Anyone used slicks on there car yet at the track? Looking into getting some for the next season and I'm not sure were to start.

Anyone used slicks on there car yet at the track? Looking into getting some for the next season and I'm not sure were to start.

Nitto 555R. Comes in your size.

Alternately, the BFG drag2 is stickier and won't last nearly as long, but they'll hook!

The Nitto is the better of the two if you're going to drive on them. Particularly if it ever rains.

MT has one for it now, too....but it's pricey.


bj

Nitto 555R. Comes in your size.

Alternately, the BFG drag2 is stickier and won't last nearly as long, but they'll hook!

The Nitto is the better of the two if you're going to drive on them. Particularly if it ever rains.

MT has one for it now, too....but it's pricey.


bj



He's right.Nitto is the way to go.555r for just the rear try 305 45 18.

Yeah, not looking to get anything to drive on the streets. Just something I can swap out at the track. Thanks for the help guys.

Great so is it confirmed that the nitto 305 will fit without rubbing? that is what I want to get but was not positive it was not gonna rub anywhere.

I thought that the Nitto 315s would fit the rear too..

You say they're better in th rain than the BFGs? I'm looking to replace the Goodyears with something I can drive with every day - rain or shine.

TD

Is it confirmed that the nitto 555r 315 will fit??? nitto only makes those for 17" wheels tho. I may get some different wheels later so that is some info I am interested in, but i doubt i will go to a 17" wheel. Note that nitto's website does not recommend anything wider than a 305/45r18 on the 9-1/2" wheel, but i think that would be a huge improvement to the stock tires.

as far as the rain issue, i have nitto 555 245's on 17" wheels on my other 500+ rwhp mustang, and it does ok in the rain, but i would not wanna drive far at highway speeds with them in a steady downpour. I have no experience w/ the BFG's, but if vnmous1 says do not use in the rain, i would take his word for it. also, do NOT use M&H racemasters in the rain, it can swap ends at 40mph at steady cruise. (been there done that, no damage luckily)

Bought a set of Nitto 285/35ZR/18 to use on a set of stock wheels. Worked well in the rain at highway speeds as that is what it did all the way to the track. Hooked real well at the strip. Went this size as was told that any thing over a 295 would rub and a 315 was too big for the rim, causing it to have to be widened. Hope this helps just my 2 cents worth Take care M'nut

Has anyone used a set of Nitto NT-01 Road Race Tires, I would like to get a set of these to use when running around the Nashville Super speedway.

I thought that the Nitto 315s would fit the rear too..

You say they're better in th rain than the BFGs? I'm looking to replace the Goodyears with something I can drive with every day - rain or shine.

TD

Not on your stock wheels.

As far as rain....my BFG KDWs are outstanding in rain. There are no cuts/siping in the lugs/tread of the tires, BUT the grooves are big enough to lose a cat in. The DRs are another story. Far fewer channels for the sake of traction. No channels=hydroplaning. On ANY tire.




bj

As far as rain....my BFG KDWs are outstanding in rain.

I agree. The KDWs are a great everyday tire. They should have come stock on the car.

Not concerned with everyday driving with these tires, they would be a second set just for the track with different wheels as well.

Not concerned with everyday driving with these tires, they would be a second set just for the track with different wheels as well.

Sorry. Should have quoted TrickyDick. He was looking for a replacement for the stock tires. My bad.

Thanks for the info

So BFG KDW = good but Drag Radials = bad
Nittos - stick with 295 or smaller 555's are good in rain

Which is the better tire at the track?

Justin at VMP posted a set of midded rims widened to (I think) 11.5 inches..

Would like to hear more from him on that...

TD

Thanks for the info

So BFG KDW = good but Drag Radials = bad
Nittos - stick with 295 or smaller 555's are good in rain

Which is the better tire at the track?

Justin at VMP posted a set of midded rims widened to (I think) 11.5 inches..

Would like to hear more from him on that...

TDWell, they will never get an 11.5" wheel under the car without serious modifications. I ran 18x10's on my previous 2005 Mustang GT and a 285 width tire is all I could manage without rubbing on the inner wheelwell/shock or outer fender. Unless the Shelby has different dimensions (which I am pretty sure they do not) I doubt a 315 on any wheels is going to fit unless it sticks out of the fender area. I hope someone proves me wrong.

So in summary then -

everday driver BFG KDW are good rain or shine. DRs track use only

Nitto 555s also good - preferred by some for rain.

size some say 295 max width, others say 305.

