2013 Shelby GT500 1st to 2nd shift still GRIND! - Page 3 - Ford Shelby Cobra GT500 Forum
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  #21  
Old 06-18-2012, 10:33 AM
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Default Re: 2013 Shelby GT500 1st to 2nd shift still GRIND!

Check out Panzerfaust's solution:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...04-post58.html

This is an old issue with (in my case) a simple answer, but my theory is that you have to take action to correct the BS factory shifter issues BEFORE you make repeated grinding/clashing 1-2 upshifts which will damage the trans and compound the problem into an issue that requires warranty action. The issue (I believe) is that the factory shifter stick (NOT the factory shifter) is the culprit here. It is so over-isolated with rubber bushings that it makes experienced manual trans users look like rookies.

With over 25 years of man. trans. use under my belt, I was humiliated by clashing gears on the 1-2 upshift on my 2011 GT500. It happened to me 2-3 times (and I read about it all over the web) and I immediately went into diagnosis mode. Sitting in my car in my driveway with the engine off, I ran through the clutch/shifter motions of an aggressive 1-2 upshift repeatedly, something I'd done thousands of times in reality, with no problems.

Then I slowed down the clutch/shifter movements I make, into slow motion. Lo and behold, I could feel that as I moved the shifter handle from 1st to 2nd, when I hit the shifter stop at second, there was a secondary, almost imperceptible movement of the handle a tiny bit to the rear and I could feel an additional mechanical sensation through the handle. That sensation was the final, full engagement of 2nd gear.

Though I had, in my mind, been timing the release of the clutch by my left foot to the arrival of the shifter handle's end-of-rearward-travel into second gear, that was not the case.

The culprit was the ridiculous factory rubber-mush isolation of the shifter stick. It was NOT the body of the factory shifter proper. What my 25 years of man. trans. usage had programmed my brain to do was to release the clutch when my right hand stopped noving rearward. Because of the over-insulation of the factory shifer stick, there was a fraction-of-a-second of a delay between the shifter hitting the second gear shift stop (thus compressing the rubber isolators) and the rubber isolators on the stick having time to rebound (de-compress) and then transmit the force from the shifter stick to the shifer body and finally get the second gear shift to complete.

Sounds hoakey I know, but a fraction-of-a-second mis-timing of clutch release to gear engagement will result in a gear clash. Below is the text of my post to Team Shelby.com (post #29 on the thread at: Shelby GT500 Shifter vs. MGW - Team Shelby - Page 2 )

I simply bolted up (with NO RUBBER ISOLATION) a Hurst stick to my factory shifter and I've never had the grind since. Because I caught it early enough, there was no harm to the trans. Your mileage may vary.....

Team Shelby post now follows, pics are on that thread:

Before anybody runs out and spends hundreds of dollars on an aftermarket shifter and the labor to install it, I'd advise trying what I did. When I got my 2011 SVTPP Shelby, the shifter felt rubbery and I was having the 1-2 upshift grind problem. I was planning on getting an MGW shifter, but decided to tear down the stock set-up first to see if I could improve it for less $$$. Lo and behold, the stock stick has more rubber on it than a high school senior on prom night.

I realized I had been having the 1-2 grind because I thought the car was in second gear and had been releasing the clutch too early, while in reality the over-rubber-isolated stock shifter stick was not transmitting my force on the stick to the actual shifter arm. The trans was not fully in second gear when the clutch was released, hence the grind.

I bought a Hurst chrome stick (#7201) off eBay for $40. It came w/ 2 bolts with bushings that adapted the smaller-diameter metric bolts to the larger 3/8" bolt holes on the shifter and it also came with the rubber boot adapter. Shifter stick has 3/8" coarse thread for your choice of knob. I bought a Roush shifter boot from JEGS for ~$30 and it fit the boot adaptor like a glove. I removed the stock stick and all the rubber isolators, installed the Hurst stick (bolting it directly to the stock shifter w/ no rubber isolation), the Roush boot and a Hurst T-handle I had lying around my garage. Total install time was about 60 mins and was done entirely from the driver's seat.

Result is an expenditure of ~$75 for a shifter that works with the rock-solid feel of a bolt-action rifle. It was an unbelieveable difference over the rubber mush crap that came from the factory. It has virtually no rattle or vibration and the 1-2 grind issue is gone. It cranks off 1-2 upshifts with ease. I did re-discover the fact that the aluminum t-handle gets a bit warm in a sunny parking lot. I also have about a half-dozen shift knobs I've acquired over the years, including a vintage 1960's-era Muncie pattern knob and a Mopar-esque pistol grip, so I switch them up from time to time for some variety.

