How many people have switched out the 2 piece drive shaft, and for those that have what brand, whats your thoughts, and where do we go to get one :) The price would be important also :)

How many people have switched out the 2 piece drive shaft, and for those that have what brand, whats your thoughts, and where do we go to get one :) The price would be important also :)

Busababy mine was purchased from Evolution Performance and I believe the price was $800 and there was an addtional charge for the loop. I am not sure as to the brand but there is a difference of 25 pounds beteen the stock and one piece aluminum one. Can't give you my opinion as I am still in limbo whith the trans.:(

What happen to your trans ? I am sure you have posted it somewhere but I have not been on the boards as much being summer and have had allot of things going on.

07 Shelby did you also go with that drive shaft ? I have been on other boards and some people have had vibrations, etc and I don't want any part of that I just want it to work the first time :)

What happen to your trans ? I am sure you have posted it somewhere but I have not been on the boards as much being summer and have had allot of things going on.

07 Shelby did you also go with that drive shaft ? I have been on other boards and some people have had vibrations, etc and I don't want any part of that I just want it to work the first time :)

I had a problem with second gear (synchros shot). 07 has the same drive shaft as me and as far as I know he has not had any issues.

What happen to your trans ? I am sure you have posted it somewhere but I have not been on the boards as much being summer and have had allot of things going on.

07 Shelby did you also go with that drive shaft ? I have been on other boards and some people have had vibrations, etc and I don't want any part of that I just want it to work the first time :)


I do have the 1 piece aluminum.I believe it is a Dyna-Technologies balanced drive shaft.No issues,I feel very comfortable with it.I recommend the safety loop also.

Thank you 07, that and the pulley is the next mod for the beast. :)

Purchased one from Evolution Performance $800.00 and he threw in the loop as well. I saved a total of 30lbs.

Can anyone tell me why Ford did not use a 1 piece drive shaft from the beginning. In fact it looks like all the flavor of mustangs, steeda, saleen, they all a 2 piece drive shaft. So I was wondering is that for a specific reason because I can understand Ford doing it, but the other guys that have unlimited resouces they could have easliy put a one piece in but have read on other boards that they didn't. Just makes me wonder why ?

Can anyone tell me why Ford did not use a 1 piece drive shaft from the beginning. In fact it looks like all the flavor of mustangs, steeda, saleen, they all a 2 piece drive shaft. So I was wondering is that for a specific reason because I can understand Ford doing it, but the other guys that have unlimited resouces they could have easliy put a one piece in but have read on other boards that they didn't. Just makes me wonder why ?



It is all about money.The 2 piece they can control vibration and harshness also.If you modify your Shelby for more H.P. you will eventually blow your 2 piece.

Thank you 07 we can always count on you for the info, I was thinking that was the reason but didn't know for sure. So I guess I need to get that ordered as well :)

Hello All,

I got 2 new mustang magazines and there was a write up in both for a company that has been in business since 1975 doing drive shafts and drivetrain parts. I call yesterday and they have 2 shafts for our cars. 1 is for 500-550 hp at the rear wheels, and the other is for 700Hp at the rear wheels. I talked to the owner for about 45 minutes his name is Bill and told me that if a group of guys wanted to get these shafts he would work us up a price.

Reg price is $ 572 for the 500hp shaft at the wheels

Reg price is $ 642.00 for the 700 hp shaft at the wheels

They have not had any problems with these shafts they are perfect balance and because they have been in business so long he said no need to worry about customer service, if for any reason you did not like it or there was a problem return no questions ask, but he went on to say we will love it not like it and there will be no problems. About 25 pounds lighter than factory and you will notice a big differance in the way the car rev's will be much quicker. (I like that word) Mustang Specialties is one of there big dists of this shaft but for quan discount and wants us to go through him. I don't know the discount since I don't know how many would want it so if your interested please reply and I will get us a price. No matter what I will be getting one seems like the price is right and after doing a Google on there compnay they are all over the internet and seem like they are the king in the drivetrain world. If we go with him he will give us a key word to use when ordering to get the right discount.

Check out the link, research it yourself and let me know:

http://www.coastdriveline.com/NEW_Mustang.htm

That's the same place I called yesterday and Bill called and left me a message with the same prices. I saw thier add in the Mustang Enthusiast. It looks like a quality product.

I'm interested.:)

Cal

I called one of the places that he has sold to for years and the guy had nothing but positive things to say about the product. Bill told me that the 500hp drive shaft is installed in a stang that is over 600 at the wheels and they are beating the hell out of the car and no problems. He told them that they should have the other shaft but they told him they would not hold him accountable if it breaks and so far not a single problem. He is a source that allot of dealers buy from and he said some dealers he has heard is marking things up a couple hundred dollars which is out of his control but since we found the source well... we win :) If you can hold off until more people decide we might save some money on this purchase to spend on another purchase. Just a thought :)

I'm not in a hurry. There has to be a few more of us just about ready. Do you know if he sells the loop also?

Cal

busababy

wonder what the difference is between the two shafts. Seems like it would be better to go ahead and spend the 70.00 difference, especially if up grades are in your future.

ILLEGAL

Yes the better shaft would be better, what I am hope is we get the better shaft at the price of the 500hp shaft. As far as loop I did not ask but that is not a big deal, summit racing sells them all day long.

count me in I will buy one!!!!! let me now the details when ready.don't matter to me if it is today or next month......but I plan to get one so why not get one at a discount. I don't care if it is 3 months......when ever, just let me know!
thanks
JJ

I'd be up for it to probably. I been thinking about this one for a long time. I like things that don't add power, just make the power usage more efficient. How would you go about installing it if you didn't want to do it yourself? I don't suppose I could get the dealership to put it w/o raising a fit! LOL

Sounds good so far on the members that want one of these. For those of you that don't know why you would want this mod I will explain. First if your car is stock and is going to remain stock (HP) than no this does not have allot of value to you, your stock shaft will work fine forever plus it is under warranty.

Now for those that are doing the normal bolt-ons like intake, computer, exhaust, gears, pulley, well you are putting allot more power out than factory and you have all heard the saying your only as strong as your weakess link. So all that power is being made and your drive shaft along with other parts have to get the power to the rearend. The drive shaft is a major player of that. So what the new driveshaft does is 1 it is allot stronger than factory so doubt if you would ever break it, 2 it is lighter and that is rotational weight which if anyone has ever raced you know that rotation weight is big for acceleration, stoping etc. This won't have you stop quicker but you will rev quicker and less work on the motor. 3 1 piece design is more efficient than our 2 piece we are losing power to the rear due to more turning parts. 4th it is a simple install, you will need a lift..well I guess you could do it in the garage with jack stands but what I pain that would be. Take the car to the dealer or better yet take it to a garage that you trust and within about 20 minutes the old is out and the new is on. You will pay 1 hour labor which is $ 45.00 to $75.00. Of course make sure they torque to the correct settings and not just air gun it on. Also having a garage do it the dealer knows nothing about it and if you ever need to go to the dealer for a trans issue or rearend issue you put back the factory so they don't use the new shaft as a reason to not fix under warranty. To me this is another simple bolt on with allot of positive effects. I will not be opening the motor up to put cams in, or changing my blower, so bolt-ons is the only mods I will do and this is a great one. I was thinking about posting this up on another board to see about a response to get more people if you think it is a good idea I will. Also I will give it a couple weeks and than pull the trigger on this. I will be talk to Bill on monday to let him know the response so far and just to keep in touch with him.

