I read in a magazine about the Steeda Adj Street Upper Control Arm which is suppose to stop the wheel hop. Before I go to the strip with the car I will have it on mine. Check it out on the website.

http://www.steeda.com/products/adjustable_street_upper_control_arm.php

If anyone has installed this please let us know the results.

Some are talking about both upper and lower control arms replaced ....Have you talked to anyone that has this done , did it reduce the wheel hop or is it gone completly........I'm looking at doing this to mine this spring......bmr also has a fix ,which one would you recommend?

BMR? What/who is that?

BMR? What/who is that?

Check out this url , http://www.lmperformance.com/c/1/73/Mustang%202005-2007%20V8.html

they have performence packages ,for Mustangs
they have upper and lower control arms replacements.....

I went to the website and saw what they want to replace...which I am sure will help or fix but this car is not going to be at the drag strip that much. At least twice while I own it and than for only a couple of runs each time. I will not haze the tires while holding the brakes and I am not putting line lock on this beast like my old mustang. I am hoping the Steeda part will do the trick at least that is what the steeda rep told me. I talked to a performance shop that will be doing my gears, the guy was super nice and came highly recommended from a couple of guys that are serious drag racers. (There car is in the high 8's and low 9's) He told me that wheel hop can be fixed if you through enough money at it. Well I don't want to rebuild my hole suspension just to launch so I will start with the Steeda part, it has to help and for only $ 175.00 your not out much. With Steeda selling the part and claiming it works I would have to think it does or they would get flamed on message boards about it and so far can't find anything negative...or anyone that has used it. When my gears go in I will have that installed at the same time. Unless someone beats me to it and says it did nothing.

busababy ordered the adjustable upper-3-link-kit today and for the price I feel we can't go wrong. Will let you know of my opinion after the install, weather and time permitting. May be a few weeks as I would like to do an oil change and install at the same time and use a clients lift.

Just got off the phone with a rep from Steeda and was told that inorder to eliminate wheel hop the upper link kit should be used in conjunction with their billet rear trailing arms. Installing just the upper will only reduce and not eliminate wheel hop. I decided to go with both. Here are the billet rear trailing arms.

http://www.steeda.com/products/billet_rear_trailing_arms.php
http://www.steeda.com/products/suspension_control_arms.php

Just got off the phone with a rep from Steeda and was told that inorder to eliminate wheel hop the upper link kit should be used in conjunction with their billet rear trailing arms. Installing just the upper will only reduce and not eliminate wheel hop. I decided to go with both. Here are the billet rear trailing arms.

http://www.steeda.com/products/billet_rear_trailing_arms.php
http://www.steeda.com/products/suspension_control_arms.php

Hmm we used to call those traction bars

Hmm we used to call those traction bars

Yes I remember that as well but I am on a mission to rid this evil hop. Was so bad the other day I thought my SHAKER 1000 trunk speaker broke loose. I have also experienced wheel hop so bad the rear seat deck lid sounded as though is was ready to self eject. If anyone says they are not experiencing this dilema then they are not getting on it HARD ENOUGH! As 07 once said bring it to my house. Wheel hop is a matter of life with these vehicles till addressed and that is exactly what I intend to do.;) Can't go to the next level till this demon is put down.:D

Very nice Shelby SVT, I wished you were my neighbor we could have Shelby Project weekends. So if I understand you need 2 parts to make this work. When I am getting my gears put in I am going to work on the suspension at the same time, because if it is this bad with stock gears 3.73 or 4.11 are going to really suck... With the tune and CAI I can't hammer it at all in 1st, I have to wait till in 2nd before I plant it to the floor and even then depending on the surface I can still breaking them loose which sounds impressive but the reality of it is hopping is going to break something and even though I would tell the dealer " Gee I don't know what happen I was driving along and hear a clunk" I would rather it not break. So what was the total price for all this so I know how deep I need to dig :) Also keep this thread updated with your results and what it takes to put these on. The guy that is going to do my gears of course could do it but if something I could do that would be even better.

