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Header Torque

6K views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  Menace 
#1 ·
Just reviewed the Kooks install directions. There is no mention of a torque value for the bolts. With aluminum heads and bolts in place of studs, I'm a bit leery of just "tight" and would prefer to use a torque wrench. What is the recommended torque value?

If it matters, I'm using stock exhaust manifold gaskets, not the Kooks gaskets. I'm also using Stage 8 bolts, so they will not back off once installed.

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
I bet in the range of 18lbs with anti-seize.

The secret is to retorque them after a few heat cycles.
.
 
#4 ·
Since the OEM fasteners are not bolts, but studs and nuts, the spec for the stud is 106 in. lb. and the nut is 177 in. lb. Read that carefully, inch pounds. Converting to ft. lbs. is 8.8 and 14.75, respectively. I doubt a little tighter would hurt anything.
 
#5 ·
What made you decide to go with bolts over studs? Unless the heads have steel thread inserts, you are better off using studs in aluminum.
 
#6 ·
The headers come with bolts. I suspect this might be because studs and nuts are difficult to install between header tubes.

Is the "re-torque" because the gaskets relax a bit, or because the bolts have a tendency to loosen a bit with the heat cycles? If the latter, that shouldn't be a problem with the Stage 8 bolts. If the former, it might make sense for me to leave the locking washers and clips off until after the re-torque.

No worries on the in-lbs Catmonkey...very familiar with that and have a snap-on in/lb torque wrench.
 
#7 ·
What gaskets are you using? If it's a multi-layer shim gasket, they don't shrink like some other aftermarket materials, so loosening isn't as big a concern. It's never bad thing to retighten the bolts after a heat cycle. It's a bit of a challenge once the engine is back in the car, however.

That advise wasn't meant to mock your skill level. Every once in a while someone is asking how to remove a headless bolt because they used newton meters specs with a foot pound wrench or foot pounds instead of inch pounds. If I can save someone a headless bolt extraction, I will.
 
#8 ·
OE Ford gaskets, didn't care for the look of the Kooks gaskets.
 
#11 ·
10-4, thanks! Did you use the 177in/lbs (14ft/lbs) value when you did yours?
 
#12 ·
No, I used the goodntite method. I would have lost my mind trying to torque those bolts with a torque wrench with the engine in the car. I've been wrenching for a long time, so have a good feel for what values are needed without breaking off heads or stripping threads, at least under 50 ft. lbs. anyway.
 
#13 ·
10-4. I should be able to get a torque wrench on them with the engine out of the car.
 
#15 ·
You are probably right, not uncommon with headers.

BTW, are (or were) you a member of any "Ford Diesel Pickup Forums"? Your screen name is both uncommon (I think) and familiar.

If not a diesel forum, were you a member of any of these...say 10 years ago:
- Corner-Carvers.com
- Corral.net

Might just be coincidence...just curious.
 
#17 ·
OK, figured it was worth asking. Thanks again for the help.
 
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