Happy Sunday to all.

Thanks for all the great info, Busa. Count me in. Although I have just a CAI and tune, I'd rather be safe than sorry.

count me in too!

Thanks for all the great info, Busa. Count me in. Although I have just a CAI and tune, I'd rather be safe than sorry.


See I told you, it just never stops.:D :D

See I told you, it just never stops.:D :D

LOL! Tell me about it. It's just too fun to tinker with it. My wife is still afraid I will tinker with "her" car so much she'll be too scared to drive it. I guess that means we'll just have to drive it more so she gets more comfortable with the power. Oh rats! :p :D

Your right 07 is does not stop :) So here is my plan so everyone knows and can prepare. I will wait till the end of this month only a couple weeks away and than whoever we have we have and I will contact them find out the price and what the code word is to order to get that special price. I think I will also post this up on Stangsunleashed since I do spend some time there as well, they have some good stuff also. I don't think any site has a 07 Shelby member like we do so we know which site is the best :)

Anyhow keep watching this post and you will see me post up all the info or maybe I will have to PM everyone I don't know until I talk to the owner but when the time comes I will be all over it :)

Something to look forward to is from what I have been told by other members and the owner is this mod will be one of those that you don't think you see a difference you know you feel a difference, like mash it in 1st and its at redline faster than it is now :)

Hello All,

Just talked to Bill today at Driveline & Gear, first off super nice guy, anyhow what I ask him was if we get 10 or more purchases if he could sell us the 700hp drive shaft for the cost of the 500hp drive shaft, which would be $ 572.00 now if that happens that is a sweet deal in my book. They were installing a drive shaft in a new Shelby this morning. He said as soon as you drive the car out of the garage you will feel the difference. By the way the 500 hp drive shaft is in a mustang right now that is making over 700HP at the rear wheels (nitrous) and he claims they are beating @#$% out of the car and it has no broke so the 700hp we should never have a problem unless we are going to have 800 or 900 hp to our rear wheels :)

Anyhow just wanted to give everyone the 411 on what I talked to the owner about. July 31 is when I call him again and we get the code word for ordering :) Plus he said he is going to ramp up his inventory for us so we don't have to wait. I hate to wait on stuff I order :) I want it now.

Later All,

Bill

700hp drive shaft sounds like a winner! =D
thanks for the update!

More INFO:

Okay I called http://www.midcoastperformance.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=291_1406&action=product and talked to them about their drive shaft. So here is what I have found.

Midcoast:

There drive shaft is made of steel 3 inch and is 23 pounds
Dana Spicer 1350 series U-joints which are huge and will handle 1000+ HP
Because shaft is 3 inch if you lower car will not have any issues.

Coast Driveline:

There drive shaft is made of aluminum 4 inch and is 24.5 pounds
Dana Spicer 1330 series U-Joints which are good but not as strong as 1350
4 inch drive shaft could have issue with certain full exhaust systems or lowering car

Also after talking to them if we purchase at least 10 shafts than we will get some type of cost break, he could not give me until the final number is in, however
right now he is $ 85.00 dollars cheaper than Coast Driveline.

I like the idea of the shaft being 3 inch diameter and it has larger Dana Spicer not that my car will need that much strength but it is nice to know it is there.

Looking for feed back to see if my logic makes sense if so than July 31st I will call whoever the major vote goes with to make the deal for us. I think both companies are good ones but I think the new one is giving us more bang for the buck. Check it out yourself and give this thread some feedback.

Thanks to a old friend LSR who is new here for giving me the heads up on this company.

Looks like Midcoast would be the one to go with. Stronger, cheaper and no issues with exhaust or lowering.:)

sounds like "midcoast" is a better deal! It is only 499 too!

Hello All,

New update we can start to order these as soon as Monday and the group buy discount will be good till July 31, 2007. After that date back to normal price. Anyhow I have sent a PM to each of you with instructions. If you have not received it please send me a PM. I will be ordering mine on Monday :) Can't wait to get this mod done. I checked a local shop today and he said he would only charge $ 35.00 to install it with me watching. Now that is cheap. Make sure they torque the bolts correctly.

So if this works out okay for all of us and http://www.midcoastperformance.com/index.cfm than I would say we have a bright future with these guys. Watch their website they are going to have a specail section just for the GT500 and all the parts that they sell coming soon.

Look forward to the next purchase :)

Bill

Here is a picture of the drive shaft from another members car.

I ordered mine today!
Thanks
JJ

I ordered mine today at 10 am, also talked to the owner today and he told me that the drive shaft is high speed balance and tested at 8000 rpms. I doubt my beast will see 8K anytime soon :)

I ordered mine today at 10 am, also talked to the owner today and he told me that the drive shaft is high speed balance and tested at 8000 rpms. I doubt my beast will see 8K anytime soon :)

lol.....mine usually bounces at 7k.....oops!

has anyone recieved there Drive Shaft yet. Or does anyone know how long before they will be shipped out.... I just waited 3 weeks for my exhaust and don't want to wait another 3 for the drive shaft.
JJ

I just called and talked to Gene here is the info:

If you have ordered your Drive Shaft it will be shipped out on Monday, they are being high speed balance on 2 different machines to make sure that when we get them that we will have not problems like a vibration issue which is fine with me. I want perfect so I can move to the next mod and not worry about the mod before it.

Also he is now including new bolts that connect it to the rearend so we don't have to reuse our old ones which is nice because the factory ones are about 1/2 inch longer than what we need which isn't a problem to use but these will make a cleaner install.

If you have not ordered yours yet remember the dead line is Tuesday. This is a important mod if your going to be adding more HP to your Shelby or if you like to hammer it a little on some back roads :) Not that any of us would do that ?

I just called and talked to Gene here is the info:

If you have ordered your Drive Shaft it will be shipped out on Monday, they are being high speed balance on 2 different machines to make sure that when we get them that we will have not problems like a vibration issue which is fine with me. I want perfect so I can move to the next mod and not worry about the mod before it.

Also he is now including new bolts that connect it to the rearend so we don't have to reuse our old ones which is nice because the factory ones are about 1/2 inch longer than what we need which isn't a problem to use but these will make a cleaner install.

If you have not ordered yours yet remember the dead line is Tuesday. This is a important mod if your going to be adding more HP to your Shelby or if you like to hammer it a little on some back roads :) Not that any of us would do that ?

Hammer time.:D :D :D

ordered =D

I went with the Dynotech 1-Piece. Love it! Paid $600.00 but well worth it.

Good Luck

flipmo

I went with the Dynotech 1-Piece. Love it! Paid $600.00 but well worth it.

Good Luck

flipmo


What is it you like so much? What does it do or make the car do that was worth $600. For most folks I just do not get this 'need' to change the drive shaft. Has anyone with out a blower change or slicks actually broken the stock one?

What is it you like so much? What does it do or make the car do that was worth $600. For most folks I just do not get this 'need' to change the drive shaft. Has anyone with out a blower change or slicks actually broken the stock one?