NO word on Justin's modified (this time I spelled it right!) rims yet...

TD

i used my nitto dr for everyday for almost 20k miles that was in las vegas where it doesnt rain much but acutally worked alot better in the rain than my stock tires. If you heat them up they hook fairly well.

Personally, I love the Nitto 555r 305/45/18s for the rear. I haven't had problems with the rain, and they do hook pretty well at the track. But I usually run a set of Welds at the track with Mickey Thompson slicks.

BLUE 07--when you put them on please post a pix--would like to see the slicks up close and how they look in the wheel well...

Options are getting more and more it seams. If you are not looking to run them on the stock rims then you have many options for track tires depending on the rims you go with. I currently have ET Streets on 95 Cobra R spin offs but they are only 26" tall and I need a taller tire with my power now. These are on an 8" rim and they do a nice job but I am looking at a 15" rim and then 325/50/15 for my next set. The big issue right now id if i will have to change out my springs because of a 28" tall tire since I lowered the car and i don't want to do this just to go race.....maybe for a shot at my best time but not just to have fun.

I also am trying to decide if i want a real slick so i can hook as best I am capable or the ET Street Radials so i could play in the street car classes when i get my roll bar which is what I am leaning towards right now.

I am supposed to go May 9th to the track for the first time this year but i may be running on my street tires - that would be entertaining with 750+ rwhp.

Lots of choices Iceman... makes it hard because best time at the strip means different components than enjoying the car on the street.

Glad it's you making the choices not me. I'd go nuts just trying to figure it all out. :ack: :ack:

Anyone used slicks on there car yet at the track? Looking into getting some for the next season and I'm not sure were to start.


Looks like jayiii is the only one that has any insight on this topic. I am looking for slicks also. To me, it looks like the minimum wheel diameter is gonna be 16 inches. I am also betting that a 10 inch width, with proper back space will fit. Not sure if an aftermarket wheel will have the right combo of diameter and width and backspace. This weekend I will do some more measuring. I think I can figure it out. I am looking into centerline and weld. Hoosier makes a 28x10x16 slick that ought to grab waaaayy better than a et street in a 17 inch profile. Damn sure better than a drag radial. My shelby is bone stock, and I am dying to get a timeslip on slicks.

looks like as close as we can get in a 16 inch rim, will be a 16x8. But that will still hold a 28x10 slick. still looking.

I have CCW 9.25x16 w/ 26-11.50 MT ET Streets left over from my 03 Cobra they do stick out a little but hook real good. I'm sure CCW makes them with the correct offset but I agree if you do not want to modify the sway bar 16 inch wheels are the minimum.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg280/sal74pics/th_sony001.jpg (http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg280/sal74pics/sony001.jpg)
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg280/sal74pics/th_sony002.jpg (http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg280/sal74pics/sony002.jpg)

I have a pair of 15x10 prostars on a lincoln mk7 that i test fitted on the car, and the rear calipers were the first problem I ran into. 5.5 backspace I think would work great, but not positive. You gotta link to ccw?

I called ccw. They said they could grind up a set of classics in a 16x10 with the correct offset, and grind up a set of 17x4 for the front that WOULD clear the brakes. Throw on a set of hoosier slicks and some 17 inch bias ply skinnies for the front for, I think, 2450.

I ordered a set that will be here thursday.

I ordered a set that will be here thursday.

Sweet! Post pics when you get them installed! Sorry, been away for awhile and kinda lost track of the thread...

I have not been to the track much this season due to time constraints but I am now running a ET Drag. 28x10.5x15 on a 15" Bogart. Minor sway bar relo required for the 15" rim. I had been running them at 20PSI and not hooking too good when i pout the rpm's over about 3500 and bogging below that. I dropped the pressure to 17 PSI and found it much better (I am a vert though too). I was bogging a little the last time I went and easing off the line to 1.83 and 1.72 60' times respectively on my 1st 2 runs. The temps were ideal and I ran 11.1x at 134.xx and 11.03 at 135.58. My 1/8th mph was better on the first run by 3 mph. 105 to 102 respectively but my 2nd run picked up more in the back and had a better time all the way down the track.

I decided to go for broke - dropped the pressure to 15 psi and really heated them up. Side stepped the clutch at 5K ropm and was put back in the seat hard for a breif second then Bang, Pop & Grind. twisted and snapped the drivers side axel. I also cracked the Detroit true Track dif. but it looks like it held up well enough to still function. The only thing holding the wheel on was the brake so i was towed home and the rear is town apart now and I am looking for better axels and having the axel tubes welded while looking to strengthen with in a budget.