busababy I am going to attempt to install these myself as I was under the car the other day and from what I can tell the trailing arm require removal of the E brake cable as it snakes through it. So jack stands, wheel chocks and a good floor jack from what I can tell. will know more once I receive the parts and install instructions. The price on the adjustable control arm is $180 but you can go cheaper if go go with a fixed version for $125. The lower trailing arms vary as well from $210 to $390. I am going with the billet Ford stamped version for $380. Will keep you posted on the install as well as results. The reps at Steeda insist this will do the trick, and that if not addressed, wheel hop will only get worse with time as the rubber busings degrade. The urethane bushings coupled with a stronger trailing arm are the fix.

There are great instructions for the LCA's installation on the Roush perfomance site. I have the billet lowers coming too. Should be here next week. I went to Ford and ordered the one time use bolts and nuts. I don't think Steeda furnishes them.

Sounds good guys...please keep me up to date on the results and the install. I met another shelby owner today funny thing he lives 5 miles away got his in August (black/white stripe) not a member of boards. I went by and saw his car and he is going to start doing some mods on his. He has changed the exhaust and has ordered 4.30 gears. He is also going with a taller tire. Intake and computer is next on his list. And than somewhere in all this is the control arms. So enough of us should have them to tell if they work :)

I think this is going to be my first modification, I get some crazy wheel hop when it is below 40* out, little wheel hop below 50, and I didn't really experience much at 70*. I was even getting wheel hop AT 70 MPH which is really weird, also when I hit third gear, so I will need these soon.

There are great instructions for the LCA's installation on the Roush perfomance site. I have the billet lowers coming too. Should be here next week. I went to Ford and ordered the one time use bolts and nuts. I don't think Steeda furnishes them.

txlaw read the Roush and Steeda install instructions and there is a conflict on installation. Roush calls for discarding the front and rear nuts and bolts as Steeda does not. The only reason I can see discarding these is if you do not reapply blue locktite, something I will do even though Steeda's instructions do not call for this. The Roush instructions even show the bolts being reinstalled as the locktite is worn off the bolts being installed. Also Roush calls for the vehicle to be placed on jack stands that are placed under the chasis with no load on the suspension, where as Steeda calls for the suspension to be loaded (wheels in contact with the surface). Steeda also called for grease to be applied to the outside edges of the bushings or they will sqeak. Roush did give better instructions for removal of the E brake cable and forward LCA bolts. I would go with the install instructions of the manufacturer although I am quite confused as to the different methods of the suspension being either under a load or not. Anyone have any thoughts on this?:confused:

Since I don't have experience with either one I would have to say this. Steeda was the first to come up with them and they have them I am sure on there Q series cars. With that said the instructions that come with them would be the way I would go. Of course while doing it if you see that maybe grease should be applied somewhere or loctite than it can't hurt to do what you think. If your going to do this yourself and you have the vacation or sick time :) I would do it during the week so if your into it and something does not make sense I would pick up the cordless phone and make a call to them. They could than transfer you to an installer and tell you what is up...especially if the person has done a few of them he would be worth his weight in gold having him on the phone for a couple questions. He is getting paid to help and honestly if nobody called to get technical help than they would do away with that position so I say give them a call help you out and help him keep his job. Than tell us what is going on... being the first makes you once your done the teacher...so take good notes and explain to us young grasshoppers :)

Since I don't have experience with either one I would have to say this. Steeda was the first to come up with them and they have them I am sure on there Q series cars. With that said the instructions that come with them would be the way I would go. Of course while doing it if you see that maybe grease should be applied somewhere or loctite than it can't hurt to do what you think. If your going to do this yourself and you have the vacation or sick time :) I would do it during the week so if your into it and something does not make sense I would pick up the cordless phone and make a call to them. They could than transfer you to an installer and tell you what is up...especially if the person has done a few of them he would be worth his weight in gold having him on the phone for a couple questions. He is getting paid to help and honestly if nobody called to get technical help than they would do away with that position so I say give them a call help you out and help him keep his job. Than tell us what is going on... being the first makes you once your done the teacher...so take good notes and explain to us young grasshoppers :)

The Steeda PRO adjustable UCA is the one to use. The NVH is a tad more than the regular version, but this is the one to get. It will not necessarily rid your car of wheel hop but it will help.