Yes I know a couple of people that have shattered their drive shafts.I know 1 guy that has blown a drive shaft 2x's.No blower change and no slicks.He didn't want to spend the extra money but now he has.He got lucky 2x's.The original 2 piece is good for stock HP.Anything above that you are asking for trouble.Go ahead change your blower pulley,air intake and tune.After you beat on it a few times come on back.This has been discussed a lot.There are many other benefits also.So there is a "need".:D :D

Plus, buying stuff for your Shelby is fun. :D

Plus, buying stuff for your Shelby is fun. :D




Prez you are so right,again.:D Safety and pleasure are the best reasons.:D

Yep, agree, agree, agree. I had been told by several and read where people were actually busting their driveshafts with only basic bolt-ons. There was no way I wasn't going to change mine with my current mods and not swap out the shaft. That is like boiling hot water and waiting for it to spew over.

Dang, 07 and Prez you are correct! I still find myself also searching the websites and Ebay just looking for something small/large to put on the car. Well, my cobra cigarette light plug, cobra mats, and shorty antenna did finally come in. Now I'm looking for other small tinker stuff. Any suggestions?

Where are you all getting the signed "Carroll Shelby Dash Plates"?

I'll Hollow

flipmo

Where are you all getting the signed "Carroll Shelby Dash Plates"?



Signed Dash Plaque (http://www.shelbyperformanceparts.com/ShowItem/100514.aspx)

Signed Dash Plaque (http://www.shelbyperformanceparts.com/ShowItem/100514.aspx)

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet! Thanks. Definitely saved that website. I now have to go and ask for a credit line increase as there are a lot of kool stuff in there.

Thanks Prez

flip

Yep, agree, agree, agree. I had been told by several and read where people were actually busting their driveshafts with only basic bolt-ons. There was no way I wasn't going to change mine with my current mods and not swap out the shaft. That is like boiling hot water and waiting for it to spew over.

Dang, 07 and Prez you are correct! I still find myself also searching the websites and Ebay just looking for something small/large to put on the car. Well, my cobra cigarette light plug, cobra mats, and shorty antenna did finally come in. Now I'm looking for other small tinker stuff. Any suggestions?

Where are you all getting the signed "Carroll Shelby Dash Plates"?

I'll Hollow

flipmo




6th item down on the link below....................07....................... ....



http://shelbyperformanceparts.com/ListItems/MainCategory/Interior/Page/3.aspx

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet! Thanks. Definitely saved that website. I now have to go and ask for a credit line increase as there are a lot of kool stuff in there.

Thanks Prez

flip

damn Flipmo, you got big time credit.....hehe......your ride is still sweeeeeet too. can't wait to see it! You rock!

Just checked the status of my order and it says "not processed" I am order #57, just wondering if anyone has recieved them yet.

What order #are you?

I am waiting to put my exhaust on. I am going to do the drive shaft and exhaust at the same time.

JJ

Just got this email from Gene a few minutes ago.

Bill,

It was a pleasure working with you on the group purchase one piece GT500 steel drive shaft. Mid Coast Performance has exceeded our initial thought on the total number of orders that we would receive. I will have the drive shafts produced next week for shipment by the end of the week.

I will have the recap on the orders from your group with shipping information. I have made two improvements in our design to the drive shaft. It will be made out of DIOM Steel and have a foam core to reduce harmonics in the car. This will also increase the potential power the shaft will withstand.

At this time I am willing to extend the ordering deadline by two weeks to allow anybody that didn’t get the chance to place their order the opportunity to do so. The new deadline will be August 13, 2007 5:00 PM Central Time.

I look forward to working with you in the future on additional group purchase.

Thank You.

Gene Borton
www.midcoastperformance.com
Mid Coast Performance
4529 Towne Ct
St Charles, MO 63304
636-928-7223 Telephone
636-928-7758 Fax

When changing out the drive shaft will we have to adjust the pinion angle? Or is it a direct swap?

Direct Swap, the pinion angle is for wheel hop and lowering cars, however I purchased the Steeda Stop the Hop kit and this thing is rock solid, have hammered it when tires are cold, hot, different roads and no wheel hop just spinning and going forward :) Drive shaft swap out should take 30 to 45 minutes as long as your somewhere where your car is on a lift.

Direct Swap, the pinion angle is for wheel hop and lowering cars, however I purchased the Steeda Stop the Hop kit and this thing is rock solid, have hammered it when tires are cold, hot, different roads and no wheel hop just spinning and going forward :) Drive shaft swap out should take 30 to 45 minutes as long as your somewhere where your car is on a lift.

Tell me about your steeda kit. I am in the market for rear suspension tune , as I prepare to start @ the rear instead of the engine. I see every one reply to many different kits . Looking for the one that will not hop but will also plant the rear tires for some gone.

Thanks ILLEGAL

Hi Illegal, this is what I went with. I changed out the stock components and went with the Steeda Upper "&" Lower Control Arms. I changed the PanHard Bar and Brace with a more beefed up setup and went with the Eiback Pro-Kit Springs. Just for safety puposes, change the driveshaft please as I went with the Dynotech 1-Piece Aluminum Driveshaft.


Yes, it does make a difference and "No More Wheel Hop Whatsoever". If I had to do it all over again and had to piece it out, I would definitely start with suspension modifications as these cars are terrible for wheel hop.:mad:

Good Luck

flip

Direct Swap, the pinion angle is for wheel hop and lowering cars, however I purchased the Steeda Stop the Hop kit and this thing is rock solid, have hammered it when tires are cold, hot, different roads and no wheel hop just spinning and going forward :) Drive shaft swap out should take 30 to 45 minutes as long as your somewhere where your car is on a lift.

I will be on my back in my garage with the car on jack stands. I will be adding a bassani 3" w/ no cats and x pipe at the same time. Everything except the stock exhaust manifolds. Will probably end up getting long tubes later. It just seems like a pain in the arse to install them.:eek:

I will be on my back in my garage with the car on jack stands. I will be adding a bassani 3" w/ no cats and x pipe at the same time. Everything except the stock exhaust manifolds. Will probably end up getting long tubes later. It just seems like a pain in the arse to install them.:eek:


I can respect your journey on jack stands.I replaced brake pads,panhard rod,panhard rod brace,lca,uca,driveshaft,short throw shifter,motor mounts,mufflers,3 point torque boxes and yes,long tube headers.Yes they are a pain in the a$$ to do but can be done.;) ;)

I can respect your journey on jack stands.I replaced brake pads,panhard rod,panhard rod brace,lca,uca,driveshaft,short throw shifter,motor mounts,mufflers,3 point torque boxes and yes,long tube headers.Yes they are a pain in the a$$ to do but can be done.;) ;)

Why did yo replace the motor mounts? and which ones did you go with? I plan to do all of the above eventually but never thought about the motor mounts, maybe I should reconsider that too!:rolleyes:

Why did yo replace the motor mounts? and which ones did you go with? I plan to do all of the above eventually but never thought about the motor mounts, maybe I should reconsider that too!:rolleyes:



Your motor mounts are called "hydra mounts".They are oil filled.Due to the HP and torque mine puts out now I didn't want to tear the mount and have oil all over.That motor takes quite a jolt when I hit the go pedal(Prez).I did it over the winter at my convenience not when I had to.:D :DThe motor mounts are made by Prothane.They are billet aluminum and polyurethane

Your motor mounts are called "hydra mounts".They are oil filled.Due to the HP and torque mine puts out now I didn't want to tear the mount and have oil all over.That motor takes quite a jolt when I hit the go pedal(Prez).I did it over the winter at my convenience not when I had to.:D :DThe motor mounts are made by Prothane.They are billet aluminum and polyurethane

where did you get them?

and how much were they?

when are we supposed to be getting these?

what is the price of the drive shaft. because my order still says $499 and I thought it was supposed to be at a discount other than what they are advertising.

thanks
JJ

Has anyone from this group puchase recieved theirs yet?

if i remember reading right from one of bill's posts. the discount is something like $25 which will reflect on the final price. your order as mine shows without shipping costs. Bill mentioned that it will probably just cover shipping which is fine with me! If you want an update I recommend doing what anyone else would do and calling them. I've called a few times and they are very nice people to work with, very polite and up front.

to answer your second question, i have not, my order still hasn't been put through, i'm order #60 according to my sheet.