I like the slicks a lot - but be aware if you don't plan to slip the clutch better have things build up pretty good.

I have not been to the track much this season due to time constraints but I am now running a ET Drag. 28x10.5x15 on a 15" Bogart. Minor sway bar relo required for the 15" rim. I had been running them at 20PSI and not hooking too good when i pout the rpm's over about 3500 and bogging below that. I dropped the pressure to 17 PSI and found it much better (I am a vert though too). I was bogging a little the last time I went and easing off the line to 1.83 and 1.72 60' times respectively on my 1st 2 runs. The temps were ideal and I ran 11.1x at 134.xx and 11.03 at 135.58. My 1/8th mph was better on the first run by 3 mph. 105 to 102 respectively but my 2nd run picked up more in the back and had a better time all the way down the track.

I decided to go for broke - dropped the pressure to 15 psi and really heated them up. Side stepped the clutch at 5K ropm and was put back in the seat hard for a breif second then Bang, Pop & Grind. twisted and snapped the drivers side axel. I also cracked the Detroit true Track dif. but it looks like it held up well enough to still function. The only thing holding the wheel on was the brake so i was towed home and the rear is town apart now and I am looking for better axels and having the axel tubes welded while looking to strengthen with in a budget.

I like the slicks a lot - but be aware if you don't plan to slip the clutch better have things build up pretty good.


Now, my junk is bone stock. do you really think it could snap a axel? I just dont see that, this isnt a chevorlet. lol. I just hope I dont bog it too badly.

pics

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b37/1idjak/img1223655198198.jpg

I work for a dealership and we just got our 2008 Shelby GT 500 KR !!!! We are getting five!!! !!!If anyone wants any information on it you can send me an email at christinad04@yahoo.com it is Gorgeous!!!!!

stop fagging up the thread

Hi,
I have a 28x13.5x16 Hoosier's from that I used with my M3 Turbo.
Do you think it'll fit to GT500. I have a stock suspension now, but thinking of Eibach Pro S.
What rims tu use with it?

I doubt it. Thats a big tire. With the stock sway bar mounting points, a porperly built 16 x 10 rim needs to be pushed out away from that mount, and thats gonna bring a tire that size right into the fender. If you ditch the stock sway bar mount so you can pull that rim in under the car, then maby, but I doubt anyone with a street/strip car has tried it yet. I'll bet some folks with more race oriented cars have done it, but I dont know who.

pics

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b37/1idjak/img1223655198198.jpg


Car looks SICK like that!!!! Big and littles...very nice.

I like the slicks a lot - but be aware if you don't plan to slip the clutch better have things build up pretty good.

ANd here I thought the driveshaft was suposed to be the weakest link...


TD

ANd here I thought the driveshaft was suposed to be the weakest link...


TD

I'm sure your right about that.

ANd here I thought the driveshaft was suposed to be the weakest link...


TD

First thing I broke was the rearend! Spider Gears were destroyed.

First thing I broke was the rearend! Spider Gears were destroyed.

Didn't remember you tellin us you broke it! How'd that happen? What did you replace it with?

BTW- I've heard of several rear-ends breaking, but not heard of a single DS failure yet.

TD

I twisted and snapped my drivers side axle. In doing so i cracked the housing on my Detroit True-Trac but the insides all worked still and I was able to drive the car (as much as possible with a wheel being held on by a brake) off the truck and onto the lift at the shop.....althought the grinding was awful from the un even break in the axle. I put another true-trac in since it held up to the power well (703 torque and 784 rwhp on a 5K dump with 28x10.5 slicks on a 15" bogart). I kept the 8.8 for now but put in Moser axles and had to replace the carrier bearings as the driver side ones were gone and the passenger side showed some signs of damage. The nice thing with this set up is it fits the ABS system so it is like stock again....I put on a FRPP axle girdle for added support and am having the tubes welded and won't be dumping it at 5K anymore with 15PS and the slicks well heated. I'll go back to skipping the clutch but wanted to try being really aggressive as the conditions were good and i was running well - I had visions of a sub 10.5 time in my vert.

Can someone tell me what I can do to keep the low pressure sensor (tire) from mucking up the info box when I change wheels at the track. Is there a fix or bypass that would allow for an alert when the front tires might be low? Or can I change the front tires also, and still keep the tire sensor fault from showing with the extra set of wheels on?

http://www.steeda.com/products/tire_pressure_programming_tool.php I think that will do what you want.