So, before you throw the baby out with the bathwater, the problem w/ the factory shifter is the rubber isolation that they install. They totally over-do it, so that there is never a complaint from somebody who buys a Shelby and complains about shifter vibration because they expect a Rolls Royce level of cabin noise......just throw out the bath water (the rubber isolation) and keep the baby. You'll save a lot of $$$$. If you don't like it, you can always subsequently buy an aftermarket shifter and re-sell the Hurst stick on eBay.......
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  #22  
Old 06-18-2012, 10:48 AM
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Default Re: 2013 Shelby GT500 1st to 2nd shift still GRIND!

Guys, Panzerfaust claims that the shifting issue is due to the mushy rubber bushings. That answer is consistent with why pulling to the left whilst shifting helps avoid the shift grind.

My question is:
1. If it's just the rubber bushings, why not just remove them?
2. What will happen if I keep the stock hardware and just remove the rubber bushings? Will my shifting be more precise?


It's not clear to me why he installed a Hurst Stick and changed to a Roush shifter boot as well if the problem is just the rubber bushings.
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  #23  
Old 06-18-2012, 11:38 AM
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Default Re: 2013 Shelby GT500 1st to 2nd shift still GRIND!

I've grinded mine over a dozen times I'm most likely taking it in for warranty work to see if anything is hurt.

Also will this eliminate the shifter vibration you can hear/fell in 2nd and 4th gear mine vibrates very bad but if I hold as low as possible on the shifter under the boot I can make it stop.

Last edited by TXSVT; 06-18-2012 at 11:40 AM.
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  #24  
Old 06-18-2012, 11:45 AM
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Default Re: 2013 Shelby GT500 1st to 2nd shift still GRIND!

Grayghost, reading over what you said makes sense, if this is the problem I think Ford owes someone a 2013 GT500! ...ok two! Do you know if anyone else has made the modifications you mentioned? If someone could follow your advice and report their finding that would cement your finding. Oddly enough, those who have installed the MGW and noticed no more issues does support your theory as well.
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Last edited by chris410; 06-18-2012 at 11:53 AM.
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  #25  
Old 06-18-2012, 12:12 PM
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Default Re: 2013 Shelby GT500 1st to 2nd shift still GRIND!

He changed two things at once (isolator bushing and a taller heavier shifter handle) and proclaimed it to to be the isolator bushing. I did the exact same thing, only I proclaimed it to be the taller more rebust shifter handle. I think I'm right about the handle, maybe it's a combo of both. Once I changed to a hurst shifter handle with no isolator, my 1 - 2 shift problem was gone. Then I noticed excessive noise traveling up the shifter handle so I installed the isolator that came with my Shelby store shifter handle, onto the taller hurst shifter and the vibration was gone. 1-2 shift still perfect. Now the Shelby isolator is more robust and thicker. By the way, I still had the shift problem with the short Shelby shifter handle.

Last edited by kurtdog; 06-18-2012 at 07:07 PM.
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  #26  
Old 06-18-2012, 01:37 PM
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Default Re: 2013 Shelby GT500 1st to 2nd shift still GRIND!

While helping KCstang install a KB 2.8 Saturday on his 2012, he told me about his 1-2 shift problem at high RPM. He has agreed to install my modified shifter handle to see if it solves the problem. I will report the results. Any one know if they changed the handle bolt pattern on the newer Shelby's
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  #27  
Old 06-18-2012, 02:00 PM
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Default Re: 2013 Shelby GT500 1st to 2nd shift still GRIND!

Kurt - can you tell us specifically the part numbers of the parts you installed? What exact model number shifter handle did you change to, and can you use the stock shifter ball? It seems you are saying that you also bought a Shelby Store shifter handle, and used the isolator from that but I don't want to buy another handle if I'm just using the isolator.

thanks.
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  #28  
Old 06-18-2012, 04:17 PM
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Default Re: 2013 Shelby GT500 1st to 2nd shift still GRIND!

^^^I'm with grayghost, that or I can make it to Manhattan, KS in about 9 hours for you to do more installs not sure where in KS you are though.
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  #29  
Old 06-18-2012, 04:59 PM
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Default Re: 2013 Shelby GT500 1st to 2nd shift still GRIND!

I do know that I added the "frpp" chrome shifter handle & white ball to my '09(getting rid of the ridiculously over-isolated stock shifter handle), and it shifts perfectly thru every gear, and looks great doing it*_*
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  #30  
Old 06-18-2012, 05:08 PM
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Default Re: 2013 Shelby GT500 1st to 2nd shift still GRIND!

I've seen a post about this somewhere on here before, but does the Camaro and Challenger suffer from the 1-2 thing, as they have the same Tremecs as us, don't they?

If it's only a Shelby thing, then it's got to be the Shifter, and/or clutch. They're the only two things it could be, right???
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