The Steeda billet LCAs are not as robust as the BMRs (nor do I think they look as good). The BMRs are some sturdy mothers. They have a higher quality bushing and have grease nipples installed on both ends. I have the BMRs on my GT500 and between the two items, the hop went away (at least it did at these temps).

I have also changed my panhard rod to an adjustable and replaced the brace as well.

Take a look at Evolutions kit. It's pieced together, but the bulk of the stuff is Steeda. They used the BMR lowers for a reason.


bj

The Steeda PRO adjustable UCA is the one to use. The NVH is a tad more than the regular version, but this is the one to get. It will not necessarily rid your car of wheel hop but it will help.

The Steeda billet LCAs are not as robust as the BMRs (nor do I think they look as good). The BMRs are some sturdy mothers. They have a higher quality bushing and have grease nipples installed on both ends. I have the BMRs on my GT500 and between the two items, the hop went away (at least it did at these temps).

I have also changed my panhard rod to an adjustable and replaced the brace as well.

Take a look at Evolutions kit. It's pieced together, but the bulk of the stuff is Steeda. They used the BMR lowers for a reason.


bj

VNIMOUS1 I like the idea of having a grease fitting on the bushing ends to address stress and squeak issues on the LCA. I also noticed on the BMR LCA there was no cut out to snake the E brake cable. Did you have to route the cable above or below the LCA? Thanks for the info as I am going to return my Steeda LCA for the BMR and the Steeda street LCA for the competition version.;)

Good info...the power of the web is great...well I will hold off on suspension parts until all the dust clears. Please keep us up to date on the install and if you could ShelbySVT or vnmous1 the part numbers that I (we) need to order.

After looking over your list vnmous1 you have done some serious mods...I like it :)

9Good info...the power of the web is great...well I will hold off on suspension parts until all the dust clears. Please keep us up to date on the install and if you could ShelbySVT or vnmous1 the part numbers that I (we) need to order.

After looking over your list vnmous1 you have done some serious mods...I like it :)

busababy you can order the Evolution ultimate performance suspension kit for $999 which includes a few items that may be overkill such as the relocation brackets for the LCA and 3 point frame rails. I am thinking of ordering individual parts and they are as follows. BMR LCA part #TCA027 $230, Steeda UCA part # 555-4106 $280, Steeda panhard bar part #555-2551 $160 and the Steeda panhard bar brace part # 555-2555 $80. I believe vnmous1 ordered the full suspension kit from Evolution. Vnmous1 give us your opinion as to the additional installs with this kit if that is how you ordered. Like your choice in gear set as well. I suggest you look at the Evolution site as he stated in his post as it is mostly Steeda parts. BMR's LCA definitely looks a little beefier as vnmous1 has stated and I like the look as well. Vnmous1 thanks for the input.;)

9

busababy you can order the Evolution ultimate performance suspension kit for $999 which includes a few items that may be overkill such as the relocation brackets for the LCA and 3 point frame rails. I am thinking of ordering individual parts and they are as follows. BMR LCA part #TCA027 $230, Steeda UCA part # 555-4106 $280, Steeda panhard bar part #555-2551 $160 and the Steeda panhard bar brace part # 555-2555 $80. I believe vnmous1 ordered the full suspension kit from Evolution. Vnmous1 give us your opinion as to the additional installs with this kit if that is how you ordered. Like your choice in gear set as well. I suggest you look at the Evolution site as he stated in his post as it is mostly Steeda parts. BMR's LCA definitely looks a little beefier as vnmous1 has stated and I like the look as well. Vnmous1 thanks for the input.;)

