, if it were welded. The clamp was welded to the OEM muffler and Borla's instructions said to cut them off and reuse them. You can see them in this shot.



I may just order the 2.5" clamp and see if that would work or not. If it doesn't go all the way around.... oh well. If I removed the pipe and used a pipe spreader that might work, but I'm trying to correct this with out a lot of effort.
 

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This would not be a good location for a weld. You'd never be able to remove it, if it were welded. The clamp was welded to the OEM muffler and Borla's instructions said to cut them off and reuse them. You can see them in this shot.



I may just order the 2.5" clamp and see if that would work or not. If it doesn't go all the way around.... oh well. If I removed the pipe and used a pipe spreader that might work, but I'm trying to correct this with out a lot of effort.
You misunderstood me... I wasn’t saying to have them weld it. That was my case. I was saying to go there and see if they have specialty clamps or another option that might work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm pretty sure that would be a waste of my time and energy. If I can't find a clamp on line, I'm not likely to find one at the mickey mouse exhaust shops around here. I've searched the forums and most say to fold up a section of aluminum foil to work around the joint and then put the ball and socket band clamp around it. I'd rather find a more permanent solution.

Apparently Accu-seal makes a ball and socket type band clamp in 2.5" and 3" diameters and I just ordered two in the 2.5" diameter. These are stainless. I can't imagine a 1/4" will make that much difference.

This is better pic of the joint I'm dealing with and the only way I can find the clamp on Summit's site is in a kit, but Jeg's has just the clamp.

 

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Report back on this. I actually have one side that is the same. The clamp won't get quite tight and it allows the rear muffler to pivot every so slightly and it starts touching the rear valence. I was going to see if I could "re-flare" the pipe or possible come up with a slightly smaller clamp like you are checking on.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Report back on this. I actually have one side that is the same. The clamp won't get quite tight and it allows the rear muffler to pivot every so slightly and it starts touching the rear valence. I was going to see if I could "re-flare" the pipe or possible come up with a slightly smaller clamp like you are checking on.
Is the side that isn't tight the driver's side? If so, there seems to be some consistency with it. I received the clamps and they're much more solid than the factory stuff, but I haven't jacked up to rear to install yet. In fact the clamps are so substantial, I don't think you can remove the bolt and slide them over the pipe. The joint will have to be opened. I just don't know if I have enough clearance to do that without removing components.
 

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2008 Vapor/Black Coupe
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You can open them John, it's just a PITA
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm going to update this thread because I only recently tried out the clamps doing some other work on the rear of the car. During summer hibernation, I came across 2 3/4" ball and socket clamps made by Kook's, so I picked up a couple of these to try too. While the possibility of having the same issue as the stock clamps existed, I figured what the hell, maybe they'll work better than the flimsy stock clap. It wouldn't take a much smaller diameter on the stock clamps to work properly to secure the muffler, and I was hoping Kook's clamp filled the bill. Unfortunately, they did not. I was able to get the clamps on and off just removing the clamp at this joint and man handling the pipes to slip them on.

While this issue doesn't seem like a big deal in the grand scheme of things, it allowed one muffler tip to get too close to the plastic opening, and caused some melting issues that resulted in a new lower bumper cover some time back. I cut four small sections of 5/16" fuel line and put them between the rubber hanger on the hanger rack welded to the muffler. Borla uses a smaller diameter rod than the stock hanger, so I added these "stops" to keep the muffler hanger from sliding on the rod and burning the plastic again because of this loose joint. The "stops" are held in place with tiny hose clamps. That helped with side to side movement, but did nothing for up and down angles and the top gap of the tip and the bumper cover. My tips never were that well centered because of this. You can see this in any of the rear shots of my car posted throughout the website. Getting a ball and socket clamp that doesn't allow movement at the joint would seem to be a better solution and revolve this problem.

While this might seem to be an issue with Borla, when I reinstalled the stock mufflers after my LT header and deleted cat phase, the OEM socket clamps didn't do that great a job holding the joint either. I suspect this ball and socket arrangement probably is not designed to be taken apart and put back together multiple times. What it takes to reflare the pipes in this configuration is out of my wheelhouse, but that's likely the real issue at play or a significant contributing factor.

The 2 1/2" clamp ends do not butt up to one another, but it solidly holds the muffler in place when it's sufficiently tightened. Once you've eliminated movement at the joint, stop tightening. The way the ball and socket is arranged, I don't think it's going to leak. Since the joints weren't leaking with the larger stock clamps when I could move the muffler by hand, I can't see how they will leak now.

I'll get a pic or two before I get the car down off the ramps.
 

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I know it's not the right form factor, but I wonder if you could get just enough movement using a traditional pipe expander?

 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have one of those and I have my doubts on whether it would work. They work great to expand a piece of pipe, but just the outer lip of the socket I don't think you'd be able to keep the tool from slipping off. Something like this on the side that flares out might work, but it's on the muffler side.

207059


Either case, you'd have to remove the exhaust to do it. Stainless pipes aren't that easy to work with either and I'd be afraid to damage the muffler. The clamp works well enough for me to consider this one done. The bolt did have to come out of the clamp to slip it over the socket side of the pipe.
 
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