=D my gears are sitting next to me now, i'm waiting on this driveshaft to have them put in =D

Hello All,

I am going to call them this morning to find out, I have been on vacation for the past week, and now it is time to get the low down on our DS. I will post up ASAP. Feel free to contact him as well.

Gene @ 636-928-7223

TTYL

to answer your second question, i have not, my order still hasn't been put through, i'm order #60 according to my sheet.



I am order #57

I was waiting to put in my exhaust at the same time, but couldn't wait any longer. I installed it Friday morning, but it still needs tweaked a little because it is viberating and rubbing on something. I will adjust it when I install the Drive shaft.

JJ

Just talked to them a few minutes ago, and the 2 cars that was having an issue when speeds were over 100mph are getting them installed tomorrow and if everything is a go than they should start shipping this week. The owner is suppose to call me tomorrow and give me the word, which I will pass along as soon as he hangs up with me.

Talk to you all soon,

Just talked to them a few minutes ago, and the 2 cars that was having an issue when speeds were over 100mph are getting them installed tomorrow and if everything is a go than they should start shipping this week. The owner is suppose to call me tomorrow and give me the word, which I will pass along as soon as he hangs up with me.

Talk to you all soon,


Yes this would be an issue for me too. I regularly drive at those speeds! I love this car and enjoy the power it provides me!:D :D :D :D :D :D

I am order #57

I was waiting to put in my exhaust at the same time, but couldn't wait any longer. I installed it Friday morning, but it still needs tweaked a little because it is viberating and rubbing on something. I will adjust it when I install the Drive shaft.

JJ

Guys, where or when did you recieve your order #s ? I ordered 7/31 and have not recieved confirmation or any thing else at this time. I hope they have all their stuff together. I sure don't need any 500.00 yard post, with a u joint on each end.

20.00 was the discount given.

ILLEGAL

i want my drive shaft!! = )

Guys, where or when did you recieve your order #s ? I ordered 7/31 and have not recieved confirmation or any thing else at this time. I hope they have all their stuff together. I sure don't need any 500.00 yard post, with a u joint on each end.

20.00 was the discount given.

ILLEGAL

I ordered mine on the first monday that it was ok to order. I ordered on line and it give me a order # right away once I submitted the order.

This sounds almost as bad as my wait for second gear.:D :D I can understand my wait for a transmission buts whats up with the drive shaft? I ordered mine from Evolution and had it the next day, but I did spend much more. Maybe it is still in the experimental stage with all that sound deadning material, or their balancing machine is down:rolleyes:

I ordered mine on the first monday that it was ok to order. I ordered on line and it give me a order # right away once I submitted the order.

croz,
I ordered over the phone, so may be that takes care of the order #. Wonder what else is up ? In their defense I did not ask a ship date. Still gathering junk up. Will install when it is something less than 105 faranheight.

ILLEGAL

New update about Drive Shaft. The one piece drive shaft (any one piece) requires a pinion angle change. This can be done with an adjustable UCA which allot of members have. It seems like the design of the car that the one piece will put a slight bind on the U joints, which after some time will cause a U-joint failure if you don't change the pinion angle. This is the information that I have found out in the past few days but waiting on more info from which I will post up. Right now just waiting to hear the verdict before decideing my next step.

If you've lowered your car, that will also make it more difficult to get the angles right. Been there, done that.

hmmmmm...

So... What you're saying Bill is that I need to get on the ball and order the EVO kit pronto before my driveshaft shows up??

son of a...

hmmmmm...

So... What you're saying Bill is that I need to get on the ball and order the EVO kit pronto before my driveshaft shows up??

son of a...

It never ends. It never ends.

nope... it doesn't =D

suspension was next in-line anyways :)

The pinion angle on my stock two piece was a -2, which is what I maintained after installing the adjustable UCA. I think that the same stock pinion angle should be maintained even after installation of the one piece drive shaft. The UCA installation instructions from BMR recommended a pinion angle range for standard tranny's and the stock pinion angle was within that range. I intend to mantain the same angle after installation of my one piece.

The pinion angle on my stock two piece was a -2, which is what I maintained after installing the adjustable UCA. I think that the same stock pinion angle should be maintained even after installation of the one piece drive shaft. The UCA installation instructions from BMR recommended a pinion angle range for standard tranny's and the stock pinion angle was within that range. I intend to mantain the same angle after installation of my one piece.

You are correct. At the stock ride height, my one piece had the same angle as the 2 piece (more or less). The issue came when I dropped the car by about 1.5". It makes sense, as the tranny output drops by 1.5" in relation to the rear diff input. The angle went from almost -2 to -0.5. The tech put some shims under the rear motor mounts (as a temporary fix) to get enough angle. What I will probably end up doing is changing the front motor mounts to get rid of the shims, and rotate the tranny output shaft up enough to get a good angle again.

Can anyone tell me why Ford did not use a 1 piece drive shaft from the beginning. In fact it looks like all the flavor of mustangs, steeda, saleen, they all a 2 piece drive shaft. So I was wondering is that for a specific reason because I can understand Ford doing it, but the other guys that have unlimited resouces they could have easliy put a one piece in but have read on other boards that they didn't. Just makes me wonder why ?

What about the SUPER SNAKE pkg is it still a 2 piece? or the saleen extreme?

Greg

I believe you should be able to adjust pinion angle with the adjustable UCA, which should eliminate the need for motor mount shims. The adjustble UCA rotates the rear axle making the necessary adjustment for a correct pinion angle.

Greg

I believe you should be able to adjust pinion angle with the adjustable UCA, which should eliminate the need for motor mount shims. The adjustble UCA rotates the rear axle making the necessary adjustment for a correct pinion angle.

Which is exactly what I said to the tech. He said he tried that, but could only get about .5 degrees difference between the angles. With the shims, he is at about .75 degrees difference. Optimally, you want at least 1 degree difference. That's what I've been told, anyhow. We'll be playing around with it a little.

I want to be under the car next time, because I agree with you. The adjustable UCA should yield enough play to get whatever we need. The driveshaft will need to be disconnected to get the front and rear driveshaft loops installed, and the panhard rod will be swapped out - giving a little better access to the UCA.

After the problems the one guy had with the MCP driveshaft, is there another model that people are suggesting we go with? Also drive-shaft loops? Any better than others?

Thanks,
Jason

Which is exactly what I said to the tech. He said he tried that, but could only get about .5 degrees difference between the angles. With the shims, he is at about .75 degrees difference. Optimally, you want at least 1 degree difference. That's what I've been told, anyhow. We'll be playing around with it a little.

I want to be under the car next time, because I agree with you. The adjustable UCA should yield enough play to get whatever we need. The driveshaft will need to be disconnected to get the front and rear driveshaft loops installed, and the panhard rod will be swapped out - giving a little better access to the UCA.