No, there is no hole for the brake cable. I'm going to tap a hole in the bottom of the BMRs and install a small "hook" as that's exactly where the stock one was and it lines up with the metal sleeve on the cable. In the meantime...black wireties. In fact, that's what they say to do. These things are tough as freakin nails. There is NO squirreliness in the rear anymore. Whether vert or coupe, GT500s always felt a little "loose" both front and rear. It still feels a little loose in the front, but with these mods, it is stable, planted and you won't believe the difference. I was going to piece it together, to, but decided to do it all. The frame rails really do make a difference. You can feel the torqueing difference.

All the parts are Steeda except the LCAs. You'll be stunned when you see the bushings in the stock pieces. They're junk and absolutely not capable of handling this level of power and torque. That's why they'd used quad shocks in the past-to make up for the flaws in design. I'd rather have paid more and had this stuff come stock....but I'd rather have had factory painted stripes, too. In the end, I've painted the stripes and fixed the suspension.

bj

No, there is no hole for the brake cable. I'm going to tap a hole in the bottom of the BMRs and install a small "hook" as that's exactly where the stock one was and it lines up with the metal sleeve on the cable. In the meantime...black wireties. In fact, that's what they say to do. These things are tough as freakin nails. There is NO squirreliness in the rear anymore. Whether vert or coupe, GT500s always felt a little "loose" both front and rear. It still feels a little loose in the front, but with these mods, it is stable, planted and you won't believe the difference. I was going to piece it together, to, but decided to do it all. The frame rails really do make a difference. You can feel the torqueing difference.

All the parts are Steeda except the LCAs. You'll be stunned when you see the bushings in the stock pieces. They're junk and absolutely not capable of handling this level of power and torque. That's why they'd used quad shocks in the past-to make up for the flaws in design. I'd rather have paid more and had this stuff come stock....but I'd rather have had factory painted stripes, too. In the end, I've painted the stripes and fixed the suspension.

bj

After reading VNMOUS1's post and reviewing the Evolution site I am sold. Received the suspension package from Evolution and the LCA's are awsome. Much beefier than any I have seen and real quality. The overall package from Evolution is cheaper than if parts are purchased individually from Steeda and BMR. Ordered on Monday and received the package on Tuesday. He also convinced me to try out his tune which I will after installation of the suspension and test run on my current tune as to get a good comparison.

Once you guys figure this out I will get started.
The Evolution site has good info on it.
I may call and talk to them next week.

Once you guys figure this out I will get started.
The Evolution site has good info on it.
I may call and talk to them next week.

Nothing to figure out. The Evolution ultimate suspension is the way to go. Just installed the 3 point brace and eyed the rest of the installation. Would have done more but rain and snow starting to happen and wanted to get my baby safe in bed. Piece of cake except for the UCA. One brakcet on the fuel tank has to be undone and the rear seat has to come out to get to the last bolt. A four post lift is a must, although if you don't mind working on you back, jack stands and a good floor jack are a possibility. Next on the list gears, pulley and retune.;)

Can't wait to hear if the wheel hop issue goes away. I order my gears this week from Late Model Restoration. I went with 3.73. For suspension my plans are to just buy the LCA and the steeda adjustable not the whole kit. Worst case if it does not work I just buy the rest of the parts to finish it but according to Steeda I should be good to go, mine will only see the drag strip once maybe twice in its life while I own it and I will not be doing any 4000 rpm launches just to shave a few tenths so hopefully I will be okay. Please keep us up to date. Curious about the tune also :)

Almost forgot...how about some pictures of it underneath :)

