[ThereIsNoTry]

New to me is a 2011 GT500. Right after first drive clutch slipped and discovered a FX ebay clutch. Replaced clutch and now car has problems pulling past 5000 rpm. Will try plugs in morning. I'm guessing from looking I have a 2.75in pulley and Metco tensioner pulley. There is a pod gauge that is not powering on and I think it is a Aeroforce one with SVT gauge face. See anything I'm missing?

 

[billg302]

From what I can see in your pics, that's the Metco 90mm idler pulley and Metco pulley, not sure what size tho. You could measure the diameter to verify. I see there's a JLT sound tube delete kit on the intake also. Maybe it's just me but the engine coolant and intercooler coolant appear to be different colors?

 

[Goose17]

These cars never had a sound tube. Those are only on the non Shelby Mustangs. That intake essentially removed the intake resonator.

As for your mods, if you don’t know the history of this car or what tune is on it, I highly recommend avoiding boost until you can confirm what is all going on with it. I would do one of two things... I would hit a local Mustang performance/tuning shop that is familiar with these cars. Have them either run it on the dyno to confirm the tune or just have them tune it. The other option would be to work with a company like VMP or Lund... they will have you datalog the car and work with you on a correct tune.

If you hammer on the car and it hasn’t been properly modded/tuned, you risk killing the engine, which is an expensive mistake.

 

[ThereIsNoTry]

I was hoping ya'll would help me identify things. So this intake looks stock I'm assuming. Funny to me that I missed the pulley on first inspection, but I'd only ever seen this 1 GT500 up close. I'll be calling Twenty Frist Century Muscle Cars and then Paramount Speed to see about a inspection/tune. I have a tuner for my track car (turbo Miata), but want someone focused more on V8's. Having been trained myself to tune, I've realized repetition plays a lot to quality of tune.

 

[billg302]

The intake is stock, with the exception of the tube between the TB and air filter. I had the name wrong, as Goose said that’s the resonator delete. It’s not really a performance mod as much as it’s a sound mod.

 

[Goose17]

I was hoping ya'll would help me identify things. So this intake looks stock I'm assuming. Funny to me that I missed the pulley on first inspection, but I'd only ever seen this 1 GT500 up close. I'll be calling Twenty Frist Century Muscle Cars and then Paramount Speed to see about a inspection/tune. I have a tuner for my track car (turbo Miata), but want someone focused more on V8's. Having been trained myself to tune, I've realized repetition plays a lot to quality of tune.

It appears your car has the “standard mod:” pulley/intake/tune. I don’t see anything else in the pictures. You would benefit from an oil catch can on the passenger side.

 

[ThereIsNoTry]

Replaced fuel filter and plugs (gapped .032). Also cleaned/oiled the air filter. Seems about same power, so Monday I'll be working with Precision Mustang Performance in Forney.

 

[Goose17]

Replaced fuel filter and plugs (gapped .032). Also cleaned/oiled the air filter. Seems about same power, so Monday I'll be working with Precision Mustang Performance in Forney.

Oiled air filters can lead to problems with these cars. It’s hard to regulate how much oil goes on the filter, which often leads to oil fouling the MAF sensor... this leads to problems. I only use dry filters for this reason.

 

[ThereIsNoTry]

Appreciate the heads up. I've come up with a good method to mine that hasn't failed me yet. I have a duct fan that can pull some serious CFM and car filters of most sizes will fit on it. I'm able to speed dry them during the process and pull vac after to get all the residual oil. Comes out nice. I'll be honest though I also prefer dry filters.

 

[Shelbyfan73]

@ThereIsNoTry did your car pull fine past 5,000 rpm before the new clutch install? I've read that in some cases a crank relearn can be required after clutch installation. This may be the cause of your issues above 5,000 rpm. If you have the tuner with your car you can do it with that. If you don't have the tuner maybe someone more knowledgeable than me can walk you through the steps to get it done. Below is the procedure for the crank relearn on the SCTX4 I found on the internet.

Crank Relearn

The Crank Relearn or Crank Position Relearn is not something that needs to be done too often and is more common for Manual Transmission Vehicles. On the 2011+ Mustangs you will need to use this function if you have replaced the clutch on a manual or for automatics if the trans has been removed for service. We have also seen occurrences on the 2015+ Mustangs where this is needed after loading a tune file. Lets go over the steps for doing this.

1. Go into the Vehicle Functions option.

2. Then select Special Functions and you will be prompted to turn the key on and continue.

3. From here select the option for Crank Relearn.

4. You will get a Notice about doing this procedure after certain engine repairs, select Continue.

5. Then follow the steps, Step 1 - Make sure no DTC's are present, if non continue. If there are DTC's you would need to clear them first (Clear DTC's).

6. Return rev limiters to stock. This is not always the case and you can Continue.

7. Start and Idle Engine. Keep the car in neutral and let the engine get to operating temp.

8. Follow onscreen prompts and raise rpm to range listed on screen. Device will show when crank relearn is complete.

 

[ThereIsNoTry]

@Shelbyfan73 That is crazy, hadn't read that yet. Unfortunately the car with slipping clutch also had trouble revving past 5k. Also I have a feeling this crank relearn is due to pulling flywheel and not putting back on in exact same orientation. Is the crank position really determined off flywheel, because that's new to me. I don't have a tuner, so when car is at dyno I'll mention this incase they think it's worth trying. I believe the shop/tuner Precision Mustang Performance will have me buy SCT tuner.

 

[Shelbyfan73]

@Shelbyfan73 That is crazy, hadn't read that yet. Unfortunately the car with slipping clutch also had trouble revving past 5k. Also I have a feeling this crank relearn is due to pulling flywheel and not putting back on in exact same orientation. Is the crank position really determined off flywheel, because that's new to me. I don't have a tuner, so when car is at dyno I'll mention this incase they think it's worth trying. I believe the shop/tuner Precision Mustang Performance will have me buy SCT tuner.

I wish I could offer more advice to you. To be honest, I don't really know that much about this procedure or when it is truly required. I only know that I have ran across several people on other Mustang forums that have had to do it because their car didn't run correctly after a clutch install. I was hoping if it worked for you it could be a relatively simple fix.

Maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in on the subject.