With all that out of the way I am sure he will be able to get a good look and enough adjustment on the UCA to eliminate the need for motor mount shims. Which UCA do you have? If my memory serves me right, you installed the Steeda Pro version. Mine is BMR and I believe there is enough adjustment to maintain the necessary pinion angle after a 1.5" lowering kit.

Your memory is spot on. That's the UCA I have.

The pictures I saw of the drive shaft issue looks like the hulk grapped both ends and twisted. This is not the look of a drive shaft from doing a burn out or just driving, something else has happen that we are not being told about. Having a 4x4 and doing some screwing around in the mud I produced the same type of break, but I was spinning like crazy and than my rearend locked up and when it did guess what my shaft looked like the picture. So I would say we are missing the whole story. And yes loops would be a must. In fact you should have 2 one up front and one in the rear so if you ever did have a problem no matter where it would break you would be covered. I don't think 1 will cover you for both places. MCP sells the double loops in case your interested.

just recieved an email saying that mine has been shipped, I am order nmber 57. Oh yeah and my invoice doesn't show a discount. $499 + $20 = $519 I entered in the code at the time of order.:mad:

just recieved an email saying that mine has been shipped, I am order nmber 57. Oh yeah and my invoice doesn't show a discount. $499 + $20 = $519 I entered in the code at the time of order.:mad:

I recieved my e mail invoice today as well, Discount noddaa. Shipping tomorrow. I called mine in and gave the discount code.

Busa, where, when did you see these pictures that you mentioned ?

ILLEGAL

I recieved my e mail invoice today as well, Discount noddaa. Shipping tomorrow. I called mine in and gave the discount code.

Busa, where, when did you see these pictures that you mentioned ?

ILLEGAL



Ray,
He got the pictures from this thread at SU.I have not seen too much good out of this.I recommend everyone read this thread and think 2x's before you install.Sorry Bill I have to say it like I see it.Please read,this link is in the middle of the thread where the pictures are.


http://www.stangsunleashed.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9645&st=80

I've just been made aware of this, I'm kind of wondering if I should accept delivery at this point. I did block payment on my CC for the time being. Are we getting a updated DS. What caused that Failure?! I didn't really need one, mine is stock I was getting it for the future mods. I wasn't even going to install it until I got a new exhuast system installed.

Would like to hear other thoughts on this subject. As a buyer I take full responsibility for purchase. I am not looking for a scape goat, but I do not want to own a inferior product. Especially if I am going to destroy floor pans, trans housings and a GT 500 in general. I think that when making a purchase buyer should have a certain amount of product expectations. Am I wrong ?

Other opinions.

ILLEGAL

I don't think you are wrong at all. I really feel everyone on this group buy should refuse shipment and call thier CC company to stop payment until MCP comes clean on HarleyDealer's faulty shaft and resulting damage and they figure out EXACTLY how they propose to upgrade thier design to fix the problem. Until that time you REALLY do not want to install this shaft so why pay for it? Perhaps a group of returned orders will get them the message that they need to come clean on the problems.

Would like to hear other thoughts on this subject. As a buyer I take full responsibility for purchase. I am not looking for a scape goat, but I do not want to own a inferior product. Especially if I am going to destroy floor pans, trans housings and a GT 500 in general. I think that when making a purchase buyer should have a certain amount of product expectations. Am I wrong ?

Other opinions.

ILLEGAL

ILLEGAL you are right on, in common law jurisdictions the term is "Implied Warranty", and in this case such implied warrany is "fitness for a particular purpose".

I don't think you are wrong at all. I really feel everyone on this group buy should refuse shipment and call thier CC company to stop payment until MCP comes clean on HarleyDealer's faulty shaft and resulting damage and they figure out EXACTLY how they propose to upgrade thier design to fix the problem. Until that time you REALLY do not want to install this shaft so why pay for it? Perhaps a group of returned orders will get them the message that they need to come clean on the problems.

Really good post IMO!

Can any one tell me what test do manufactors perform in testing and rating a drive shaft. I have had many serious high horse cars in my life. I have ripped and torn every concievable drive train component imaginable, but never have I twisted a d/s tube like a pretzel. My Camaro would pull 1.49 60s every day and not do it. I thought they were weak on the ends. U joints, yokes, pinions.

ILLEGAL

I called Gene at MCP to talk about this issue, I think anyone that has a concern should call and talk to him. He will fill everyone in on the drive shaft that got destroyed. As you read the thread of course you will only be reading what happen, not what caused it. As always there is 2 sides of the story. I don't want anyone doing this if they do not feel comfortable about the purchase. And for those that are going with it you should have a drive shaft loop, most companies including MCP have the double set which is what everyone recommends for the new style mustangs.

Ray,
He got the pictures from this thread at SU.I have not seen too much good out of this.I recommend everyone read this thread and think 2x's before you install.Sorry Bill I have to say it like I see it.Please read,this link is in the middle of the thread where the pictures are.


http://www.stangsunleashed.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9645&st=80

Thanks for the info. Makes me feel beter with my EVO Aluminum. You ghet what you pay for may have struck again. I feel bad for these guys and the damage caused........:(

I called Gene at MCP to talk about this issue, I think anyone that has a concern should call and talk to him. He will fill everyone in on the drive shaft that got destroyed. As you read the thread of course you will only be reading what happen, not what caused it. As always there is 2 sides of the story. I don't want anyone doing this if they do not feel comfortable about the purchase. And for those that are going with it you should have a drive shaft loop, most companies including MCP have the double set which is what everyone recommends for the new style mustangs.

Busa

I am going to call Gene tomorrow. Hopefully there will be resolution.

Two D/S loops would not hace stopped what took place in photos. You can stop a loose shaft from going crazy, and hitting the ground, but when it bent instead of braking every turn it made was banging, jerking and exerting pull or push energy in a different direction. This is why there was sooooo much damage.

ILLEGAL

Remember looking at those pictures you have to ask yourself what could twist a piece of steel like that. I U-joint break...NO WAY broke them in my 4x4 more times than not abusing my truck, a burn out no way, hard launch no you would be stopped before that kind of damage would be done, but imagine yourself doing 55mph or higher and having the rearend lockup or a trans lock up, you would twisted it like a dixie straw. Does a drive shaft cause rearends to lock up, or Transmission problems not that I have ever seen, so the question is what caused it to happen in the first place, and the force that did that to steel, what would it have done to aluminum ?

No, I can tell you what I see in those photos, its not a trans or diff lock up but the failure of a drive shaft due to harmonics causing the shaft to bow. At the correct speed (frequency) it goes from a mild vibration to catastrophic failure in just a couple of seconds while under load. This is what a failure at speed looks like when the shaft itself fails rather than the u-joints. There has been at least one other fellow that had very nearly the same type of failure on a different brand of shaft in a GT. (thread is titled 'diveshaft failure at 70mph' or something like that) on another board.

This could also have been and installation problem but it that was the case, the u-joint should have failed. The shaft should have been stronger than the joints and should not have had any harmonics at any driving speed.