Can't wait to hear if the wheel hop issue goes away. I order my gears this week from Late Model Restoration. I went with 3.73. For suspension my plans are to just buy the LCA and the steeda adjustable not the whole kit. Worst case if it does not work I just buy the rest of the parts to finish it but according to Steeda I should be good to go, mine will only see the drag strip once maybe twice in its life while I own it and I will not be doing any 4000 rpm launches just to shave a few tenths so hopefully I will be okay. Please keep us up to date. Curious about the tune also :)

Almost forgot...how about some pictures of it underneath :)

busababy whether you go for the whole enchalata or not take a look at the BMR LCA's as opposed the the Steeda's. A BIG difference over all! Check it out, VNMOUS1 was right on. He also posted pics on mustangsunleashed under mods. Worth a look.:)

Just for your info its spelled enchilada, not that its important or anything

Just for your info its spelled enchilada, not that its important or anything

Since when is spelling an issue. I could find many a spelling error here or is it hear is it to or two. I think you get the point.:D :D

I forgot that part I will not use the Steeda for LCA I like the part that they have a grease fitting. I figure I will get my gears in than do the suspension, trying to get one of my sport bikes ready for spring so throwing money sadly in 2 directions... if I could focus on just the Shelby I would be done :) You would think motorcycle parts would be affordable but when it comes to speed no matter what you have speed is expensive :)

I forgot that part I will not use the Steeda for LCA I like the part that they have a grease fitting. I figure I will get my gears in than do the suspension, trying to get one of my sport bikes ready for spring so throwing money sadly in 2 directions... if I could focus on just the Shelby I would be done :) You would think motorcycle parts would be affordable but when it comes to speed no matter what you have speed is expensive :)

Although I did not get to put many miles on her yesterday due to rain and snow on its way, for the little I did do I definitely felt a difference the three point frame rails made in stiffening up the rear. An easy install and the only parts I feel that were eliminated that had some application were the wiper shields by the fuel tank. I believe these are to protect the fuel tank from stones that may be kicked up and possible wind deflection. I will go with eliminating these as the results are worth it.:)

Hey Guys,
I've only had my Shelby about a week now and experienced some sort of crazy nasty wheel hop for the first time a few days ago. :( It sucked. I've been reading this entire thread and didn't see any mention of the

Roush WHEEL HOP REDUCTION KIT - 401788

Here is the spiel that they give on their website:

"Designed specifically to reduce rear wheel hop in drag racing or low
traction conditions. This ROUSH engineered kit provides excellent
track performance, yet works well on street applications without the
noise, vibration and durability concerns associated with the other kits
on the market. Bracket and arm are made of high strength steel."

Just curious, what do you guys think about it? I can get it here in Alberta, Canada in CAD for about $300. If it does what is says it's supposed to, it sounds like a deal, any opinions?
Thanks, looking for any help as I do not want to do the hop again...

My opinion, I like Roush stuff! And it does sound like a good price. Do you know what it includes? I ask because the Roush trailing arms that I wanted were over $300.

My opinion, I like Roush stuff! And it does sound like a good price. Do you know what it includes? I ask because the Roush trailing arms that I wanted were over $300.

Hey there Oldimp...
As far as I know, it's just some sort of upper bracket. I don't think that it includes anything else.
But if it works, what the heck, give it a go. I think that I will do some more research first. If I don't see anything bad about it, I'll probably end up getting them.
The guy I spoke to at the Ford/Roush dealer here in Alberta also told me that I should upgrade my lower control arms while I was at it. They are another 400$.
I know, I know, buy one part then they get you to buy more. I think though that combination will help a huge amount with all the flex in the back end.
My plan after that is to go with the FordRacingPerformanceParts Handling package for the GT500, which they will be coming out with in the next month or two as well.
I will keep everyone posted on what I end up doing.

The Ford Racing stuff is very appealing to me also. Yes the Roush lower control arms (trailing arms or whatever) that I was looking at are $400 and their wheel hop kit is another $300. If I get to do these mods at all, it won't be very soon, so I will be looking at Ford Racing and Steeda, too.