Hello All,

Not sure where everyone stands on the drive shaft issue, I know I have gotten allot of PM from members that are wanting to look at other vendors which I fully understand. So I have contacted the vendor Dynotech which makes a aluminum drive shaft for the Shebly GT500 this drive shaft is rated for 700 Plus HP at the rear wheels, balanced at 8K rpms. This is the brand that other members have used and love them and have had not issues. This shaft is 3-1/2 inches in dia. This company sells to Roush and Steeda so if you purchase one of those shafts this is who makes it. So for those that are still interested I have contacted them about a group buy. Same deal as before we will be given a code name. The normal cost of the shaft is $ 739.00 if we get between 10 & 14 purchases the price will go down to $ 584.00. Below is their website so you can read who they build shafts for and see how long they have been in business. Which is very impressive. Since I can't keep my mailbox cleared out fast enough her is my yahoo account to send me an email if your interested and than I can tell the company how many we are looking at, get a code word sent to you etc.

Todays date is Wed Aug 29th and I would like to order next week at the latest. My car is going back to the strip end of the month and I need it on by than, so if your insterested please hit me up

My email account:

vmaxbaby@yahoo.com

Their website to learn more about them:

http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

I just got mine from MCP today. Emailed Gene and had a few inquires. He stated it was built with a liner vice foam in the core. Said the manufacturer didnt want to use foam due to material shifting during use over time. So i posed new questions to Gene and waiting a response.

Talked to Gene. Shaft w/liner is what was tested on a stock height GT500. No pinion angle changes. We'll see.

I'm going to get the DS hoops Also. Just to be safe!

I'm going to get the DS hoops Also. Just to be safe!

I didn't see the drive shaft loops on MCP website, do you have a link?
or
do you have a pic and a price?
thx
JJ

If you give Gene a Call he will hook you up with a set of drive shaft safety loops.

If you give Gene a Call he will hook you up with a set of drive shaft safety loops.

for free? I have already recieve my drive shaft! It came one day last week I have not installed it, I am waiting! I don't think I will be going back to the track soon, I need to do more thing to the car first (I can't hook up on the stock tires anymore, and don't want to ride the clutch) I need tires, suspension and gears first!

Hello Guys,
In case your still looking for a drive shaft deal here is another one from coastdrive line. http://www.coastdriveline.com/NEW_Mustang.htm

Below is a response to his email which is a pretty good deal. If it sounds good
to you and your interested please email my at vmaxbaby@yahoo.com and I will find out the code word and email it back to you. This is a 1 week deal maybe 2 if he gets allot of orders but for now 1 week only. Today is Sept 6th 2007.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill
our retail one pc. price for GT500 IS 695.00 + FREIGHT
10 pc. 595.00 + freight this is for the 700+ hp drive shaft.

So if 10 people or more are interested they knock off $ 95.00 than we can spend that on something else for the car :)

My drive shaft will be here next week, so I will post up some pictures and give you my thoughts on it. Going to the drag strip with the beast in 3 weeks so wanted to make sure I had it in time for that :)

Got my DS last week, and DS loops today. Time to install them all. Loaded in the Corsa Cats last night as well, what a difference.

I put on the Whole 9 yards, well 7 yards on over the last week, Evolution Stage 4, Light weight DS and Hoops. Put about 100 miles on him today just to test it out. The driveline shutter from a stop in almost gone. What a Difference. I thought when I programed my Superduty it made a big difference, Man-O-Man will Mobeydick jr. Flat out run now!!

I put on the Whole 9 yards, well 7 yards on over the last week, Evolution Stage 4, Light weight DS and Hoops. Put about 100 miles on him today just to test it out. The driveline shutter from a stop in almost gone. What a Difference. I thought when I programed my Superduty it made a big difference, Man-O-Man will Mobeydick jr. Flat out run now!!


Yeah, it is a really good feeling! Don't worry you will want more, everyone does at some time.......lol:D

Now you got what you paid for! a Fast Car!!!!;)

Finally got my drive shaft install last week and some pictures to post. There is a big difference between factory and aftermarket drive shafts I can tell you that. Besides the weight you have less moving parts which does not make horsepower but it makes use of the power you have more efficiently. Meaning you pick up performance because your motor is turning less mechanics and less weight.

So here is my take on this: The install directions were 100%, you did not have to scratch your head and wonder what a step means. All hardware was included except you need to have some loctite. Having a lift is not a must but makes it very easy. I did not time it but guessing from start to finish was about 90 minutes which included getting the tools out of the tool box, cleaning up, taking pictures etc.

This shaft is rated for 900hp at the wheels which I don't see myself going over that anytime soon. Once driving the car I noticed right away more throttle response, because of the less weight turning and only being one piece. If you have not done, intake, tune, or pulley of course do those first you will get more bang for your buck, but after you have done all those mods you should have this high on your list for your 4th performance mod in my opinion. Here are some pictures attached before and after, and if your interested in this shaft check out their website: http://www.coastdriveline.com/NEW_Mustang.htm

Yea, i felt the same difference when driving, and/or rather flooring it. Response was much faster.

Finally got my drive shaft install last week and some pictures to post. There is a big difference between factory and aftermarket drive shafts I can tell you that. Besides the weight you have less moving parts which does not make horsepower but it makes use of the power you have more efficiently. Meaning you pick up performance because your motor is turning less mechanics and less weight.

So here is my take on this: The install directions were 100%, you did not have to scratch your head and wonder what a step means. All hardware was included except you need to have some loctite. Having a lift is not a must but makes it very easy. I did not time it but guessing from start to finish was about 90 minutes which included getting the tools out of the tool box, cleaning up, taking pictures etc.

This shaft is rated for 900hp at the wheels which I don't see myself going over that anytime soon. Once driving the car I noticed right away more throttle response, because of the less weight turning and only being one piece. If you have not done, intake, tune, or pulley of course do those first you will get more bang for your buck, but after you have done all those mods you should have this high on your list for your 4th performance mod in my opinion. Here are some pictures attached before and after, and if your interested in this shaft check out their website: http://www.coastdriveline.com/NEW_Mustang.htm



Hey BUS, did you put on a loop?

I had the Dynotec 1 piece and added a safety loop too.

I put a loop front and back just to make sure, I doubt I ever break it since it will never have slicks on it as long as I own it and I am going to the drag strip only one more time so after this month if nothing happens I should be okay for the life of it :)

Finally got my drive shaft install last week and some pictures to post. There is a big difference between factory and aftermarket drive shafts I can tell you that. Besides the weight you have less moving parts which does not make horsepower but it makes use of the power you have more efficiently. Meaning you pick up performance because your motor is turning less mechanics and less weight.

So here is my take on this: The install directions were 100%, you did not have to scratch your head and wonder what a step means. All hardware was included except you need to have some loctite. Having a lift is not a must but makes it very easy. I did not time it but guessing from start to finish was about 90 minutes which included getting the tools out of the tool box, cleaning up, taking pictures etc.

This shaft is rated for 900hp at the wheels which I don't see myself going over that anytime soon. Once driving the car I noticed right away more throttle response, because of the less weight turning and only being one piece. If you have not done, intake, tune, or pulley of course do those first you will get more bang for your buck, but after you have done all those mods you should have this high on your list for your 4th performance mod in my opinion. Here are some pictures attached before and after, and if your interested in this shaft check out their website: http://www.coastdriveline.com/NEW_Mustang.htm

Which model did you go with...

CD60390 or CD60390HD ?

Safety loops?

How much was this driveshaft? it soesnt say on the website. Also, is there any modification for a stock gt500 when installing the drivshaft? (i.e: is it truly just bolt in and go?)