Keep us posted and best of luck!

According to folks at Steeda the upgrade of the UCA and LCA'S should eliminate the wheel hop. There are several companies offering these products and I have chosen Evolution performance which is currently producing their own LCA and using BMR's adjustable UCA. The key seems to be in the bushings. I installed the LCA's but have not had a chance to install the UCA as of yet. Several folks on this site have done the same but no verdict seems to be in as of yet. Once the weather warms up and these tires become a little more user friendly I am sure you will hear. Nothing wrong with Roush or Ford Racing but I am very happy with Evolutions LCA and BMR'S UCA, real quality.

According to folks at Steeda the upgrade of the UCA and LCA'S should eliminate the wheel hop. There are several companies offering offering these products and I have chosed Evolution performance which is currently producing their own LCA and using BMR's adjustable UCA. The key seems to be in the bushings. I installed the LCA's but have not had a chance to install the UCA as of yet. Several folks on this site have done the same but no verdict seems to be in as of yet. Once the weather warms up and these tires become a little more user friendly I am sure you will hear. Nothing wrong with Roush or Ford Racing but I am very happy with Evolutions LCA and BMR'S UCA, real quality.


My wheel hop is gone.I have replaced several parts that I have already posted but I used BMR UCA and Evolution LCA with urethane bushings.I am very happy with my decision.

My wheel hop is gone.I have replaced several parts that I have already posted but I used BMR UCA and Evolution LCA with urethane bushings.I am very happy with my decision.

07 SHELBY,

Do you have photo of what that Evo LCA looked like? They don't have one on their website that I could find. I was just wondering how different it was from the Roush setup.
Thanks

07 SHELBY,

Do you have photo of what that Evo LCA looked like? They don't have one on their website that I could find. I was just wondering how different it was from the Roush setup.
Thanks


They are already posted here in 1 of these threads.

They are already posted here in 1 of these threads.

07 I believe Evolution has changed the LCA finish since your installation. Your's have the polished billet appearance as mine are now a black finish, similar to the BMR LCA, and Evolution Performance is engraved on the center portion of the LCA.

07 SHELBY,

Do you have photo of what that Evo LCA looked like? They don't have one on their website that I could find. I was just wondering how different it was from the Roush setup.
Thanks



Here are the pictures.Shelbysvt says evo has changed them though.Post #6



http://www.fordgt500.com/forums/showthread.php?t=703&highlight=evolution+lower+control+arms

Here are the pictures.Shelbysvt says evo has changed them though.Post #6



http://www.fordgt500.com/forums/showthread.php?t=703&highlight=evolution+lower+control+arms

Thanks, they look awesome. I like the grease nipple feature, the Roush one doesn't have that one. I also like the finish of the ones that you have.
If you don't mind me asking, what are they asking for that?

Thanks, they look awesome. I like the grease nipple feature, the Roush one doesn't have that one. I also like the finish of the ones that you have.
If you don't mind me asking, what are they asking for that?



I didn't buy them individually.It is part of the ultimate suspension package from evolution performance.It is listed on their web site.I am very happy with there products,I think they are 1st rate.My Shelby doesn't hop but shoots like a rocket now and is a little scary sometimes,but I also have more HP.I hope this helps.

Took the car out today and launch it a couple of times. After all my suspension modifications I have no more wheel hop. I also enjoy the sound of the Ford racing exhaust as well. :D

After installing the Steeda 3 point brace, BMR adjustable UCA and Evolution LCA's my wheel hop is gone. Now I need more HP and tires that can hook. Had the Shelby out yesterday after installing the above mods and I am quite satisfied. Unfortunately more HP is now in order, so looking forward to installing the 2.6 pulley and retune. Anyone have the Evolution pulley puller they are willing to rent? Please PM me.