Finally got my drive shaft install last week and some pictures to post. There is a big difference between factory and aftermarket drive shafts I can tell you that. Besides the weight you have less moving parts which does not make horsepower but it makes use of the power you have more efficiently. Meaning you pick up performance because your motor is turning less mechanics and less weight.

So here is my take on this: The install directions were 100%, you did not have to scratch your head and wonder what a step means. All hardware was included except you need to have some loctite. Having a lift is not a must but makes it very easy. I did not time it but guessing from start to finish was about 90 minutes which included getting the tools out of the tool box, cleaning up, taking pictures etc.

This shaft is rated for 900hp at the wheels which I don't see myself going over that anytime soon. Once driving the car I noticed right away more throttle response, because of the less weight turning and only being one piece. If you have not done, intake, tune, or pulley of course do those first you will get more bang for your buck, but after you have done all those mods you should have this high on your list for your 4th performance mod in my opinion. Here are some pictures attached before and after, and if your interested in this shaft check out their website: http://www.coastdriveline.com/NEW_Mustang.htm

How much was this driveshaft? it soesnt say on the website. Also, is there any modification for a stock gt500 when installing the drivshaft? (i.e: is it truly just bolt in and go?)


Mine is steel from MCP and a direct bolt on, like i'm sure all are. Just have to verify angles of the pumpkin and tranny. Provided you haven't lowered the car. If so, you should have changed your axle angle. Installed the loops at the same time. I think cost was in the neighborhood of 700 +/-.

Mine is steel from MCP and a direct bolt on, like i'm sure all are. Just have to verify angles of the pumpkin and tranny. Provided you haven't lowered the car. If so, you should have changed your axle angle. Installed the loops at the same time. I think cost was in the neighborhood of 700 +/-.


+1 Mines been Great so far!! Eliminated 90% of the Driveline shutter!!

Truly plug and play unlike Microsoft Windows :) I know most of you don't know me we are just user names on a website but I will tell you something. I call a spaid a spaid, I do not sugar coat anything unless my girlfriend ask me if her butt is getting bigger I might slow my roll than but if I write something down on a product you can take it to the bank. The drive shaft is a very easy mod and a well worth mod. I went with the HD shaft. They sell 2 models one for 500hp rear wheel and the other is for 900HP real wheel. The 500hp shaft which I think is around $ 575.00 they have it in cars that have close to 700hp that drag race often and have had no problems, but the difference in cost was $ 100.00 so I figure why not.

I have read this whole thread but still can't come up with a main concensis.?? Aluminum or steel? Who has the best shaft? I've seen everyone from Roush, to Evo, to Coastdriveline and everyone is different.So does that mean it is all in how much money you want to spend or what? Input PLEASE

Evo put on a solid aluminum 1 piece w/loop for me. Their take is lighter is better, and aluminum is as strong, or stronger in this config as steel. Definetly lighter. That's how I decided. They sell Dynotec shafts. I'm told they are 1 of the leading mfg'rs, if not the best. They mfg for many labels. Hope that helps..........:)

I went with the DynoTech aluminum, also, Jim. You can get it from Evo or straight from their site:

http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

I knew that 07 SHELBY had this one and that Steeda and Roush go with this one, too, so I felt they had to be top drawer. Mine was $749 delivered from DynoTech. It seems to spin up a little quicker, may be my imagination, but I like it!

I went with the DynoTech aluminum, also, Jim. You can get it from Evo or straight from their site:

http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

I knew that 07 SHELBY had this one and that Steeda and Roush go with this one, too, so I felt they had to be top drawer. Mine was $749 delivered from DynoTech. It seems to spin up a little quicker, may be my imagination, but I like it!


What he said:D

What he said:D

Back from what your boss wanted you to do already huh?????????:cool:

I went with the DynoTech aluminum, also, Jim. You can get it from Evo or straight from their site:

http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

I knew that 07 SHELBY had this one and that Steeda and Roush go with this one, too, so I felt they had to be top drawer. Mine was $749 delivered from DynoTech. It seems to spin up a little quicker, may be my imagination, but I like it!

Thanks for the help guys. I know with the knowledge of 07 and oldimp you can't go wrong. Just ordered it, should be here some time next week. Take care Jim

Thanks for the help guys. I know with the knowledge of 07 and oldimp you can't go wrong. Just ordered it, should be here some time next week. Take care Jim

Jim, I appreciate the comment, but I don't know much about modifications really! I do know that there are several guys on this forum that I trust completely and 07 is my main guy! Then again, I will go out on a limb now and then and go with something a little different than what everyone else has gone with. Ask 07!

In this case, I feel confident that you have made a good choice and you will be pleased with your new driveshaft!

Thanks for the help guys. I know with the knowledge of 07 and oldimp you can't go wrong. Just ordered it, should be here some time next week. Take care Jim

Boy now I do feel dissed!!!!!;) ;)

I'm with oldimp, I've taken 07 on as my "SHELBY MENTOR". He is the main man for info on this site. Like Ron said, there are others, but 07 is "THE MAN". :cool: :cool:

Even if he hates me!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D :D :rolleyes:

Boy now I do feel dissed!!!!!;) ;)

I'm with oldimp, I've taken 07 on as my "SHELBY MENTOR". He is the main man for info on this site. Like Ron said, there are others, but 07 is "THE MAN". :cool: :cool:

Even if he hates me!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D :D :rolleyes:

No way 07 hates you, Joe! You are his kind of people!

And mine, too!:)

No way 07 hates you, Joe! You are his kind of people!

And mine, too!:)

Thanks Ron!!!!!!!!!! But he said!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!;) ;) ;)

Just going through my CD's again.......................

Boy now I do feel dissed!!!!!;) ;)

I'm with oldimp, I've taken 07 on as my "SHELBY MENTOR". He is the main man for info on this site. Like Ron said, there are others, but 07 is "THE MAN". :cool: :cool:

Even if he hates me!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D :D :rolleyes:



Don't feel dissed.We love you man(I don't hate you):D

Thanks Ron!!!!!!!!!! But he said!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!;) ;) ;)

Just going through my CD's again.......................


Hey,I just checked my mail and I still don't have pictures.You had to say that didn't you:rolleyes: :rolleyes: ;)

Back from what your boss wanted you to do already huh?????????:cool:

Yep,I like to get stuff done.That's why my boss likes me.

Boy now I do feel dissed!!!!!;) ;)

I'm with oldimp, I've taken 07 on as my "SHELBY MENTOR". He is the main man for info on this site. Like Ron said, there are others, but 07 is "THE MAN". :cool: :cool:

Even if he hates me!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D :D :rolleyes:

Hey Guys I'm SORRY if I sounded like I was dissing anyone. I did not do it on purpose. I had only heard from Ron and Fred when I had posted my question, so if it sounded like I was dissing anyone else I'm sorry Take care Jim

Just got a call from Dynotech. My new driveshaft is ready to be picked up. Talk about fast, I just ordered it on Friday and this is Tuesday. Hope it's a good one or I know who I'm going to hold responsible(F.&R.)

Just got a call from Dynotech. My new driveshaft is ready to be picked up. Talk about fast, I just ordered it on Friday and this is Tuesday. Hope it's a good one or I know who I'm going to hold responsible(F.&R.)

I'm not sweatin' it! It will be a good one!

Just got a call from Dynotech. My new driveshaft is ready to be picked up. Talk about fast, I just ordered it on Friday and this is Tuesday. Hope it's a good one or I know who I'm going to hold responsible(F.&R.)




(F.&R.)

Is that Ford and Roush or Fred and Ron?:D

Holy S%*t I can't believe the difference between the stock driveshaft (that I just had a hernia taking out) and the new Aluminum one I got from Dynotech. I can tell just from looking it will make a BIG difference. I will let you all know when I finish with the gears and brake pads. Thanks to all for the info on getting the right parts.Take care Mustangnut

(F.&R.)

Is that Ford and Roush or Fred and Ron?:D

You KNOW who you are!!

You KNOW who you are!!




Yep,Ron he's talking about you.:D

You KNOW who you are!!

Should I have said "you know who you BOTH are"?????????

Should I have said "you know who you BOTH are"?????????



Ok I see the big picture now;)

It is all about money.The 2 piece they can control vibration and harshness also.If you modify your Shelby for more H.P. you will eventually blow your 2 piece.

How far can one go with the stock DS? I'm thinking of doing a CAI and tune, which adds ~70 HP. Can I keep the stock DS?

How far can one go with the stock DS? I'm thinking of doing a CAI and tune, which adds ~70 HP. Can I keep the stock DS?

You should be alright.Anything else and you are asking for trouble.

I too have just the CAI & Tune but every now and then starting off (especially on a hill) it feels like something is twisting back there. Is that the 2-piece driveshaft? Also, are you guy's really noticing increased performance with these? If it's just bolt on & off I'd be willing to do that to get rid of that driveline torqing and I could always bolt it back on if I run into any powertrain warranty issues.--Thanks:)

The stock 2-piece DS is very heavy. IIRC the aftermarket shaft is about 20 pounds lighter than the OEM shaft. You will see a performance gain with the aluminum DS, since it allows the engine to "spool up" a little faster, because it doesn't have as much weight to get moving. Now whether the slight gain in performance and the slight increase in NVH is worth the price of admission, that's up to you.

I'm just wondering if it gets rid of that twisting feeling starting off or if that is something else....it feels like that is the right area and the 2 piece ds would explain that. I never felt it in my 05 GT. Also is everybody doing the loops or would that make it harder to return to stock in case of warranty issues down the road (tranny).:confused:

I'm just wondering if it gets rid of that twisting feeling starting off or if that is something else....it feels like that is the right area and the 2 piece ds would explain that. I never felt it in my 05 GT. Also is everybody doing the loops or would that make it harder to return to stock in case of warranty issues down the road (tranny).:confused:

If I did the one-pc shaft, I would do the loops at the same time.


I thought all the '05 up Mustangs had a 2 pc driveshaft?:confused:

I got the package deal from EVO, driveshaft and loop:D

I got the package deal from EVO, driveshaft and loop:D

Is it listed as a package on their site?

I don't believe so but when I called them to order other goodies Fred at EVO sold me DS and loop as well, got a better deal when I bought both together.

I was thinking I'd do the loops at the same time but I did'nt know if I'd have to remove them if I went in for warranty work. Can they stay with the 2 piece? As far as the 05gt I don't know, I'm going to go out there right now and look. i just know I don't feel something is moving back there like I do the Shelby.

If I did the one-pc shaft, I would do the loops at the same time.


I thought all the '05 up Mustangs had a 2 pc driveshaft?:confused:

just crawled under mine and it does....does this mean my loose feeling is not the drive shaft? It just seems something back there is torqing when I start off especially uphill which my driveway is.:confused:

I believe this twisting feel you are experencing is more suspension related .
There is more torque produced with he 5.4 engine than the 4.6 . This in turn would apply more forces on both the the drive train and the suspension.
The OEM UCA and LCA's use rubber mounted attaching points that allow for some movement . This could be the twisting you are feeling especially when going up hill where there would be more forces at work on the UCA . This could allow the differential to move slightly( one of the causes of wheel hop.)

The new urethane type suspension pieces would restrict this movement thus would apply the power more directly to the wheels without that twisting feel.

Unless something is loose I don't think the DS would cause this problem.That said ,there are also forces at work in the center pivot frame mount of the DS .
I believe there is a natural tendency for the DS to want to push up towards the DS tunnel at this point when power is applied This in turn will rob some power compared to a straight one piece DS. When extreme amounts of power or speed is applied the risk of failure at this point is greatly increased. I believe that is why Ford has a 155mph limit built into the computer and why the new TVS with the Ford tune still has the 155mph limit.

The main reason Ford put the 2 pc DS in these cars is for safety during a rear end crash. They found that a one piece DS would more likely rupture the gas tank than a 2 pc DS in this situation.

Front and rear loops.

Another one for you.

[QUOTE=Svtbird91;
The main reason Ford put the 2 pc DS in these cars is for safety during a rear end crash. They found that a one piece DS would more likely rupture the gas tank than a 2 pc DS in this situation.[/QUOTE]

Thanks Svtbird91. I was wondering why Ford utilized a two piece DS.

Yes, thank you svtbird. So if I replace the uca & lca with the urethane it should go away. Where should I get those and if I decide to lower the car would they have to be changed?:)

Yes, thank you svtbird. So if I replace the uca & lca with the urethane it should go away. Where should I get those and if I decide to lower the car would they have to be changed?:)

There are a few good companys out there . Call Fred @ Evolution performance
http://www.evoperform.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_15&products_id=233

No ,you wouldn't have to change them. Just make sure that the UCA (upper) is the adjustable type so when you do lower the car you will be able to use it to adjust the pinion angle.

There are a few good companys out there . Call Fred @ Evolution performance
http://www.evoperform.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_15&products_id=233

No ,you wouldn't have to change them. Just make sure that the UCA (upper) is the adjustable type so when you do lower the car you will be able to use it to adjust the pinion angle.

...and relocation brackets for the LCAs

...and relocation brackets for the LCAs

He can add them later when he lowers the car.I don't think he plans to do that for a while.

Ohhh so the relocation brackets that I saw on the Steeda site are for lowering the car and not neccessary if keeping the stock ride? I feel like such a newbie and here I am a junior member.:D

I have the 1-pc....adj UCA....BMR LCA and the car is lowered with FRPP lowering springs. I have removed my relocation brackets and everything is hunky-dory. I may need them with bigger tires.

bj

BJ, That sounds like what I want...can you steer me in the right direction for what to buy? I might as well lower it and do all the stuff at the same time. Anyone else with inputs?

They need a lightbulb emotioncon or whatever it's called around here!:rolleyes:

Of course if I could just do the adj. UCA and BMR LCA to get rid of my torquing issue I might hold off on the springs....decisions, decisions????? I do feel like it has a high center of gravity and too much roll.

Front and rear loops.

What are the loops for?

What are the loops for?

Safety. In case you bust the DS so it doesn't fly around tearing up the car and the people inside.

Safety. In case you bust the DS so it doesn't fly around tearing up the car and the people inside.

Gotcha...thanks!

BJ, That sounds like what I want...can you steer me in the right direction for what to buy? I might as well lower it and do all the stuff at the same time. Anyone else with inputs?

They need a lightbulb emotioncon or whatever it's called around here!:rolleyes:

Of course if I could just do the adj. UCA and BMR LCA to get rid of my torquing issue I might hold off on the springs....decisions, decisions????? I do feel like it has a high center of gravity and too much roll.

Call Fred at Evolution Performance. www.evoperform.com Tell him BJ sent you.