Hey there Kids just an update on my wheel hop dilemma. I liked the idea of staying with genuine Ford parts as much as possible and the LCA’s from Steeda can be ordered with the Ford logo stamped into the side of it, that’s what I went with, for both the LCA and the Upper Adjustable third link.
If you are going to do this, I’d suggest downloading the Roush Instructions for each part as they really helped me when I did this by myself. The Steeda instructions need more detail.
For the LCA’s I did one side at a time, using a single jack stand on the body (lifting point just in front of rear tire) and lifting from the axle. They went straight forward, pretty easy stuff, with a few things to keep in mind, you need a torque wrench and you need to make sure that you DON’T have the parking brake on when you are trying to remove that brake cable from the caliber… :p
After I have put everything back together, I tested it, and to be honest 95 % of wheel hop was gone. The stock LCA’s truly are garbage (I kept mine though, just to keep the collector value up).
The Upper Third is a bit more complicated because of the access or lack of it. I did manage to get it done with only one bloody lip & scratch on my nose. Not Bad… the only advice I can give here is be patient and creative when trying to get a wrench on the bolts up in there. Also, in reference to where to put the jack stands, I put one on each side of the car on the "official" lifting surface and two on the axle, next to the LCA brackets. Between both sets of instructions, I got to work out alright.
With the addition of the third link I tested it again, and it just went….
That’s it, wheel hop gone. This in my opinion should be the first modification to this car. Enjoy, and I hope that helped.
On a side note, the set of black strips that I left on the road when testing this are still there.... :D

The Steeda PRO adjustable UCA is the one to use. The NVH is a tad more than the regular version, but this is the one to get. It will not necessarily rid your car of wheel hop but it will help.

The Steeda billet LCAs are not as robust as the BMRs (nor do I think they look as good). The BMRs are some sturdy mothers. They have a higher quality bushing and have grease nipples installed on both ends. I have the BMRs on my GT500 and between the two items, the hop went away (at least it did at these temps).

I have also changed my panhard rod to an adjustable and replaced the brace as well.

Take a look at Evolutions kit. It's pieced together, but the bulk of the stuff is Steeda. They used the BMR lowers for a reason.


bj

bj

Are you saying that your entire kit is evolutions ? I have been going back over every ones post on suspension trying to hash it all out, before making my decision. Are you still satisfied ? Has wheel hop been evident @ any time because of the elements(road surface or temp) since mods made ?

In advance, I appreciate your reply.

THANKS ILLEGAL

bj

Are you saying that your entire kit is evolutions ? I have been going back over every ones post on suspension trying to hash it all out, before making my decision. Are you still satisfied ? Has wheel hop been evident @ any time because of the elements(road surface or temp) since mods made ?

In advance, I appreciate your reply.

THANKS ILLEGAL

Evolutions kit is made up of various manufacutrers. When I purchased mine the three point brace and panhard bar and brace were steeda. The LCA Evolutions and the the UCA was BMR. Wish I could give you more input as to performance.:( Fred did give a better price in his package deal as opposed to buying the individual items from the manufacturers. I believe VNMOUS was not satisfied with the pro adjustable UCA as it was quite harsh with regard to NVH.

shlbysvt

Thanks for the low down. Evos kit seems to be the package. Which springs are being used the most, for that low down look, without to stiff of a spring rate ?

What about your trans ? Any resolution >

Thanks again
ILLEGAL

ILLEGAL

I have not researched any lowering kits as of yet and as far as the tranny goes I am awaiting the new generation clutch and tranny. Will let all know when it becomes available. I have been quite busy and if there were ever a summer to be without my Shelby I guess this was the one for it to happen. Still can't wait to hear the Bassani headers and exhaust.

ILLEGAL

Still can't wait to hear the Bassani headers and exhaust.


I love the sound of mine. I don't have the headers yet. but it is 3" no cats from the stock exhaust manifold back. And I picked up 27hp & 24tq at the wheels with that.
JJ